Beginner needing help

I

I'm a noob

New Member
Hi people of this awesome forum, I have kept reef tanks and want to do a chameleon, I am only 12 but I have a 40 gallon reef and have kept crested geckos, I'm thinking veiled and doing a diy 2x2x4 tank, live tall plants, with a auto mister, I think male because they seem easier, I am fine with not handling the chameleon, and am fine with gutloadibg crickets, but, I'm worried when u do lighting he's the Basking area isn't gonna be sufficient, and I have one other question, I live in california, outside of sac, should I do a 2/4 glass or full screen, or full glass, idk, any replies help! Thanks!
 
Hi and welcome! So very glad to have you here and asking questions. 🤗 Looks like you’ve done a bit of research already, which is so very refreshing.
Yes, a 2x2x4’ enclosure is a very good size for a male veiled. I’m not at all familiar with your climate so can’t advise you on whether glass would be better. However, I am of the opinion that screen is best for new keepers. Ideal daytime humidity for a veiled is between 30-50%, which is dryer than you’d think. If you need to boost humidity, you can always cover the sides. There are some great hybrids too with screen and pvc. Check out https://dragonstrand.com/ for some beautiful and quality enclosures. They may not be in your budget, in which case I like https://www.diycages.com/ . Add some Dragon Strand dragon ledges and you can create an amazing enclosure. They make it very easy to hang branches, vines and plants so you can get your basking area within the desired distance from your lights (usually about 8-9”). For uvb you’ll need a linear T5 with a 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. This is a nice one. https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-prot5-uvb-kit.html
Mist King or CliMist are the preferred misting systems...a bit more expensive than units like ReptiRain, but well worth it.
Crickets are a good staple feeder, but variety is best. I’ll attach the feeder and gutload sheets for you.
You’ll want live plants which are safe. No fake ones...veileds eat their plants and can die from eating a fake one.
Yes, males are a bit easier than females in that you don’t have the concerns of egg laying. While veileds do tend to have attitude, you should establish some trust and get comfortable handling your cham. Some keepers handle theirs daily to prevent them from becoming cage-aggressive.
It is important to get your cham from a reputable breeder and make sure it is at least 3 months old. Any younger than that tends to be too fragile and higher chance of having a bad experience.
I think I’ve answered all of your questions and then some. Keep asking them as you need. :) Some great resources with accurate and up to date information: https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/ Really explore all the site has...is a wealth of knowledge.
https://caskabove.com/ Make sure to check out Neptune the chameleon on YouTube as well.
Again, glad you’re here. :)

F3CE59D9-A3B5-48C9-8768-0A0FB002A280.jpeg
0CB49B0A-7860-4E35-9E74-9351FE091CB6.jpeg
 
janjan20 said:
Welcome! All great info above!

Not sure if anyone else mentioned it but it’s a really good idea to have everything set up and husbandry dialed in before getting one. It will make an easier transition for your new addition if you have everything all set in place and don’t have to mess with it.
Click to expand...
Agreed. I had my set up for a month probably before getting my first cham. You're always looking for something to add or change lol plus that way you know your temps and humidity is consistent
 
Welcome to the forums Noob! (I've always wanted to say that.) :) Glad you're doing the appropriate research. Becoming a Chameleon owner is a pretty awesome experience plus you'll be joining an elite group of cool people. You're going to gain a lot of wisdom and knowledge here. Just one request...... DON"T name your new Chameleon Pascal or Rango! That's all we ask(actually, that's all I ask) :LOL: So anyway, enjoy your time here.
 
MissSkittles said:
Hi and welcome! So very glad to have you here and asking questions. 🤗 Looks like you’ve done a bit of research already, which is so very refreshing.
Yes, a 2x2x4’ enclosure is a very good size for a male veiled. I’m not at all familiar with your climate so can’t advise you on whether glass would be better. However, I am of the opinion that screen is best for new keepers. Ideal daytime humidity for a veiled is between 30-50%, which is dryer than you’d think. If you need to boost humidity, you can always cover the sides. There are some great hybrids too with screen and pvc. Check out https://dragonstrand.com/ for some beautiful and quality enclosures. They may not be in your budget, in which case I like https://www.diycages.com/ . Add some Dragon Strand dragon ledges and you can create an amazing enclosure. They make it very easy to hang branches, vines and plants so you can get your basking area within the desired distance from your lights (usually about 8-9”). For uvb you’ll need a linear T5 with a 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. This is a nice one. https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-prot5-uvb-kit.html
Mist King or CliMist are the preferred misting systems...a bit more expensive than units like ReptiRain, but well worth it.
Crickets are a good staple feeder, but variety is best. I’ll attach the feeder and gutload sheets for you.
You’ll want live plants which are safe. No fake ones...veileds eat their plants and can die from eating a fake one.
Yes, males are a bit easier than females in that you don’t have the concerns of egg laying. While veileds do tend to have attitude, you should establish some trust and get comfortable handling your cham. Some keepers handle theirs daily to prevent them from becoming cage-aggressive.
It is important to get your cham from a reputable breeder and make sure it is at least 3 months old. Any younger than that tends to be too fragile and higher chance of having a bad experience.
I think I’ve answered all of your questions and then some. Keep asking them as you need. :) Some great resources with accurate and up to date information: https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/ Really explore all the site has...is a wealth of knowledge.
https://caskabove.com/ Make sure to check out Neptune the chameleon on YouTube as well.
Again, glad you’re here. :)

