Bathing in the Sun!!

[Enjera]

 

[elizaann2]

Oh sweet baby

 

[Enjera]

Oh sweet baby

Thank you…
Not sure how old he is but he’s growing

 

[elizaann2]

Thank you…
Not sure how old he is but he’s growing

Its hard to tell with veileds because they grow so fast. I have one myself also only have a rough estimate of how old she actually is.

 

[Enjera]

Its hard to tell with veileds because they grow so fast. I have one myself also only have a rough estimate of how old she actually is.

That’s nice
One thing I do know is I cherish every moment…..it’s nice to see all that effort and struggle we tend to keep the chams happy and imitate their habitat and see it all pay off

 

[elizaann2]

V

That’s nice
One thing I do know is I cherish every moment…..it’s nice to see all that effort and struggle we tend to keep the chams happy and imitate their habitat and see it all pay off

Very wise. As our husbandry has gotten better we are seeing their lives last longer which is wonderful but still...cherish every moment...they are very special animals

 

[MissSkittles]

Thank you…
Not sure how old he is but he’s growing

If I had to guess his age, I’d say maybe about 6 months. He’s got his stripes but his casque isn’t fully grown yet. He’s still got a little bit to go and then he’ll be all WOW!

 

[Enjera]

If I had to guess his age, I’d say maybe about 6 months. He’s got his stripes but his casque isn’t fully grown yet. He’s still got a little bit to go and then he’ll be all WOW!

Thank you for the beautiful vital information…
His color scheme really is coming inn nicely and well as long as I can still keep him small and watch him grow that’s all I care about ….when I bought him he was as big as my finger….I’ve only had him for a solid month and a few days now I bought him sept 17….the picture below is maybe one of the first weeks I brought the little guy…this picture was when I first built his home…

 

[MissSkittles]

Thank you for the beautiful vital information…
His color scheme really is coming inn nicely and well as long as I can still keep him small and watch him grow that’s all I care about ….when I bought him he was as big as my finger….I’ve only had him for a solid month and a few days now I bought him sept 17….the picture below is maybe one of the first weeks I brought the little guy…this picture was when I first built his home…

Such a cutie! From that pic, he’s most likely younger…maybe about 4-5 months old now. If you’d like to do a full husbandry review just to make sure that everything is as perfect as possible for him, just say the word.

 

[Enjera]

Such a cutie! From that pic, he’s most likely younger…maybe about 4-5 months old now. If you’d like to do a full husbandry review just to make sure that everything is as perfect as possible for him, just say the word.

Thank you I highly appreciate it
Any type of perfection for my buddy is worth it…..no matter the cost

 

[MissSkittles]

Ok, here’s the questions for husbandry review.
Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[elizaann2]

Thank you for the beautiful vital information…
His color scheme really is coming inn nicely and well as long as I can still keep him small and watch him grow that’s all I care about ….when I bought him he was as big as my finger….I’ve only had him for a solid month and a few days now I bought him sept 17….the picture below is maybe one of the first weeks I brought the little guy…this picture was when I first built his home…

He is darling

 

[Enjera]

Ok, here’s the questions for husbandry review.
Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

