Chameleon Walking On Floor
- Thread starter morganeoreilly
- Start date
If you overfeed a velied female, she will likely produce a large clutch and that can lead to egg binding and follicular stasis. If it does, they need to be spayed….but you have to take the chameleon in before she gets too far gone for the surgery to be safe.
Her basking temperature needs to be kept at 80ishF too.
If she becomes lethargic, sits low in the cage, closes her eyes in the daytime, etc then she’s going downhill and you have to act fast.
Her basking temperature needs to be kept at 80ishF too.
If she becomes lethargic, sits low in the cage, closes her eyes in the daytime, etc then she’s going downhill and you have to act fast.
morganeoreilly
Member
this photo is from February 5th. there are even less marking on the 4th
Attachments
morganeoreilly
Member
alright I’ll keep that in mind. what would be considered over feeding in this scenario? She hasn’t been eating for probably the last 4 or 5 days now. she ate maybe one or two crickets on friday
morganeoreilly
Member
less colorful photo is on the 4th, photo with color on the 10th
Attachments
Reproduction isn’t easy to deal with.
To slow down or even stop egg production in veiled females you have to have her on the diet and keep the basking temperature at 80F to slow her metabolism so she won’t be too hungry. This has to be done from the start of her cycle…which is hard to figure out.
Once she is producing eggs…also hard to figure out exactly when she starts you have to feed her well enough that she can produce good eggs without depleting her own stores of nutrients.
Also…she may stop eating or slow down as she gets close to the laying.
The “diet” is to cut her down so she’s eating only 3 or 4 insects 3 times a week. (You want to feed her enough that she’s not skinny but not enough to kick her into producing too many follicles.)
If you have any more questions just ask…I’ll do my best to answer!
To slow down or even stop egg production in veiled females you have to have her on the diet and keep the basking temperature at 80F to slow her metabolism so she won’t be too hungry. This has to be done from the start of her cycle…which is hard to figure out.
Once she is producing eggs…also hard to figure out exactly when she starts you have to feed her well enough that she can produce good eggs without depleting her own stores of nutrients.
Also…she may stop eating or slow down as she gets close to the laying.
The “diet” is to cut her down so she’s eating only 3 or 4 insects 3 times a week. (You want to feed her enough that she’s not skinny but not enough to kick her into producing too many follicles.)
If you have any more questions just ask…I’ll do my best to answer!
morganeoreilly
Member
I check her basking temp ir seems to be around 80-81 and yeah that sounds about right. I was feeding her 3-4 crickets every monday wednesday friday maybe plus or minus a day
You’re not overfeeding her …or at least she’s not over eating at the moment.
She might be getting close to the laying rather than past it….at least thats what I’m hoping.
morganeoreilly
Member
still not much movement or going down to the lower parts of the cage and still not eating that I can see
Attachments
Similar threads
