Eye health - The SOLUTION!!! - Experienced keepers please share your WISDOM!!!

[Matt Vanilla Gorilla]

Ok, so, we have soooo many experienced chameleon keepers here on this forum, and yet, I see people posting nearly every day with the thread title reading something like this: "please help, chameleon with eye problem", or "chameleon not opening eyes, not eating, please help", etc. .........!

The answers are always quite the same: proper lighting, temperatures, humidity and hydration, a good supliment schedule and high quality propper gutloaded feeders. But what does this all mean! People need specifics! Without it, the problem will prevail!

I am calling all experienced keepers and breeders to join me and work together at compiling all the information possible to help all our forum members prevent this devastating, high mortality rate problem from killing so many of our precious pets! There must be people on here who have kept chameleons for many years and hardly ever have chameleons with eye probems. Or people who always reverse eye conditions in their chameleons without them ending up dead!

So, please, if you do not have knowledge, experience and wisdom to share just read and learn, please do not clutter this thread up with arguments and junk! Let's keep this thread serious and on track! On the other hand if you know any vital, eye/life saving secrets, please speak up and let's revolutionize the quality of life of our incredible chameleon children!

Experienced Gurus let me hear your wisdom!

Please?

 

[Carlton]

A big part of the problem with eye issues is eliminating what ISN'T wrong. Chams close their eyes for all sorts of reasons some of which have little to do with the EYE itself. Eye problems can be a symptom (along with others) of systemic trouble, so trying to treat the eye won't really solve anything. Maybe a way to organize our thoughts would be to create a "decision tree" to help a cham owner narrow down the possibilities before asking for help. Basically, a way to ask the questions we end up asking over and over again hundreds of times. What do you think?

 

[Matt Vanilla Gorilla]

A big part of the problem with eye issues is eliminating what ISN'T wrong. Chams close their eyes for all sorts of reasons some of which have little to do with the EYE itself. Eye problems can be a symptom (along with others) of systemic trouble, so trying to treat the eye won't really solve anything. Maybe a way to organize our thoughts would be to create a "decision tree" to help a cham owner narrow down the possibilities before asking for help. Basically, a way to ask the questions we end up asking over and over again hundreds of times. What do you think?

A! Wisdom! Thanks! Keep it comming!

 

[jajeanpierre]

Misting. They need mist to clean their eyes and most chameleons want a fine mist like a fog. Hand misting doesn't cut it. I really believe an automatic misting system that can run for three or four minutes at a time is a necessary piece of equipment.

 

[Matt Vanilla Gorilla]

Misting. They need mist to clean their eyes and most chameleons want a fine mist like a fog. Hand misting doesn't cut it. I really believe an automatic misting system that can run for three or four minutes at a time is a necessary piece of equipment.

Thanks, I think you are correct!

 

[JaxyGirl]

My answer is Vitamin A deficiency. There isn't enough vitamin A in captive raised feeders in order to sustain the vitamin A needs of a chameleon. Even gutloaded feeders don't contain the vitamin A that is needed to sustain the health of a chameleon. I belive that the amount of vitamin A a chameleon needs is severely under estimated.
There was a bad study regarding Vitamin A and its effects on Chameleons that Vitamin A has virtually been stricken from a chameleons diet.
Vitamin A is the primary vitamin needed for healthy eyes in all animals including humans. There have been studies that Chameleons can not convert the Beta Carotene Vitamin A found in fruits (proformed vitamin A) into useable vitamin A (preformed Vitamin A) Most vitamin dusts contain only vitamin A from beta carotene and it is usually a small amount. And if a vitamin supplement does contain Preformed Vitamin A it is just minimal. However the fear of overdosing Vita A has left a major of chams severely deficient and it seems that it becomes prominate at around 9 months to a year of age.

