Foggers, a Tool or a Danger?

A uv sterilizing light added to the reservoir can help with preventing anything growing in there.
Don't think that would work. Uv light the water goes through a tight cork screw. By time it came out of it probably just be puddle water.
 
Don't think that would work. Uv light the water goes through a tight cork screw. By time it came out of it probably just be puddle water.
Not sure what you mean. I’m talking about a mist water reservoir that people use in many different forms and fashions. A UV-C sterilizing light will actively prevent anything from growing in this container, the light kills bacterias and molds that would grow inside a container. That is literally what I said I just didn’t elaborate.
 
Not sure what you mean. I’m talking about a mist water reservoir that people use in many different forms and fashions. A UV-C sterilizing light will actively prevent anything from growing in this container, the light kills bacterias and molds that would grow inside a container. That is literally what I said I just didn’t elaborate.
Thought you ment on fogger my bad. If you res is black shouldn't grow anything. Mine is black and inside a base cabinet and ro water. Not slimy or anything. I use the ez store bucket black little pricey for bucket but have like 11 more spars
 
I usually clean my fogger reservoir and the base about every 10 days with vinegar and hot water and the pvc pipes the fog goes through with a Lysol that has hydrogen peroxide in it and then rinse really well. this time it’s been about 3 weeks because I’ve been so busy but I hope to get to it next week.
 
Im not sure but most fogger tubes are pointed down. Having done alot of mycology and agar work most bacteria flows down with gravity. This being said there is still a chance of things flowing in. Yet the chances are low. Many people have inoculated dishes with still air boxes with open sides. Just some more things to ponder.
 
Water in the pipes of your house is usually chlorinated so you can take that out of the equation.
Thats a good point. Althought the amount og chlorine varies alot from where you live as someone pointed out. Also you are filling the fogger with tapwater the same chlorine should have the same effect-
 
Maybe it’s a dangerous tool? Who needs safety anyway.
may be it is or maybe it isn´t maybe it is a safty that isn´t needed at all. Like an anti tiger stone if you would live in Seattle. It just feels way too much to need to be have yet and other thing with 3+ componets that you need to take apart and mental clean it ( no offence to anyone talking about myself here) several times a week. When you may not be needed to clean it at all. There is so much things with chameleon that are in so much more contact with bacteria or what not that is never cleaned, like the screen itself in their cages or the pipes or nossels of mystings systems but it is the fogger that sits outside the enclosure that needs to sterilze.
It just feels mentally straining that you got a thing to automize the animals needs so you don´t have to do all that comes with spraying several cages several times a day. But instead you get like 8 pieces for each cage that you now need tot ake apart rinze buy some kind of designfectant put toger and so on several times a week. It´s just too much and doesn´t fit the patter of everything else the animal use in captivity.
 
Just my opinion, leedragon Has a very valid point . If your water is RO and not chlorinated (as I’m on a well ) And your system is blacked out And cool how is bacteria going to survive. Along with drying out daily it has no way of taking route. I run a computer fan through my blacked out system for 10 to 15 minutes after fogger turns off . The entire system dries out . . I also have computer fans that run From about 10 AM to 3pm where my entire habitat completely dries out . temperatures in the upper 70s and 80s . I’m not sure how bacteria can form . I’m not saying it can’t and of course now this thread has given me skepticism . Until I see actual evidence of an issue . I think I’ll continue With the process I’ve decided on which is not cleaning the system at all .
 
Just my opinion leedragon . Has a very valid point . If your water is RO . And your system is dark And cool how is bacteria going to survive. Along with drying out daily it has no way of taking route. I run a computer fan through my blacked out system for 10 to 15 minutes after fogger turns off . The entire system dries out . . I also have computer fans that run From about 10 AM to three where my entire habitat completely dries out what temperatures in the upper 70s and 80s . I’m not sure how bacteria can form . I’m not saying it can’t and of course now this thread has given me skepticism . Until I see actual evidence of an issue . I think I’ll continue With the process I’ve decided on which is not cleaning the system at all , with that being said , I think foggers are our best tool in hydration . My panther Does not drink off of leaves and urates are mostly white , and my persons ignores morning mist . And drinks only in the afternoon . But they get four hours of 100% fogged Humidity every night.. i’m going with useful tool
 
