Crickets "don't stick" to tongue? PLEASE HELP!

Sebastiaan

New Member
Chameleon and Habitat Info:
I have a male Veiled Cham anywhere from 2 to 5 years old that we rescued about a year ago. He has a deformed casque and was severely burned from the tip of his nose to the base of the tail and on all the knees by the previous owner. The wounds have since healed and scabs fell off. He used to hiss, but it seems we have earned his respect :) since nowadays he does not mind being handled. He is on a diet of gut loaded crickets (that he needs to hunt) and superworms (in a dish) every other day. He is in a 2x2x4 well planted screen cage by the window, that we keep slightly opened for fresh air. We live in Vegas, so the temps are good, but humidity is a constant battle. We spray him two/three times a day, he has a dripper, but the misting system is still not fully set up yet. He has plenty of shade if he wants it, UVB light, full spectrum fluorescent and a hallogen basking spot light (all at a safe distance from him). We often have a infrared light (red glowing light) on for the night warmth.

Current Problem:
He gets within an inch of the cricket to catch it and still it does not stick to his tongue after he attempts 2 to 5 times to pick it up. I was worried if superworms or cricket legs injured his tongue or he is developing MBD because not enough Ca powder remains on the crickets once they are loose in the cage or because we cut back UV light to 2 hours a day for several month when we had the window opened and his back wound seemed too raw for UV exposure. He looks healthy otherwise, no sores on mouth, good grip, good appetite, drinks water well. However, a month or two ago he was eating 6-8 crickets per feeding plus an additional 2-3 worms. Now he can only be handfed and will not eat more than 1-2 crickets or 2-3 worms per feeding, although he seems eager to eat every feeding time. What can be the cause of him not being able to eat well on his own? Thank you for any help you can give me!!
 

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Typically tongue issues can trace back to some sort of deficiency. What type of supplements are your using? Every chameleon owner should provide 3 types of supplements, plain calcium, calcium with d3, and a multivitamin. Your lack of a multivitamin may be whats causing his tongue issues. Is that photo his current setup?
 
What is the temperature in the basking area? Does he sit in the basking area?
What supplements have you been using and how often?
What do you gutload the insects with?
 
unless the temp drop below 60 F, no need for night light.

no need for night light period. Get him a ceramic heater if the temps drop to the low 60's. You do NOT want to have light shining on him at night, period. What kind of UVB lamp are you using? Is it a tube or screw in lamp. What is the output of the UVB?

I imagine he has stopped being mean because the level of care you provide is better than what he had. I have a petsmart veiled that loves me because his care now is much better.
 
Lights and supplements update

Thank you for all the replies. The photo is of his current setup. I would like to build a bigger one that the plants can be suspended in and it is easier to clean, but still looking for ideas on the design. I added a hibiscus and a pothos this week to his usual two ficus trees. I have a Big Apple's misting system run, but it is non-functional since the end nozzle keeps flying of the tubing, flooding the cage and the room. Not a good purchase, the first pump they sent was leaking, the replacement works, but now needs work to secure the line on the nozzle. I am still glad to have it. I spray the enclosure twice a day.
The only supplement I have been using is the Fluker's Repta-Calcium to thorougly dust the crickets before feeding. It has limestone flour and D-activated sterol as a source of vitamin D-3. He has to hunt the crickets, so by the time he gets them the powder is often minimal. We moved to Vegas from Baton Rouge where Flukers's is from, so I am hooked on the company. I use their Orange Cube cricket diet, Ca Fortified Cricket Quencher, and for gut-loading, Fluker's High-Ca Cricket Feed. Crickets also get oranges, limes, and apples from time to time. I have been buying crickets from Pet Smart, but since the problem started ordered them from Fluker's, but he is not eating much.
Lights: He loves his basking light. I had a 100W Exo-terra Day Glo. Now, trying anything to make him better, I switched to 100W Halogen basking light. The temp in the basking area is in a gradient of 95 to 103. He sits there all morning and then moves by the open window for the rest of the day. He used to have a Repti-Glo 8.0 tube bulb for only 2 hours a day because his back was a fresh thin skin, I was afraid it was too fragile. Since the problems started, the set up is 12 hours of 26W Exo-terra Full spectrum Repti-Glo 2.0 UVB and 6 hours of Repti Glo 10.0 UVB self balasted compact fluorescent bulbs. I use 100W Exo-terra heat Glo Infrared for the night, because I get home after dark and it helps to clean his cage without waking him up. The temp at night is in the mid to upper 60s without the lamp. The problems started at the same time we had a cold front come through and his basking light blew out, so I replaced it about two days later. Thank you for suggestions on supplements and the lighting. I was worried superworms have injured his mouth and my short comings of temp and lights did not help. I could not examine his mouth well. The 1/2 inch portion of the tongue that he extends to get the cricket seems healthy. He extends it very slowly and even if I press a cricket to it, he drops it. Should I give him liquid Ca and vit D3? Thank you everyone.
 
Pictures

Pictures of Harold from this morning.
 

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CFL vs linear fluorescent bulbs

Thank you for your reply, Josh. Could you please, just briefly, tell me why you don't recommend compact fluorescent bulbs, or point me in the direction where to look for info. Just last week, I bought two canopies and the light bulbs as well as a set of replacement :) to switch from the linear system that I had before.
 
So, my plan is to change the lights, recheck the temperatures, and for a few weeks to supplement with liquid Ca twice a day, vitamin D3 and vitamin B complex once a week each, and maybe vitamin A as well or to get to the vet for the injection of each and a thorough examination of the mouth. I would rather not stress him with a trip to the vet, but injections are less traumatic and more efficient then force feeding the supplements. What do you think? I also got a shipment of Mulberry farm's silkworms and a few butterworms as a new treat.
 
You should read this site for your sumplementation info: Raising Kitty

Then read the link mentioned above: UV Guide

The UV guide site has a lot of helpful information.

The tried and true method for lighting a chameleon in a screen cage has been a 5.0 Reptisun linear tube lamp next to a house-hold halogen or ZooMed 'full spectrum' basking day time lamp. Veileds don't need a TON of heat. They like it warm around 95 at the high end. higher than that is a wast of power. I use 50W ZooMed spot lamps and provide a branch for the cham to get right up to the spot. In the AM the veileds and panther are basking right under the heat lamp.

Compact UVB lamps are VERY bad. I had a cham killed by one. They produce levels of UVC. UVC is used in water purification and toothbrush sanitizers to kill organisms.

MV and MH lamps are also a bit over the top when it comes to caged animals. Chameleons don't need that much UV all day. If you had a free range animal maybe a MV lamp might be good to provide a basking and UV source. MV and MH produce LOTS of light and heat and can create levels of UV in ranges not desired. If you don't have a meter to set the lamp up with a safe and effective location they might not be worth the trouble of burning your chameleon.

My lighting for my Melleri Lenny.

2-36" Reptisun 10.0 tubes and a 100W basking lamp.
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