Enclosure Help

A

amanda7igert

New Member
Hello, I am new here. My chameleon has been battling a respiratory infection and is being treated by a vet. However I now know that I accidentally caused this infection because his enclosure isn't what it should be. I am working everyday to make it better but my vet recommended that I come on here and ask for help.

My chameleon's name is Zuko and he's a very good boy, here are the details of his cage.
  • Your Chameleon - Ambilobe panther chameleon. I am not sure how old since I found him laying in the grass on my apartment property (we do not live in a place where they are wild so he either got away or was abandoned. He is at least a year old since I have had him for about that long.
  • Handling - Everyday, I am administering meds to him, he is very docile and doesn't seem to mind being handled.
  • Feeding - He gets 4 -5 crickets and 2 - 3 superworms every other day. I feed the crickets every two-ish days. I give them veggies such as carrots and zucchini, lettuce, and sweet potato.
  • Supplements - They are dusted with Fluckers Calcium with no Vitamin D. Every other Friday he gets Repashy calcium with low vitamin D and once a month he gets Retocal calcium with vitamin D. He always get bee pollen.
  • Watering - He has a mister that goes off in the morning before his lights go on and at night right after his lights are turned off. I mist for about 3 - 5 minutes depending on humidity. I watch it climb to about 65% - 70% and then turn it off and turn on his foggers. I see him drinking usually at night.
  • Fecal Description - Brown with white at the top. Perfect consistency, not too runny or hard.
  • History - I found Zuko on my property at work and he wasn't in great shape. I got him back to healthy and then because I was a novice I had his fogger on during the day to increase humidity and he ended up getting a respiratory infection.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen cage 24x24x48
  • Lighting - ZooMed 5.0 UVB bulbs. Two I have one that is 12" and one that is 24"
  • Temperature - About 80 degrees at the top and 72 degrees at the bottom. Lowest overnight temp is 65 - 72 degrees. I have two thermometers in his enclosure with one hygrometer towards the bottom of the enclosure to measure humidity.
  • Humidity - It about 40% at the top and 70% at the bottom during the day. I create these levels via fogger and mister at night and early in the morning. I have a hygrometer in the enclosure to measure humidity.
  • Plants - I have two pothos along with two money trees and a ficus tree in his enclosure. I may have accidentally killed the ficus tree, tbh I don't really have a green thumb.
  • Placement - My enclosure is in the kitchen off the ground on a stand. I have a fan pointed in his direction for better air flow.
  • Location - I am in Nevada, so it is very dry all the time here.

Current Problem - He is battling a respiratory infection and I am trying to build a better enclosure for him.
I am apart of a Chameleon group on Facebook as well and someone once said they saw A LOT wrong with my enclosure, they told me to DM them with details but they've never responded so if I am doing something wrong I am still in the dark about it. I would LOVE constructive criticism and help. This is my first chameleon and I am doing my best, I know I need to do better and I plan to which is why I am reaching out for help.
 

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Welcome to the group! There are a lot of great people here ready and willing to help. First off it would be great if you can go to the health clinic forum and at the top you will see some pinned items. Copy and paste the “how to ask for help” form here with your answers. Be as specific and detailed as you can and someone with experience will go over the form with you. They’ll give you lots of ideas and tips and tricks on how you can improve the enclosure to help your Cham to live his or her best life.
 
One thing I do see in the picture is, it looks like you have a bunch of sphagnum moss in the bottom of his cage. If that is what that is then it needs to come out right away because it can harbor bacteria and can pose an impaction risk if the Cham decides to taste it. I was just recently made aware of this a couple weeks ago because I to struggle with humidity in my chams cage at night and wanted to try it.
 
These people evidently aren’t on tonight and I’m not sure who else to tag in. If no one gets back to you tonight then hang in there, there will be more people on tomorrow.
 
Welcome on here! Do you have any pics of him? When he went to the vet, did they do a fecal, any blood tests, or any x-rays? Give me a minute to finish up some things and go more through your form, thanks (and thank you for rescuing him)!
 
My feedback and any questions will be in red. I've also posted helpful links and photos below:

Hello, I am new here. My chameleon has been battling a respiratory infection and is being treated by a vet. However I now know that I accidentally caused this infection because his enclosure isn't what it should be. I am working everyday to make it better but my vet recommended that I come on here and ask for help.

