Digging while sleeping

RamenL1f3

New Member
We have a 5 month old male veiled chameleon and he is currently sleeping, his eyes are closed, but he's just digging around his cage, what does this mean??
 
It means something is not right. Post a picture of the chameleon and of the entire enclosure from the lighting down to the bottom of the cage.
 
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Do you have any additional pics of this chameleon you could post? I would like to confirm gender and size. This looks to be a female digging to lay eggs which does not line up with a 5 month old male.

Issue is if eyes are closed this is a chameleon that is going into shut down. If female then more then likely egg bound. You need a reptile vet and you need a cage overhaul as yours looks to be missing components needed to support a chameleon.
 
That is an underweight little male. And by the looks of that last pic he is not doing well at all. Illness or dehydration causes eye turrets to sink in like that. You need a reptile vet asap to determine what is going on. Could be a respiratory issue. Could be cage temps are far too hot. We can go over husbandry to make sure the cage set up is correct but this baby needs help now. Which we can not assist with via the forum as we are not vets.
 

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What if we can't go to a vet?
I can give you the husbandry form to fill out and give you feedback. But honestly unless that cage is a hot box there are few things I can immediately help with to reverse a decline this severe. He is essentially shutting down and dying.


If you would like me to go through your husbandry copy and paste the form below into your reply then fill it out with detail and post it.



Here is some recommended information to include when asking for help in the health clinic forum. By providing this information you will receive more accurate and beneficial responses. It might not be necessary to answer all these questions, but the more you provide the better. Please remember that even the most knowledgeable person can only guess at what your problem may be. Only an experienced reptile veterinarian who can directly examine your animal can give a true diagnosis of your chameleon's health.


Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon Male, 5 months, since a baby
  • Handling - 4-7 times a week
  • Feeding - Crickets and mealworms. 15-20 crickets. 2-3 mealworms. Once a day We sprinkle calcium on both mealworms and crickets
  • Supplements - Repti-calcium. We give him some every 2 days
  • Watering - We have a mister. 2-3 times a day. Sometimes
  • Fecal Description - It's always brown and a separate poop is white. No
  • History - No
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Glass all around, screen on top. 22 inches length wise, 17 1/2 width
  • Lighting - I do not know but they are both zoom med, one is a heat lamp and the other is just a light. They are on all day but we turn them off at night
  • Temperature - 70-80. I do not know. Zoo med thermostat
  • Humidity - 70-90. Water and heat lamp. Zoo-med thermostat
  • Plants - Yes, but I do not know what they are called but we searched them on this website and they were all safe
  • Placement - Next to bed. No. Around 4-5 feet
  • Location - Burien, Washington
Current Problem - Squirming all around and won't open eyes
 
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon Male, 5 months, since a baby
  • Handling - 4-7 times a week
  • Feeding - Crickets and mealworms. 15-20 crickets. 2-3 mealworms. Once a day We sprinkle calcium on both mealworms and crickets
  • Supplements - Repti-calcium. We give him some every 2 days
  • Watering - We have a mister. 2-3 times a day. Sometimes
  • Fecal Description - It's always brown and a separate poop is white. No
  • History - No
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Glass all around, screen on top. 22 inches length wise, 17 1/2 width
  • Lighting - I do not know but they are both zoom med, one is a heat lamp and the other is just a light. They are on all day but we turn them off at night
  • Temperature - 70-80. I do not know. Zoo med thermostat
  • Humidity - 70-90. Water and heat lamp. Zoo-med thermostat
  • Plants - Yes, but I do not know what they are called but we searched them on this website and they were all safe
  • Placement - Next to bed. No. Around 4-5 feet
  • Location - Burien, Washington
Current Problem - Squirming all around and won't open eyes
Ok so right off your humidity is way too high which can cause a respiratory infection which would require a vet as antibiotics are required. Should be 30-40% daytime. Enclosure is too small and glass is not recommended when you are new to chameleons. Too hard to balance all of the needs in a glass cage and get proper air flow.
If you are using repticalcium with D3 then baby is in D3 overdose.

You can read about proper husbandry here. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
And I highly recommend neptune the chameleons youtube videos.

From the info you provided and the images this would be a vet visit and a total overhaul of enclosure set up.

@MissSkittles If you have any additional input... I am down with the flu.
 
