Furcifer Verrucosus Simple Caresheet

Robertc, thanks for your reply. It also crossed my mind that it may have something to do with winterrest. I also found him to be to fat when I brought him home from the store. It is a possibility he doesn't like the enclosure, but he is in a smaller one then the one he was living in in the store. That was a very large enclosure, but he was stuck with about 6 or 7 other males.
He is not very shy because he doesn't hide. He climbs around and doesn't run off when he sees us ;-). Can you tell me how often chams eat when they're in winterrest? He ate a hopper two weeks ago.. That's all I saw him eat.
 
In case it seems to you that it might be the winter rest, you can test it by decreasing the temperature of the enclosure (in case of a large enclosure it can be done probably only by decreasing entire room's temperature), while keeping the basking branch as hot as in summer. He will choose what he wants, verrucosus are pretty smart.

In winter my male eats one mouthfull a month. He is interested in eating in very sunny days only. Concerning females and babies, they did not seem to be resting so intensively, but they ate considerably less than in summer.

He may be not shy enough to hide, but still too shy to eat from your hand.
My chams usually refuse to eat when I have visitors. By a small enclosure I mean something like 200 litres.
 
I have the opportunity to buy a 3 month old cb and was wondering how you would adjust the care parameters. Currently he is in 2x2x3 wooden enclosure and would be in a 2x2x4 muji screen cage at mine if I decide to buy him. My set up is fully planted, hydra flow base and run by z microclimate prime 2 with T5 plant and uv tubes.
Basically ready to go
 
Because this species of chameleon is closely related to the Ocelots chameleon does it have a lot of the same requirements?
 
L
Hello all!
I've finally gotten to finish this caresheet. I've used my notes to construct it, so for those of you who keep them, or did once keep them and would like to give suggestions, please do so. Like I said in the care sheet, this species is very underrated and I personally love this species. So here it is; I will also have it in my blog.




Verrucosus Chameleon (Furcifer Verrucosus)​

Introduction: The Verrucosus Chameleon is a very underrated species. Most on the market today are WC, with the exception of the occaisional CH/CB juviniles that are available due to the captive breeding attempts made to create a captive collection in the US. The species is quite beautiful, with males showing a light blue and green color, with females showing brownish red colors, with rusty red coloration while gravid.
Acclimation Process: Depending on the condition of your specimen, you may need to take different courses of action, to acclimate them to captive life. When you first receive your specimen, it is best to make sure they are hydrated. The best thing to do is give it a nice long shower, to make sure it has its fill of water. After this, you need to make sure it has the appropriate enclosure setup, and once you have it in its enclosure, offer some food. Most will most likely eat as soon as you offer the food, as they are eating machines. I suggest maybe 5-7 appropriate sized food items for this feeding. During the acclimation process, it is essential to make sure your specimen is well hydrated; many times this can cause issues down the road. Once it is starting to acclimate, you should treat for parasites. Being WC, it is likely they have some in their system. It is better to treat once they have started acclimating, just because it isn’t as hard on their system to try and get rid of the parasites, and the stress from being shipped to another country, and then to your house.
Enclosure: In my observations, Verrucosus do well in either screen or glass terrariums. They both have their pros and cons. I suggest a 16X16X30 or 18X18X30 for a female, with a male in an 18X18X36 or 24X24X36. This species is very skiddish and does love to hide in the cover of their plants. Escpecially in the glass enclosures, you are able to create a very natural enclosure that your specimen will love.
General Care: I keep this species the same way I keep my Veiled. I keep it right around 87-90 at the basking spot, with the ambient temperature being right around 80-83 in the rest of the enclosure. They generally like to bask, but when they get watered, generally will go into hide mode, and will stay there until they drink their fill and go back to the basking spot after getting hydrated and needing to warm up. One thing I have noticed about this species is they LOVE to drink. I generally spray with a hand mister, for about two minutes, soaking the plants, and making sure to spray the chameleon a little to trigger a response to a “rain”. They usually will drink for about five minutes after, then go around and slowly make their way to their perch again. Depending on where the perch is, I’d recommend different size bulbs. I use two sizes, 60W and 75W; both sizes keep the temperature perfect for them at the lengths from perch to lamp distance. I also keep a Reptisun 10.0 on my Verrucosus, they are a little older, and so it is more like a 5.0.
Feeding: Boy does this species love to eat. It seems like they never stop. I feed mine 10-15 appropriate sized food items every other day, except during the acclimation process. I lightly dust them with Calcium without Vitamin D3 once or twice every week, with the Calcium with Vitamin D3 once every two weeks, as well as the multivitamin once a month.
Breeding: I had a tough time getting this species to breed. But, doing some research, I have found a method that triggered breeding processes. If your guys aren’t breeding for you, I have found that changing the “season” is a good way to trigger their lost love. Meaning, if you are giving them ample water, you slowly increase temps a little, and slightly decreasing water. After about a week of the “drier season”, I brought it back to normal. The whole process took about one month. The next day, I introduced the pair, and in about five minutes, they began copulation. Gestation is about 1-2 months, while going into 3 months is ok. Incubation is the same temperature as Veileds, room temperature is just fine (70-76 degrees). The length of time is anywhere between 6-9 months, most of the time between 6-7 ½ months.
Other Info: The worse characteristic of this species is their timidness. They are very difficult to take pictures of, because they like to hide. They also turn defensive when you are near their enclosure to feed/water/clean, which results in hissing and puffing up. But, this is the only bad characteristic.
Conclusion: This species is very rewarding, as well as underrated. Captive breeding attempts are coming together right now, to produce Captive Hatched specimens to have Captive animals on the market. By doing so, more people are most likely willing to try them, resulting more people breeding them.
 