Usually by the time we notice that our Chameleons has a vitamin A deficiency the illness has progressed to the point where it becomes critical. Chams are good at hiding their health issues. First it starts with dryness and light sensitivity in one eye. So the Cham starts rubbing its eye on branches in the cage because it feels irritated and itchy. A lot of times when this happens people will also notice that the chams tongue becomes weak and doesn't shoot out as far. This is because vitamin A deficiency can also mimic MBD and cause muscle weakness. Because the Cham is rubbing its eye on branches in its cage it further irritates the eye allowing bacteria to enter they eye which causes conjunctivitis. By now either the owner is putting over the counter eye drops made for humans into their chams eyes or they take it to the vet who promptly puts the Cham on antibiotics and eye ointment. Soon the owner probably notices their Cham isnt getting any better. Meanwhile the other eye might become infected because the bacteria infection has spread. Chances are by this time the Cham stops eating and drinking which leads to dehydration. By now the Cham starts to show other symptoms which is usually interpreted as MBD so the Cham is put on heavy doses of Calcium and D3 along with a different antibiotic. This eventually leads to starvation, kidney problems, renal failure and finally death. Most of this could have been prevented if the Cham got the correct amount of vitamin A in its diet to begin with. Unfortunately, very few veterinarians haven't concluded that when the Cham is treated for an eye infection it should also be supplemented with Preformed vitamin A in order to treat the infection and the underlying vitamin A deficiency. I've also read posts where the vet did prescribe a vitamin A supplement but the owner refused to give it because they know better then their vet due to the unfounded fear of vitamin A toxicity. Either way it's a simple solution that could have prevented the death of another Cham.

 

[Matt Vanilla Gorilla]

My answer is Vitamin A deficiency. There isn't enough vitamin A in captive raised feeders in order to sustain the vitamin A needs of a chameleon. Even gutloaded feeders don't contain the vitamin A that is needed to sustain the health of a chameleon. I belive that the amount of vitamin A a chameleon needs is severely under estimated.
There was a bad study regarding Vitamin A and its effects on Chameleons that Vitamin A has virtually been stricken from a chameleons diet.
Vitamin A is the primary vitamin needed for healthy eyes in all animals including humans. There have been studies that Chameleons can not convert the Beta Carotene Vitamin A found in fruits (proformed vitamin A) into useable vitamin A (preformed Vitamin A) Most vitamin dusts contain only vitamin A from beta carotene and it is usually a small amount. And if a vitamin supplement does contain Preformed Vitamin A it is just minimal. However the fear of overdosing Vita A has left a major of chams severely deficient and it seems that it becomes prominate at around 9 months to a year of age.

Usually by the time we notice that our Chameleons has a vitamin A deficiency the illness has progressed to the point where it becomes critical. Chams are good at hiding their health issues. First it starts with dryness and light sensitivity in one eye. So the Cham starts rubbing its eye on branches in the cage because it feels irritated and itchy. A lot of times when this happens people will also notice that the chams tongue becomes weak and doesn't shoot out as far. This is because vitamin A deficiency can also mimic MBD and cause muscle weakness. Because the Cham is rubbing its eye on branches in its cage it further irritates the eye allowing bacteria to enter they eye which causes conjunctivitis. By now either the owner is putting over the counter eye drops made for humans into their chams eyes or they take it to the vet who promptly puts the Cham on antibiotics and eye ointment. Soon the owner probably notices their Cham isnt getting any better. Meanwhile the other eye might become infected because the bacteria infection has spread. Chances are by this time the Cham stops eating and drinking which leads to dehydration. By now the Cham starts to show other symptoms which is usually interpreted as MBD so the Cham is put on heavy doses of Calcium and D3 along with a different antibiotic. This eventually leads to starvation, kidney problems, renal failure and finally death. Most of this could have been prevented if the Cham got the correct amount of vitamin A in its diet to begin with. Unfortunately, very few veterinarians haven't concluded that when the Cham is treated for an eye infection it should also be supplemented with Preformed vitamin A in order to treat the infection and the underlying vitamin A deficiency. I've also read posts where the vet did prescribe a vitamin A supplement but the owner refused to give it because they know better then their vet due to the unfounded fear of vitamin A toxicity. Either way it's a simple solution that could have prevented the death of another Cham.

Thanks! I agree, Vitamin A plays a massive role in eye health!

