EMERGENCY
- Thread starter Layen
- Start date
Geez man i came here for help. i know i was off you dont gotta make me feel even more shitty, if your not gonna suggest anything go somewhere. Sorry i couldnt get it perfect the first time man fuck
BryanP
Avid Member
Maybe you missed it on the last page, what do you gut load the crickets with?
Zuccini, apples, and cucumbers whenever i have them, sometimes i dont gut load them
BryanP
Avid Member
When people were talking about that husbandry questionnaire what people do is copy/paste the text and fill in in red or below each bullet point.
That may help.
The gutloading (or not as the case may be) may be part of it.
How are you measuring humidity and what is the range?
Chase
Chameleon Enthusiast
Don’t take it personally. Some are more blunt than others.
All we can ask is that you take our suggestions and make changes
The 1st photo is that white poop stuff hardening on her butt that i have to keep cleaning, and the 2nd photo is just her. When i came home today she looks better than what she was a few days ago, a little fatter, and more alert. But she still isnt 100%
Ive also just realized something new, she will close her right eye but leave her left eye open, she does this randomly
Chase
Chameleon Enthusiast
Since you said gauge, I’m going to take it as being an analog thermometer and hygrometer. You need to get something digital because I’m going to guess temps and humidity are not correct. Here is a link to one that I like to use-http://www.lllreptile.com/products/12301-exo-terra-digital-thermometer-and-hygrometer-combo
Second- you need to switch out the UV light. CFL (the compact one you have) UV lights do a lot of damage to their eyes along with not giving correct levels of UV for them. Here is the type I’ve used for years: http://www.lllreptile.com/products/69-zoo-med-24-repti-sun-50-uvb-bulb
Third- you will need to get a different enclosure. The type you are using is not often suggested (I’m assuming it’s not an exo terra terrarium but correct me if I’m wrong)- we usually suggest mesh caging. The problem with them is they hold head quite well and they don’t provide good air flow. This causes an array of problems (no fluctuation of humidity, respiratory problems, etc).
fourth- can you show pictures of the powder you use for supplements? Your schedule is off and I’d like to see which one you’re currently using before making any suggestions for supplementation scheduling or additional supplementation you’ll need
Hope this helps!
Chase
Chase
Chameleon Enthusiast
Here is a thread I started years ago about the UV lights-
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/the-effects-of-cfls.143586/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/the-effects-of-cfls.143586/
BryanP
Avid Member
I'm curious as to what the perceived solution was that you've determined you're "good".
It's important to feed/gutload the insects. The stores rarely feed them properly and you want the insects to be healthy going into your chameleon.
Btw...what did you do with the eggs...they were likely fertile.
There are a number of things that could be wrong with the eye.
Could be a nutrient imbalance, the lights bothering her, infection, stuck shed in it, etc. (I'm not a vet ...what I say always comes from experiences and reading that I've done.)
The powder you show is not a calcium powder. Y ou should be dusting the insects at each feeding but one a week with a phos free calcium powder and on two of the remaining feedings dust with the reptivite you've shown in the photo. Dustings should be light.
What reptiles have you kept before?
Last edited:
Klyde O'Scope
Chameleon Enthusiast
Did you perchance forget to click Post reply? I know it's happened to me.
I've been through this thread a few times; the filled out form is not here.
You very well might not see any antagonism, chameleons are shy by nature, so it may not be happening when you're around, but if both are (near) breeding age, it's happening—hormones, pheromones, limbic system/"Lizard Brain"... all that. In the pic you posted (Post #11) the poor thing looks exhausted.
Analog (dial) thermometers and hygrometers are notoriously inaccurate; they can be as much as
20°/20% off. In contrast, digital hygrometers, thermometers (and combo units) usually have a margin of error of ±2°/2%.
That type of UVB is called a Compact Fluorescent Light (CFL) which is the kind I mentioned in Post #7. They were designed to be mounted horizontally—not vertically—and even then do not provide the strength of UVB needed for a chameleon. Each of your chameleons need its own enclosure with a linear T5HO UVB—either 5.0 or 6% (depending on brand). Here are 2 excellent articles explaining UVB lighting for reptiles—one shorter and one longer.
https://www.reptilesmagazine.com/reptile-lighting-information/
https://www.reptilesmagazine.com/an-in-depth-look-at-uv-light-and-its-proper-use-with-reptiles/
At this point with all that is going on with her, I think she needs to be seen by a herp vet.
If you don't have one, this link can help you find one near you:
https://arav.site-ym.com/search/custom.asp?id=3661
