First Impressions Arcadia LumenIZE LED Bar & ProT5

regal81455 said:
And I would have to wonder exactly how Arcadia intends for people to break new lamps once the original fixture is in operation. Not too many people going to have a spare lumenize fixture just to run a new bulb in for 100 hrs before replacing the one being used by captive animal.
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Again I am just saying better safe then sorry. I have always burned in my uvb on a separate fixture so I can test the uvb before introducing it to my reptiles. I have had faulty bulbs from many manufacturers over the years so I test and pre burn everyone.
 
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regal81455 said:
And I would have to wonder exactly how Arcadia intends for people to break new lamps once the original fixture is in operation. Not too many people going to have a spare lumenize fixture just to run a new bulb in for 100 hrs before replacing the one being used by captive animal.
Click to expand...
With it being a controlled radiation we are introducing into an enclosure. I would recommend everyone no matter the brand do a burn in and if able use a solor meter before putting the light on there reptiles. But I understand not all will have a solor meter so a burn in will at least let you know the bulb is working correctly. I am planning on using my LumenIZE starting tomorrow with it dimming but I pre burned in my bulbs.
 
It doesn’t have to be a Lumenize fixture. It can be any full power T5 fixture. In reply to just using Lumenize fixtures only.
 
So I MAY have been doing all this setup while working from home, I DID find how to rename the devices, I swear I tried this in the beginning but it worked now, so I’ll put that on end user error. You hold down on the device name and a rename field pops up
 

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regal81455 said:
And I would have to wonder exactly how Arcadia intends for people to break new lamps once the original fixture is in operation. Not too many people going to have a spare lumenize fixture just to run a new bulb in for 100 hrs before replacing the one being used by captive animal.
Click to expand...
My other recommendation I guess would be to use your existing uvb bulb if impatient on trying out the new fixture until you can burn in your new uvb bulb. Again just better safe then sorry. The readings coming from a fresh uvb can be way off or over powered the first day or two.
 
Texas Ranger said:
Again I am just saying better safe then sorry. I have always burned in my uvb on a separate fixture so I can test the uvb before introducing it to my reptiles. I have had faulty bulbs from many manufacturers over the years so I test and pre burn everyone.
Click to expand...

Totally feel ya on that - guess it just boils down to personal risk worth taking.
 
Texas Ranger said:
It doesn’t have to be a Lumenize fixture. It can be any full power T5 fixture. In reply to just using Lumenize fixtures only
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Yep, my apologies, for some reason I had in my mind that these new snap in parts were integral to the bulb. You would be correct, any full power t5 would do the job.

I also harken this to breaking in a new motor, there are those that will swear you need to baby it for 500-1000miles and then there are those that swear by breaking it in the way you intend to drive it so it's worn the way it's intended to be used. Both thoughts have seen plenty of failures and successes throughout the years. Realize it might not be the same tech but it goes back to what I said above. Just gonna have to gauge how much risk you're willing to take.

Still want to hear an official response from Arcadia though. This is something that should flat out be included in their documentation if that is their official stance.
 
My linking situation is figured out!! I spent WAY too much time trying to figure this out. To try and summarize, you need to ALWAYS start with the T5 fixture(s) if you're planning on using link cables. My understanding was (which isn't stated otherwise from what I can tell)

I was going to do it as follows since that's how it was going to be laid out on my enclosure

I ordered: 2 T5 to LED link cables
How I tried to set up my lighting with link cables:
(power to wall) LED BAR (T5 to LED) T5 (T5 to LED) LED BAR

What I should have ordered: 1 T5 to LED, 1 LED to LED
So what I need actually is to setup as follows:
(power to wall) T5 (T5 to LED) LED BAR (LED to LED) LED BAR

The cables on top will be criss crossing some but that's okay lol I know the link cables aren't needed but I am low on plugs so I figured might as well do it right lol
 
Shout out to @Texas Ranger for the tip they gave me with the schedule! I shot myself in the foot by not watching the app tutorial LOL so reading this will help those who also don't watch the tutorial lololol

The time ranges auto dim based on the scale you set, I was doing the light a disservice and trying manually do that in my original screenshots 🥴

Attached are the current schedules for the T5 and LED Bars
IMG_6643.PNG
IMG_6644.PNG


I hope everyone enjoyed seeing me fumble through this and learn out loud with everyone watching 🤪

Thanks for all the tips, it was really rad to see the light dimming even with my janky setup of times.

Griffin was confused with the lights going dim I noticed, he kept looking at them like, what the heck? where's the light going? I'll be curious to see how tomorrow goes with my updated schedule and not being setup mid day while I'm working between support tickets (SORRY BOSS)

I will be WFH tomorrow so I'll keep an eye on him and see how he interacts with them, not gonna lie, I will prob not get to witness the very first part because ill be sleeping hehe
 
Love it. We all fumble with new stuff so no worries there :)

I'm hoping you'll share a video of the 'sun rise' in Griffin's enclosure tomorrow too!
 
regal81455 said:
Yep, my apologies, for some reason I had in my mind that these new snap in parts were integral to the bulb. You would be correct, any full power t5 would do the job.

I also harken this to breaking in a new motor, there are those that will swear you need to baby it for 500-1000miles and then there are those that swear by breaking it in the way you intend to drive it so it's worn the way it's intended to be used. Both thoughts have seen plenty of failures and successes throughout the years. Realize it might not be the same tech but it goes back to what I said above. Just gonna have to gauge how much risk you're willing to take.

Still want to hear an official response from Arcadia though. This is something that should flat out be included in their documentation if that is their official stance.
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Yes let me know what they say. Because per there manufacturer and as a standard in testing bulbs its required. I don’t think it will just kill the bulb but there is a possibility of a shorter life span and I want my bulbs to last as long as possible
 
I took my UVI today again, 2.7-4 this is with the sensor 2.5” above the branch. I totally slept in and didn’t get to experience sunrise lol
 
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