First Time Cham Parents Seek Feedback

Yoshi13

Member
My fiancé and I are first time Cham parents. We have had Yoshi for about 6 weeks. One thing we have learned from the research we have done is that preventative care is what matters most for Chameleons. We have taken the time to include as much detail about our set up as possible and would love to get some feedback from this great community about anything we are doing right, and of course what we could be doing better!!!


Chameleon Info:

o Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?

o Ambilobe Panther, 9 months old and has been in our care for 1.5 months

o Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?

o About 1x per day we take him out and let him hang out on either us or a large fern with a bamboo trellis

o Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?

o He is a picky guy. We are feeding him crickets, superworms and butterworms. Other than feeders he seems to like a little banana. I switch it up but so far am gutloading the feeders with spinach, broccoli, apple, carrot, and we use cricket water that is supplemented with calcium (the Fluker’s Cricket Quencher)

o In terms of how much we feed him, usually we leave a few crickets in the enclosure (he has been ignoring them lately) and usually a couple worms per day (either superworms or butterworms). We have been feeding hornworms every few weeks. I know that the worms are not ideal but it’s almost he eats at the moment and we try to gutload them well. Any tips on other good feeders that people have had success with would be great. We were wondering if maybe he just gets bored quick as he was all about the crickets for about a week now doesn't seem to care too much.

o Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?

o We are using Fluker’s Calcium w/D3 and Fluker’s Liquid Calcium supplement as well as Reptivite. We add the liquid calcium to his dripper and use a drop daily on our feeders

o Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?

o We do a long warm mist in the morning for at least 5 minutes and run a dripper with liquid calcium in it during the day. At night when I get home (around 5) I do another warm shower for about 5 minutes (and we spray HIM directly not just the plants)

o I’m concerned as I never really see him drink. He licks a bit but nothing special. He used the dripper at first but unless he is using it during the day while I’m not home I don’t think he is interested in it.

o Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?

o He has never been tested for parasites but we know he was captive bred and born. He usually goes about 1x per week. Sometimes there is a little bit of an orange tinge to the urate but I have read if he isn’t having movements all the time that could explain it. I also ready that feeding worms can do this. My concern is I know orange represents possible dehydration so I wasn’t sureabout that?

o History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

o Nothing in particular

Cage Info:

o Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?

o We have an Exo Terra Medium Tall (vented in the front, full mesh top) it is 60 x 45 x 60 cm / 24” x 18” x 24” (WxDxH)

o Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?

o Lights on at 7am, lights out at 9pm

o We use a 26w UVB (Exo Terra), 13w Reptivision (Exoterra) and a 75w intense basking light (Exo)

o Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?

o Basking is 90 degrees, cage temp is between 70-75 degrees

o We measure the temps with a thermometer by the basking spot at the top of the cage (90 degrees) and another barometer/thermometer on the top, back left side of the cage to measure ambient temps. I haven’t been measuring the floor but that is where we run an exo heating cable to keep the cage warm enough

o Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?

o Drops down to around 25% during the day between sprays, up normally to 70% when we do our misting/showers

o Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?

o All live plants. Pothos and Bromeliad.

o Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?

o 2 feet off the floor. Not near any fans or high traffic areas. The top of the cage is probably 6 inches from the ceiling.

o Location - Where are you geographically located?

o Burlington, Ontario, Canada


Current Problem - At present we are concerned about everything!!! We just want feedback and input to make sure we are doing things right. We have learned a lot from this forum over the past few months and are always seeking to improve life for our little guy

Thanks in advance for comments and feedback!
 

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About 1x per day we take him out and let him hang out on either us or a large fern with a bamboo trellis

Getting the chameleon out daily isn't exactly recommended. I'm not gonna be that kind of person that sits here and tells you it's wrong because to each his own.... But chameleons are solitary animals and tend to like to be left alone. Most people handle their chameleons very minimally, only getting them out when cleaning the cage, or taking it to the vet, and things of the such. Now, some chameleons don't mind being handled a little more than normal - you just have to make sure you are keeping a keen eye out for signs of stress. There are lots of different stress signals they send, just be very aware when you are handling it to make sure that he is okay with it.

Ambilobe Panther
He is a picky guy. We are feeding him crickets, superworms and butterworms. Other than feeders he seems to like a little banana. I switch it up but so far am gutloading the feeders with spinach, broccoli, apple, carrot, and we use cricket water that is supplemented with calcium (the Fluker’s Cricket Quencher)

