Dubia Colony

Jakedn

New Member
Just got my roach colony from ColorCham, thought I'd show you guys my set up and get some feedback. Theres a few hundred in there, but they are all running from the light lol.

*NOTE* These dubias are not going to be fed off anytime soon, I am building up the colony a bit more, so disregard the dog food.
 

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you're right, roaches dont like light, and they dont like seeing large stuff around them,and glass is still cold even if you apply heat, i think you would be better off in a rubbermaid, mine is 16 w x17 t x 21 l , i would ditch the jumbled stuff and loosely stack vertically 5 or 6 eggflats parallel,they like thin spaces and will breed better that way, i have a 4"x9" screened hole in the top, and a 4 x6" screened hole at the top on each end, i use a reptitherm under tank 8 watt heater zoo med item rh-4) its heat output is barely enough, so there is no need to regulate, and i keep it under the end away from the food, keep a tablespoon of soaked water crystals in there ,and dont bug em any more than you have to, by the time the dog food is gone your colony should be on its way ,feed them mustard and collard greens, kale, fresh veggies of most sorts maybe a piece of dried fruit ,and a few grains of bee pollen , also you can dust some (not all ) of your veggies ,what isnt eaten, ends up all over them and stays for a suprisingly long time, feed them that for a week, and you are good to go , only keep enough food in there to last fifteen hrs and feed every 24 this discourages them from building up food in the egg flat part of the colony, (bad causes mold/cleaning problems) when you clean the cage every 60-90 days, do not clean out all of the poop, leave at least 2 tablespoons worth , the babies use it for their first food. also you can water from a sray bottle, so you dont have to meess wth the tray you can just place the food in there without a tray , they will drag it all over anyway.
 
you're right, roaches dont like light, and they dont like seeing large stuff around them,and glass is still cold even if you apply heat, i think you would be better off in a rubbermaid, mine is 16 w x17 t x 21 l , i would ditch the jumbled stuff and loosely stack vertically 5 or 6 eggflats parallel,they like thin spaces and will breed better that way, i have a 4"x9" screened hole in the top, and a 4 x6" screened hole at the top on each end, i use a reptitherm under tank 8 watt heater zoo med item rh-4) its heat output is barely enough, so there is no need to regulate, and i keep it under the end away from the food, keep a tablespoon of soaked water crystals in there ,and dont bug em any more than you have to, by the time the dog food is gone your colony should be on its way ,feed them mustard and collard greens, kale, fresh veggies of most sorts maybe a piece of dried fruit ,and a few grains of bee pollen , also you can dust some (not all ) of your veggies ,what isnt eaten, ends up all over them and stays for a suprisingly long time, feed them that for a week, and you are good to go , only keep enough food in there to last fifteen hrs and feed every 24 this discourages them from building up food in the egg flat part of the colony, (bad causes mold/cleaning problems) when you clean the cage every 60-90 days, do not clean out all of the poop, leave at least 2 tablespoons worth , the babies use it for their first food. also you can water from a sray bottle, so you dont have to meess wth the tray you can just place the food in there without a tray , they will drag it all over anyway.

Thank you for the great response. I actually planned on using a rubbermaid tub but then my mom got worried that the plastic would melt from the heat pad so she got me the glass tank. I taped dark construction paper around some of the sides to keep it dark and the tank itself is in the closet where it is always dark anyways. Looks like I may be ditching the trays and doing some reorganizing, thanks again for your advice.

-Jake
 
specific advice

jake, you and me live in Southern California
I've kept dubia for 5 years now as well as other feed roaches.

First: You do not need a heating pad.
Unless you're in the mountains where it'll snow and these are going to be exposed to below 60F tems
there's no need for any extra heating except to maybe in the winter if you keep them outdoors.
80% of our weather allows for breeding at a good rate
Only if you have a dozen insects would I bother with regulating tems at 90f to boost numbers.

