Amber'sChams
New Member
I just recently lost my panther chameleon to an infection that he couldn’t kick. I’m worried that he and my other chameleon who passed a couple of years ago from an infection had weak immune systems due to a husbandry issue. I can’t stop thinking about this and don’t want to get another chameleon until I know I have corrected anything that could have caused this. So here is my complete routine and setup. Any advice would be appreciated. I absolutely love reptiles (especially chameleons) and I want to make sure they are thriving in my care.
- Reptibreeze 24x24x48 inches
- 2 zoo med reptisun terrarium hoods (1 holding a fluorescent reptisun 10.0 UVB T5 HO bulb and the other holding a fluorescent 24w T5 HO grow light for the plants)
- Flukers sun dome lamp with a 60w zoomed daylight blue reptile bulb for heat
- Lights are on a timer and stay on from 8 AM to 8 PM
- Mistking goes off at 8:10 AM for 10 minutes, 10 AM for 5 minutes, 12 PM for 10 minutes, 2 PM for 5 minutes, 4 PM for 10 minutes, 6 PM for 5 minutes, and 7:30 PM for 10 minutes. I used tap water which I will not be doing in the future. I will be using purified from here on out.
- I have included a picture to show the branches and vines I had included inside the enclosure
- I used a DIY feeder cup made out of a Sunny D bottle and I glued mesh in it for crickets to crawl (Not in picture. I threw it away a few days ago. It was getting old.)
- I have 5 live plants I switch throughout the year in the enclosure. A hibiscus, a spider plant, a begonia, a pothos, and a wandering Jew.
- The potting mix for these plants is a mixture of coconut fiber and play sand (did lots of research on this due to them getting overwatered). I have river rocks covering the top of the potting mix.
- There is nothing on the floor of the enclosure. This makes it easier to clean and I rarely ever see them at the bottom.
- Feeders were mainly crickets as a staple, superworms, and hornworms. They occasionally got silkworms as well.
- I would gut load the cricket and superworms with carrots or fluker’s orange cubes. The crickets also had trays of fluker’s high calcium cricket diet and cricket quencher. I’m considering replacing these with a Repashy superload as well as sprinkling some bee pollen into the gut load. Any thoughts?
- All insects were dusted with rep-cal calcium. On the 1st and 15th of the month I would switch the calcium out with the rep-cal calcium with Vit. D3. On the 2nd and 16th I would switch the calcium out with rep-cal herptivite. (I did recently find out that the rep-cal D3 and herptivite supplements aren’t recommended so I will be switching those out with just the one Repashy calcium plus LoD 3).
- Deep cleaning was an absolute pain so I only did it once every 3 months (I know this should have happened more often). However, I did spot clean daily.