Eye trouble
- Thread starter Marshmallows mom
- Start date
nj011908
New Member
So today when I got home I noticed that Marshmallow had his right eye closed. 10 mins later he opened it but it seems a little off to me... what do you all think?
does seem possibly a little dehydrated, what is your watering schedule and feeding schedule, from what i hear when they start to close eyes during the day, hydration and lethargy are an initial thought
Marshmallows mom
Established Member
water schedule... I have a aqua zamp... goes on a few times a day for about 2 mins at a time. Hes eating 10-15 crickets a day. I was told he was 3 months when I got him... so that makes him 4 months now.
nj011908
New Member
Vitamin A deficiency is a common malady in LTC Panther chameleons, either with WC or CB origins. This stems from the chameleon's inability to synthesize real Vitamin A from common precursors, such as beta-carotene. This can be confusing when evaluating supplements, as many dry supplements list Vitamin A content, but only as the precursor, beta-carotene, and not as “pre-formed”, or in essence, real Vitamin A.
While lack of Vitamin A effects many aspects of chameleon health, the usual first observed symptom is the appearance of an unexplained eye irritation, manifested in difficulties in keeping first one eye open, and after a few days, both eyes are affected. In most cases, the eyes will not appear sunken, or in any other way mis-shaped initially, although secondary problems, such as an infection, can follow. The usual initial observation is that it is causing irritation to the chameleon, and that it can't keep the eye open as normal. It occurs more often in larger animals, but sometimes occurs in larger juveniles. In some cases the eye may appear as swollen. Successfully hatched chameleons seem to be born with a supply of Vitamin A, an essential ingredient for successful embryonic development, and fresh WC’s seem to be imported with a supply. Mother Nature seems able to provide this vitamin without problem. Without some real vitamin A in their diet, these stores will deplete. It is a difficult vitamin for the hobbyist to gut-load via crickets and insects though, and such attempts are usually ineffective in our experience.
Vitamin A is a fat soluble vitamin, as is Vitamin E. It is most commonly sold in gel caps, with each gel cap containing approximately three drops of an oil solvent. It is available on-line from many suppliers, or is sold in most vitamin and health stores. The most common, and consensus most effective form of vitamin A, is a compound known as retinal palmitate. It is a common human food supplement as well. Depending on manufacturer, gel caps may contain 2000-25,000 iu’s (intravenous units) per gel cap. Read the label to insure you are buying a product with retinal palmitate as the Vitamin A. The solvent may be fish oil, which outside of its odor, is OK.
You can usually find an adequate source at such as a GNC store. When looking online, here’s a link: http://www.carlsonlabs.com/p-27-vita...-15000-iu.aspx
However, if the link has expired, google “Vitamin A Carlson Laboratories” and you should find many product options.
Real Vitamin A can also be available as the compound retinal acetate, which is synthetically produced vitamin A. While not as effective as retinal palmitate, the acetate version is more easily crystalized, and then included in some dry products, such as the ZooMed vitamin powder marketed as Reptivite.
Vitamin A is toxic in large quantities. As you are dealing with an oil, a strong word of caution as well. Chameleons have an extreme dislike for almost any measurable quantity of oil introduced into their mouth. While inexact, usually a negative reaction starts to become likely to occur if a quantity of oil ½ drop or greater is introduced into an adult chameleon’s mouth, and is virtually guaranteed with 2 or more drops. This can induce vomiting and inhalation of the oil, possibly death. Fortunately, the amount of oil (and vitamin A) needed to effectively dose a chameleon is usually less than 1/20th of a drop. Again, an inexact science, but depending upon the concentration of the Vitamin A in the oil, your goal is to deliver a dose that contains approximately 100 iu’s per 50g of chameleon. An exceedingly rough estimate would be 1/20th of a drop of the oil in an average adult female panther chameleon. There is a reasonable margin for error. This can administered by puncturing one or more gel caps, and wetting a Q-tip with the oil, so that is is wet, but not dripping. You can then grab the chameleon behind the head, and when it says “Ahhhh”, touch the Q-tip to its inner gum, etc. It will likely chomp down, then let go of the Q-tip once released itself. Or, if you are able to hand-feed, swab the back of a cricket or such with a smear of the oil, and then coax your chameleon into eating it.
As a rule, we recommend this treatment to all adult chameleons once every two weeks. If an animal is showing symptoms of Vitamin A deficiency, such as eye closing with no other apparent malady, we recommend the dose daily for five days, then once every two weeks. In such cases where Vitamin A deficiency is the problem, and it is caught early, the eyes usually improve on the third or fourth day. In animals where treatment has been delayed, improvement can take up to 2-3 weeks, except in cases where the treatment has been delayed too long and become beyond repair. Good luck.
this came from Jim Flaherty of the chameleon company.. great info click the link below to get to his thread on your problem
https://www.chameleonforums.com/cham-keeps-closing-one-his-eyes-66576/
While lack of Vitamin A effects many aspects of chameleon health, the usual first observed symptom is the appearance of an unexplained eye irritation, manifested in difficulties in keeping first one eye open, and after a few days, both eyes are affected. In most cases, the eyes will not appear sunken, or in any other way mis-shaped initially, although secondary problems, such as an infection, can follow. The usual initial observation is that it is causing irritation to the chameleon, and that it can't keep the eye open as normal. It occurs more often in larger animals, but sometimes occurs in larger juveniles. In some cases the eye may appear as swollen. Successfully hatched chameleons seem to be born with a supply of Vitamin A, an essential ingredient for successful embryonic development, and fresh WC’s seem to be imported with a supply. Mother Nature seems able to provide this vitamin without problem. Without some real vitamin A in their diet, these stores will deplete. It is a difficult vitamin for the hobbyist to gut-load via crickets and insects though, and such attempts are usually ineffective in our experience.