 

[JaxyGirl]

A big part of the problem with eye issues is eliminating what ISN'T wrong. Chams close their eyes for all sorts of reasons some of which have little to do with the EYE itself. Eye problems can be a symptom (along with others) of systemic trouble, so trying to treat the eye won't really solve anything. Maybe a way to organize our thoughts would be to create a "decision tree" to help a cham owner narrow down the possibilities before asking for help. Basically, a way to ask the questions we end up asking over and over again hundreds of times. What do you think?

I think that would be a great idea if it could be done. There could be a symptom checker like WebMD

 

[jannb]

As Carlton said chameleons close their eyes for many different reasons. Sometime they actually have a problem with their eyes and sometimes they have other illnesses and close their eyes because they don't feel well. I am very lucky to have expert chameleon vets that can narrow the problem usually very quickly. I've had chameleons that actually had an injury to the the eye. One was so bad his eye had to be amputated. Normally with an injury only one eye is closed. I've had two chameleon, sister and brother that had a weak eye muscle and often closed one eye. This was thought to be genetic and my young female I had to excercise the eye muscle and the male was older when he came to me and his eye had been that way for so long there was no way to correct it so he's now blind in one eye. I had an older panther that got cataracts in one eye. I also had a panther with an eye infection in one eye. We had a melleri with eye infections in both eyes. We also once had a panther with an RI and he closed both of his eyes for a few days before the antibiotics kicked in. My female parsons started closing her eyes the day before she passed two week post surgery to remove eggs that she couldn't lay and her ovaries were also removed. I also had a female veiled that closed her eyes before passing and a female panther do the same. My male graceful had a super bad mouth infection that we had been treating for months and he also started closing his eyes the day before he passed. However the thing I see the most here is closed eyes due to UVB lights especially if the lights are new. Babies often have a hard time with the stronger UV that the new bulbs put out. Even though the coil bulbs are suppose to be "fixed" I still know experienced keeper that have problems and I see members here that we tell to turn the UVB light off and once they do the eyes open. Never have we had a Vit. A deficiency problem. My vet has never even mentioned seeing Vit. A deficiency problems in chameleons eyes. However I often tell people here if they thing it could be Vit. A deficiency a safe way to provide Vit. A is to use Reptivite on a biweekly basis.

 

[Remkon]

My answer is Vitamin A deficiency. There isn't enough vitamin A in captive raised feeders in order to sustain the vitamin A needs of a chameleon. Even gutloaded feeders don't contain the vitamin A that is needed to sustain the health of a chameleon. I belive that the amount of vitamin A a chameleon needs is severely under estimated.
There was a bad study regarding Vitamin A and its effects on Chameleons that Vitamin A has virtually been stricken from a chameleons diet.
Vitamin A is the primary vitamin needed for healthy eyes in all animals including humans. There have been studies that Chameleons can not convert the Beta Carotene Vitamin A found in fruits (proformed vitamin A) into useable vitamin A (preformed Vitamin A) Most vitamin dusts contain only vitamin A from beta carotene and it is usually a small amount. And if a vitamin supplement does contain Preformed Vitamin A it is just minimal. However the fear of overdosing Vita A has left a major of chams severely deficient and it seems that it becomes prominate at around 9 months to a year of age.

Usually by the time we notice that our Chameleons has a vitamin A deficiency the illness has progressed to the point where it becomes critical. Chams are good at hiding their health issues. First it starts with dryness and light sensitivity in one eye. So the Cham starts rubbing its eye on branches in the cage because it feels irritated and itchy. A lot of times when this happens people will also notice that the chams tongue becomes weak and doesn't shoot out as far. This is because vitamin A deficiency can also mimic MBD and cause muscle weakness. Because the Cham is rubbing its eye on branches in its cage it further irritates the eye allowing bacteria to enter they eye which causes conjunctivitis. By now either the owner is putting over the counter eye drops made for humans into their chams eyes or they take it to the vet who promptly puts the Cham on antibiotics and eye ointment. Soon the owner probably notices their Cham isnt getting any better. Meanwhile the other eye might become infected because the bacteria infection has spread. Chances are by this time the Cham stops eating and drinking which leads to dehydration. By now the Cham starts to show other symptoms which is usually interpreted as MBD so the Cham is put on heavy doses of Calcium and D3 along with a different antibiotic. This eventually leads to starvation, kidney problems, renal failure and finally death. Most of this could have been prevented if the Cham got the correct amount of vitamin A in its diet to begin with. Unfortunately, very few veterinarians haven't concluded that when the Cham is treated for an eye infection it should also be supplemented with Preformed vitamin A in order to treat the infection and the underlying vitamin A deficiency. I've also read posts where the vet did prescribe a vitamin A supplement but the owner refused to give it because they know better then their vet due to the unfounded fear of vitamin A toxicity. Either way it's a simple solution that could have prevented the death of another Cham.