Also, glass tanks are not required or recommended imo.
I found that a $5 storage keeper bin from target or walmart works very well.
keep the lid off or cut a big round hole into the lid to provide exchange (I keep mine open)
They're lighter, easier to handle, *do not break* if bumped around,
the insects do not get out of it them and they're easier to clean.
larger bins allow for better air exchange + the use of flat egg crates.
you don't need to keep them in the dark. they just want to hide a bit under the crates
anyway, they're kinda fun to watch.. so remove the construction paper
and keep things basic.

Also, you'll do better to not bother with a water tray, water crystals or gel.
too much water and wet droppings will provide a great habitat for fungus, fungus gnats/fruit flies
that will create a sick environment for you and the bugs. Don't be afraid to let things dry out.. they'll live.
mine have done very well with getting all their moisture out of the fruit peelings, leftover salad,
melon and whatever else I toss in there.. over ripe fruit = mana from heaven
bulk fruit (cheap stuff) is great... (pull out the rinds before they curl)
I rotate the flavors I feed the roaches so that the chams don't bite into the same tasting thing every week.
(last was cantaloupe, this week it's 50¢/lb peaches)
This is supplemented with a dry feed mix I make up using stuff from the bulk foods stores as a base (wheat bran/ soy flour)
it works wonders for a well gutloaded group of feeders and promotes a flux of breeding.
do not bother buying cricket mix or any other insect food -you're wasting money... use the soft fruit that you don't want.
I pour the dry feed onto the topmost dry egg crate and it's gone by morning.
keep it simple.
 
Last edited:
jake, you and me live in Southern California
You do not need a heating pad.
Unless you're in the mountains where it'll snow and these are going to be exposed to below 60F tems
there's no need for any extra heating except to maybe in the winter if you keep them outdoors.

Also, glass tanks are not required or recommended imo.
I found that a $5 storage keeper bin from target or walmart works very well.
keep the lid off or cut a big round hole into the lid to provide exchange
They're lighter, easier to handle, *do not break* if bumped around,
the insects do not get out of it them and they're easier to clean.
larger bins allow for better air exchange + the use of flat egg crates.
you don't need to keep them in the dark. they just want to hide a bit.
anyway, they're kinda fun to watch.

Also, you'll do better to not bother with a water tray, water crystals or gel.
too much water and wet droppings will provide a great habitat for fungus, fungus gnats/fruit flies
that will create a sick environment for you and the bugs.
mine have done very well with getting all their moisture out of the fruit peelings, leftover salad,
melon and whatever else I toss in there.
bulk fruit (cheap stuff) is great... (pull out the rinds before they curl)
I rotate the flavors I feed the roaches so that the chams don't bite into the same tasting thing every week.
(last was cantaloupe, this week it's 50¢/lb peaches)
This is supplemented with a dry feed mix I make up. it works wonders for a well gutloaded group
of feeders and promotes a flux of breeding. I pour the dry feed onto the topmost dry egg crate and it's gone by morning.


I was using the heating pad because I read that they like it to be 90 degrees, and it was only getting to like 80. And trust me I would have much rather used the plastic bin that I had all set up, but then my mom decided that a glass tank would be better and I didn't have a very good reason why not to other than the plastic tub is bigger and cheaper, so she won the argument anyway =\. So is 80 degrees fine for them? Should I return the heating pad?

Thanks for your advice,
Jake
 
Look just like mine except for the dog food and I also have a inferred heat lamp above it so it can be nice and hot for consistent breeding season :D
 
here's my setup, ill only end up having tops 700 in there, but eventually ill buy a big rubbermaid, but i dont have enough chams to need any more than 700.
just to give you an idea on what a good setup looks liek, the lights are on just so i could get a good pic.

7d571b43.jpg

ba8cc6d8.jpg
 
My temps are always at 90 to 110 depending on how hot it is outside and if I remember to turn my heat lamp off on the hot days never had a problem with heat killing them though.
 
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