Dehydrated Veiled Cham

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - veiled, male, 3 years old. In my care for 3 years.
  • Handling - only for steam showers or as needed.
  • Feeding - usually crickets and safe fruit and veggies. Crickets everyother day and fruits/ veggies 2 timesva week. My feeders get fruits and veggies and water.
  • Supplements - vitamin d3 and vitamin a, flukers once a week.
  • Watering - I have a dripper that I turn on about twice a week for 2-3 hours at a time and I completely mist his cage 1-2 times a day. I used to see him drink but not in the past couple months.
  • Fecal Description - A yellowish orange a bit watery, never been larasite tested.
  • History - Always been healthy and protective boy.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - All screen, largest exoterra cage.
  • Lighting - 150 basking bulb and a uv bulb for 11 hours a day (on a timer). I think they are reptibulbs or flukers.
  • Temperature - Don't measure cage temps, never had a problem before now. (65-70f) in house.
  • Humidity - I mist everyday and give steam showers 3 times a week.
  • Plants - All fake
  • Placement - Cage is in top of a card table against a wall. There is a window in the toom but not really close to the cage. Only in room briefly in morning but hes still asleep, and at night.
  • Location - Michigan
Current Problem - I think he is severly dehydrated and hass a loss in apitite.

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Your chameleon is very sick. He's not far from death I'm sorry to say. I'd get home to a vet....like yesterday.

When a chameleon's eyes are sunken in it may be dehydration but the problem itself is very often more than just dehydration....the dehydration is the result of some other health issue.

Your chameleon has not been getting proper supplements.

You should be dusting lightly at almost all feedings with a phos free calcium powder to help balance the ratio of calcium to phos found in many of the feeder insects and keep his bones and muscles and other systems healthy.

You should dust lightly with a phos free calcium/D3 powder twice a month...this gives him some D3 without overdosing him and leaving him to produce the rest of the D3 he needs from the exposure to the UVB light you are providing him. D3 from supplements builds up in their systems and leads to health issues but D3 produced from exposure to UVB light won't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB at will.

You should be dusting with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (proformed) source of vitamin A lightly twice a month. This form of vitamin A won't build up in the system and it leaves it up to you to decide if/when your chameleon needs some prEformed vitamin A (which does build up in their system).

For UVB, the most often recommended light is the long linear tube Reptisun 5.0 bulb.

Appropriate temperatures will aid in digestion so it's important to know the cage and basking temperatures.

I run a dripper EVERY day. Orange urates indicate dehydration so you need to get more water into him....and you don't want to have to force him to drink...or eat for that matter. You want it to be stressfree ...make it so he's willing.

Good luck with him.
 
Just realized that you were told in January about the dusting with calcium and you didn't change it. What was the vitamin A? PrOformed or prEformed?
 
