Feeding and online orders

[Beman]

I got him in May as a baby. Maybe 5 or 6 months. Hasn’t had a history of MBD. I feed him twice a day about 20 crickets or more a day.

ok so probably just the angle of that picture then. If you would like I can double check your UVB? I would just need to know what type of fixture, bulb, and the distance to the basking branch below it.

So your feeding him very well. You can start adding more diversity to the diet now. I would expect him to be a bit more muscular for his age but he is not underweight. Just as a precaution you could always take a fecal in to the vet to make sure he does not have parasites. This can stunt growth and weight gain.

Overall he looks very good visibly.

 

[Jessainsworth1]

Flukers basking 100w, T5 ho, his spot is about 6 to 7inch

 

[Beman]

Flukers basking 100w, T5 ho, his spot is about 6 to 7inch

I would reduce the basking wattage. 100 watt would be putting out some serious heat. Really do not want it any warmer then 80-85max at basking.

For the UVB is it a 5.0 bulb or a 10.0 bulb? And is it a single bulb fixture?

 

[Jessainsworth1]

I would reduce the basking wattage. 100 watt would be putting out some serious heat. Really do not want it any warmer then 80-85max at basking.

For the UVB is it a 5.0 bulb or a 10.0 bulb? And is it a single bulb fixture?

Linear 5.0 24”

 

[Jessainsworth1]

Linear 5.0 24”

So do u think 60 watt candescent is ok?

 

[Lindasjackson]

A 60 watt incandescent is okay but check the temp it gives off at the basking branch. It would be good to get a temp gage with a probe that you can zip tie to the basking branch so you can monitor the temp there.

 

[Beman]

Linear 5.0 24”

So do u think 60 watt candescent is ok?

Ok so with the 5.0 T5 in a single bulb fixture you want a measured 8-9 inches from the bottom of the fixture to the branches below. This will give you an approximate 3 UVI.

60 watts are typically strong enough. Just make sure it is a real incandescent and it does not say energy efficient or LED. Get a wired temp probe to hook in at the basking branch that way you know exactly what the temp is. Zoo med makes one and exo terra makes one.

 

[Jessainsworth1]

my feedback is in red.don't be overwhelmed by how much feedback is given. it looks like more than it is. just take a deep breath and do what is necessary it will be very easy. on the forums everyone will help with any question so don't be afraid to ask.

Ok here is my info:
I got him in May 2021. Idk his age but he was about 3” long not including his tail. He seems to be about 6 to 7 months old.He is a male veiled chameleon. I do not handle him much except when I clean his enclosure because he doesn’t care for it. ok good, but try to clean around him and don't stress him out if he seems scared or stressed. I feed him twice a day about 10 live crickets each time along with one meal worm each time. so you will want to start feeding less feeders but feeders that are bigger. he should eat around 6 or 7 medium sized feeders daily for the next 2 or 3 months. once he about 9 to 12 months old which is in about 2 or 3 months he will need to start eating 3 to 5 large feeders every 2 or 3 days. I will have a page of some healthy bugs to feed below the form that has great info. By feeders I mean the Equivalent to about one cricket or roach. so you don't want to feed 5 giant worms because every worm might be about 3 or 4 crickets or roaches. who some days you could feed one big worm and 1 cricket. You want to feed him a better variety of bugs and healthier ones too. The more bugs on the list below you feed the better for the cham it will be. Things like crickets, roaches, and silkworms are great staple feeders that can be fed all the time. starting a roach colony is easy and once they start breeding you will never be without them again. super worms and wax worms are great treats but are high in fat so should not be fed very often. hornworms are great and they are very hydrating for your chameleon. mealworms should never ever be fed to your cham as They are high in chitin which is exoskeleton and is not easy for Chams to digest. Make sure whatever you feed is smaller than the space between your Chams eyes, because if not it can be a choking hazard. I use Fluckers high ca food for the crickets. I will have a gut load form also that again the more on the list you use the better. I chop them up in a food processor without making them a smoothie and store in the freezer until use. There are other ways to make gut load like making a powder of all the veggies and fruits or feeding them fresh veggies and fruits. There are also premade gut loads that you addd water to such as Repashy bug burger or cricket crack that you can also use including the veggies and friuts. I give Holler boy (my grand baby named him) Repashy superfood Ca Plus loD every other week. I give him Repcal without D3 everyday. very good I mist him twice a day for 3 mins and fog him twice a day for 30 min. when are you misting and fogging?I use the drip system for water and I’ve never really seen him drink. that's okay it is important to give them options so good job.I use Distilled water. Great His feces is white an black solid form. sounds good If you notice lots of orange on the white part it means you cham is dehydrated and needs more water. The more orange the more dehydrated, if less than half is orange your good.Cage
Reptizoo 24x24x48 screen and glass sounds good but make sure you have good airflow in there.
I use Fluckers basking light and ceramic heat emitter. how hot is the basking temp, it should be about 80 to 85 degrees. you can use a digital thermometer like this ThermoPro Tp50 Hygrometer Thermometer Indoor Humidity Monitor with Temperature or a temp gun. The hotter the basking spot the shorter the lifespan for your cham. I recommend 82 or 83 but anywhere from 80 to 85 is great. I use a 18” reptizoo T8 reptile sun uvb. You will want to get a 22" T5 linear 5% reptisun or 6% arcadia. T5 is newer and provides more Vitamin d and d3 for your cham than the T8. The reptisun should be replaced every 6 months and the arcadia should be replaced every year. the branch that allows them to bask under this light should be about 8 inches below the light for proper UV levels.The temp stays around 70-74 this is perfect if it is ambient temp but this is not hot enough for basking temp.with the humidity 40-50. perfect . At night a temp drop and raise in humidity is good as long as it does not get into the 50s but it is not necessary. only live plant I have is devils ivy. The more live plants, sticks and vines the better. I will have safe plant list below. fake plants can be dangerous because veiled may try to take a bit and if the swallow a piece they will most likely be impacted and die. His enclosure is about 4’ off the ground and it is in a high traffic area but it’s just me living there. pretty good but I would try to get more height as the higher your cham is the safer it will feel. He is close to a vent but it is closed and covered. We live in north west Texas.
Thank you for any help u can provide me with.
check out chameleon academy because they have all the info I just gave you and more. and Neptune the chameleon on YouTube because she has great info. just take a deep breath and don't be overwhelmed.

