Eye problems?

EazyBaKe0vEn

New Member
I was over at a good friends house of mine just the other night. She had just bought a juvenile veiled Chameleon.

chameleon Info: Veiled Chameleon, Male, About 5-7 months old, She has had her for about 3 weeks.

Handling - Here is the funny thing about this. When ever my friend opens the cage for any reason the little girl willingly climbs on her hand! She scratches at the enclosure when my friend is near it to let her out. She loves hand feeding. My friend does not have to go out of her way at all to get the Chameleon out of the cage it willingly comes out and the Chams colors are a pure bright lime green all the time! So maybe 3 times a week maybe 4 days of handling for no more than 5 minutes at a time.

Feeding - She gets about 6-7 Crickets daily and I put reptile calcium powder on them about 2-3 times a week and 3 times a month I give reptile multi vitamin supplement.

Watering - She sprays with a mister 3 times a day. With a dripping system.

Fecal Description - Never been tested. Her droppings are solid and dark brown and her Urates are nice and white

History - When my friend had picked her up there where at least 4 to 5 other chameleons with her in the same cage. This Cham was the last to go. No history of medical problems.

Cage Type - 18x18x36 screen cage

Lighting - 5.0 reptisun UVB light, 2x 75watt basking bulb, and 1x 75watt black incandescent bulb for night time.
Since yesterday only 1x 75watt basking bulb is being used.

Temperature - The basking spot is 90 degrees and the rest of the cage varies from 80 at the higher part of the cage to 72-75 at the bottom of the cage. Night time is average of 70-72 all around the cage except where the black light is temps are about 80. He has 12 hrs light and 12 hrs dark.
I'm thinking the black light may not be necessary because the Cham never sleeps close to the bulb because 70-72 is not too cold for her. Should she get ride of it?

Humidity - Her humidity ranges at about 70 at the start and gradually drops until I mist again. Since she is also being kept in the basement humidity is already at a high level.

Plants - She has plenty of vines a few fake plants and 3 small/medium Pathos plants.

Placement - Her cage is in the basement. Temps in basement range from 69-72 but mostly at a solid 70. The location is a no traffic zone. The only traffic is when my friend goes down there to feed to feed her.

Current Problem - The Veiled Chameleon started opening and closing her eyes very frequently. There is no consistency as to what eye may be the problem. She'll have her left eye open and right eye closed and vise versa or she will have both eyes closed. It almost looks like she's trying to clean it or something but I looked at both of her eyes and there is nothing in them that I could see; no shed or any sort of debris. I had assisted her and attempted rinse the Chams eyes out with luke warm water. No real results from doing that. She is somewhat eating maybe 4-5 crickets a day from 6-7. She's still very active eating drinking and still using the bathroom. My friend had removed the second 75 watt basking bulb from the cage because she thinks that all the lights are messing with her vision. Any idea's guys. Any ideas and help would be grateful.
 
she could just be trying to clean her eyes which looks like they are bulging them out while they are closed but if it keeps up then I would take her to get her looked at. Everything else looks good but you probably dont need they lights at night she will be fine they can go all the way down to 50 at night and be fine.
 
Are you using the linear reptisun 5.0? Also, I would say get rid of the black light. Your basking temp is a little high since she is young. It's never a good sign when they have their eyes closed. I would say take her into the vet. How long have her eyes been closed/closing?
 
Current Problem - The Veiled Chameleon started opening and closing her eyes very frequently. There is no consistency as to what eye may be the problem.

Your friend was right to get rid of the night light. Isn't needed at those temps and all the additional light and heat dry out the cham more.

Check your dusting schedule. Most people are dusting very lightly with plain calcium (no D3) most days and using a calcium with D3 about once a week. Vitamins once a month to 6 weeks. Gutload with a good variety of dark leafy greens and veggies, fruit, fortified cereal grains, bee pollen.

If you need to flush the eyes, use a sterile saline formulated for eyes (such as contact lense saline rinse with no preservatives). It will sting less than plain water. But, hand spraying the cage, foliage around the cham with warm water gently for a longer time (as opposed to a heavy drenching for a minute or so) can help a lot.
 
I just got off the phone with my friend and she said that she has just started noticing it over the last 3 days.

I managed to get her dusting schedule too.

Here's what she is using..
Sticky Tongue farms Mineral All Phosphorous Free with D3
Zoo Med Reptivite without D3

Sunday - Mineral All
Monday -
Tuesday - Mineral All
Wednesday - Reptivite no D3
Thursday - Mineral All
Friday -
Saturday - Mineral All

I looked up the Mineral All supplements and the directions state for juvenile animals use every other feeding? That seems to be a little excessive would you agree? Should she change the schedule to something more like...

Sunday -
Monday - Mineral All
Tuesday -
Wednesday - Reptivite no D3
Thursday -
Friday - Mineral All
Saturday -

Has anyone ever user the Mineral All supplements before?
 
Yes, used it for years. As juveniles are growing rapidly and building bone, dust more often. The amount of dusting shouldn't be really heavy anyway.
 
So today, we had decided to take her Chameleon over to the vet to see what's going on. After about an hour of question asking and examining. We have discovered what was the cause of the odd "sleepy like" symptoms with the Cham's eyes. The pictures below pretty much do the explaining :)

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Other than the 20 some odd parasites in her gut she has a clean bill of health and the eye issue is not really an issue at all. I have helped prepare a 3 in deep nesting ground fill coconut fiber, spagnum moss, and soil. She should be due any day. Also, we have no idea wether the eggs in her belly are fertile or not? But, we do know is that she was with 3-4 other juveniles for quite some time before my friend ended picking her up so they just might be fertile.
 
3 inches isn't deep enough...it needs to be at least 10" deep. The (opaque) container should be big enough when empty for the female to fit into with several inches of space on all sides.

Once she starts to dig, don't let her see you watching her...she may abandon the hole.

She might dig several test holes but should pick one and dig it until she is satisfied with it, turn around bum down, lay the eggs (usually in the evening) and fill the hole in/tamp it down.

Make sure the substrate in the container is moist enough to hold a tunnel.

I hope things go the way they should and that she will lay the eggs. If she shows any signs of going down hill (sitting low in the cage, eyes shut and sunken, etc.), get her back to the vets right away...you don't want her to end up eggbound.

Since you don't know if the eggs are fertile or not, I would recommend you have a container of slightly moist vermiculite ready to incubate them in. I use a shoebox sized tupperware type container with a lid to incubate them in. I fill the shoebox half full of slightly moist coarse vermiculite. (When you take a fist full of it you should only be able to squeeze a drop or two of water out of it). I put two tiny holes in the lid. I lay the eggs in (thumbprint) dents on the vermiculite in rows about 1" apart in all directions. I put the lid on and put them somewhere where the temperature is in the mid 70's.

Good luck!
 
Also, you shouldn't fill the container with coconut fiber or moss. Most people use moistened sand. What do the more experienced breeders/female cham keepers use?
 
Coconut fiber is fine....moistened play sand is not the only medium used by keepers. Kinyonga's advice is perfect and she is an experienced breeder/keeper.
 
I have arranged a much larger 8in deep pan for her to be able to lay her eggs.
As I said I have filled it with coconut fiber, spagnum moss, and a very little soil in the nesting box. The good news is that the little girl is eating and appears to be doing just fine. She is due sometime this week or the next says the vet.
 
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