Alrighty then…..
Here we go…
Type of chameleon is veiled chameleon also known as many other names..not sure about his age but on one of my previous posts Ive had someone maybe roughly estimate it to be between 4-6 months old….it is a male…and Rango has been in my care for a month and 12/13 days now…..since I’ve bought the little guy the most I’ve took em him out was maybe 3 times but he doesn’t really seem to like it so I haven’t ever took em him out since….he gets a bit defensive when he sees my hand or if I try to get him on order for me to handle him I have to get em by surprise so I’d rather not, I’ll let em do it at his own time….so I don’t handle him at all honestly I’ve tried but failed…I’m currently feeding him a mixture of bugs…At first I was doing Dubia roaches and meal worms thin meal worms not the super worms…..and now I have introduced him to crickets and man does he love em so recently it’s been a feeding of both mixed worms and crickets….Im at work mornings so my wife tends to feed em every now and then if she remembers, a few worms maybe around 4 just to see if he’s hungry and again sometimes they’re dusted with calcium and sometimes they’re not she’ll probably forget but if he doesn’t eat them all I roughly get home by 3 so that’s when I’ll take out whatever is left over get some more worms with the crickets and I’ll dust them lightly with repashy superfoods supercal NoD….my crickets get gut loaded with carrots tomatoes lettuce anything nutritious or at times I get some jelly pods from petco not sure of those are any good for the crickets or a good method to gut load the crickets…they types of brands I use are repashy superfoods, repti-calcium without D3 and Reptivite with D3
So far I’ve been using repashy superfoods NoD every time I feed and I use the Reptivite 2x’s a month I use it on the 2 & 25 of every month that’s with vitamin A…I’ve been tempted to buying bee pollen to sprinkle it on his food as well not sure if that’s any good? As of now my misting and water dripper have been my sources of watering for the moment, and yes I have seen my cham drink but it’s hard to catch him at times but when he uses the restroom that’s how I can truly determine whether he’s hydrated or not or if my water methods are working…..which brings me to his next point, his feces….He uses the restroom with no problem and honestly I clean at least a poop out every day and inspect it just to be sure…I’ll share a picture to get your opinion it is dry due to the lighting drying it out but when it first comes out and I catch it it’s moist and slimy looking when I squish it well it feels like poop lol. I purchased the little fella at petco so not much very history is told to me so I have no idea if he has parasites or how much that’ll cost me at the vet….
As for my tank it’s a full on screen mesh 16x16x30… As for my lighting I have a zoo med 65W daylight basking sunlight and a 18’ slimline tropical fixture 25 uvb T8 fluorescent bulb and soon I’ll switch the bulb to the reptisun T5 bulb when necessary and the schedule I have my lighting is 8am to 8pm daily….
The temperature ranges I’ve crated in my Rambo’s environment is
My humidity levels during the day hit for 30-50 allowing humidity to go down and take a bit of a high spike and allow it to go down again I don’t like to spray the environment all around so I spray the live plants that I have inside if I ever need to bring up its humidity but as I keep reading and learning more these chameleons tend to thrive from this humidity change and drop…..but during the night and that’s around 11 pm or 2 am my humidity may be at 75 or so, I turn on the fogger for a bit till it’s at a high 89-90 or higher if possible as the humidity level should be at its 80-100%…I also do have 3 sides of my enclosure topped off with shower liners in a way to help me keep humidity inn…..
I either mist or use fogger to maintain high humidity levels because during the day I tend to just keep the environment dry rather than always wet but I do tend to keep a very close eye on the percentage of the humidity in his enclosure in worse case scenario I do need to turn fogger on for a bit or mist a bit more…..I measure these percentages with an indoor hygrometer…I have two… one in the middle of the enclosure that allows me to get the max tempt for basking and humidity level and I have one for the bottom to give me read me an ambient level temperature of 75 or lower at times but this one is more on the cooler downer side of the enclosure by the live plants….i have 4 live plants inside the enclosure and it’s a money tree, pothos, spider plant, and a fiddle leaf tree if I’m not mistaken I’m not too sure about the 4 plant I have pictures lol…and my Cage is in the living room with a ceiling fan above so when it’s on I’m sure the circulation of the air is available to the Cham as well…..the living room window isn’t far away from my enclose either but it’s not much of a bother and it’s sitting on a 3 foot book shelf so my tank from top to floor is roughly 5 ft and 6 inches
But that’ll soon change for next week I’m ordering my 2x2x4 enclosure
Way bigger way better and more room to play with…..with this I’m planning on buying the repti rain mist system and set it on a timer along side with my lighting but within time you know….My neighbor helped me out by making a wider and taller book shelf to help me withstand the new enclosure so top to bottom will soon be a whole lot different….Hope this helps any other suggestions or questions pls feel free to ask….I took a picture of the vitamins and calcium but so you can see how far the cage is from the window…I hope this helps
And please disregard the lighting set up I use to have it like that now it’s different …..

 

[MissSkittles]

Ok. Give me a bit of time and I’ll go thru everything.

