Cage Rack

I expected to hear corn-cob and vita-lites were still in good shape too. Those are old! But nice ones.

I never used either of those or any other UV lights for that matter. Except for a fixture with Arcadia bulb/6500K combo that Todd @ www.lightyourreptiles.com sent me last year for evaluation. Nice light and fixture. Still undecided if it is worth upgrading all of my bulbs/fixtures. I'm a cost vs. benefit type of guy.
 
Light question

Mike,

You have had the t5ho "light your reptile" fixture for awhile now. Would you say it is worth the extra money? Have you noticed any positive discernible difference in your animals that live under it? I have always used t8 NO shop lights with 6500K bulbs, sporadic use of UV lighting. Right now I am deciding if it is worth the money to upgrade to the arcadia t5 HO fixtures. Thank you in advance and also for the link to the organic vitamin powder.

Frank
 
Mike,

You have had the t5ho "light your reptile" fixture for awhile now. Would you say it is worth the extra money? Have you noticed any positive discernible difference in your animals that live under it?

I've gone out of my way not to comment on this subject because Todd @ LYR is really knowledgeable and helpful, and does this community a great service. I do not want to undermine that in any way.

It is a very nice fixture with good light output and rendering. If I had just a few enclosures I would invest in them. The colors really pop under that LYR fixture.

That being said, with the number of enclosures I have to light and the dollar amount involved to switch over, I had to compromise. I did upgrade to T5HO, but still am not using any UVB lighting for my montanes.

All the success I am having currently has been without any UVB lighting. But I love my new T5HO's with 6500k bulbs.
 
They are four strategies to properly aid in chameleon calcium absorption.
No d3, natural sunlight only
No d3, uvb bulb replaced when a meter recommend
Monthly d3, uvb bulbs replaced every 6 months.
D3 administered daily in the correct amount, no uvb bulb

I've tried the first three but have never had the guts to try the forth. I've been interested since I read about this meathod on the gecko unlimited forum. Theysaid that its critical to have just the right amount, not too much and not too little. I find it exciting that you've had success with this meathod.

How do you administer the right amount of D3 without overdosing? I can't even imagine how to regulate less than a pinch?

Sorry to take the focus away from the amazing cage setup. Your unconventional setups have me intrigued.



I never have, just everyone else lol. I use natural supplements with a low level of D3 on a daily basis. Never had a problem, even with fast growing species. With my current breeding program, they are all montane, so mostly shade dwelling anyway. Sticking with what works for me. T5 HO will be the next upgrade.
 
They are four strategies to properly aid in chameleon calcium absorption.
No d3, natural sunlight only
No d3, uvb bulb replaced when a meter recommend
Monthly d3, uvb bulbs replaced every 6 months.
D3 administered daily in the correct amount, no uvb bulb

I've tried the first three but have never had the guts to try the forth. I've been interested since I read about this meathod on the gecko unlimited forum. Theysaid that its critical to have just the right amount, not too much and not too little. I find it exciting that you've had success with this meathod.

How do you administer the right amount of D3 without overdosing? I can't even imagine how to regulate less than a pinch?

Sorry to take the focus away from the amazing cage setup. Your unconventional setups have me intrigued.

There is a fifth way. UV bulbs with D3 added more than once a month. I typically use Reptisun T8 bulbs and my animals get Repashy Calcium Plus with almost every feeding. I have raised from hatchling and then bred panther chameleons this way as well as a few other species of reptiles. I believe the Kammers do the exact same thing with their chameleons. I have since switched to the Repashy Calcium Plus LoD since it came out. A light coating is all that I use. I think that many people over-worry about overdosing vitamins. Many more captive reptiles seem to suffer from hypovitaminosis not hypervitaminosis . Not saying it's the right way but it works for me.
 
Honestly back in the 90's i never replaced my vita-lites for years and years. My calcium at the time was sticky tongue indoor formula (very low dose d3). Every meal was lightly dusted. I never had a case of MBD, vet always said the critters were healthy, and i always got 6+ years out of the male chams and 7-8 years out of the beardies. Only had one beardy make it to 13 years, and it started balding and losing color.

Still now that i got a light meter and on the LYR band wagon, its lookin like i might get 3 years+ out of the bulbs before they even get down to fresh out of the box repitsun 5.0 levels.
 
How do you administer the right amount of D3 without overdosing? I can't even imagine how to regulate less than a pinch?

Believe it or not a "pinch" of pure D3 would kill a human.:eek: I mill my own supplements and all ingredients are weighed on a NIST calibrated Sartorius digital laboratory scale with resolution to .01 gram.

Here's a photo of what my milling setup looks like:

87286d1381197762-comparative-lighting-study-powder.jpg
 
Believe it or not a "pinch" of pure D3 would kill a human.:eek: I mill my own supplements and all ingredients are weighed on a NIST calibrated Sartorius digital laboratory scale with resolution to .01 gram.

Here's a photo of what my milling setup looks like:

87286d1381197762-comparative-lighting-study-powder.jpg

Wow! That is impressive. You should sell (to me) your supplement. ;)
 
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