So... How would one obtain and apply 'Preformed vitamin A' to their cham?

 

[jpowell86]

Great thread Matt!

I agree with everything above. Janet is right, chameleons actively clean out their eyes and the more we can simulate prolonged showers..the better. Used to, this wasn't easily done in an enclosure. That is why we had to shower our chams once or twice a week. So a misting system is a must.

What @Carlton and @jannb said is great as well. Sometimes when these threads pop up, the information presented doesn't give anyone here the ability to offer appropriate advice. Closed eyes are indicative of many issues that are not related to the eyes at all. Too often, when we see a chameleon with closed eyes, there is an internal issue that has been ignored, missed or just not understood for a prolonged period before the keeper recognizes that an issue is present. Malnutrition, dehydration, lethargy, infection, etc. These can all cause this. Jannb also mentioned the UVB playing a role. That is very common with people raising chameleons from hatchlings. Of course, I think that we have eliminated the majority of these issues with better bulbs and understanding the need for weaker UVB for neonates.

I agree too with @JaxyGirl. I think vitamin A issues are a player in eye health. But, I don't think we see this often. Where I have noticed this is in captive bred clutches that were produced by malnourished females. I have seen and read many testimonies of great keepers that lost whole clutches from eye problems. I think that is a result of the dam being unable to pass those nutrients to her clutch. Thinking about the exponential growth of chameleons, it is easy to imagine how fast their systems utilize the nutrients, calcium and vitamins that we offer them. I think that is going to be a battle for me with the new melleri hatchlings I have. They are a large chameleon with a rather explosive growth rate. So one could imagine that the supplementation schedule for them would be way different than a clutch of quads(just an example).

Andrew @Extensionofgreen has shared stories with me about babies being lost to eye issues. I hope he chimes in at some point as well.

I think people link eye issues with the death of their chameleons because they don't understand the underlying cause of death. I think too, when we see infections in the eyes, we can almost assume that the infection is active beyond that point. That is dangerous in chameleons. Usually once an infection internalizes in the skull, it is very hard to get in front of.

So, my biggest word of advice for the novice is - really familiarize yourself with the species you work with. You will see statements like.."keep it like a panther". Don't run with that advice. Look at examples of healthy specimens. Read about their specific needs and try to simulate that in their enclosure. Every chameleon is different and will require variation. All this will help you have a better eye for something that maybe off with their health. Usually when you can do this, you can catch the issue early enough where medical intervention or a simple fix or tweak in husbandry can solve your issue.

 

[JaxyGirl]

Great thread Matt!

I agree with everything above. Janet is right, chameleons actively clean out their eyes and the more we can simulate prolonged showers..the better. Used to, this wasn't easily done in an enclosure. That is why we had to shower our chams once or twice a week. So a misting system is a must.

What @Carlton and @jannb said is great as well. Sometimes when these threads pop up, the information presented doesn't give anyone here the ability to offer appropriate advice. Closed eyes are indicative of many issues that are not related to the eyes at all. Too often, when we see a chameleon with closed eyes, there is an internal issue that has been ignored, missed or just not understood for a prolonged period before the keeper recognizes that an issue is present. Malnutrition, dehydration, lethargy, infection, etc. These can all cause this. Jannb also mentioned the UVB playing a role. That is very common with people raising chameleons from hatchlings. Of course, I think that we have eliminated the majority of these issues with better bulbs and understanding the need for weaker UVB for neonates.

