Now to go over egg laying.
@kinyonga is the best to help you determine if your girl is egg bound or not and guide you. I’m just going to give you info about setting up the lay bin and generic details.
Before becoming ‘with egg’ or gravid, our lovely girls will put on their best and brightest colors and become very restless in their hunt for a handsome boy. For up to a few weeks, this is their obsession. After they calm down and return to their normal activity levels, they begin to get plump and even lumpy as the eggs are developing. Their colors will change and usually darken. Often the changes can be subtle. This first girl only had her dots darken when gravid.
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This girl has usually got just patterns, but got all bright when sneaking a peek at my male. Then she darkens all over and her patterns start to merge when gravid.
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Anywhere from about 30 days after her receptive period ends, she can be ready to lay eggs. If you are following the regimen to reduce laying/egg production, she may go thru the entire process (even gaining weight) but never lay. You need to be prepared though and keep a lay bin in her enclosure all the time, periodically checking to make sure it’s in good shape. My girls and seemingly some others prefer larger bins of at least 12” long and wide…deep too if possible. This is what I use and I fill it to about 5-6” deep with washed play sand. It needs to be kept moist enough to hold a tunnel without collapsing. To prevent it from becoming a bin of mud, you’ll want to drill some tiny drain holes in the bottom. Once the bin is set in place, it won’t leak sand. Make sure to provide a couple of stable ways in and out of the bin.
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One morning you won’t see your girl in her usual spot and will find she’s in her bin and digging! Try to make sure she doesn’t see you. You’ll want to cover the bottom half of your enclosure with a light sheet. I use an old one that I make peek holes in so I can monitor my girls without them seeing me. Hopefully you’ve got an automatic mister. If not, you can set some ice cubes on top of the enclosure (just not over the bin). Honestly though, I don’t think they are taking drink breaks. She may dig a few areas until she likes one. Then it’s dig dig dig, all the way to the bottom and usually along one of the sides of the bin. Then she’ll turn around with her head sticking out of the hole and start laying her eggs. Often the whole thing can take a couple of days and she may sleep in her tunnel or may return to her usual sleeping branch. You’ll know she’s done when all of her holes have been fully covered and she’s sitting in her usual basking spot, looking much thinner and quite dirty.
You’ll want to feed and hydrate her very well for the next 2-3 days. Silkworms and hornworms are perfect at this time. Then you return (or start) feeding her 3-4 feeders, 3 days a week plus treats and continue to maintain a basking temp no higher than 80.
My one girl stopped all egg production and laying for three years (until she passed). My other girl has been laying one clutch every year, except she has skipped this past year. I believe it was her continuously sneaking peaks at her forbidden boyfriend that triggered her laying. He passed right around the time of year that she usually has laid. She got to share stares with my new male while I was getting things set up so that may test the theory.
Always be alert for signs that something is wrong. When I switched my girls to bioactive and figured they didn’t need lay bins anymore, my girl spent a week very restless and digging in everything (including her foam wall) but rejecting it all, including a smaller bin of sand. It wasn’t until I put her old big lay bin in that she got right to work. Signs of trouble include not basking/ staying low in the enclosure, lethargy, not eating or drinking (often appetite is reduced as the eggs take up belly space), dropping eggs randomly, blood from anywhere and anything hanging out of the cloaca/vent (prolapse). Always go with your gut feelings too. It helps to know who your exotics vet who has good experience with chameleons is before needing them. It also helps to have an emergency vet fund and even better, pet insurance. With correct husbandry, the risks for egg problems is greatly decreased, but unfortunately is never zero.
I hope all of this has been of some help. Sorry that I talk so much.
Thanks for your help I truly appreciate forums like this and people like you both being there with so much assistance. Tomorrow I will be rearranging her den and replacing the ficcus that dropped leaves with another just like it and looking into a larger enclosure. I will keep y’all posted Happy new year!
Am I wrong? Anyhoo, I’m super excited now. I just had a crazy schedule for the holidays and you and miss skittles sure were there for me. Y’all probably think I’m crazy and I probably am. Lol I will update ya. 