My chameleon's name is Zuko and he's a very good boy, here are the details of his cage.
  • Your Chameleon - Ambilobe panther chameleon. I am not sure how old since I found him laying in the grass on my apartment property (we do not live in a place where they are wild so he either got away or was abandoned. He is at least a year old since I have had him for about that long.
  • Handling - Everyday, I am administering meds to him, he is very docile and doesn't seem to mind being handled. What are the exact meds and dose strengths?
  • Feeding - He gets 4 -5 crickets and 2 - 3 superworms every other day. I feed the crickets every two-ish days. I give them veggies such as carrots and zucchini, lettuce, and sweet potato. At his age, around 4-5 crickets 3x a week is good (or the equivalent amount in other types of feeders; if he starts to get chunky, reduce the amount of feeders). Superworms are treat bugs only, not good as staples. I've attached both feeder variety and gutload charts below (variety is best for both!). Using as many ingredients as possible from the gutload list (in the correct ratios) will give him the most nutrition possible!
  • Supplements - They are dusted with Fluckers Calcium with no Vitamin D. Every other Friday he gets Repashy calcium with low vitamin D and once a month he gets Retocal calcium with vitamin D. He always get bee pollen. Which Fluker's and which Repashy supplements do you use? If it is the Fluker's Phosphorus-Free Calcium Without D3, you'll use that every feeding. If it is Repashy's Calcium Plus LoD, you'll use that once every two weeks. No other supplements, just those two (besides adding the bee pollen, that's fine).
  • Watering - He has a mister that goes off in the morning before his lights go on and at night right after his lights are turned off. I mist for about 3 - 5 minutes depending on humidity. I watch it climb to about 65% - 70% and then turn it off and turn on his foggers. I see him drinking usually at night. Is the fogger cool-mist? You only want to fog during the coldest parts of the night (only if the night temps are max 67*F, but preferably 65*F or lower only) and not have the fogger come on until at least a couple of hours after lights on and stop at least a couple of hours before lights on. You need to replace the crinkly tubing that the fogger has with either PVC pipe or vinyl tubing for it to be more sanitary. How often do you clean the fogger and tubes?
  • Fecal Description - Brown with white at the top. Perfect consistency, not too runny or hard. Has it ever been tested?
  • History - I found Zuko on my property at work and he wasn't in great shape. I got him back to healthy and then because I was a novice I had his fogger on during the day to increase humidity and he ended up getting a respiratory infection.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen cage 24x24x48 You'll want to take out the moss vine, add leaf litter over the moss and substrate, and add some more branches and plants/plant cover.
  • Lighting - ZooMed 5.0 UVB bulbs. Two I have one that is 12" and one that is 24" You only need the 24" bulb. Are the fixture and bulb T8 or T5 HO, and what's the age of the bulb and distance from the UVB bulb to his basking branch?
  • Temperature - About 80 degrees at the top and 72 degrees at the bottom. Lowest overnight temp is 65 - 72 degrees. I have two thermometers in his enclosure with one hygrometer towards the bottom of the enclosure to measure humidity. Basking can be around 85*F. You want to measure his basking temps with a digital thermometer with a probe, with the probe placed where the top of his back is when he's on his basking branch for the most accurate temps. Are the thermometers digital or analog?
  • Humidity - It about 40% at the top and 70% at the bottom during the day. I create these levels via fogger and mister at night and early in the morning. I have a hygrometer in the enclosure to measure humidity. Is the hygrometer digital or analog?
  • Plants - I have two pothos along with two money trees and a ficus tree in his enclosure. I may have accidentally killed the ficus tree, tbh I don't really have a green thumb.
  • Placement - My enclosure is in the kitchen off the ground on a stand. I have a fan pointed in his direction for better air flow.
  • Location - I am in Nevada, so it is very dry all the time here.

