Digging while sleeping
- Thread starter RamenL1f3
- Start date
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Cage Info:
You’ve already been given advice on where to find correct husbandry info, and even though I’ve told you of the changes needed and a quick summary of why, it’s always ideal for one to go thru and learn as much as you can. Do feel free to ask any questions you may have, especially if I haven’t been clear enough.
- Cage Type - Glass all around, screen on top. 22 inches length wise, 17 1/2 width As you’ve already been advised, an all screen enclosure is better for new keepers. It’s pretty easy to enclose the back or sides if needed, but with glass there’s no way to modify for your environment. Also, little veileds grow super quickly and before you know it, he’ll be a big guy and needing at least the minimum of a 2x2x4’ enclosure…like this one. https://www.petsmart.com/reptile/ha...reeze-open-air-reptile-screen-cage-14983.html (That’s a great price btw) I do have much more to say about your enclosure, but let me move on for now and address that a bit later.
- Lighting - I do not know but they are both zoom med, one is a heat lamp and the other is just a light. They are on all day but we turn them off at night It sounds like neither of these is the needed uvb. Without an effective uvb source, little one will not get any better and will continue to fail and eventually pass away. You need a linear T5 ho fixture with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. This is the one I suggest. https://www.lightyourreptiles.com/arcadia-pro-t5-fixture-6-bulb-22-5-sale-now-only-69-99/ I’m afraid the screw in lights aren’t effective at all and been probably one of the biggest causes of metabolic bone disease. Also, having tested one of the better off brands of uvb, the fixture is fine but the brand new bulb was dismal and worthless. Once you have the correct uvb, then you need to position a basking area about 8-9” below the light. No lights on at night and using an12 hour on/off schedule is best. Timers are pretty cheap and so helpful.
- Temperature - 70-80. I do not know. Zoo med thermostat Again, “I do not know” is not a good measurement when keeping a chameleon. I’m not being a jerk, but the life and well being of your animal depends on you knowing. The least accurate gauge is the analog dual thermometer/hygrometer. Much better to use a digital one with a wired probe end. Like this one. https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-digital-combo-reptile/dp/257703 For a young male, you want your basking temp at and no higher than 80.
- Humidity - 70-90. Water and heat lamp. Zoo-med thermostat This is wayyy too high. This needs to be between 30-50% during the day. If your little guy doesn’t already have a respiratory infection, he soon will from this. Heat plus high humidity = increased risks for respiratory infection. We want warm dry days and cool humid nights.
- Plants - Yes, but I do not know what they are called but we searched them on this website and they were all safe I do see primarily plastic plants and these need to go. Veileds do like to nibble their plants and it only takes one bite to cause a bowel obstruction. While there are several great plants to choose from that are safe, the humble pothos is perhaps the best. I do like to have a larger center plant, like a weeping fig tree, money plant or schefflera and then lots of pothos or philodendron around it. I dislike waste, so have been using my fake plants on the outside of the enclosures which gives my chameleons a sense of extra privacy.
- Placement - Next to bed. No. Around 4-5 feet Ok. Just remember that the higher above us they are, the safer they feel.
- Location - Burien, Washington
You’ve already been given advice on where to find correct husbandry info, and even though I’ve told you of the changes needed and a quick summary of why, it’s always ideal for one to go thru and learn as much as you can. Do feel free to ask any questions you may have, especially if I haven’t been clear enough.
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Yes, a safe amount when given properly one feeding every other week. He’s gotten overdosed on it.
This sounds like a neurological effect of either not enough or too much vitamin D3. While the full effects of each are different, they share many of the same symptoms and unfortunately the same eventual result of fatality if not corrected. Stop using the D3 immediately. It’s a fat soluble vitamin, meaning it isn’t quickly eliminated by the body and builds up. There really is no way to reduce the D3 other than time. Keeping him well hydrated will help some. Again, silkworms are great and hornworms are just little fat green bags of water. If he is having much muscle incoordination and falling, you may need to place him in a hospital bin to keep him safe from injury.