I agree too with @JaxyGirl. I think vitamin A issues are a player in eye health. But, I don't think we see this often. Where I have noticed this is in captive bred clutches that were produced by malnourished females. I have seen and read many testimonies of great keepers that lost whole clutches from eye problems. I think that is a result of the dam being unable to pass those nutrients to her clutch. Thinking about the exponential growth of chameleons, it is easy to imagine how fast their systems utilize the nutrients, calcium and vitamins that we offer them. I think that is going to be a battle for me with the new melleri hatchlings I have. They are a large chameleon with a rather explosive growth rate. So one could imagine that the supplementation schedule for them would be way different than a clutch of quads(just an example).

Andrew @Extensionofgreen has shared stories with me about babies being lost to eye issues. I hope he chimes in at some point as well.

I think people link eye issues with the death of their chameleons because they don't understand the underlying cause of death. I think too, when we see infections in the eyes, we can almost assume that the infection is active beyond that point. That is dangerous in chameleons. Usually once an infection internalizes in the skull, it is very hard to get in front of.

So, my biggest word of advice for the novice is - really familiarize yourself with the species you work with. You will see statements like.."keep it like a panther". Don't run with that advice. Look at examples of healthy specimens. Read about their specific needs and try to simulate that in their enclosure. Every chameleon is different and will require variation. All this will help you have a better eye for something that maybe off with their health. Usually when you can do this, you can catch the issue early enough where medical intervention or a simple fix or tweak in husbandry can solve your issue.

I agree and very well said!

 

[JaxyGirl]

So... How would one obtain and apply 'Preformed vitamin A' to their cham?

I use Vitamin A liquid gels that you can find in the vitamin isle of drugstores. I either inject it into a feeder or put a drop on the feeder and then feed it to my Cham.

 

[Matt Vanilla Gorilla]

So, since I started this thread two more people initiated discussions about chameleons with eye problems! This is a continued problem/issue! I am still hoping to see some of our very experienced keepers bring their knowledge, wisdom and experience to this discussion!

We need your expertise! Please help!

Thanks!

 

[Virgil1972]

So we got it narrowed down to Vit. A, dirty eyes/injures, and a very big number of internal problems. I think why so many new and inexperienced people are posting about eye issues is because there are so many reasons that chams close there eyes, it could be vitamin issue, maybe there is something stuck in there eye, and etc. There is only so much a forum can do with pics and a description. I think its best to have a vet examine the animal.

 

[Matt Vanilla Gorilla]

How about herbs and berries? Bilberries are great for human eye health! How about Lutein to protect your macula and retina. Astaxanthin helps to fight free-radicals in your entire eye. People add the antioxidant power from vitamins A, C, and E to keep their eyes strong and improve tissue health. Also adding zinc to your regimen to maintain the high levels your eyes require for peak vision health. Any ideas if these would help chameleons? If we have any veterinarians here your input would be appreciated!

 

[Matt Vanilla Gorilla]

Some information I just received from one of our very educated members here on the forums (He is currently very busy so he will do his own post later when he has time).

Most true eye problems are either caused by eye trauma, inappropriate lighting or a Vitamin A deficiency!

I therefore conclude that 1) we should decrease the amount of items in our cages that could potentially hurt/scratch the eyes of our chameleons, 2) that we should consult experts such as Mr. Todd Goode from "Light Your Reptiles" (one of our site sponsors) for your chameleon specific lighting, and 3) that we each need to educate ourselves about our specific chameleons vitamin A needs! And supliment accordingly!

 

[Matt Vanilla Gorilla]

Is there anyone else with vital information everyone on this forum needs in order to have optimally healthy chameleons? Are there any veterinarians on this forum that could add more wisdom to this discussion! People are despirate! Can you help?