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - veiled, male, 3 years old. In my care for 3 years.
  • Handling - only for steam showers or as needed.
  • Feeding - usually crickets and safe fruit and veggies. Crickets everyother day and fruits/ veggies 2 timesva week. My feeders get fruits and veggies and water. until you get things sorted out, it might be helpful to just pick up a tub of repashy bug burger or superload to gutload your feeders. Use as a wet mix to increase water content.
  • Supplements - vitamin d3 and vitamin a, flukers once a week. this is not enough detail here. The current accepted methods for supplementation are this:
  • 1) straight calcium with no d3 at every feeding; calcium with d3 every two weeks; a multivitamin every two weeks; the latter two on opposite weeks. In short, just calcium with no d3 every feeding; once every two weeks, calcium with d3; once every two weeks, a multivitamin.
  • 2) or, repashy calcium plus LoD at every feeding
  • 3) there are other supplementation regimes that also work, but these are the two easiest.
  • SO, pleas explain further which of any regime you are using. To say, “d3 and a every week and flukers,” does not tell us what you are supplementing with. Take a pic of each bottle, and say how often you are using each.
    Watering - I have a dripper that I turn on about twice a week for 2-3 hours at a time and I completely mist his cage 1-2 times a day. I used to see him drink but not in the past couple months.
  • Drippers, if they are used for hydration, should probably be used everyday, for several hours. I won’t bog you down with current misting theory, but a daytime dripper plus three misting sessions a day is bare minimum. I think you’ll see better results if you do this, and focus on getting his overnite RH up to 85% plus.
  • Fecal Description - A yellowish orange a bit watery, never been larasite tested.
  • History - Always been healthy and protective boy.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - All screen, largest exoterra cage.
  • Lighting - 150 basking bulb and a uv bulb for 11 hours a day (on a timer). I think they are reptibulbs or flukers. I don’t think flukers makes appropriate bulbs, but I could be wrong. What we need to know is the type of bulb, eg compact fluorescent (spiral or looped), or linear (t5 or t8), and the uvb rating: either 5.0 or
  • Temperature - Don't measure cage temps, never had a problem before now. (65-70f) in house.this is not sufficient info. It would be helpful if we knew what the exact temp is at his favourite basking location. Alternatively, can you leave your hand at his basking branch for several minute without discomfort.
  • Humidity - I mist everyday and give steam showers 3 times a week.again, this tells us what you do to provide him water, but not his ambient humidity levels
  • Plants - All faket this is something that can be discussed at a later point, but live plants help increase humidity
  • Placement - Cage is in top of a card table against a wall. There is a window in the toom but not really close to the cage. Only in room briefly in morning but hes still asleep, and at night.
  • Location - Michigan
Current Problem - I think he is severly dehydrated and hass a loss in apitite.

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Thank you for quick response. Is there anything more I can do for him with out a vet? Ill check around but im not sure anyone sees chams near me. And im a little confused on the supplements should He not get d3 at all or does he need it more? And is there a different calcium I should be using and how often? Same with the vitamin a.
 
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - veiled, male, 3 years old. In my care for 3 years.
  • Handling - only for steam showers or as needed.
Please never ever bring your chameleon in the shower. no reason is good enough to justify a shower, its superstressfull and can create thermal shock and can lead to infection
  • Feeding - usually crickets and safe fruit and veggies. Crickets everyother day and fruits/ veggies 2 timesva week. My feeders get fruits and veggies and water.
You should bannish fruit its too much sugar for a chameleon. Chameleon hardly digest veggies so at cetain point its useless but some theory purpose they use veggie to help with digestion.. but remember its only 10% of their diet
  • Supplements - vitamin d3 and vitamin a, flukers once a week.
Any calcium? any other vitamins/gutload? If no, he lack lot of other things (crickets dont have enough of other notriment and have poor phosphorus/calcium ratio so this lead to "not enough calcium in final"
  • Watering - I have a dripper that I turn on about twice a week for 2-3 hours at a time and I completely mist his cage 1-2 times a day. I used to see him drink but not in the past couple months.
Because of my past reading, i think he might have an infection.. should take picture from the mouth open maybe he did struggle to swallow
  • Fecal Description - A yellowish orange a bit watery, never been larasite tested.
Thats effectively sign of dehydratation fact that he didnt drink maybe indicated he can't do it or he is too weak too . you should test for parasite on the next poop (when was the last poop btw?)
  • History - Always been healthy and protective boy.
do you have pictures from last months? of video this is better
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - All screen, largest exoterra cage.
thats perfect
  • Lighting - 150 basking bulb and a uv bulb for 11 hours a day (on a timer). I think they are reptibulbs or flukers.
150w is too much you will roast the poor boys ;) drop it for 80w? something like that?
  • Temperature - Don't measure cage temps, never had a problem before now. (65-70f) in house.
you should but infrared temp gun measurement is the key toward a good tracking of your husbandry, since he can't talk to say "hey! its too hot or too cold" you should keep tracking of this thightly and make yourself sure the hot spot if hot enough and the cold spot is chill enough : 10$ on amazon.. no excuses ;)
  • Humidity - I mist everyday and give steam showers 3 times a week.
any idea on % of humidity? as i say stop the shower please its a bas idea (Yemen come from.. yemen.. its not really a rainy land too him this is unnatural
  • Plants - All fake
Better if you turn this too "all real" (dont forget he can actually chew and swallow a plastic leave and this is always end drammatically.. i switch to real plant when i have to run to remove a plastic leave from my chameleon mouth before catastrophe.. stay alert stay safe (if you are from canada.. and from 1990 you might laugh now lol;)
  • Placement - Cage is in top of a card table against a wall. There is a window in the toom but not really close to the cage. Only in room briefly in morning but hes still asleep, and at night.
  • Location - Michigan
Current Problem - I think he is severly dehydrated and hass a loss in apitite.