View attachment 292444View attachment 292445
Click to expand...
Awesome! Tga ks for the help, added this to my notes paper!
 
Oh, btw, what lighting fixture should I get for uvb? And would a dripper system will twice daily misting be okay?
Non covid schooling is from 820-315, so mist when I wake up, and mist in the evening?
 
I'm a noob said:
Oh, btw, what lighting fixture should I get for uvb? And would a dripper system will twice daily misting be okay?
Non covid schooling is from 820-315, so mist when I wake up, and mist in the evening?
Click to expand...
Good on you for getting everything ready to go before you get him!

Lights a HO T5 5/6% UVB Linear fixture is recommended. I got mine on LLCreptile. Mine is 36 inches long, but that was the only option for me when I was trying to get one. A 24 inch would work well too.

You need a heat lamp too and while a reptile heat lamp would work you can also use a non LED, eco smart dimmable light bulb. Start at 60W and work your way up to get the proper temperature. Make sure your basking branch is 6-8 inches below this light so you guy will not get burned
 
Amberbluefrog said:
Good on you for getting everything ready to go before you get him!

Lights a HO T5 5/6% UVB Linear fixture is recommended. I got mine on LLCreptile. Mine is 36 inches long, but that was the only option for me when I was trying to get one. A 24 inch would work well too.

You need a heat lamp too and while a reptile heat lamp would work you can also use a non LED, eco smart dimmable light bulb. Start at 60W and work your way up to get the proper temperature. Make sure your basking branch is 6-8 inches below this light so you guy will not get burned
Click to expand...
I will make a note about the branch distance, I have a few headlamps as my dad has a Indonesian ground boa, his girlfriend a something something ball python, and a day gecko! I found a set that is a fixture with a 5% to 6% uvb light for $60, is that a good deal?
 
Amberbluefrog said:
Good on you for getting everything ready to go before you get him!

Lights a HO T5 5/6% UVB Linear fixture is recommended. I got mine on LLCreptile. Mine is 36 inches long, but that was the only option for me when I was trying to get one. A 24 inch would work well too.

You need a heat lamp too and while a reptile heat lamp would work you can also use a non LED, eco smart dimmable light bulb. Start at 60W and work your way up to get the proper temperature. Make sure your basking branch is 6-8 inches below this light so you guy will not get burned
Click to expand...
I'll look through this! My current thought was making my floor at a slant, putting a whole, covered by mesh so feeders don't escape,then running a tube to a five gallon bucket or container under my stand
 
I'm a noob said:
Oh, btw, what lighting fixture should I get for uvb? And would a dripper system will twice daily misting be okay?
Non covid schooling is from 820-315, so mist when I wake up, and mist in the evening?
Click to expand...
Since you’re building your own cage, getting a Solarmeter 6.5 is a must (even if you were buying a name brand cage)! You’ll need a T5 High Output linear light fixture (either the length of, or a foot longer than, what the length of the cage will be) with either an Arcadia 6% linear UVB bulb or Zoo Med 5.0 linear UVB bulb of the matching size (2” shorter than the length of the fixture). You’ll replace the UVB bulbs when the UVI readings are cut in half. Your basking branch will be put where it is the UVI level of 3 from the top of the cage (in a name brand cage, the UVB bulb would 8-9” away from the basking branch). Misting at least 2-5+ minutes long only in the morning and at night, when the cage is cooler, for your daytime mistings is recommended, if the cage humidity allows it. Using a cool-mist fogger at night (all components cleaned thoroughly and often) is a great tool for natural hydration! Your basking (heat) bulb actually needs to be a minimum of 7” away from the casque/top of your chameleon‘s back when he’s on his basking branch, but preferably 8-9” away or more. You’ll want to mount your heat bulb and dome above the cage and at an angle for a better thermogradient. Here is a great post of this from @Beman :
Post in thread 'Age ?'
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/age.181096/post-1645750

Edit: if you get a fogger, and it has tubes, place the output tube at the top of the cage so the fog rolls down.
 