Current Problem - He is battling a respiratory infection and I am trying to build a better enclosure for him.
I am apart of a Chameleon group on Facebook as well and someone once said they saw A LOT wrong with my enclosure, they told me to DM them with details but they've never responded so if I am doing something wrong I am still in the dark about it. I would LOVE constructive criticism and help. This is my first chameleon and I am doing my best, I know I need to do better and I plan to which is why I am reaching out for help. Some chameleon FB groups can be very harsh, your set-up and care only needs a little tweaking!

Here's some helpful links and images to have on hand!
 

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Hi @amanda7igert, welcome. @ERKleRose is awesome and I agree with all the advice she gave. @Lindasjackson is right in about the moss. Did you put in your enclosure to help keep the humidity levels? Depending on the part of NV you are in it can be so hot and dry. If you are looking to have the same effect without the bacteria risk, going bio active could be a good choice.

What are the temps when you fog? This could be a factor in the respiratory infection. It’s better to fog when temps are under 68. Having a fan running is a great solution for air flow. If you don’t have central cooling you may need a solution to cool the air before running the fogger. That along with bacteria from the moss in the air could maybe be a part of the issue. That’s my guess.

Did vet say what they think the contributing factors are?
 
ERKleRose said:
My feedback and any questions will be in red. I've also posted helpful links and photos below:

Hello, I am new here. My chameleon has been battling a respiratory infection and is being treated by a vet. However I now know that I accidentally caused this infection because his enclosure isn't what it should be. I am working everyday to make it better but my vet recommended that I come on here and ask for help.

My chameleon's name is Zuko and he's a very good boy, here are the details of his cage.
  • Your Chameleon - Ambilobe panther chameleon. I am not sure how old since I found him laying in the grass on my apartment property (we do not live in a place where they are wild so he either got away or was abandoned. He is at least a year old since I have had him for about that long.
  • Handling - Everyday, I am administering meds to him, he is very docile and doesn't seem to mind being handled. What are the exact meds and dose strengths?
  • Feeding - He gets 4 -5 crickets and 2 - 3 superworms every other day. I feed the crickets every two-ish days. I give them veggies such as carrots and zucchini, lettuce, and sweet potato. At his age, around 4-5 crickets 3x a week is good (or the equivalent amount in other types of feeders; if he starts to get chunky, reduce the amount of feeders). Superworms are treat bugs only, not good as staples. I've attached both feeder variety and gutload charts below (variety is best for both!). Using as many ingredients as possible from the gutload list (in the correct ratios) will give him the most nutrition possible!
  • Supplements - They are dusted with Fluckers Calcium with no Vitamin D. Every other Friday he gets Repashy calcium with low vitamin D and once a month he gets Retocal calcium with vitamin D. He always get bee pollen. Which Fluker's and which Repashy supplements do you use? If it is the Fluker's Phosphorus-Free Calcium Without D3, you'll use that every feeding. If it is Repashy's Calcium Plus LoD, you'll use that once every two weeks. No other supplements, just those two (besides adding the bee pollen, that's fine).
  • Watering - He has a mister that goes off in the morning before his lights go on and at night right after his lights are turned off. I mist for about 3 - 5 minutes depending on humidity. I watch it climb to about 65% - 70% and then turn it off and turn on his foggers. I see him drinking usually at night. Is the fogger cool-mist? You only want to fog during the coldest parts of the night (only if the night temps are max 67*F, but preferably 65*F or lower only) and not have the fogger come on until at least a couple of hours after lights on and stop at least a couple of hours before lights on. You need to replace the crinkly tubing that the fogger has with either PVC pipe or vinyl tubing for it to be more sanitary. How often do you clean the fogger and tubes?
  • Fecal Description - Brown with white at the top. Perfect consistency, not too runny or hard. Has it ever been tested?
  • History - I found Zuko on my property at work and he wasn't in great shape. I got him back to healthy and then because I was a novice I had his fogger on during the day to increase humidity and he ended up getting a respiratory infection.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen cage 24x24x48 You'll want to take out the moss vine, add leaf litter over the moss and substrate, and add some more branches and plants/plant cover.
  • Lighting - ZooMed 5.0 UVB bulbs. Two I have one that is 12" and one that is 24" You only need the 24" bulb. Are the fixture and bulb T8 or T5 HO, and what's the age of the bulb and distance from the UVB bulb to his basking branch?
  • Temperature - About 80 degrees at the top and 72 degrees at the bottom. Lowest overnight temp is 65 - 72 degrees. I have two thermometers in his enclosure with one hygrometer towards the bottom of the enclosure to measure humidity. Basking can be around 85*F. You want to measure his basking temps with a digital thermometer with a probe, with the probe placed where the top of his back is when he's on his basking branch for the most accurate temps. Are the thermometers digital or analog?
  • Humidity - It about 40% at the top and 70% at the bottom during the day. I create these levels via fogger and mister at night and early in the morning. I have a hygrometer in the enclosure to measure humidity. Is the hygrometer digital or analog?
  • Plants - I have two pothos along with two money trees and a ficus tree in his enclosure. I may have accidentally killed the ficus tree, tbh I don't really have a green thumb.
  • Placement - My enclosure is in the kitchen off the ground on a stand. I have a fan pointed in his direction for better air flow.
  • Location - I am in Nevada, so it is very dry all the time here.