View attachment 305108View attachment 305109View attachment 305110





THIS IS THE SAFE PLANT LIST. CHECK OUT EVERYTHING ON THIS PAGE. Chameleon Cage Plants - Chameleon Academychameleonacademy.com

Hello , I wanted to ask a question u had mentioned that u chop the veggies up then freeze them. How much do u put in each bag. I have started doing it that way but the veg get gross after awhile. How long do u use each bag?

 

[jackthejellydragon]

Hello , I wanted to ask a question u had mentioned that u chop the veggies up then freeze them. How much do u put in each bag. I have started doing it that way but the veg get gross after awhile. How long do u use each bag?

Are the veggies getting moldy or just gross in a texture way? you can put the veggies in ice cube trays and take one or two out whenever you need them. put the ice cube tray in a bag and get as much air out of it as you can. by the way the veggies should be chopped up to where you can spread it but not quite like a paste. I just put it all in a bag squeeze as much air as I can and freeze it. If you have a vacuum sealer your cut vacuum seal them and it would last months. But keep in mind the more you freeze it and thaw it out the mushier and gross its going to get.

 

[Jessainsworth1]

Are the veggies getting moldy or just gross in a texture way? you can put the veggies in ice cube trays and take one or two out whenever you need them. put the ice cube tray in a bag and get as much air out of it as you can. by the way the veggies should be chopped up to where you can spread it but not quite like a paste. I just put it all in a bag squeeze as much air as I can and freeze it. If you have a vacuum sealer your cut vacuum seal them and it would last months. But keep in mind the more you freeze it and thaw it out the mushier and gross its going to get.

they just look gross not moldy. Yea I just chop them not purée. The ice cube thing is a good idea thanks. I am making a bin for crickets that I bulked ordered how do I put the egg crates in to make them stand up or do they have to be standing?

 

[ERKleRose]

they just look gross not moldy. Yea I just chop them not purée. The ice cube thing is a good idea thanks. I am making a bin for crickets that I bulked ordered how do I put the egg crates in to make them stand up or do they have to be standing?

It's better for the egg crates to be standing up so the gases can be released. You can just lean them up on the side of the container or use enough so they're all supported by each other and filling up the width of the container

 

[jackthejellydragon]

they just look gross not moldy. Yea I just chop them not purée. The ice cube thing is a good idea thanks. I am making a bin for crickets that I bulked ordered how do I put the egg crates in to make them stand up or do they have to be standing?

ok so if it is not moldy it is just from thawing out and freezing over again. crickets will use it wherever you put it but vertical or diagonal is better. you could just lay one Side on the side of the bin and one side on the bottom to make it diagonal. you could use anything heavy to put on the sides and stand it up if you really wanted it vertical but I don't think that you have to and diagonal will work.

 

[Jessainsworth1]

It's better for the egg crates to be standing up so the gases can be released. You can just lean them up on the side of the container or use enough so they're all supported by each other and filling up the width of the container

Awesome thank you so much

 

[Jessainsworth1]

ok so if it is not moldy it is just from thawing out and freezing over again. crickets will use it wherever you put it but vertical or diagonal is better. you could just lay one Side on the side of the bin and one side on the bottom to make it diagonal. you could use anything heavy to put on the sides and stand it up if you really wanted it vertical but I don't think that you have to and diagonal will work.

Thank you