He actually is sick :/ Can you grab a video of you pinching the body skin? this is the best way to test hydratation level. sunken eyes can be exhaustion sign. If he is dehydrated for real you will need tube, seringue and lubrifiant (without perfume..) and tube the side of a misting system with seringue without needle i will guide you with the procedure if needed but this boy need vet assistance potentially antibiotics and fecal test

Here a list of exotic veterinarian in michigan https://www.thesprucepets.com/michigan-exotics-vet-1239000

Can he use his tail? is this feel weak? how is the grip

Head is up in the first picture, is this something usual? did he sometime keep his mouth open?

What is your UVB?

is this your first chameleon?

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Thank you for quick response. Is there anything more I can do for him with out a vet? Ill check around but im not sure anyone sees chams near me. And im a little confused on the supplements should He not get d3 at all or does he need it more? And is there a different calcium I should be using and how often? Same with the vitamin a.
As @kinyonga said, there’s no avoiding a vet visit at this point. The cost for an initial visit is probably less than $100 and your Cham, in my humble opinion, needs medical help at this point.
 
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - veiled, male, 3 years old. In my care for 3 years.
  • Handling - only for steam showers or as needed.
Please never ever bring your chameleon in the shower. no reason is good enough to justify a shower, its superstressfull and can create thermal shock and can lead to infection
  • Feeding - usually crickets and safe fruit and veggies. Crickets everyother day and fruits/ veggies 2 timesva week. My feeders get fruits and veggies and water.
You should bannish fruit its too much sugar for a chameleon. Chameleon hardly digest veggies so at cetain point its useless but some theory purpose they use veggie to help with digestion.. but remember its only 10% of their diet
  • Supplements - vitamin d3 and vitamin a, flukers once a week.
Any calcium? any other vitamins/gutload? If no, he lack lot of other things (crickets dont have enough of other notriment and have poor phosphorus/calcium ratio so this lead to "not enough calcium in final"
  • Watering - I have a dripper that I turn on about twice a week for 2-3 hours at a time and I completely mist his cage 1-2 times a day. I used to see him drink but not in the past couple months.
Because of my past reading, i think he might have an infection.. should take picture from the mouth open maybe he did struggle to swallow
  • Fecal Description - A yellowish orange a bit watery, never been larasite tested.
Thats effectively sign of dehydratation fact that he didnt drink maybe indicated he can't do it or he is too weak too . you should test for parasite on the next poop (when was the last poop btw?)
  • History - Always been healthy and protective boy.
do you have pictures from last months? of video this is better
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - All screen, largest exoterra cage.
thats perfect
  • Lighting - 150 basking bulb and a uv bulb for 11 hours a day (on a timer). I think they are reptibulbs or flukers.
150w is too much you will roast the poor boys ;) drop it for 80w? something like that?
  • Temperature - Don't measure cage temps, never had a problem before now. (65-70f) in house.
you should but infrared temp gun measurement is the key toward a good tracking of your husbandry, since he can't talk to say "hey! its too hot or too cold" you should keep tracking of this thightly and make yourself sure the hot spot if hot enough and the cold spot is chill enough : 10$ on amazon.. no excuses ;)
  • Humidity - I mist everyday and give steam showers 3 times a week.
any idea on % of humidity? as i say stop the shower please its a bas idea (Yemen come from.. yemen.. its not really a rainy land too him this is unnatural
  • Plants - All fake
Better if you turn this too "all real" (dont forget he can actually chew and swallow a plastic leave and this is always end drammatically.. i switch to real plant when i have to run to remove a plastic leave from my chameleon mouth before catastrophe.. stay alert stay safe (if you are from canada.. and from 1990 you might laugh now lol;)
  • Placement - Cage is in top of a card table against a wall. There is a window in the toom but not really close to the cage. Only in room briefly in morning but hes still asleep, and at night.
  • Location - Michigan
Current Problem - I think he is severly dehydrated and hass a loss in apitite.