 

[MissSkittles]

I’ll definitely be splitting this into two parts.
Here we go…
Type of chameleon is veiled chameleon also known as many other names..not sure about his age but on one of my previous posts Ive had someone maybe roughly estimate it to be between 4-6 months old Yes…I gave my input on age already….it is a male…and Rango has been in my care for a month and 12/13 days now…..since I’ve bought the little guy the most I’ve took em him out was maybe 3 times but he doesn’t really seem to like it so I haven’t ever took em him out since….he gets a bit defensive when he sees my hand or if I try to get him on order for me to handle him I have to get em by surprise so I’d rather not, I’ll let em do it at his own time….so I don’t handle him at all honestly I’ve tried but failed…Veileds are notorious for their attitudes, but each is different. It’s important to build trust with him, even though he may never willingly come out to you. This is a great blog. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/ I’m currently feeding him a mixture of bugs…At first I was doing Dubia roaches and meal worms thin meal worms not the super worms…..and now I have introduced him to crickets and man does he love em so recently it’s been a feeding of both mixed worms and crickets….Im at work mornings so my wife tends to feed em every now and then if she remembers, a few worms maybe around 4 just to see if he’s hungry and again sometimes they’re dusted with calcium and sometimes they’re not she’ll probably forget but if he doesn’t eat them all I roughly get home by 3 so that’s when I’ll take out whatever is left over get some more worms with the crickets and I’ll dust them lightly with repashy superfoods supercal NoD….my crickets get gut loaded with carrots tomatoes lettuce anything nutritious or at times I get some jelly pods from petco not sure of those are any good for the crickets or a good method to gut load the crickets…they types of brands I use are repashy superfoods, repti-calcium without D3 and Reptivite with D3 For feeders, you want to give a variety. You also want to keep your feeders well fed and healthy so that they’ll be more nutritious. The cubes and jelly pots I’m afraid are not good for more than hydrating your bugs…it’s like jello. Switch out the lettuce for greens and fresh produce is great to feed them. There are some quality bug foods out there, but usually they aren’t available at Petco. I like Repashy Bug Burger. There is also Mazuri, Cricket Crack and a couple of others. I’m attaching some graphics on feeders and ‘gut loading’. Not sure, but I think most of us just keep our bugs well fed rather than do the true gut loading. Btw, grasshoppers are available here https://feedmychameleon.com/ It is important to feed him around the same time of day, and preferably in the morning so that he’ll have time to bask and digest. He’s old enough to be getting fed just once a day, and young enough that he should be getting at least 15+ feeders daily. He’s a growing boy, and veileds grow fast. It’s also very important that his feeders be dusted. He needs the supplements. You may want to look into using a feeding station like the shooting gallery https://www.rainbowmealworms.net/shooting-gallery-chameleon-feeder-1/ You can fill it in the morning before you leave for work and except for bsfl and the rare skilled cricket, the bugs can’t escape.
So far I’ve been using repashy superfoods NoD every time I feed and I use the Reptivite 2x’s a month Perfect! I use it on the 2 & 25 of every month that’s with vitamin A…Yes, it’s preformed vitamin A which is fat soluble and I believe is known that chameleons can utilize it. The other type is proformed, water soluble and not known if chams can utilize it in part or whole. The only concern with fat soluble vitamins, like A and D3 is that they are cleared from the body slowly and can easily build up to toxic levels if given incorrectly. I’ve been tempted to buying bee pollen to sprinkle it on his food as well not sure if that’s any good? Bee pollen is super healthy, but in some veiled chams it has caused edema. It might be better to once in a while maybe give a light sprinkle over the bugs food. I mix a pinch in with my Bug Burger. As of now my misting and water dripper have been my sources of watering for the momentHow often and for how long for each? , and yes I have seen my cham drink but it’s hard to catch him at times You’re fortunate to see him drink at all. Many chams are secretive about drinking. but when he uses the restroom that’s how I can truly determine whether he’s hydrated or not or if my water methods are working Yes, you want to go by the color of the urate. All white or with a bit of yellow or light orange at one end is good. If he hasn’t pooped for a few days, it may be darker. All dark orange is dehydrated and not good…..which brings me to his next point, his feces….He uses the restroom with no problem and honestly I clean at least a poop out every day and inspect it just to be sure…I’ll share a picture to get your opinion it is dry due to the lighting drying it out but when it first comes out and I catch it it’s moist and slimy looking when I squish it well it feels like poop lol. I purchased the little fella at petco so not much very history is told to me so I have no idea if he has parasites or how much that’ll cost me at the vet….Definitely a parasite check is a good idea. Vet costs vary widely. I’m in central Florida and exotics vets have ranged at a pretty reasonable $50-70 for the office visit and fecals run $40-50. It’s when you have x rays and blood work that the price gets up there. This is a good place to stop this half. More to come.