Current Problem - He is battling a respiratory infection and I am trying to build a better enclosure for him.
I am apart of a Chameleon group on Facebook as well and someone once said they saw A LOT wrong with my enclosure, they told me to DM them with details but they've never responded so if I am doing something wrong I am still in the dark about it. I would LOVE constructive criticism and help. This is my first chameleon and I am doing my best, I know I need to do better and I plan to which is why I am reaching out for help. Some chameleon FB groups can be very harsh, your set-up and care only needs a little tweaking!

Here's some helpful links and images to have on hand!
Click to expand...

Lindasjackson said:
One thing I do see in the picture is, it looks like you have a bunch of sphagnum moss in the bottom of his cage. If that is what that is then it needs to come out right away because it can harbor bacteria and can pose an impaction risk if the Cham decides to taste it. I was just recently made aware of this a couple weeks ago because I to struggle with humidity in my chams cage at night and wanted to try it.
Click to expand...
Yeah I had it in for humidity, but I can also take it out.
 
summerseeking said:
Hi @amanda7igert, welcome. @ERKleRose is awesome and I agree with all the advice she gave. @Lindasjackson is right in about the moss. Did you put in your enclosure to help keep the humidity levels? Depending on the part of NV you are in it can be so hot and dry. If you are looking to have the same effect without the bacteria risk, going bio active could be a good choice.

What are the temps when you fog? This could be a factor in the respiratory infection. It’s better to fog when temps are under 68. Having a fan running is a great solution for air flow. If you don’t have central cooling you may need a solution to cool the air before running the fogger. That along with bacteria from the moss in the air could maybe be a part of the issue. That’s my guess.

Did vet say what they think the contributing factors are
Click to expand...
Thank you!! I went bioactive and the kit that I had bought came with the moss and said I should use it so I did. The Bioactive enclosure hold humidity very well.

The temp gets around 70 to 72ish degrees when I fog/mist. I will get rid of the moss to get rid of bacteria.

The vet thought the issue was that I was running the fogger during the day with his basking lamp on. I had no idea I wasn't supposed to do that. Someone in the FB group that I am apart of told me it's not a good idea but when I asked about it they didn't respond. I have since ceased using the fogger during the day.
 
amanda7igert said:
Thank you!! I went bioactive and the kit that I had bought came with the moss and said I should use it so I did. The Bioactive enclosure hold humidity very well.

The temp gets around 70 to 72ish degrees when I fog/mist. I will get rid of the moss to get rid of bacteria.

The vet thought the issue was that I was running the fogger during the day with his basking lamp on. I had no idea I wasn't supposed to do that. Someone in the FB group that I am apart of told me it's not a good idea but when I asked about it they didn't respond. I have since ceased using the fogger during the day.
Click to expand...
You don't need to take out the moss as long as he doesn't go exploring and digging around on the bottom, just add a layer of leaf litter over it. Yup, fogging only at night and only if the temps are 67*F or lower (preferably 65*F or lower though).
 
ERKleRose said:
My feedback and any questions will be in red. I've also posted helpful links and photos below:

Hello, I am new here. My chameleon has been battling a respiratory infection and is being treated by a vet. However I now know that I accidentally caused this infection because his enclosure isn't what it should be. I am working everyday to make it better but my vet recommended that I come on here and ask for help.

