Frustrated by constant false information.

[Dave Weldon]

http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog...een/-/18-x-18-x-36-inch-aluminum-screen-cage/

18x18x36

Howdy,

While you are at it, don't forget to get their nice drain pan that goes under that enclosure. You can read about how to drill the enclosure bottom with a few small holes to allow the used water to drain to the pan and then out to a holding bucket.

Here's the one that fits your 18x18x36: http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog...screen/-/18-x-18-x-36-screen-cage-water-tray/

The first photo shows the drain pan with the enclosure's bottom removed just to see it in place.

 

[RPCV]

The effort needed to maintain relative humidity levels is going to depend on a number of variables. As was mentioned humidity will tend to be low in northern climates during winter and the use of air conditioning could reduce or increase humidity depending on the design of the AC system. It is very difficult to predict what levels will be throughout the year so it is important to get a good hygrometer (can be had for less than $20) then supplement humidification as needed (and if needed) based on your specific conditions.

For catching the water droplets I put a dowel rod on a slight downward angle then tightly attached a twist tie with the twisty end pointing down and folded back onto itself to avoid a sharp point. Positioned the dripper so the water drops land on the dowel rod, travel down a few inches then hit the twist tie. They then fall off the twisted end of the tie and into a small plastic container (from Chinese take out) placed on the cage floor below the tie. The droplets building up on the end of the twist tie give the cham another place to drink from and the ability to aim it into a small container means less water mess for me to clean when I get home from work. There are tons of great ideas on this site for capturing water and making life easier...just thought I'd share one.

 

[Elizadolots]

It's not that hard to maintain humidity in Southern California though (which is where the OP is located). Make sure there's a healthy plant (or more depending on the size of the cage) and mist occasionally and it should be okay for 300 days out of the year. On those rare cold dry days, up the misting a bit.

The only reason it would be a problem here (I'm in SoCal too) is if the heater and air condition were in regular use. My mother in law does this. If it's hot, she's running her air conditioner, if it's cool her heater is on. If that's the case, then more attention to humidity is going to be needed.

 

[comtec101]

I edited my original post with all the changes I made to the terrarium immediately and also the changes I will be making in the near future. (changes are in parenthesis next to what I did before)

Another quick question while im here. Ive noticed since I picked up my Chameleon a few days ago that randomly she will drop her mouth about half way and leave it open for awhile. She looks pretty normal otherwise, I just sometimes see her do this and my other veiled never had this kind of behavior.

 

[Julirs]

Did you get a digital themometer to measure temps? If her mouth is open it is probably too hot still. Also-no Reptivite 5 times weekly-you need a calcium without D3 to use 5X weekly like Repcal. You are still giving way WAY too many vitamins.

Additionally-you really need to lose the glass tank-esp. in Southern CA. It will work for the shortrun-but is not nearly large enough or suited for a Veiled. Heat and excessive moisture leads to respiratory infections.

Notice my signature-I keep all of these species in an air conditioned house here in FL with no extra humidity and no issues. All screen cages with no substrate planted well with live plants.

 

[Julirs]

although there are many experienced and knowledgeable people here on cf, there is no one person post or website that has all of the answers (although raising kitty is an excellent place to start). even among experienced and knowledgeble keepers, there is often disagreement. this is why (and i have stressed this many times) that it is important to do actual research from a multitude of sources rather than just base your husbandry on a couple of posts (even if they are made by knowledgeable keepers) so you can make your own informed decisions based on what works for you, but what works for one does not necessarily work for everyone, as there are bound to be some variables in the scenario.

I think you can agree that while different things work for different people, people that have never raised chameleons before are better off going with tried and true methods BEFORE experimenting with "what works for them". Time and time again we see new people "experimenting" and shortly ending up with a dead chameleon. One also has to consider species and where one lives to make best suggestions. In this case, this is a Veiled chameleon that should not be in an Exoterra. This species is large and requires more room, ventilation, and certainly NOT high constant humidity and heat it cannot escape from.
Imagine if people just got in a car that had never driven and simply started experimenting with "what they thought would work for them"???

 

[comtec101]

Did you get a digital themometer to measure temps? If her mouth is open it is probably too hot still. Also-no Reptivite 5 times weekly-you need a calcium without D3 to use 5X weekly like Repcal. You are still giving way WAY too many vitamins.

Additionally-you really need to lose the glass tank-esp. in Southern CA. It will work for the shortrun-but is not nearly large enough or suited for a Veiled. Heat and excessive moisture leads to respiratory infections.

Notice my signature-I keep all of these species in an air conditioned house here in FL with no extra humidity and no issues. All screen cages with no substrate planted well with live plants.

Thanks for the reply Julirs. I havent got a digital thermometer yet but I did some reading waiting for a reply and found out that she could be gaping open because of excessive heat. I reduced it to a 50 watt bulb and she seems very comfortable with it now. Ill be getting a digital thermometer very soon to get more accurate temps. Is the infrared bulbs from pet store bad to use as a heat source for any reason? Just random question that came to my mind. I have 2 bottles of reptivite. One with D3 and one without. I meant I would use the one without 5 times a week but I also was reading that too much phospherus is bad so ill have to ditch that one anyways. Are you suggesting repcal as the 5x weekly calcium suppliment?

 

[Julirs]

Forget the infrared-chams associate white light with basking heat. Your run of the mill household bulbs work great-and are much cheaper! I use Phosphorous free Repcal with NO D3 5-6X weekly, Phosphorous free Repcal with D3 1-2X monthly, and Reptivite 1-2X monthly. The 2X would be for babies and juvies, the 1X is for all adults.

Did you order an screen cage?

 

[comtec101]

when you use the reptivite, do you use it with d3 or without? Havent ordered the supplies for the setup yet. Working on it though.

 

[comtec101]

Also is any source of heat used at night if an infrared bulb isnt used? I realize the temp is supposed to drop at night but I figured with the UVB bulb off at night the temp would drop a little.

 

[Julirs]

I use it with the D3-but I dust everything very, very lightly. When my crew is outside in the summer, i do not use any D3.

At night, you want no heat or light. Temps can drop down to 50 and it would be fine for an older juvie or adult. If you need to heat because of lower than 50 temps, a room heater would be best, followed by a ceramic heat emitter.

 

[comtec101]

I see. So the reptivite is there mainly for all the extra vitamins (multivitamin suppliment) right? Is the main source of vitamin A for chameleons from the multivitamin they get twice a month?

Edit: I guess vitamin A would also come from gutloading crickets with carrots and other veggies.

 

[Julirs]

I see. So the reptivite is there mainly for all the extra vitamins (multivitamin suppliment) right? Is the main source of vitamin A for chameleons from the multivitamin they get twice a month?

Edit: I guess vitamin A would also come from gutloading crickets with carrots and other veggies.

Reptivite has Vit A-and gutloading with nice healthy fruits and veggies is great! Twice a month for youngers, and once a month for adults works fine.

 

[kinyonga]

There is controversy as to whether any/all chameleons can convert the prOformed sources of vitamin A (beta carotene) or not. I give the vitamins with the beta carotene and the gutload of greens and veggies so that the chameleon will get lots of vitamins without having to worry about overdosing it with prEformed vitamin A (from animal sources, palmitate, acetate, etc.). That leaves the owner of the chameleon in control of how much prEformed vitamin A it receives and should make it less likely that it gets overdosed (I hope).