Ok so right off your humidity is way too high which can cause a respiratory infection which would require a vet as antibiotics are required. Should be 30-40% daytime. Enclosure is too small and glass is not recommended when you are new to chameleons. Too hard to balance all of the needs in a glass cage and get proper air flow.
If you are using repticalcium with D3 then baby is in D3 overdose.

You can read about proper husbandry here. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
And I highly recommend neptune the chameleons youtube videos.

From the info you provided and the images this would be a vet visit and a total overhaul of enclosure set up.

@MissSkittles If you have any additional input... I am down with the flu.
I’m on my way out for a couple of hours, but I’ll be back and go thru everything in detail. We can help you get all of your husbandry corrected, which will help your little guy to recover, but he needs veterinary treatment asap or he won’t survive. I well understand and am sympathetic to difficulty in managing vet visits, but you need to find a way to make one happen. @Beman sorry you’re not feeling well. Chicken soup, lots of fluids and rest rest rest.
 
You said…”he is currently sleeping, his eyes are closed, but he's just digging around his cage”…so, it’s not night time when he’s doing this?
May be trying to escape the heat…if the cage is too hot.

Can you post a photo of the top of the cage so I can see the position of the lights and the type of lights you are using please?

You don’t use a vitamin powder to dust insects wih at all?
What do you gutload and feed the insects with…please be specific.

@Beman …hope you feel better soon.
 
I can give you feedback on your husbandry and how to make any corrections, but I can’t heal your little one. I’m hoping you’ve been brainstorming some ways to make a vet visit happen. I’ll break this into two parts to make things easier for both of us.
Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon Male, 5 months, since a baby This seems about right and your pics do confirm male colors/patterns and a tarsal spur.
  • Handling - 4-7 times a week Right now and until he gets completely better, put a hold on handling unless needed for medication/medical needs.
  • Feeding - Crickets and mealworms. 15-20 crickets. 2-3 mealworms. Once a day We sprinkle calcium on both mealworms and crickets Crickets are ok and the amount is good, but find another substitute for the mealworms. Silkworms are very nutritious and hydrating and one of my favorite feeders. I am attaching some graphics below to guide you. Many of the different types need to be ordered on line. Dubiaroaches.com and rainbowmealworms.com are a couple of great sources. Some have species specific variety packs which are great if you have only one animal. Additionally, you need to feed the insect feeders well and keep them as healthy as possible so that they will be nutritious. Avoid the cubes, jelly pots and other items commonly found in the chain pet stores. Fresh produce and a few select commercial diets are best. Do avoid kale and spinach as they contain oxalates which bind to calcium.
  • Supplements - Repti-calcium. We give him some every 2 days It’s essential to know if this contains vitamin D3 or not. Hopefully it does not, as that would be overdosing him. The easiest supplement schedule that we often suggest is to use a phosphorus-free calcium without D3 lightly dusted at every feeding. I put a tiny pinch in the bottom of a deli cup and let the feeders dust themselves as they move around. Then I suggest a combination multivitamin and D3 of either Repashy calcium plus LoD or Reptivite with D3. This you’ll use for one feeding either every other week or twice a month (whichever you prefer).
  • Watering - We have a mister. 2-3 times a day. Sometimes Sorry, but when it comes to chameleon husbandry, “sometimes” is usually not a good measure to use. For watering, there are a few different ways, but misting or spraying the plant leaves for at least 2 minutes twice a day (right before lights go on and off) is best and usually enough. If the urate (light part of the poos) is at least 50% orange or dark, you need to add more. This can be a dripper run for 15-20 minutes a day (poke a needle hole in a plastic cup or put a few ice cubes on top of the enclosure) or an additional misting/spraying. Never use a humidifier/fogger during the day. If your temps at night are at least 68 or below, this is when you can run a humidifier which does provide hydration similar to the fog in the wild.
  • Fecal Description - It's always brown and a separate poop is white. No Parasites are always a concern. There are some that are quite nasty and any of them, even the mildest type can prove fatal if left untreated. When you take your little guy to the vet, do take along a fresh poo sample. If you aren’t able to get one, ask the vet about dropping it off when you can get one without an additional office visit. Never treat for any parasites without having a fecal done first to determine what may be present.
  • History - No Where did you obtain him from?


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