Faly sick HELP.

my vet up here is good, and very reasonable, i havent gone through blood work and what not, but i would definatly give him a call and see if he thinks he can help you out.
i can give you his info if you'd like, just shoot me a pm
 
They were pine frame, very dry wood, the door had a 1/16" chicken wire so you could see through it better, and the rest of walls were window screen. It has a 1/2 cm thick safety glass base. everything else was the same, ficus, vines, mercury vapour bulb

Is the "chicken wire" galvanized if so it's toxic.
 
Some random thoughts here, as there are enough scattered ideas in this thread to comment on forever. Sorry to hear of your calamities.

1) That red and blue chameleon ..... "Blue". That's a Locale hybrid. Was it supposed to be pedigree ?

2) A simple basic Vitamin A regimen will not harm your chameleon. It might not fix what ails it, but done in proper moderation, will cause no harm.

3) Your female was 3 years old. She was getting old for a panther female. They can live a bit longer, but in the best of conditions, she was near the end of the road regardless.

4) Coccidia can kill. Especially in a compromised chameleon. If you are dealing with coccidia, go 100% artificial plants with your animals for about 6 months. If you have dirt and live plants, coccidia will hang out a long time.

5) Your watering should match nature to the best of your abilities. There's no misters in the wild. Wet all the time is bad. Real bad.

6) Respiratory infections usually start for one of two reasons:

.... a) dirty bugs, where the upper esophagus becomes infected, and then spreads down to the lungs; or

.... b) A combination of too much moisture, too low ambient temps, for too long (2 days or more). A panther can be cooled into the mid 40's every night if it then is able to warm up to the upper 80's or higher (fahrenheit) every day. I don't recommend such, but that will not harm them. The lack of the daily warm-up will encourage infections, and is further aggravated by too much misting. Switch to drip. Misters are junk. Humidity is over-hyped, and over-managed. A cheap room humifidier is the way to go if need be. When its dry, such as in the winter, drip your animal's cage for 30 minutes twice a day. So that the animal can drink twice daily. That's less then 24 oz of water total.

7) Going to the vet is not always the best idea, all things considered. They mean well, but as you have found out, unless you have a good one, you may end up with a big bill and a dead animal. Experience can be purchased for less.

Good luck.

Hey Jim

I agree with almost everything you said.
However, in regards to humidity not all of us live in Florida:eek: Some of us live in REALLY dry areas. Last year I had humidity outside the cham room of 6%....not 60% but 6%. In areas like mine we have to do everything we can just to get to 40% which is a LOW humidity day in Florida.

But I do get your point loud and clear and thank you for sharing your immense experience!!!
 
guys what are symptoms of early and mid and late stages of kidney disease in chams? Any way to tell if my females have it too?
 
i would maybe pm member ferritinmyshoes she always has good info on subjects like that and is always willing to help
 
now that i think about it, i think blue's crazy change in colors in the last couple weeks of his life may have been because he was sick?
 
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