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may be it is or maybe it isn´t maybe it is a safty that isn´t needed at all. Like an anti tiger stone if you would live in Seattle. It just feels way too much to need to be have yet and other thing with 3+ componets that you need to take apart and mental clean it ( no offence to anyone talking about myself here) several times a week. When you may not be needed to clean it at all. There is so much things with chameleon that are in so much more contact with bacteria or what not that is never cleaned, like the screen itself in their cages or the pipes or nossels of mystings systems but it is the fogger that sits outside the enclosure that needs to sterilze.
It just feels mentally straining that you got a thing to automize the animals needs so you don´t have to do all that comes with spraying several cages several times a day. But instead you get like 8 pieces for each cage that you now need tot ake apart rinze buy some kind of designfectant put toger and so on several times a week. It´s just too much and doesn´t fit the patter of everything else the animal use in captivity.

Just my opinion, leedragon Has a very valid point . If your water is RO and not chlorinated (as I’m on a well ) And your system is blacked out And cool how is bacteria going to survive. Along with drying out daily it has no way of taking route. I run a computer fan through my blacked out system for 10 to 15 minutes after fogger turns off . The entire system dries out . . I also have computer fans that run From about 10 AM to 3pm where my entire habitat completely dries out . temperatures in the upper 70s and 80s . I’m not sure how bacteria can form . I’m not saying it can’t and of course now this thread has given me skepticism . Until I see actual evidence of an issue . I think I’ll continue With the process I’ve decided on which is not cleaning the system at all .

I’m with you guys, especially when prior chameleons were thriving from just misting. I never cleaned my stuff other than the obvious. Cleaning everything in general is overblown, a lot of these disinfectants and soaps are more dangerous than what they’re killing IMO.

That said, with foggers, I think the concern is that it’s inhaled. This would make it easier for anything unwanted to take hold in the body I’m guessing? RO water also still has some mineral content and pretty much any water, anywhere will have some sort of bacteria in it at some point. Even with the UV sterilizer… right after the reservoir, bacteria could be colonizing. The thing is very rarely would this cause any sort of problem. Petr necas said a while back that he doesn’t clean his foggers and doesn’t have problems either.

Using distilled or RODI would be better than RO as they are pretty much completely stripped of nutrients and unlikely to grow anything harmful if kept blacked out from light. RO will still likely grow some stuff.
 
Just a question, but would taking an ATO approach be useful? In my RODI tanks I've always had either a bubbler or power heads, partially for the bugs, partially from paranoia over residual chlorine. RODI is great for chemicals and minerals, but not so great with bacteria. Infact, the systems are somewhat known to be breeding grounds for bacteria. Again, I'm not familiar with the bugs being targeted yet, but would higher O2 and/or circulation within the holding tank be of any use? Just some late night musings.
 
I had a white humidifier before I got my black petspioneer fogger. The white humidifier grew pink stuff inside, that’s why I clean my fogger weekly most of the time. I’m afraid the pink bacteria will grow in there.
 
I had a white humidifier before I got my black petspioneer fogger. The white humidifier grew pink stuff inside, that’s why I clean my fogger weekly most of the time. I’m afraid the pink bacteria will grow in there.
Which water did you use? Even when I used RO the digger would get nasty. I had to use distilled to really slow it down.
 
Just a question, but would taking an ATO approach be useful? In my RODI tanks I've always had either a bubbler or power heads, partially for the bugs, partially from paranoia over residual chlorine. RODI is great for chemicals and minerals, but not so great with bacteria. Infact, the systems are somewhat known to be breeding grounds for bacteria. Again, I'm not familiar with the bugs being targeted yet, but would higher O2 and/or circulation within the holding tank be of any use? Just some late night musings.
I used a power head in my 40g water reservoir for my parson’s. Not sure how much of a difference it made 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
Never had any kind of pink or green film nothing nasty inside my fogger but it’s always been kept in the dark inside the cabnet . And was cleaning it in the beginning . My new father is made out of a black bin with a yellow lid but is sealed also underneath the cabnet , no sunlight can get to it . I do remember pink and green algae when having fish tanks in the past all caused from sunlight coming through the window.
 
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