Cham on bottom of cage

I would switch the Herptivite for a vitamin powder that has a prEformed source of vitamin A since it's a panther chameleon.

I already mentioned the UVB light...and the laybin is another thing that should be added.

I would like to see her sleeping in the branches rather than on the floor of the cage.
 
I’ll put my feedback in bold.
  • Cham INFO: Female panther chameleon, had her for about 2 weeks and honestly have no clue on her age
    • Handling: Once every couple of days I handle her for about 5 minutes and then back into enclosure.
    • Location: Western NC
  • Feeding/Supplements:
    • Feeding: 2-3 super worms every other day (she has NOT been eating well) she has only pooped 2 times since being in my care Superworms are great for treats, but should not be a staple feeder. Crickets, roaches, silkworms, etc are much better. Whatever feeders you have need to be well cared for and fed so that they are more nutritious. Attaching feeder and gutloading graphics for you.
    • Feeders: super worms with occasional cricket or dubia but have been removed since they weren’t eaten
    • Supplements: All feeders are dusted with repti-calcium NO D3 and have done one feeding dusted with rep-cal herptivite and plan to dust one feeding with calcium with D3 (vitamins and D3 2x per month) Reptivite is a good multivitamin (has preformed vitamin A for eye health) and comes both with and without D3. If you get without D3, give one feeding every other week alternating with your calcium with D3. If you get with D3, still use one feeding every other week but you won’t need the calcium with D3.
  • Cage Info:
    • 18" x 18" x 24”- glass enclosure with screen panels This is really much too small. Being arboreal, chameleons are happiest when having vertical space and being up high. Minimum size is 2x2x4’ or equivalent. You want to create a mini forest edge for her. I’ll attach a pic of one of my enclosures to give you an idea.
      • Temps and Humidity: 82 F and 50% humidity during day
    • UVB light 12 hours per day and basking bulb and spot As has already been said, you need a linear T5 fixture (long enough to span the width of her enclosure) with either ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6%. Uvb light needs to be about 8-9” above basking area.
    • No lights at night time Perfect!
    • Adding dripper tomorrow You can run this for about 20-30 minutes mid day.
    • Misting 2x daily Ideally you’re misting for at least 2 minutes, just before lights on and just before lights off.
    • Adding lay bin ASAP You’ll need a bin at least 11-12” wide and long. Fill to about 6” with play sand moistened enough to hold a tunnel without collapsing.
    • No substrate Perfect!
    • Currently a money tree, croton, and ficus Perfect!
Anything I forgot?? But my sweet girl stays up in the trees during the day, but slept on a vine touching the ground last night and is now sitting on the bare glass bottom of the tank. I am worried about her!! She has mostly been acting normal but hasn’t eaten in a few
I don’t know if it’s because she’s asleep or shadows, but her eyes look a little sunken in, like she’s dehydrated a bit. Great way to get some extra hydration into her is hornworms….they are basically sacks of water. Just know that they can bite (same as superworms) and their feet are very grippy. Is best to put on a leaf for her so she doesn’t risk pulling her tongue. Changing your feeders, feeding them well and giving her more variety will help her to poo more regularly. It’s always a good idea to have a wellness check and fecal test for parasites from a good vet.
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I’ll put my feedback in bold.
  • Cham INFO: Female panther chameleon, had her for about 2 weeks and honestly have no clue on her age
    • Handling: Once every couple of days I handle her for about 5 minutes and then back into enclosure.
    • Location: Western NC
  • Feeding/Supplements:
    • Feeding: 2-3 super worms every other day (she has NOT been eating well) she has only pooped 2 times since being in my care Superworms are great for treats, but should not be a staple feeder. Crickets, roaches, silkworms, etc are much better. Whatever feeders you have need to be well cared for and fed so that they are more nutritious. Attaching feeder and gutloading graphics for you.
    • Feeders: super worms with occasional cricket or dubia but have been removed since they weren’t eaten
    • Supplements: All feeders are dusted with repti-calcium NO D3 and have done one feeding dusted with rep-cal herptivite and plan to dust one feeding with calcium with D3 (vitamins and D3 2x per month) Reptivite is a good multivitamin (has preformed vitamin A for eye health) and comes both with and without D3. If you get without D3, give one feeding every other week alternating with your calcium with D3. If you get with D3, still use one feeding every other week but you won’t need the calcium with D3.
  • Cage Info:
    • 18" x 18" x 24”- glass enclosure with screen panels This is really much too small. Being arboreal, chameleons are happiest when having vertical space and being up high. Minimum size is 2x2x4’ or equivalent. You want to create a mini forest edge for her. I’ll attach a pic of one of my enclosures to give you an idea.
      • Temps and Humidity: 82 F and 50% humidity during day
    • UVB light 12 hours per day and basking bulb and spot As has already been said, you need a linear T5 fixture (long enough to span the width of her enclosure) with either ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6%. Uvb light needs to be about 8-9” above basking area.
    • No lights at night time Perfect!
    • Adding dripper tomorrow You can run this for about 20-30 minutes mid day.
    • Misting 2x daily Ideally you’re misting for at least 2 minutes, just before lights on and just before lights off.
    • Adding lay bin ASAP You’ll need a bin at least 11-12” wide and long. Fill to about 6” with play sand moistened enough to hold a tunnel without collapsing.
    • No substrate Perfect!
    • Currently a money tree, croton, and ficus Perfect!
Anything I forgot?? But my sweet girl stays up in the trees during the day, but slept on a vine touching the ground last night and is now sitting on the bare glass bottom of the tank. I am worried about her!! She has mostly been acting normal but hasn’t eaten in a few
I don’t know if it’s because she’s asleep or shadows, but her eyes look a little sunken in, like she’s dehydrated a bit. Great way to get some extra hydration into her is hornworms….they are basically sacks of water. Just know that they can bite (same as superworms) and their feet are very grippy. Is best to put on a leaf for her so she doesn’t risk pulling her tongue. Changing your feeders, feeding them well and giving her more variety will help her to poo more regularly. It’s always a good idea to have a wellness check and fecal test for parasites from a good vet.
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Thank you so much!! I’ll be taking note of all of your info and putting into play!
 
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