My chameleon's name is Zuko and he's a very good boy, here are the details of his cage.
  • Your Chameleon - Ambilobe panther chameleon. I am not sure how old since I found him laying in the grass on my apartment property (we do not live in a place where they are wild so he either got away or was abandoned. He is at least a year old since I have had him for about that long.
  • Handling - Everyday, I am administering meds to him, he is very docile and doesn't seem to mind being handled. What are the exact meds and dose strengths?
  • Feeding - He gets 4 -5 crickets and 2 - 3 superworms every other day. I feed the crickets every two-ish days. I give them veggies such as carrots and zucchini, lettuce, and sweet potato. At his age, around 4-5 crickets 3x a week is good (or the equivalent amount in other types of feeders; if he starts to get chunky, reduce the amount of feeders). Superworms are treat bugs only, not good as staples. I've attached both feeder variety and gutload charts below (variety is best for both!). Using as many ingredients as possible from the gutload list (in the correct ratios) will give him the most nutrition possible!
  • Supplements - They are dusted with Fluckers Calcium with no Vitamin D. Every other Friday he gets Repashy calcium with low vitamin D and once a month he gets Retocal calcium with vitamin D. He always get bee pollen. Which Fluker's and which Repashy supplements do you use? If it is the Fluker's Phosphorus-Free Calcium Without D3, you'll use that every feeding. If it is Repashy's Calcium Plus LoD, you'll use that once every two weeks. No other supplements, just those two (besides adding the bee pollen, that's fine).
  • Watering - He has a mister that goes off in the morning before his lights go on and at night right after his lights are turned off. I mist for about 3 - 5 minutes depending on humidity. I watch it climb to about 65% - 70% and then turn it off and turn on his foggers. I see him drinking usually at night. Is the fogger cool-mist? You only want to fog during the coldest parts of the night (only if the night temps are max 67*F, but preferably 65*F or lower only) and not have the fogger come on until at least a couple of hours after lights on and stop at least a couple of hours before lights on. You need to replace the crinkly tubing that the fogger has with either PVC pipe or vinyl tubing for it to be more sanitary. How often do you clean the fogger and tubes?
  • Fecal Description - Brown with white at the top. Perfect consistency, not too runny or hard. Has it ever been tested?
  • History - I found Zuko on my property at work and he wasn't in great shape. I got him back to healthy and then because I was a novice I had his fogger on during the day to increase humidity and he ended up getting a respiratory infection.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen cage 24x24x48 You'll want to take out the moss vine, add leaf litter over the moss and substrate, and add some more branches and plants/plant cover.
  • Lighting - ZooMed 5.0 UVB bulbs. Two I have one that is 12" and one that is 24" You only need the 24" bulb. Are the fixture and bulb T8 or T5 HO, and what's the age of the bulb and distance from the UVB bulb to his basking branch?
  • Temperature - About 80 degrees at the top and 72 degrees at the bottom. Lowest overnight temp is 65 - 72 degrees. I have two thermometers in his enclosure with one hygrometer towards the bottom of the enclosure to measure humidity. Basking can be around 85*F. You want to measure his basking temps with a digital thermometer with a probe, with the probe placed where the top of his back is when he's on his basking branch for the most accurate temps. Are the thermometers digital or analog?
  • Humidity - It about 40% at the top and 70% at the bottom during the day. I create these levels via fogger and mister at night and early in the morning. I have a hygrometer in the enclosure to measure humidity. Is the hygrometer digital or analog?
  • Plants - I have two pothos along with two money trees and a ficus tree in his enclosure. I may have accidentally killed the ficus tree, tbh I don't really have a green thumb.
  • Placement - My enclosure is in the kitchen off the ground on a stand. I have a fan pointed in his direction for better air flow.
  • Location - I am in Nevada, so it is very dry all the time here.

Current Problem - He is battling a respiratory infection and I am trying to build a better enclosure for him.
I am apart of a Chameleon group on Facebook as well and someone once said they saw A LOT wrong with my enclosure, they told me to DM them with details but they've never responded so if I am doing something wrong I am still in the dark about it. I would LOVE constructive criticism and help. This is my first chameleon and I am doing my best, I know I need to do better and I plan to which is why I am reaching out for help. Some chameleon FB groups can be very harsh, your set-up and care only needs a little tweaking!