Eagerly and appreciatingly
Matt

 

[Extensionofgreen]

Proper supplementation, proper hydration, and proper lighting are crucial to keeping eyes healthy, but so are temperatures. Any parameter in a keeper's care being off can result in stressors and physical ailments to the entire body system, eyes included.
As far as Vitamin A being concerned, I agree with the above statements, that preformed A is critical and often underutilized, especially in chameleons that are experiencing active growth or carrying eggs/embryos. The problem is that no one knows exactly how much a chameleon needs of A and each species will be different and possibly every individual chameleon. It is nessecary to employ 2-3 reputable supplements, listing performed A and use them in rotation, getting advice from a vet as to dosage, based on amounts listed on the package and your specific chameleon. Young animals can and should be supplemented weakly, weekly, in all species. What's weakly? I can't give this advice, because it is unknown how much is not enough and how much will become harmful. It is also impacted by species, health of the animal, age of the animal, hydration, gutloads used, and so on. I often use supplements geared towards tree frogs, dart frogs, and other small, sensitive creatures, as I believe the dosage to be smaller, gentler, safer, and able to be given more frequently. Weakly means a small dose, on a small number of feeders, using a product with a low to moderate amount of A.
Jaxygirl outlined perfectly how the symptoms of vitamin A deficiency manifest, though I caution against using human vitamins, as the dose will be higher and hard to scale down. One also needs to be aware of the dangers of too much A, the first symptom often being swelling or edema in the throat or gullar area. This signifies kidney stress and damage and is a dangerous warning, calling for cessation and review of your supplement regime and increased misting/showering, until the edema is gone.
Currently the trend is to supplement as we know is safe, twice a month. I see this as a shot in the dark and poorly representative of nature, which undoubtedly provides small doses regularly and larger dosages when the occasional vertebrate is consumed. I aim for smaller dosages, more often, but keeping in mind all of my other factors, as stated above.

Misting schedules are something I see many people getting wrong. Unless you have a wild caught or dehydrated animal, daily misting is not mandatory or desireable, in many cases. A dripper and a humidifier are better ways of offering daily hydration and humidity needs. It does not rain multiple times a day, every day, where chameleons live. They need time to dry out and the air needs to avoid becoming too saturated with stagnant, humid air. I have parsons and they get 4 30 min mist sessions a week and the rest of the days are only misted for 7 minutes and that's less for the chameleons to drink and more for the plants. Unless you live in an extremely dry place, have an overly ventilated habitat, insufficient live plant material, or a dehydrated animal, you can mist for 15 mins, 4 times a week, for veileds and panthers, maybe 30mins for melleri, parsons, and montanes.

Chameleons are not only dependent on UVB light, but many times our enclosures are too dimly lit and lack the intensity of light and UVA that chameleons need to feel their best. Even a shady jungle is much brighter than many of our cages. Lightyourreptiles is a wonderful resource for better understanding your cage and chameleon's lighting needs. Adequate is different than ideal. My parsons are happy in a pretty intensley lit cage, one with lighting many experts said would be too much. That's a montane species, so imagine what a veiled or Panther, used to worshipping the morning and late evening sun, requires to feel their best.

Along with light is temperature. Many chameleons are kept too hot or too cold. I actually think too cool is as often encountered as too warm. For sun-loving species, 85-90F is a minimum for adult basking, with a 80-85F being preferred for babies. Montanes and dense forest species should be offered an 85Fmax and 80F minimum basking spot. These basking spots should NOT be Mercury Vapor bulbs, though MV bulbs can be used, but the chameleon should not have to endure increased UVB to get to the desired basking temps, so offer more than one basking spot and more than one basking temperature and UVB gradient. Keep your ambient temps where they need to be, too. 68-72F in the shade, for montanes, up to 76-78F middle range, and basking areas between 80-85F. Temp drops at night, to the mid 50sF are fine. For lowland species, 72-76F in the shade, 76-80F in the middle range, and basking between 80 and up to 90F for adults, with cool nights, down to 55F perfectly fine. Some people are successful with hotter basking temperatures, but there should never be any reason to expose your chameleon to above 95F and doing so risk thermal burns, dehydration, overheating, and the consequences of too much light, depending on the source of the heat.

A sound gutload and variety of feeders, properly housed and cared for, as well as wild caught prey, are the pillars of good husbandry and healthy animals in general.

