gutload?

I use carrots apples and this commercial gutload from cricketfood.com
Seems to be working great my chams have been progressing as well as my female veiled got much healthier...

David
 
i use apples, collard greens, ground flax seeds, carrots and flukers gut load. its working really well for me right now
 
i use apples, collard greens, ground flax seeds, carrots and flukers gut load. its working really well for me right now

we tried flukers and the crix never ate it. they died before they would even concider touching teh stuff. We went to regular vegies and teh crix cant get enough they eat it up and stay alive longer.
 
flukers orange cube, collard greens, apples

my worms get a bedding made of ground whole wheat cereal, dry gutload, baby rice cereal, wheat germ, and spirulina flakes w/ apples
 
We use mostly fruits/veggies that are around, kale the most with carrots. The veggies we make available to all the feeders all the time. We also use the gutload from cricketfood.com, and put the feeders in a cup with the gutload several hours before their demise.
 
premium gut load from cricketfood.com, and I also throw in oranges, collards, kale, carrots from time to time. I use cricketfood, because it is very easy, and from what I have heard and read very good.
 
How do you guys maintain your cricket cages without the mess/stink getting out of hand? When I put fruit/dry gutload/collard greens in my little cricket cage I try to keep the dry stuff in one bottlecap and the greens in a different area but things always end up getting all mixed in with the feces, dead crickets, and spare cricket body parts (anyone need a left jumper leg? I've got plenty to go around...:) )

After no more than 2-3 days it's a mess and looks like a breeding ground for bacteria.

Is there a clean (or even halfway clean) way to house crickets for a few weeks at a time?
 
How do you guys maintain your cricket cages without the mess/stink getting out of hand? When I put fruit/dry gutload/collard greens in my little cricket cage I try to keep the dry stuff in one bottlecap and the greens in a different area but things always end up getting all mixed in with the feces, dead crickets, and spare cricket body parts (anyone need a left jumper leg? I've got plenty to go around...:) )

After no more than 2-3 days it's a mess and looks like a breeding ground for bacteria.

Is there a clean (or even halfway clean) way to house crickets for a few weeks at a time?

Not really, I turn the egg cartons over and tap them against the side, then I use a paint scraper to scrape everything to one end. Then just scoop it all out. The food dishes etc will just have to be dumped and washed out. With almost a 1000 crickets I have to do this every couple days about. One of the many downsides to owning crickets.
 
if you find one im sure there's alot of us who would be interested :) i started breeding worms specifically because crickets are too much of a PITA to keep in mass like that.

Sorry to take this off topic . . .

What type of worms are you raising? I have read that mealworms (if fed on a regular basis) can cause impaction, and Phoenix worms and Silkworms are high in fat (even though high in calcium) so you should not feed often.

Just asking, not debating . . .

Thanks

Jim
(Side not: I am raising Dubias, and also feed meal & Phoenix worms occasionally. I could not stand keeping the crickets!)
 
Silkworms and Phoenix aren't that high in fat. In fact they're quite healthy to feed often. Most other worms aren't so much though like mealworms, superworms, waxworms etc.
 
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Silkworms and Phoenix aren't that high in fat. In fact they're quite healthy to feed often. Most other worms aren't so much though like mealworms, superworms, waxworms etc.

Maybe it was that they have too high of a concentration of calcium to feed on a regular basis. I know there is something that some state is a reason not to use as a daily feeder.

Jim
 
How do you guys maintain your cricket cages without the mess/stink getting out of hand?

Is there a clean (or even halfway clean) way to house crickets for a few weeks at a time?

Check out the pictures of my cricket cage with a built-in outhouse in my gallery.

It works really well for getting them out of the poo. Of course, it doesn't do anything about the body parts, but they are easier to sweep up.
 
hey just wanted to bring up carrots in the gut load. I remember reading a cham dying a slow death because the owner was gutloading using carrots, apparently something found in carrots is also included in some gut loads and dusts' i think it has something to do with D3 but i dont remember. He was using some carrots to feed cham and gut loading and dusting, he was a smart guy and using schedules for everything but carrots did something, i dunno? anyone remember seeing this or know what it is?

Check this out guys, i use fresh dark greens and mellow fruits, i also throw in a small % of dried fruits and vegies for(made for snacks snacks but that are natural not the ones with sugars ), raisins dried berries etc. I chop them into small chunks, and freeze them in a tupperware. every other day i throw some in, if its gone the next day i use more, and vice versa, freezing them ensures water into the crix and for whatever reason i dont get the rotting leftovers stinking upo the container as i used to. i used a yogurt cup with a hole in the bottom to drip water through the screen into a very shallow dish.

i also use small bucket inside and put comercial gutload at the bottom, i come back the next day and there is aprox the amount of crix i want to use for the day in the bucket and the gutloads gone. it was too expensive to feed them all comercially, so i only use that on the ones im feeding the night before. i beleive the gutload atracts them into, and all i have to do is pull the bucket and feed, O CATCHING CRIX!


is freezing good? bad? no diff? do the dried fruit snack help anything?
 
i have supers, mealworms and waxworms. i read the supers gutload really well, they have more protein than crickets but they are kind of high in fat. silkworms are a good staple feeder but i read that the pheonix worms also are pretty high in fat and also calcium.. they should mostly be used for younger growing chams.

i cant keep dubias coz of the gf. if i get decent at worm breeding i may start to keep some silkies around but i hear they are slightly harder
 
Phoenix's I try and mix in often, they really arent that high in fat. They are hard to feed though if you dont have a worm feeder of somekind

phoenix_nutrition_chart.jpg
 
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