can any help

Colleen

New Member
I have a female werner who up until yesterday was fine, she now is rubbing her eyes and keeping them closed, any suggestions . They look a little swollen
 
Okie dokie... I'll just say it before anyone else. Can you just give us the rundown of your setup.

Cage type, size, temperature, humidity
Amount of food, water, and supplementation she gets on a daily basis
her age and how long you have had her
her lighting (be very specific) this is the main question to answer.

and if you could...post some pictures.
I don't know anything really about werner's but I know this will help to get you questions answered
 
my set up

cage size 36h x28w x 20d
lights 5.0uvb compact
100watt basking
misting 3-4 times a day
feeding crickets dusted with reptical daily
vitamin once a week
lights on at 6:30 am and off at 8:30 pm
Male and female in same cage. I must say that I had bought a new feamle and had her in the same cage for one day and then moved her to her own cage the next day found her dead. In the morning Only had her three days. when I found her she was standing up right on all fours and fecal matter on the floor of the cage with blood around fecal matter in two spots. I have taken pictues of my set up and female that is now sleeping with eyes closed during the day and even if you pick her up or touch her . I will post the pictures to look at.I purchased this female and male Dec 26 2007. female was wild caught, male captive bred. The female is suppose to be gravid.
ok so I took a few pictures and put them in photobucket
http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/gg52/c-lcook/female Werner/
 
...
lights 5.0uvb compact
...

replace that with a 5.0 tube ASAP, the compact bulb WILL kill your chameleon. I'd also suggest no exposure to UVB for a week because over exposure to UVB can be deadly. Give her time to get it all out of her system.

EDIT: Also, having the lights on for 14 hours a day is probably a bit much, especially during winter months. I personally do 10 in winter and 12 in summer. These long hours in addition to the 5.0 CF bulb is a recipe for disaster.
Also the reptical you use daily, it it with D3, without, or do you alternate? Vitamin D in excess is a poison.
You shouldn't do the calcium on the same day as the vitamin either, they will cancel each other out.
 
Last edited:
why will it kill my chameleon, and no uvb, so feel really stupid here I thought they needed it to survive
 
see my edits above.
They do need UVB to survive however many compact fluorescent bulbs have been proven deadly.

http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor.htm
Read that.


Here is a quote from the above linked guide under the section "Help! I think my reptile has this problem, what shall I do?"
However, if your reptile is showing these symptoms AND you have recently installed one of the lamps featured in this report - especially if your reptile can get close to the lamp - yes, it is possible that your pet has developed photo-kerato-conjunctivitis.

* It will do no harm, in the short term, to switch off the new UVB lamp for 1 - 2 days. (The sun does not shine every day, even in the tropics.) Do not switch off the (non UVB) basking light or heating! If the UVB lamp was the source of the problem, recovery may be seen (but do not wait 1-2 days before seeking veterinary help, if your reptile is ill.)
* Double check the distance of your lamp from the reptile. Check out the manufacturer's instructions regarding minimum basking distances and also read our reports carefully, to see whether at the distance your lamp was set, the UV radiation could have been excessive. If you plan on continuing to use the lamp, ensure that when you use it again, it is placed at a suitable distance.
* Were you using an aluminium reflector? This can boost the UVB beneath a lamp to extremely high levels. Check the details in our report.
* Was your reptile able to move into a sheltered area away from the UV lamp? It is essential that every set-up provides areas of shade; a UVB gradient is as essential as a heat gradient.
* If your reptile has stopped eating and drinking, there may be a risk from dehydration, particularly with young hatchlings. Seek veterinary advice about offering small drinks of water (usually by dropper; never force fluids into the mouth as there is a risk of getting water into the lungs)
* Once a reptile has completely recovered from photo-kerato-conjunctivitis, UVB lighting should be provided again, this time at more suitable levels. Some owners may wish to re-introduce the lamp which caused the problems, but at a more appropriate distance. Others may wish to replace the lamp with one which does not contain the "phototherapy" phosphor described in our reports.

It might seem appropriate to re-introduce UVB gradually. We suggest that initially, the appropriate level of UVB could be offered for a shorter period of time than normal, building up to the "full day" over a period of a week or so. Obviously, we would recommend that you observe your reptile very carefully for any further problems.


I initially used a CF 5.0 and quick action is what enabled my chameleon to live, the Kammers suggested to me the same things I am suggesting to you.

Best of luck.
 
Last edited:
This is general to most lizards who require uv light....Compact bulbs have been found to cause photo kerato conjunctivitis. Anyone on here will tell you to get rid of it and get a linear tube, either reptiSUN 5.0 or Reptiglo 5.0 however the reptiSUN is far better and worth the little extra money. You can get the housing for the tube at walmart or home depot for a cheap price.

