FOOD FIGHT!! ????

RescueMom said:
Sorry. I wasn't avoiding your question. I thought you thought I was a complete moron (I'm actually only part moron ?).

I don't give him wax worms regularly, but as you said, on occasion. The same with horn worms because he won't eat anything else.

He started eating bsfl, but won't anymore.

Same with discoids. Same with super worms.

When we WAS eating crickets, I was gutloading with carrots and mustard greens, but then changed to turnip greens (the smell ?). Also using flukers cricket quenched with calcium.

Dusting with zoomed calcium WITHOUT D3 daily.

twice a month he gets calcium WITH D3, alternating between zoomed and repashy calcium plus.

I think I answered your question ?
Click to expand...
lol.
So for your gutload you might consider switching to a commercial like repashy bug burger so it is more extensive.

Ok So he will happily take the horns then?
 
Beman said:
lol.
So for your gutload you might consider switching to a commercial like repashy bug burger so it is more extensive.

Ok So he will happily take the horns then?
Click to expand...
No problem on the bug burger! I hate messing with the vegetables ?

He loves the horn worms, but that's when he stops eating everthing else. I've given them to him two different times and it's the same thing when they're gone... Horn worms or die ?
 
RescueMom said:
No problem on the bug burger! I hate messing with the vegetables ?

He loves the horn worms, but that's when he stops eating everthing else. I've given them to him two different times and it's the same thing when they're gone... Horn worms or die ?
Click to expand...
But in the grand scheme of things horns are not a bad thing... If you look at what they have to offer nutritionally they are better then most. So if he will go for them then I would use one of these when you need to supplement. I am not as concerned about D3 as long as the lighting is correct. We can review that if you like.

But for the vitamin A here is a bit of a work around... (AND IS NOT recommended for the newbies reading this. Y'all stick to the regular supplementation.) But if your vet is saying Vitamin A is needed then here is what you can do. Buy Vitamin A gel caps. See image below. Your looking for the type that say from Retinyl Palmitate on the back in the vitamin A type. Now then you take a gel cap and poke a hole in it. Drip ONE drop of the Vit A on the hornworm and immediately feed. This should ONLY be done every 30 days and no more then one tiny drop. Vitamin A is a fat soluble vitamin so being very careful is important when using this method. Do not use any other multivitamin with Vitamin A... Herptivite would be ok to use as it does not have preformed A in it.
AGAIN not for everyone to go out and do this, it is specific feedback for this OP only pertaining to this situation.

IMG_5205.JPG IMG_5204.JPG
 
So i almost have the exact issue with my cham atm... ? hes going in to the vets on the 1st so i can finally determine the issue. I try to stick to silkworms and you REALLY have to take good care of them, same thing with hornworms. Remove dead&feces daily and seperating sizes to ensure they have enough space and DONT eat each other! Phoneix worms! [black soilder fly larvae] is one of my guys favorites right now and their higher in calcium when they turn black. Have you tried those? Ive also have gotten my guy to directly eat some greens.. ill cut it to smaller shreds and throw some down under the feeders and sometimes his tounge will snag some ?
 
Beman said:
But in the grand scheme of things horns are not a bad thing... If you look at what they have to offer nutritionally they are better then most. So if he will go for them then I would use one of these when you need to supplement. I am not as concerned about D3 as long as the lighting is correct. We can review that if you like.

But for the vitamin A here is a bit of a work around... (AND IS NOT recommended for the newbies reading this. Y'all stick to the regular supplementation.) But if your vet is saying Vitamin A is needed then here is what you can do. Buy Vitamin A gel caps. See image below. Your looking for the type that say from Retinyl Palmitate on the back in the vitamin A type. Now then you take a gel cap and poke a hole in it. Drip ONE drop of the Vit A on the hornworm and immediately feed. This should ONLY be done every 30 days and no more then one tiny drop. Vitamin A is a fat soluble vitamin so being very careful is important when using this method. Do not use any other multivitamin with Vitamin A... Herptivite would be ok to use as it does not have preformed A in it.
AGAIN not for everyone to go out and do this, it is specific feedback for this OP only pertaining to this situation.