Here's some helpful links and images to have on hand!
Click to expand...
I genuinely appreciate all the time you took to respond!
I'll answer your questions in order!
I give him an antibiotic, doxyciline at night about 0.03mls. and artificial tears to help with some eye problems he was having.
I was not using the phosphorus free Fluckers but I will certainly look into buying it!!
Thank you for the advice on the foggers. I cleaned it about every three months or so? The fogger is cool mist.
His bowels have not been tested yet but he did just have a blood test done along with xrays so I'm not too worried.
All of his meters are analog, should I look into digital ones?
Thank you for your last comment, I was feeling really bad because I know I accidentally caused his infection and when the person told me I had A LOT wrong with my enclosure I felt so guilty; I immediately did research and I didn't think I was THAT far off so it's nice to hear someone tell me I'm not completely incompetent.
 
It’s a learning process when you get a chameleon. It’s a lot to learn and take in. Ask any questions you think of and we are all here to help. You’re doing the right thing and trying to do better. That’s the best thing you can do!
 
amanda7igert said:
I genuinely appreciate all the time you took to respond!
I'll answer your questions in order!
I give him an antibiotic, doxyciline at night about 0.03mls. and artificial tears to help with some eye problems he was having.
I was not using the phosphorus free Fluckers but I will certainly look into buying it!!
Thank you for the advice on the foggers. I cleaned it about every three months or so? The fogger is cool mist.
His bowels have not been tested yet but he did just have a blood test done along with xrays so I'm not too worried.
All of his meters are analog, should I look into digital ones?
Thank you for your last comment, I was feeling really bad because I know I accidentally caused his infection and when the person told me I had A LOT wrong with my enclosure I felt so guilty; I immediately did research and I didn't think I was THAT far off so it's nice to hear someone tell me I'm not completely incompetent.
Click to expand...
No problem, we're here to help!
  • @kinyonga do those meds sound right?
  • You need a phosphorus-free calcium without D3 ASAP to use for every feeding. Feeders are high in phosphorus, which is why we supplement with straight (phosphorus-free) calcium to balance out the ratio. Is your Repashy the Calcium Plus LoD one?
  • Cleaning it more often will be beneficial (I clean mine- tubes and everything- thoroughly and properly once a week), along with replacing the crinkly tubes with either PVC pipe or vinyl tubing. With straight pipes/tubing, there's less areas for bacteria to get trapped in.
  • Bringing in a fresh poop and urate of his to get tested wouldn't hurt. It checks for parasites
  • Yes, you need all digital, no analog. I have a digital thermometer with a probe for basking (the probe placed where the top of my chams' backs are when they're on their basking branches- it's the most accurate) and three digital thermometer-hygrometer combos for humidity and other temps (one placed up top near basking, one in the middle, and one near the bottom)
As @Lindasjackson said, you're researching, learning, and fixing, which is all we can ask!
Do you have isopods and springtails in the soil?
 
amanda7igert said:
Thank you!! I went bioactive and the kit that I had bought came with the moss and said I should use it so I did. The Bioactive enclosure hold humidity very well.

The temp gets around 70 to 72ish degrees when I fog/mist. I will get rid of the moss to get rid of bacteria.

The vet thought the issue was that I was running the fogger during the day with his basking lamp on. I had no idea I wasn't supposed to do that. Someone in the FB group that I am apart of told me it's not a good idea but when I asked about it they didn't respond. I have since ceased using the fogger during the day.
Click to expand...

Ooooh I see what’s happening. The moss is great for holding moisture. I have it in my bioactive setup but it’s mixed into my soil. It becomes one of the components of you substrate mix. I would say keep it, but mix it into your soil. Maybe not all of it tho. It looks like you have a lot but it’s hard to tell.

Great job stopping the day time fogging. Fogging at 70 may also be a bit high but if you have air flow, which you do, it should be ok.

People have different thoughts about what temps are ok for the fogger. It gets confusing. I wait until I’m at at least 68 just to be safe…would rather be overly cautious.
 
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