 

[Enjera]

I’ll definitely be splitting this into two parts.
Here we go…
Type of chameleon is veiled chameleon also known as many other names..not sure about his age but on one of my previous posts Ive had someone maybe roughly estimate it to be between 4-6 months old Yes…I gave my input on age already….it is a male…and Rango has been in my care for a month and 12/13 days now…..since I’ve bought the little guy the most I’ve took em him out was maybe 3 times but he doesn’t really seem to like it so I haven’t ever took em him out since….he gets a bit defensive when he sees my hand or if I try to get him on order for me to handle him I have to get em by surprise so I’d rather not, I’ll let em do it at his own time….so I don’t handle him at all honestly I’ve tried but failed…Veileds are notorious for their attitudes, but each is different. It’s important to build trust with him, even though he may never willingly come out to you. This is a great blog. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/ I’m currently feeding him a mixture of bugs…At first I was doing Dubia roaches and meal worms thin meal worms not the super worms…..and now I have introduced him to crickets and man does he love em so recently it’s been a feeding of both mixed worms and crickets….Im at work mornings so my wife tends to feed em every now and then if she remembers, a few worms maybe around 4 just to see if he’s hungry and again sometimes they’re dusted with calcium and sometimes they’re not she’ll probably forget but if he doesn’t eat them all I roughly get home by 3 so that’s when I’ll take out whatever is left over get some more worms with the crickets and I’ll dust them lightly with repashy superfoods supercal NoD….my crickets get gut loaded with carrots tomatoes lettuce anything nutritious or at times I get some jelly pods from petco not sure of those are any good for the crickets or a good method to gut load the crickets…they types of brands I use are repashy superfoods, repti-calcium without D3 and Reptivite with D3 For feeders, you want to give a variety. You also want to keep your feeders well fed and healthy so that they’ll be more nutritious. The cubes and jelly pots I’m afraid are not good for more than hydrating your bugs…it’s like jello. Switch out the lettuce for greens and fresh produce is great to feed them. There are some quality bug foods out there, but usually they aren’t available at Petco. I like Repashy Bug Burger. There is also Mazuri, Cricket Crack and a couple of others. I’m attaching some graphics on feeders and ‘gut loading’. Not sure, but I think most of us just keep our bugs well fed rather than do the true gut loading. Btw, grasshoppers are available here https://feedmychameleon.com/ It is important to feed him around the same time of day, and preferably in the morning so that he’ll have time to bask and digest. He’s old enough to be getting fed just once a day, and young enough that he should be getting at least 15+ feeders daily. He’s a growing boy, and veileds grow fast. It’s also very important that his feeders be dusted. He needs the supplements. You may want to look into using a feeding station like the shooting gallery https://www.rainbowmealworms.net/shooting-gallery-chameleon-feeder-1/ You can fill it in the morning before you leave for work and except for bsfl and the rare skilled cricket, the bugs can’t escape.
So far I’ve been using repashy superfoods NoD every time I feed and I use the Reptivite 2x’s a month Perfect! I use it on the 2 & 25 of every month that’s with vitamin A…Yes, it’s preformed vitamin A which is fat soluble and I believe is known that chameleons can utilize it. The other type is proformed, water soluble and not known if chams can utilize it in part or whole. The only concern with fat soluble vitamins, like A and D3 is that they are cleared from the body slowly and can easily build up to toxic levels if given incorrectly. I’ve been tempted to buying bee pollen to sprinkle it on his food as well not sure if that’s any good? Bee pollen is super healthy, but in some veiled chams it has caused edema. It might be better to once in a while maybe give a light sprinkle over the bugs food. I mix a pinch in with my Bug Burger. As of now my misting and water dripper have been my sources of watering for the momentHow often and for how long for each? , and yes I have seen my cham drink but it’s hard to catch him at times You’re fortunate to see him drink at all. Many chams are secretive about drinking. but when he uses the restroom that’s how I can truly determine whether he’s hydrated or not or if my water methods are working Yes, you want to go by the color of the urate. All white or with a bit of yellow or light orange at one end is good. If he hasn’t pooped for a few days, it may be darker. All dark orange is dehydrated and not good…..which brings me to his next point, his feces….He uses the restroom with no problem and honestly I clean at least a poop out every day and inspect it just to be sure…I’ll share a picture to get your opinion it is dry due to the lighting drying it out but when it first comes out and I catch it it’s moist and slimy looking when I squish it well it feels like poop lol. I purchased the little fella at petco so not much very history is told to me so I have no idea if he has parasites or how much that’ll cost me at the vet….Definitely a parasite check is a good idea. Vet costs vary widely. I’m in central Florida and exotics vets have ranged at a pretty reasonable $50-70 for the office visit and fecals run $40-50. It’s when you have x rays and blood work that the price gets up there. This is a good place to stop this half. More to come.