 

[Matt Vanilla Gorilla]

Proper supplementation, proper hydration, and proper lighting are crucial to keeping eyes healthy, but so are temperatures. Any parameter in a keeper's care being off can result in stressors and physical ailments to the entire body system, eyes included.
As far as Vitamin A being concerned, I agree with the above statements, that preformed A is critical and often underutilized, especially in chameleons that are experiencing active growth or carrying eggs/embryos. The problem is that no one knows exactly how much a chameleon needs of A and each species will be different and possibly every individual chameleon. It is nessecary to employ 2-3 reputable supplements, listing performed A and use them in rotation, getting advice from a vet as to dosage, based on amounts listed on the package and your specific chameleon. Young animals can and should be supplemented weakly, weekly, in all species. What's weakly? I can't give this advice, because it is unknown how much is not enough and how much will become harmful. It is also impacted by species, health of the animal, age of the animal, hydration, gutloads used, and so on. I often use supplements geared towards tree frogs, dart frogs, and other small, sensitive creatures, as I believe the dosage to be smaller, gentler, safer, and able to be given more frequently. Weakly means a small dose, on a small number of feeders, using a product with a low to moderate amount of A.
Jaxygirl outlined perfectly how the symptoms of vitamin A deficiency manifest, though I caution against using human vitamins, as the dose will be higher and hard to scale down. One also needs to be aware of the dangers of too much A, the first symptom often being swelling or edema in the throat or gullar area. This signifies kidney stress and damage and is a dangerous warning, calling for cessation and review of your supplement regime and increased misting/showering, until the edema is gone.
Currently the trend is to supplement as we know is safe, twice a month. I see this as a shot in the dark and poorly representative of nature, which undoubtedly provides small doses regularly and larger dosages when the occasional vertebrate is consumed. I aim for smaller dosages, more often, but keeping in mind all of my other factors, as stated above.

Misting schedules are something I see many people getting wrong. Unless you have a wild caught or dehydrated animal, daily misting is not mandatory or desireable, in many cases. A dripper and a humidifier are better ways of offering daily hydration and humidity needs. It does not rain multiple times a day, every day, where chameleons live. They need time to dry out and the air needs to avoid becoming too saturated with stagnant, humid air. I have parsons and they get 4 30 min mist sessions a week and the rest of the days are only misted for 7 minutes and that's less for the chameleons to drink and more for the plants. Unless you live in an extremely dry place, have an overly ventilated habitat, insufficient live plant material, or a dehydrated animal, you can mist for 15 mins, 4 times a week, for veileds and panthers, maybe 30mins for melleri, parsons, and montanes.

Chameleons are not only dependent on UVB light, but many times our enclosures are too dimly lit and lack the intensity of light and UVA that chameleons need to feel their best. Even a shady jungle is much brighter than many of our cages. Lightyourreptiles is a wonderful resource for better understanding your cage and chameleon's lighting needs. Adequate is different than ideal. My parsons are happy in a pretty intensley lit cage, one with lighting many experts said would be too much. That's a montane species, so imagine what a veiled or Panther, used to worshipping the morning and late evening sun, requires to feel their best.

Along with light is temperature. Many chameleons are kept too hot or too cold. I actually think too cool is as often encountered as too warm. For sun-loving species, 85-90F is a minimum for adult basking, with a 80-85F being preferred for babies. Montanes and dense forest species should be offered an 85Fmax and 80F minimum basking spot. These basking spots should NOT be Mercury Vapor bulbs, though MV bulbs can be used, but the chameleon should not have to endure increased UVB to get to the desired basking temps, so offer more than one basking spot and more than one basking temperature and UVB gradient. Keep your ambient temps where they need to be, too. 68-72F in the shade, for montanes, up to 76-78F middle range, and basking areas between 80-85F. Temp drops at night, to the mid 50sF are fine. For lowland species, 72-76F in the shade, 76-80F in the middle range, and basking between 80 and up to 90F for adults, with cool nights, down to 55F perfectly fine. Some people are successful with hotter basking temperatures, but there should never be any reason to expose your chameleon to above 95F and doing so risk thermal burns, dehydration, overheating, and the consequences of too much light, depending on the source of the heat.

A sound gutload and variety of feeders, properly housed and cared for, as well as wild caught prey, are the pillars of good husbandry and healthy animals in general.

Thanks for the well thaught through and composed posting! Much appreciated!