He actually is sick :/ Can you grab a video of you pinching the body skin? this is the best way to test hydratation level. sunken eyes can be exhaustion sign. If he is dehydrated for real you will need tube, seringue and lubrifiant (without perfume..) and tube the side of a misting system with seringue without needle i will guide you with the procedure if needed but this boy need vet assistance potentially antibiotics and fecal test

Here a list of exotic veterinarian in michigan https://www.thesprucepets.com/michigan-exotics-vet-1239000

Can he use his tail? is this feel weak? how is the grip

Head is up in the first picture, is this something usual? did he sometime keep his mouth open?

What is your UVB?

is this your first chameleon?

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He can use his tail. His back grip is decent but his front a little weak. He usualy puts his head up after eating and drinking (he has always done this) he had just eaten a little. He does not usually keep his mouth open. Ill check what my uvb is right away. He is my first Chameleon, I have also previously owned a leopord gecko.
 
He can use his tail. His back grip is decent but his front a little weak. He usualy puts his head up after eating and drinking (he has always done this) he had just eaten a little. He does not usually keep his mouth open. Ill check what my uvb is right away. He is my first Chameleon, I have also previously owned a leopord gecko.
To be clear, there’s no judgement here. We’re all just trying to help, so please excuse us if we seem pushy. Chameleons are a bit trickier than some other reptiles, and we all want you to succeed in your chameleon adventure.
 
Thank you for quick response. Is there anything more I can do for him with out a vet? Ill check around but im not sure anyone sees chams near me. And im a little confused on the supplements should He not get d3 at all or does he need it more? And is there a different calcium I should be using and how often? Same with the vitamin a.
I explained the supplements....phos free...D3...vitamin free....plain calcium at almost every feeding....that's all feedings but 4 n a month. 2 of those four its a phos free...vitamin free (except for vitaminD3) calcium powder that contains D3. 2times a month it's the vitamin powder...no phos...no preformed vitaminA... But with all the non fat soluble vitamins in it.
 
He can use his tail. His back grip is decent but his front a little weak. He usualy puts his head up after eating and drinking (he has always done this) he had just eaten a little. He does not usually keep his mouth open. Ill check what my uvb is right away. He is my first Chameleon, I have also previously owned a leopord gecko.
Ok, try to take me a picture from the inside of the mouth and the video of you pinching the skins ;)

So bullet point :

-no more shower
-no more fruit
-no more plastic
-no more 150W roaster bullb
-one more infrared temp gun
-one more pot of multivittamins
-one more calcium at every meal

got picture of the cage?
-
 
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - veiled, male, 3 years old. In my care for 3 years.
  • Handling - only for steam showers or as needed.
Please never ever bring your chameleon in the shower. no reason is good enough to justify a shower, its superstressfull and can create thermal shock and can lead to infection
  • Feeding - usually crickets and safe fruit and veggies. Crickets everyother day and fruits/ veggies 2 timesva week. My feeders get fruits and veggies and water.
You should bannish fruit its too much sugar for a chameleon. Chameleon hardly digest veggies so at cetain point its useless but some theory purpose they use veggie to help with digestion.. but remember its only 10% of their diet
  • Supplements - vitamin d3 and vitamin a, flukers once a week.
Any calcium? any other vitamins/gutload? If no, he lack lot of other things (crickets dont have enough of other notriment and have poor phosphorus/calcium ratio so this lead to "not enough calcium in final"
  • Watering - I have a dripper that I turn on about twice a week for 2-3 hours at a time and I completely mist his cage 1-2 times a day. I used to see him drink but not in the past couple months.
Because of my past reading, i think he might have an infection.. should take picture from the mouth open maybe he did struggle to swallow
  • Fecal Description - A yellowish orange a bit watery, never been larasite tested.
Thats effectively sign of dehydratation fact that he didnt drink maybe indicated he can't do it or he is too weak too . you should test for parasite on the next poop (when was the last poop btw?)
  • History - Always been healthy and protective boy.
do you have pictures from last months? of video this is better
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - All screen, largest exoterra cage.
thats perfect
  • Lighting - 150 basking bulb and a uv bulb for 11 hours a day (on a timer). I think they are reptibulbs or flukers.
150w is too much you will roast the poor boys ;) drop it for 80w? something like that?
  • Temperature - Don't measure cage temps, never had a problem before now. (65-70f) in house.
you should but infrared temp gun measurement is the key toward a good tracking of your husbandry, since he can't talk to say "hey! its too hot or too cold" you should keep tracking of this thightly and make yourself sure the hot spot if hot enough and the cold spot is chill enough : 10$ on amazon.. no excuses ;)
  • Humidity - I mist everyday and give steam showers 3 times a week.
any idea on % of humidity? as i say stop the shower please its a bas idea (Yemen come from.. yemen.. its not really a rainy land too him this is unnatural
  • Plants - All fake
Better if you turn this too "all real" (dont forget he can actually chew and swallow a plastic leave and this is always end drammatically.. i switch to real plant when i have to run to remove a plastic leave from my chameleon mouth before catastrophe.. stay alert stay safe (if you are from canada.. and from 1990 you might laugh now lol;)
  • Placement - Cage is in top of a card table against a wall. There is a window in the toom but not really close to the cage. Only in room briefly in morning but hes still asleep, and at night.
  • Location - Michigan
Current Problem - I think he is severly dehydrated and hass a loss in apitite.