View attachment 275086View attachment 275087
Click to expand...
Thank you! He definitely needs it!
I appreciate your help with this!
 
Beman said:
But in the grand scheme of things horns are not a bad thing... If you look at what they have to offer nutritionally they are better then most. So if he will go for them then I would use one of these when you need to supplement. I am not as concerned about D3 as long as the lighting is correct. We can review that if you like.

But for the vitamin A here is a bit of a work around... (AND IS NOT recommended for the newbies reading this. Y'all stick to the regular supplementation.) But if your vet is saying Vitamin A is needed then here is what you can do. Buy Vitamin A gel caps. See image below. Your looking for the type that say from Retinyl Palmitate on the back in the vitamin A type. Now then you take a gel cap and poke a hole in it. Drip ONE drop of the Vit A on the hornworm and immediately feed. This should ONLY be done every 30 days and no more then one tiny drop. Vitamin A is a fat soluble vitamin so being very careful is important when using this method. Do not use any other multivitamin with Vitamin A... Herptivite would be ok to use as it does not have preformed A in it.
AGAIN not for everyone to go out and do this, it is specific feedback for this OP only pertaining to this situation.

View attachment 275086View attachment 275087
Click to expand...
Yes this was recomened to me as well. Vita A deficiency was the general consensus
 
RescueMom said:
Thank you! He definitely needs it!
I appreciate your help with this!
Click to expand...
Please understand I do not give out this info without the warning that it has to be used correctly or you risk over supplementation which causes its own issues. Best of all worlds would be to get him on feeders so you can use standard and safe supplementation.. And buy reptivite with D3 which would be your multivitamin and your calcium with D3. This would only have to be used 2 times a month then calcium without D3 at all other feedings. Reptivite does have preformed A in it rather then just beta carotene.
 
Kamikaze Chameleon said:
So i almost have the exact issue with my cham atm... ? hes going in to the vets on the 1st so i can finally determine the issue. I try to stick to silkworms and you REALLY have to take good care of them, same thing with hornworms. Remove dead&feces daily and seperating sizes to ensure they have enough space and DONT eat each other! Phoneix worms! [black soilder fly larvae] is one of my guys favorites right now and their higher in calcium when they turn black. Have you tried those? Ive also have gotten my guy to directly eat some greens.. ill cut it to smaller shreds and throw some down under the feeders and sometimes his tounge will snag some ?
Click to expand...

He was eating the bsfl, but once they turned black he snubbed his nose at them like they were useless. He wouldn't even eat the actual fly when I gave him one that had "morphed".

I just got some silks from mori feeders yesterday. They're gorgeous! I'm doing what you said about keeping the ? out and the few dead ones.

My vet recommended putting a little bit of shredded kale in his bowl so maybe he'd get a bite or two when he grabbed a feeder, so its worked for you! That's awesome!
 
I second using a vitamin a soft gel like @Beman recommended. I've done this with my parsons and had no problems, and Parsons are said to be more sensitive to supplementation. So if he could handle it, a panther could(and I've used this method with my Panthers as well). Obviously be careful just using about a drop and once a month.

As for feeding, just sneak whatever you want him to eat into his mouth while he's eating something else. I've done this so many times, say they eat a superworm or whatever, I'd take a dubia and gently push it against their lips while chewing. When they feel it in their mouth they bite down and more often than not gladly eat it.
 
jamest0o0 said:
I second using a vitamin a soft gel like @Beman recommended. I've done this with my parsons and had no problems, and Parsons are said to be more sensitive to supplementation. So if he could handle it, a panther could(and I've used this method with my Panthers as well). Obviously be careful just using about a drop and once a month.

As for feeding, just sneak whatever you want him to eat into his mouth while he's eating something else. I've done this so many times, say they eat a superworm or whatever, I'd take a dubia and gently push it against their lips while chewing. When they feel it in their mouth they bite down and more often than not gladly eat it.
Click to expand...
I hadn't thought about that! they do chew with their mouths open, since they don't have the best table manners that trick really would work ?
 
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