View attachment 345936View attachment 345937

Thank you thank you thank you

This information is more than great
The dripper I usually have it dripping non stop over my live plants and when I mist I usually do it till my hand begins to cramp or roughly close to a minute since my enclosure isn’t as bigg

I mist 15 min after and before my lights come on

 

[MissSkittles]

As for my tank it’s a full on screen mesh 16x16x30 You already know this is too small and are correcting it. … As for my lighting I have a zoo med 65W daylight basking sunlight and a 18’ slimline tropical fixture 25 uvb T8 fluorescent bulb Is this the one that has plastic over where the bulb sits? If so, remove the plastic. Uvb can’t penetrate it. and soon I’ll switch the bulb to the reptisun T5 bulb when necessary You can use it now. You’ll be wanting the 5.0 or 6% uvb bulb. The distance from the uvb light to the basking branch needs to be 8-9” which will give the perfect uvb level. You definitely need to elevate your lights above the screen top. Little ones love to play spider-cham and walk upside down along the top. It’s very easy for them to get burned. I use dollar store wire baskets to raise my light just a few inches and while not pretty, it works great. and the schedule I have my lighting is 8am to 8pm daily….Perfect
The temperature ranges I’ve crated in my Rambo’s environment is yes…??? Hopefully you were going to say his basking temp is around 78-80, which is perfect for a little guy (and the ladies). When he grows up, his basking temp can go up to 85. At night, ideally you have a decent temp drop down into the 60’s. If it isn’t below at least 68-70, you don’t want to boost night time humidity. Heat plus high humidity increases risks for respiratory infections.
My humidity levels during the day hit for 30-50 Perfect! This is the ideal daytime range for veileds. allowing humidity to go down and take a bit of a high spike and allow it to go down again I don’t like to spray the environment all around so I spray the live plants that I have inside if I ever need to bring up its humidity but as I keep reading and learning more these chameleons tend to thrive from this humidity change and drop…..but during the night and that’s around 11 pm or 2 am my humidity may be at 75 or so, I turn on the fogger for a bit till it’s at a high 89-90 or higher if possible as the humidity level should be at its 80-100%…I also do have 3 sides of my enclosure topped off with shower liners in a way to help me keep humidity inn….. It looks like you have the lower service door covered too. Try to leave that uncovered for better ventilation.
I either mist or use fogger to maintain high humidity levels because during the day I tend to just keep the environment dry rather than always wet but I do tend to keep a very close eye on the percentage of the humidity in his enclosure in worse case scenario I do need to turn fogger on for a bit or mist a bit more Never fog during the day - respiratory infection risk.…..I measure these percentages with an indoor hygrometer…I have two… one in the middle of the enclosure that allows me to get the max tempt for basking and humidity level and I have one for the bottom to give me read me an ambient level temperature of 75 or lower at times but this one is more on the cooler downer side of the enclosure by the live plants….i have 4 live plants inside the enclosure and it’s a money tree, pothos, spider plant, and a fiddle leaf tree if I’m not mistaken I’m not too sure about the 4 plant I have pictures I do also see some fake plants. Please remove them. Veileds nibble their plants and it only takes one bite of a fake leaf to cause a potentially life threatening bowel obstruction. I like to attach my fake plants to the door of my enclosure to give my chams a sense of more privacy. lol…and my Cage is in the living room with a ceiling fan above Is the fan directly above the cham? Is it on high or low? Just make sure that it isn’t messing with basking temps. so when it’s on I’m sure the circulation of the air is available to the Cham as well…..the living room window isn’t far away from my enclose either but it’s not much of a bother and it’s sitting on a 3 foot book shelf so my tank from top to floor is roughly 5 ft and 6 inches Great! Height is safety for chams.
But that’ll soon change for next week I’m ordering my 2x2x4 enclosure Excellent
Way bigger way better and more room to play with…..with this I’m planning on buying the repti rain mist system and set it on a timer Mist King is a much better system, but is much more expensive. If you are particularly handy, You could search the forum for instructions on making your own. The issue with ReptiRain is the timer isn’t very flexible and doesn’t have 2 minute durations and lacks the ability to set specific times. Maybe if you hook it up to a smart plug? along side with my lighting but within time you know….My neighbor helped me out by making a wider and taller book shelf to help me withstand the new enclosure so top to bottom will soon be a whole lot different….Hope this helps any other suggestions or questions pls feel free to ask….I took a picture of the vitamins and calcium but so you can see how far the cage is from the window Nice distance. Not too close where heat will come in and effect him but looks close enough that he might have a bit of a view. …I hope this helps
And please disregard the lighting set up I use to have it like that now it’s different …..
I think we covered it all. You’ve got a great start already for your little cutie. Keep asking questions and sharing your progress and of course, pics of Rango.