He actually is sick :/ Can you grab a video of you pinching the body skin? this is the best way to test hydratation level. sunken eyes can be exhaustion sign. If he is dehydrated for real you will need tube, seringue and lubrifiant (without perfume..) and tube the side of a misting system with seringue without needle i will guide you with the procedure if needed but this boy need vet assistance potentially antibiotics and fecal test

Here a list of exotic veterinarian in michigan https://www.thesprucepets.com/michigan-exotics-vet-1239000

Can he use his tail? is this feel weak? how is the grip

Head is up in the first picture, is this something usual? did he sometime keep his mouth open?

What is your UVB?

is this your first chameleon?

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How can I test for parasites? He has never actually eaten his fake plants and the guy I got him from gave who has a bunch of reptiles and amphibians gaveme a list of veggies tooffer if he seems to be eyeballing his plants. And I only give him steam showers bc thats what others have told me.
 
To be clear, there’s no judgement here. We’re all just trying to help, so please excuse us if we seem pushy. Chameleons are a bit trickier than some other reptiles, and we all want you to succeed in your chameleon adventure.
Exactly! seriously we all done serious mistake in the past with chameleon.. we learned from experience, from mistakes and from each other mistakes ;) not here to juge just here to help you to help him..

his condition is severe btw :/
 
Ok, try to take me a picture from the inside of the mouth and the video of you pinching the skins ;)

So bullet point :

-no more shower
-no more fruit
-no more plastic
-no more 150W roaster bullb
-one more infrared temp gun
-one more pot of multivittamins
-one more calcium at every meal

got picture of the cage?
-
He does have shade spots from the bulb but he seems to like his bulb. When I pinch his skin lightly it does go back slowly. Ill get a pic of his mouth if I can and ill definately get a cage pic.
 
How can I test for parasites? He has never actually eaten his fake plants and the guy I got him from gave who has a bunch of reptiles and amphibians gaveme a list of veggies tooffer if he seems to be eyeballing his plants. And I only give him steam showers bc thats what others have told me.
well no more shower ;) no more plastic! i give you the reason why and this can only put his life in danger (believe me those who give you the advices were not probably chameleon masters)

How you know he never swallow plastic? (nobody spend 24/7 watching a chameleon during 3 years ;)
 
He does have shade spots from the bulb but he seems to like his bulb. When I pinch his skin lightly it does go back slowly. Ill get a pic of his mouth if I can and ill definately get a cage pic.
all right ill wait for the video and pictures asap snd without a vet i highly doubt you can save him :/

(again condition is serious he is close to death so better to act quick)
 
Please tell me what the form of vitamin A in the powder you've been using. What does it say on the container...beta carotene? Palmitate? Retinol? Retinyl?

You don't have any lights on him at night do you?
 
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