Hello all!
I've finally gotten to finish this caresheet. I've used my notes to construct it, so for those of you who keep them, or did once keep them and would like to give suggestions, please do so. Like I said in the care sheet, this species is very underrated and I personally love this species. So here it is; I will also have it in my blog.




Verrucosus Chameleon (Furcifer Verrucosus)​

Introduction: The Verrucosus Chameleon is a very underrated species. Most on the market today are WC, with the exception of the occaisional CH/CB juviniles that are available due to the captive breeding attempts made to create a captive collection in the US. The species is quite beautiful, with males showing a light blue and green color, with females showing brownish red colors, with rusty red coloration while gravid.
Acclimation Process: Depending on the condition of your specimen, you may need to take different courses of action, to acclimate them to captive life. When you first receive your specimen, it is best to make sure they are hydrated. The best thing to do is give it a nice long shower, to make sure it has its fill of water. After this, you need to make sure it has the appropriate enclosure setup, and once you have it in its enclosure, offer some food. Most will most likely eat as soon as you offer the food, as they are eating machines. I suggest maybe 5-7 appropriate sized food items for this feeding. During the acclimation process, it is essential to make sure your specimen is well hydrated; many times this can cause issues down the road. Once it is starting to acclimate, you should treat for parasites. Being WC, it is likely they have some in their system. It is better to treat once they have started acclimating, just because it isn’t as hard on their system to try and get rid of the parasites, and the stress from being shipped to another country, and then to your house.
Enclosure: In my observations, Verrucosus do well in either screen or glass terrariums. They both have their pros and cons. I suggest a 16X16X30 or 18X18X30 for a female, with a male in an 18X18X36 or 24X24X36. This species is very skiddish and does love to hide in the cover of their plants. Escpecially in the glass enclosures, you are able to create a very natural enclosure that your specimen will love.
General Care: I keep this species the same way I keep my Veiled. I keep it right around 87-90 at the basking spot, with the ambient temperature being right around 80-83 in the rest of the enclosure. They generally like to bask, but when they get watered, generally will go into hide mode, and will stay there until they drink their fill and go back to the basking spot after getting hydrated and needing to warm up. One thing I have noticed about this species is they LOVE to drink. I generally spray with a hand mister, for about two minutes, soaking the plants, and making sure to spray the chameleon a little to trigger a response to a “rain”. They usually will drink for about five minutes after, then go around and slowly make their way to their perch again. Depending on where the perch is, I’d recommend different size bulbs. I use two sizes, 60W and 75W; both sizes keep the temperature perfect for them at the lengths from perch to lamp distance. I also keep a Reptisun 10.0 on my Verrucosus, they are a little older, and so it is more like a 5.0.
Feeding: Boy does this species love to eat. It seems like they never stop. I feed mine 10-15 appropriate sized food items every other day, except during the acclimation process. I lightly dust them with Calcium without Vitamin D3 once or twice every week, with the Calcium with Vitamin D3 once every two weeks, as well as the multivitamin once a month.
Breeding: I had a tough time getting this species to breed. But, doing some research, I have found a method that triggered breeding processes. If your guys aren’t breeding for you, I have found that changing the “season” is a good way to trigger their lost love. Meaning, if you are giving them ample water, you slowly increase temps a little, and slightly decreasing water. After about a week of the “drier season”, I brought it back to normal. The whole process took about one month. The next day, I introduced the pair, and in about five minutes, they began copulation. Gestation is about 1-2 months, while going into 3 months is ok. Incubation is the same temperature as Veileds, room temperature is just fine (70-76 degrees). The length of time is anywhere between 6-9 months, most of the time between 6-7 ½ months.
Other Info: The worse characteristic of this species is their timidness. They are very difficult to take pictures of, because they like to hide. They also turn defensive when you are near their enclosure to feed/water/clean, which results in hissing and puffing up. But, this is the only bad characteristic.
Conclusion: This species is very rewarding, as well as underrated. Captive breeding attempts are coming together right now, to produce Captive Hatched specimens to have Captive animals on the market. By doing so, more people are most likely willing to try them, resulting more people breeding them.
Very well written and informative article on their care very accurate and very professionally done.
 
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