Last edited:
Welcome to the forum!

So glad that you are researching things before getting a chameleon...and that you are finding good places to get that info from...like Chameleon Academy, Neptune the chameleon and of course, this forum.

One thing I don't think was mentioned above was supplements... It's important to keep the nutrients in a chameleons diet balanced to prevent MBD and other he lath issues from happening.
Gutloading can go a long way to helping with this but it seems like so far we can not eliminate the supplementing completely. We don't/can't feed the chameleon's the same insects they eat in the wild...so we have to try to balance the diet by other means...supplementing and feeding/gut loading the insects properly.

There are many ways to do the supplementing.. so his is not the only way...but I've used it for over 25 years and my chameleons do well. I dust the insects just before feeding them to the chameleon with a phos free calcium powder lightly at all feedings but one a week. For that one feeding per week, I alternate between a phos free calcium/D3 powder dusted lightly and a vitamin powder with a prEformed (retinol) source of vitamin A dusted lightly.

Another thing...be careful how you position your basking light...you don't want the chameleon to be able to get close enough that it can burn him...so hold your hand up tight against the screen lid where the light is and if you can't hold your hand there comfortably, then it's going to burn him and needs to be adjusted.

You've been given lots of good advice already in this thread!
Best of luck whi your new adventure!
 
MissSkittles said:
Hi and welcome! So very glad to have you here and asking questions. 🤗 Looks like you’ve done a bit of research already, which is so very refreshing.
Yes, a 2x2x4’ enclosure is a very good size for a male veiled. I’m not at all familiar with your climate so can’t advise you on whether glass would be better. However, I am of the opinion that screen is best for new keepers. Ideal daytime humidity for a veiled is between 30-50%, which is dryer than you’d think. If you need to boost humidity, you can always cover the sides. There are some great hybrids too with screen and pvc. Check out https://dragonstrand.com/ for some beautiful and quality enclosures. They may not be in your budget, in which case I like https://www.diycages.com/ . Add some Dragon Strand dragon ledges and you can create an amazing enclosure. They make it very easy to hang branches, vines and plants so you can get your basking area within the desired distance from your lights (usually about 8-9”). For uvb you’ll need a linear T5 with a 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. This is a nice one. https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-prot5-uvb-kit.html
Mist King or CliMist are the preferred misting systems...a bit more expensive than units like ReptiRain, but well worth it.
Crickets are a good staple feeder, but variety is best. I’ll attach the feeder and gutload sheets for you.
You’ll want live plants which are safe. No fake ones...veileds eat their plants and can die from eating a fake one.
Yes, males are a bit easier than females in that you don’t have the concerns of egg laying. While veileds do tend to have attitude, you should establish some trust and get comfortable handling your cham. Some keepers handle theirs daily to prevent them from becoming cage-aggressive.
It is important to get your cham from a reputable breeder and make sure it is at least 3 months old. Any younger than that tends to be too fragile and higher chance of having a bad experience.
I think I’ve answered all of your questions and then some. Keep asking them as you need. :) Some great resources with accurate and up to date information: https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/ Really explore all the site has...is a wealth of knowledge.
https://caskabove.com/ Make sure to check out Neptune the chameleon on YouTube as well.
Again, glad you’re here. :)

View attachment 292444View attachment 292445
Click to expand...
Beware of watching other people on YouTube besides Neptune the chameleon. there are some seriously misguided vids on there
 
I'm a noob said:
I will make a note about the branch distance, I have a few headlamps as my dad has a Indonesian ground boa, his girlfriend a something something ball python, and a day gecko! I found a set that is a fixture with a 5% to 6% uvb light for $60, is that a good deal?
Click to expand...

That’s a decent price IMO, I bought this one ($42 after shipping) http://www.lllreptile.com/products/36314-t5-ho-single-bulb-light-strip--36

But it did not come with the light, so I got that online in bulk (about $16 a bulb)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Mold Concerns with Screen Cages for Chameleons - Advice Needed
Replies
13
Views
399
Beman
Beman
M
New adoption for chameleon
Replies
12
Views
511
mega loves worm
M
K
First time chameleon mom! I need your help….
Replies
7
Views
397
elizaann2
elizaann2
lurker9090
how to get/make Large Glass enclosure for panther
Replies
4
Views
264
lurker9090
lurker9090
Umbra
Beginner seeking advice
Replies
9
Views
515
Umbra
Umbra
Back
Top Bottom