Ok so you said it's a Panther Chameleon. Same kind I happen to own. Feeding the chameleon straight banana, or ANY kind of fruits and vegetables, is not good for them. See their official tried-and-true PANTHER CHAMELEON CARESHEET by clicking HERE. It states here as well that "Panther chameleons are insectivores meaning they should only be fed live insects." Some chameleons, such as a Veiled chameleons, eat both insects as well as plants and such. Their stomachs and digestive system are made to devour both kinds of food. This is not the case for Panther chameleons. I'm not sure of the exact 100% scientific and technical words to use here, but to put it simply: Insects and such have certain vitamins and chemicals in them, and plants and vegetables and fruits and such have other chemicals and makeup to them. They run through the digestive tract differently, and cannot be mixed if the digestive tract is not made to do that. Humans can eat both plants and meat - we are designed that way. Some animals aren't; you wouldn't give a piece of your T-Bone steak to your rabbit - you would give it a salad with carrots and greens and such. In the same way, you wouldn't give that rabbit's salad to your dog. It won't necessarily make them drop dead overnight if you feed them as such, but over time, it will cause issues with the digestive system. As for different feeders because your chameleon is picky - check out the FOOD & NUTRITION section of the RESOURCES tab at the top of the screen by clicking HERE. It tells you a little information regarding feeders, and offers some good gutload suggestions. If you want a LOT more options and info regarding feeders, then click HERE and give SandraChameleon's blog a read. AVOID THE SPINACH AND BROCCOLI when gutloading because they are low in calcium and high in phosphorus. See the link to the FOOD & NUTRITION section that I shared to get a better selection of greens to use. If using a good selection of wet greens such as carrots, apples, celery, kale, and so on....then you won't even need to use the cricket water stuff because they can get all their moisture from the offered vegetables. Do you also offer a dry gutload along with your wet gutload? There are many home recipes for gutload that you can make, and there are a few products on the market as well. It's essential to offer a dry/grainy gutload along with your fresh fruits and vegetables for optimal well-rounded nutrition. In the same way that you wouldn't want to drink a wet soda and have wet soup for every meal in your life, your insects need dry food as well to boost their health. Dry ingredients can include: bee pollen, organic non-salted sunflower seeds, spirulina, dried seaweed, flax seed and organic non-salted almonds. If you hit up @nick barta then you can buy some Cricket Crack or Bug Buffet, which is some of the best dry gutload on the market, and is used by many many people.

We have an Exo Terra Medium Tall (vented in the front, full mesh top) it is 60 x 45 x 60 cm / 24” x 18” x 24” (WxDxH)

Are you planning on upgrading the cage soon? For an adult male Panther chameleon, the minimum cage size recommended for optimal health is a 24 x 24 x 48 cage. Bigger is always better when it comes to chameleons (y)

We do a long warm mist in the morning for at least 5 minutes and run a dripper with liquid calcium in it during the day. At night when I get home (around 5) I do another warm shower for about 5 minutes (and we spray HIM directly not just the plants)
Drops down to around 25% during the day between sprays, up normally to 70% when we do our misting/showers
All live plants. Pothos and Bromeliad

Do you only mist him twice a day? The live plants in the cage should help retain humidity so that is good.... but with your humidity levels dropping to 25% during the day, that is not good. You should be misting him more than that to keep recommended humidity levels (50-80% is best, with 60-70% being perfect) An automatic misting unit is a good investment when keeping a chameleon. Not only does it provide the required humidity levels, but it automates the misting and makes it easier on the owner. It ALSO provides the chameleon with water to drink throughout the day without having to be intrusive with a hand sprayer.

All in all, I'd say you are doing okay. A bit more to learn sure, but that can be accomplished through a bit of in-depth research. I also find that [for me anyways] it helps to keep a journal of some sort with quick references to temperature levels, humidity levels, your supplement schedule, gutload material for feeders, how to raise/keep feeders... so on and so forth. I do this personally as a guide in case I ever decide to have a brain fart and forget something. I keep track of pretty much everything in it. The front of the journal is all of the good husbandry info as well as the supplement schedule I follow. The middle of the journal is where I list all of my feeders and information on how to keep them, feed them, and breed them. The back of my journal is where I keep track of the feeders I buy, and how often I buy them and such. The journal is a good idea because sometimes people take vacations or have family emergencies and you never know when you might have to have someone watch your chameleon for you. With a journal already made up, you won't have to go super in-depth explaining it to someone who doesn't already know because any info they could possible need would be in the journal (that's how it is for mine anyways (y))

Good luck on everything. Great community of help here.
 
Last edited:
Hi there,

Thanks to everyone for the feedback.

  • I just wanted to clarify that I made a type with respect to the size of our enclosure. The dimensions are actually 60 x 45 x 90 cm / 24” x 18” x 36” (WxDxH) – it is an Exo Terra Medium Extra Tall
  • Also we are planning to make the appropriate changes to our misting system and cut out any fruits (thankfully he only ate a tiny bit of banana a week or so ago). Also the tips on gut loading were great! I’ve switched back to apples and carrots. We are also adding milled flax seed for a source of dry food for the feeders now.

  • With respect to taking him out once a day, I have read about the common wisdom that Chameleons get stressed out by handling. I was looking for some more comments on this as my fiance and I have noticed that he tries to climb onto us with no prompting when we open the cage doors. The other morning he climbed onto my arm when I was moving a stick in the enclosure and didn’t want to go back. I’m sure he associates us with food. However, if he is approaching us at the door and climbing onto us without hesitation is this enough of a sign that he isn’t stressed out by being handled by us?

  • I also find this is mostly the case in the morning when he knows its breakfast time!

  • Another question, are Chameleons attracted to certain colours? I say this because we have noticed if we are wearing red he seems to be more attracted to us.
Thanks again for everyone's help :) What an awesome community!
 
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