These lights are absolutely terrible for you animal and she is making it very obvious. Even if you can't get the new light for just a few days it is better to leave that one off, sell it, or just throw it away kuz they are junk. It really irritates me that people even recommend these, their effects are detrimental.

As far as you other little chickee, did you ever figure out what caused her death?
 
First of all, its always wise to quarantine chameleons (especially WC's) for at least a couple of months. Not only do I quarantine them for that long, I try to keep them in separate rooms. Whatever was wrong with the one that died could have been passed to the remaining two in the cage.

Secondly, I do not recommend keeping werner's chameleons together in the same cage....especially true if the female is gravid....and she looks like she is gravid in the photos. When you get a WC female that is gravid and live-bearing its usually difficult to get her through the birth and to have the babies survive.

You said you are using a compact UVB bulb....many oif them have been causing photo kerato conjuctivitus. Here's the site that talks about it...
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/index.htm

Reptical?? Do you mean Rep-cal?

It could be the bulb that is causing the problem...or it could be that she has caught something from the one that died...or it could be something to do with her being gravid.

If its not the light, then it might be a good idea to take her to the vets...the problem is that if she's gravid, this could be stressful at the wrong time....so I really don't know what would be best.
 
Colleen: See this site: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/ about certain compact UVB bulbs and blindness in chams. Maybe this is what is going on with your girl? I've been using the ESU (I think?) brand for some time now and I've not had a problem.

I've looked at your pics and beyond the eye problem, she looks ok. She's not skinny. She's not dehydrated. This is good. Perhaps she's got something in her eye(s)? Giving her a shower for 10-15 minutes might help.

Obviously a trip to the vet is what is recommended. We can only guess as to what the problem is.

Good luck. Keep me posted.
Trace
 
wasn't it only the 10.0 compact bulbs that were having problems?

The study says it happens in the 5.0's as well just not as often.
I, however, can attest that my chameleon started to show these symptoms and when i removed the CF and replaced it with a tube 1 week later he was back to normal by day 5 and showed improvement on day 1.
 
First of all, its always wise to quarantine chameleons (especially WC's) for at least a couple of months. Not only do I quarantine them for that long, I try to keep them in separate rooms. Whatever was wrong with the one that died could have been passed to the remaining two in the cage.

Secondly, I do not recommend keeping werner's chameleons together in the same cage....especially true if the female is gravid....and she looks like she is gravid in the photos. When you get a WC female that is gravid and live-bearing its usually difficult to get her through the birth and to have the babies survive.

You said you are using a compact UVB bulb....many oif them have been causing photo kerato conjuctivitus. Here's the site that talks about it...
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/index.htm

Reptical?? Do you mean Rep-cal?

It could be the bulb that is causing the problem...or it could be that she has caught something from the one that died...or it could be something to do with her being gravid.

If its not the light, then it might be a good idea to take her to the vets...the problem is that if she's gravid, this could be stressful at the wrong time....so I really don't know what would be best.
I use Rep-Cal Herptivite only on wednesday, no calcium on this day.I use Rep-Cal calcium with vit d3 on mon, tue,thurs,fri,sat,sun.And yes these lights came very highly recomended.
 
I dust at most feedings with Rep-cal calcium. Twice a month I use their vitamin powder and twice a month I use Rep-cal calcium/D3.
 
I use Rep-Cal Herptivite only on wednesday, no calcium on this day.I use Rep-Cal calcium with vit d3 on mon, tue,thurs,fri,sat,sun.And yes these lights came very highly recomended.

Over supplementation of vitamin d3 can be poisonous to the chameleon.
And like every oe else said the compact bulbs have been known to cause problems.
 
A little bit of rep-cal dust goes a long way. Make sure you use just a small pinch to dust the feeders. You can tell if a cham is over supplemented if you see white crystals around the nostrols. Also. it might not be as important right now, but you should also get some live plants in there. It will definetly reduce the stress in a WC Cham. Make sure you wash it down with soapy water and replace the soil with a plain top soil like Supersoil brand. But you don't need to do this during quarrintine. Only when they are free of parisites.
 
Just an update

Ok so today I went out and bought all new lights and fixtures so we will have to see how it goes. But I will leave the lights off for a couple of days. Since I turned out the light( compact florencent) the female werner is awake a little more but I still catch her once in awhile with her eyes closed.
 
Live plants

I tried that, but me and plants don't like each other. They live for about a week. That is one trait my mother did not pass on.I even followed her directions on plant care.With my the only outcome is my panther Cam having a twig in his cage.
 
Back
Top Bottom