Vitamin A is a fat soluble vitamin, as is Vitamin E. It is most commonly sold in gel caps, with each gel cap containing approximately three drops of an oil solvent. It is available on-line from many suppliers, or is sold in most vitamin and health stores. The most common, and consensus most effective form of vitamin A, is a compound known as retinal palmitate. It is a common human food supplement as well. Depending on manufacturer, gel caps may contain 2000-25,000 iu’s (intravenous units) per gel cap. Read the label to insure you are buying a product with retinal palmitate as the Vitamin A. The solvent may be fish oil, which outside of its odor, is OK.
You can usually find an adequate source at such as a GNC store. When looking online, here’s a link: http://www.carlsonlabs.com/p-27-vita...-15000-iu.aspx
However, if the link has expired, google “Vitamin A Carlson Laboratories” and you should find many product options.
Real Vitamin A can also be available as the compound retinal acetate, which is synthetically produced vitamin A. While not as effective as retinal palmitate, the acetate version is more easily crystalized, and then included in some dry products, such as the ZooMed vitamin powder marketed as Reptivite.
Vitamin A is toxic in large quantities. As you are dealing with an oil, a strong word of caution as well. Chameleons have an extreme dislike for almost any measurable quantity of oil introduced into their mouth. While inexact, usually a negative reaction starts to become likely to occur if a quantity of oil ½ drop or greater is introduced into an adult chameleon’s mouth, and is virtually guaranteed with 2 or more drops. This can induce vomiting and inhalation of the oil, possibly death. Fortunately, the amount of oil (and vitamin A) needed to effectively dose a chameleon is usually less than 1/20th of a drop. Again, an inexact science, but depending upon the concentration of the Vitamin A in the oil, your goal is to deliver a dose that contains approximately 100 iu’s per 50g of chameleon. An exceedingly rough estimate would be 1/20th of a drop of the oil in an average adult female panther chameleon. There is a reasonable margin for error. This can administered by puncturing one or more gel caps, and wetting a Q-tip with the oil, so that is is wet, but not dripping. You can then grab the chameleon behind the head, and when it says “Ahhhh”, touch the Q-tip to its inner gum, etc. It will likely chomp down, then let go of the Q-tip once released itself. Or, if you are able to hand-feed, swab the back of a cricket or such with a smear of the oil, and then coax your chameleon into eating it.
As a rule, we recommend this treatment to all adult chameleons once every two weeks. If an animal is showing symptoms of Vitamin A deficiency, such as eye closing with no other apparent malady, we recommend the dose daily for five days, then once every two weeks. In such cases where Vitamin A deficiency is the problem, and it is caught early, the eyes usually improve on the third or fourth day. In animals where treatment has been delayed, improvement can take up to 2-3 weeks, except in cases where the treatment has been delayed too long and become beyond repair. Good luck.
this came from Jim Flaherty of the chameleon company.. great info click the link below to get to his thread on your problem
https://www.chameleonforums.com/cham-keeps-closing-one-his-eyes-66576/
Marshmallows mom
Established Member
thanks for all the info... to answer your previous question... its only the right eye.
nj011908
New Member
get the vitamin A as retinyl palmitate...put way less than a drop on a cricket and fed it to him...smear it on the crickets back...hand feed if poosible to make sure he gets it
Do that once a day for 5 days. Hopefully you will see improvement by about day 3-4. Be wary of any further symptoms, which could indicate additional issues. You will be able to keep us posted. Hope it works out.
Do that once a day for 5 days. Hopefully you will see improvement by about day 3-4. Be wary of any further symptoms, which could indicate additional issues. You will be able to keep us posted. Hope it works out.
Marshmallows mom
Established Member
thank you soooooo much for all your help... I will get the vitamin A tomorrow and start it!
nj011908
New Member
your very welcome, we are all here to work together to keep our little dinosaurs healthy, just read the directions carefully, don"t over do it!!!
OldChamKeeper
Chameleon Enthusiast
Vit A issue. All that info posted is solid. After you get him looking good do be sure to gut load your feeders well and that problem shouldn't happen again.
You should feed your crickets approx. 3-4 hours before feeding them to your cham. Carrots are a good item to help prevent this from happening again. By no means should you just gut load the crickets with carrots all the time, I'm just making a suggestion in your case. Also gut loading won't help him as he currently is, the other info given is what you do when the animal is already showing symptoms. Gut loading is just a preventative after you get him back on his feet. Personally I feed my insects a variety including carrots, leafy greens, beans, and plain corn flakes. Sometimes I use bug burger. A variety is key. Also once a week I dust my insects with a Repashy medium calcium supplement.
You should feed your crickets approx. 3-4 hours before feeding them to your cham. Carrots are a good item to help prevent this from happening again. By no means should you just gut load the crickets with carrots all the time, I'm just making a suggestion in your case. Also gut loading won't help him as he currently is, the other info given is what you do when the animal is already showing symptoms. Gut loading is just a preventative after you get him back on his feet. Personally I feed my insects a variety including carrots, leafy greens, beans, and plain corn flakes. Sometimes I use bug burger. A variety is key. Also once a week I dust my insects with a Repashy medium calcium supplement.
