female care

[gemz123]

female care please help

i had a female previously but i had to have her put down after she laid 57 eggs and she broke her front two legs, im getting a new female in a week how can i do stuff different i didnt give her calcium powder last time just dusted her food.
How do i do things different this time please help???

 

[Fool]

Females are the same as male in everything except of temperature and egg laying. Female housing needs to be at 30 inch tall min-um when adults. When adults keep them at 80-83 F and sub adults 75-78 is ideal you can keep them cooler of course but it isn't recommended. Feed her calcium powder with no d3 every 4- 5 days a week. Calcium with d3 like twice a month and a multi vitamin twice a month too. Feed her crickets that are gutloaded(you feed crickets this or plump them up for your cham) in veggies and healthy foods like mustard greens carrots kale greens etc. and other bugs like silk worms butter worm but not to much for the worms they should be fed less than 20% then her regular diet.

She will lay eggs she needs to have a foot deep 1 foot long 5-8 inches wide container, is what others have told me but its up to debate so ask others for more input and opinions. If she does not have a egg laying bin she will become egg bound and die so its important to help have. While she is getting ready to lay eggs she dosent eat for a while and gets dehydrated . Keep her digging bin moist enough to dig in but not to moist that it will collapse on her. After she lay eggs she will need ALOT of water and FOOD because the eggs took her nutrients and she had tired herself out . Then you can go back to your normal feeding routine.

Go here for more info

http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html

http://webhome.idirect.com/~chameleon/owners/chapter5-sub2.html

 

[kinyonga]

http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html

I have always recommended keeping an opaque container of washed playsand in the enclosure of any egglaying sexually mature female chameleon (at least 12" deep X 12" x8") to ensure that she has a place to dig so that you won't miss the sometimes subtle indications that she needs to lay eggs.

Signs that she is ready to lay eggs include but are not limited to...roaming the cage, drinking more, eating less (if the clutch is large in particular), increased girth in the back end of the body in particular.

When the female is digging, do not let her see you watching her...she will likely abandon the hole...if it happens too often she could become eggbound.

Here's some information you might like to read....
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it.

If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. (Some UVB lights have been known to cause health issues, so the most often recommended one is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.) D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.

Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while.

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs....so its important too.

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200604210...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/

 

[pantherlover]

http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html

I have always recommended keeping an opaque container of washed playsand in the enclosure of any egglaying sexually mature female chameleon (at least 12" deep X 12" x8") to ensure that she has a place to dig so that you won't miss the sometimes subtle indications that she needs to lay eggs.

Signs that she is ready to lay eggs include but are not limited to...roaming the cage, drinking more, eating less (if the clutch is large in particular), increased girth in the back end of the body in particular.

When the female is digging, do not let her see you watching her...she will likely abandon the hole...if it happens too often she could become eggbound.

Here's some information you might like to read....
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it.

If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. (Some UVB lights have been known to cause health issues, so the most often recommended one is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.) D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.

Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while.

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs....so its important too.

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200604210...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/

all you need to know is within this post & the link provided.

 

[kinyonga]

Thanks for the comment pantherlover...but there is always more to learn.

 

[gemz123]

thank you so much for that will look at the links and buy calcium powder this time not just rely on the dusting powder!!!
So fingers crossed it all goes well i miss my female awful she was such a character i bought her a five foot artificial tree and put it near her viv and she used to be out more thn she was in she used to wait on the top branch waiting for me to open it up !!
Anyway thanks so much ill post soon when my new female comes !!!

 

[TheReptisentative]

http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/ is a really good one and http://chamworld.blogspot.com/ good luck with ur next run