 

[MissSkittles]

Thank you thank you thank you

This information is more than great
The dropper I usually have it dripping non stop over my live plants and when I mist I usually do it till my hand begins to cramp or roughly close to a minute since my enclosure isn’t as bigg

I mist 15 min after and before my lights come on

It’s best to give the enclosure the ability to dry out during the day. Chameleons don’t need a constant access to water like some other animals. You could run the dripper for just 15-20 minutes and that would be more than enough.

 

[Beman]

18’ slimline tropical fixture 25 uvb T8 fluorescent bulb and soon I’ll switch the bulb to the reptisun T5 bulb when necessary

One thing to add... You want to go ahead and upgrade your UVB to a T5HO fixture and either a 5.0 or 6% bulb strength. I would go ahead and get the 24 inch fixture because you really want to go ahead and get your cage size upgraded now.

The T8 your using really is not giving him what he needs at the distances it is being used. These have a low uvb output anyways. Normally your looking for a max 5 inch distance to the branch with these. Your using one of the offbrand versions so I can not give you real info on how close the branch needs to be for him. I have only ever tested the T8 bulbs made by reptisun.

When you place the new UVB you want it across the middle of the cage and at a distance of 8-9 inches from where it sits on the screen to the closest branches below it.

 

[Enjera]

One thing to add... You want to go ahead and upgrade your UVB to a T5HO fixture and either a 5.0 or 6% bulb strength. I would go ahead and get the 24 inch fixture because you really want to go ahead and get your cage size upgraded now.

The T8 your using really is not giving him what he needs at the distances it is being used. These have a low uvb output anyways. Normally your looking for a max 5 inch distance to the branch with these. Your using one of the offbrand versions so I can not give you real info on how close the branch needs to be for him. I have only ever tested the T8 bulbs made by reptisun.

When you place the new UVB you want it across the middle of the cage and at a distance of 8-9 inches from where it sits on the screen to the closest branches below it.

You don’t mind sharing a picture to show an example of the distance the uvb should be…