Hello

P

Pru

New Member
Hey,

I just found this forum and im hoping it will be a huge help to me. Im 17 (nearly 18 \o/) and Im getting my first chameleon when i can save up the money (hopefully wont be too long because im looking for a job).

Ive already worked with and own many different animals, but i dont know as much about reptiles, and i just love these little creatures to pieces. Ive joined here before i get mine because ofc with any new animal you havent looked after before you need to do your homework so you know you have all the information you need.

(reptiles arent a total unknown because i used to have 2 three toed american box turtles, but they're very different from chameleons)
 
Welcome Pru. In what part of the world are you located? My advice would be to research, research, read through this forum, ask questions, then research some more! Chameleons are not an easy animal to keep and not an inexpensive hobby to get in to. In addition to your research here, do some research on finding a good Vet in your area that is familiar with chameleons and price that out also, as exotic trips are usually quite expensive. Another thing these animals require is tons of time. You cannot usually port them off to a freinds for the weekend if you need to go away, and they generally need some sort of care at least 3X daily in the way of feeding and watering, neither of these can be accomplished by any type of bowl left in the cage. Not trying to discourage anyone, just a forewarning of the care involved. Again-welcome to the forum-it is quite addictive! :)
 
Im in england, about 40 miles north of london.

Im really looking forwards to having a chameleon. i know its alot of care but im sure it's worth it. And if i did go away for a weekend ect, i still live at home so my mum would be more than happy to lend a hand every now and then.
 
Our chameleon keeping is definitely a family affair! ;) The reason I asked where you are in the world is so that people in your area can help you out wil supplies, feeders, breeders, etc. Take some pics when you get him or her!
 
Hi Pru, your practically in the same boat as me! I am on my way to getting my set up now for a panther chameleon. I have been reccomended a good vet service that might be a little far away for you if you don't drive but I have been told they are worth using. Try looking for Animal Arc Vets. I can't really offer any experianced views as I am new to chameleons (but not reptiles in general) but i am happy to help as much as i can, just PM me if you need to ask anything.

Matt
 
I don't really know if your meant to link to other places/sites on here but i figured Its not like im spamming or anything so here is the vets that ive been reccommended to

http://www.animalarkvets.co.uk/

(let me know if im breaking rules with this one and i won't do it again)
 
I think theres a good reptile vet in the town near me, ive got to double check it all because the last time we used them was probably about 8 years ago when our turtle needed to go (we rehomed the turtles in the end, they wouldnt eat and so i gave them to the reptile keeper at paradise wildlife park in broxbourne. Thought it was better for them to go to someone more experianced with a larger range of food for them to try)

Really cant wait untill i get mine, im going to be bouncing all over the place when i do :p just have to find a job first to pay for it :(
 
Hi Pru, I just got my first chameleon yesterday, will be uplaoding photos after work this evening, I Live in Oxford which must be pretty near you.

Simon
 
Brad Ramsey said:
Linking people to other sites to help them is not breaking any rules:)

-Brad
Click to expand...

good good! I wasn't sure as im a member of a few forums and some get a bit funny if u link people off to other sites, should have known it would have been accepted here though:)
 
Caresheet:

Here is my caresheet.

Veiled and Panther Care sheet

HOUSING- Adult- With Veiled and Panther chameleons their seems to be a standard of 24(w) x24(d) x48(h). One chameleon per cage! These numbers can be tweaked slightly, such as width and depth. A chameleon cage can never be too high. I would try not to make your cage any less than 18x18, and this is if you don’t have any room. The cage should always be made up of screen. At least four sides (top, left, right, back and front) the top must always be screen because your light will be coming in from there. As far as the other four sides any choice off three is sufficient. I have found the best screen material to use is aluminum. It doesn’t rust or melt. It is also easier to see through and UV light enters the cage easier.
Juvenile- An average size juvenile cage is around an 18x18x36. This size cage is good until about the age of one year. If it is a large male you can upgrade sooner.
BABIES- newly born chameleons can be kept in a glass cage together for 7-8 weeks tops. After the age of two months they should be placed in a fully screened cage, and they can still be kept together. Once they are separated around the age of 2.5-3 months and sold they should be kept in a screen enclosure measuring 12x12x24-30. This should be suffice until the age of 6 months. Now it’s time to upgrade to a juvenile cage.
Safe Plants- Hibiscus-my favorite choice, Jasmine, Ficus Benjamina, Croton, Scheffelera Arobricola (Umbrella Plant), Photos, and Airplants. I have used all of these personally and I have found them easy to find and care for.
WATERING- most chameleons will not drink from standing water. There are rare cases that this occurs, but is not a substitute for proper watering. Proper watering should be done through a dripper all day and misting. I have found that the “Big Dripper” will go all day long if you have it dripping at one drop per second. Hand or automated misting should be done 2-3 times daily. You can use a spray bottle or buy a Pro Mist set-up for about 200$ and it does it by itself. Chameleons drink by shooting his/her tongue out at water droplets on leaves. Live plants are far superior to fake plants. They hold water droplets at the end of each leaf. Silk plants usually have the water drip off as soon as it makes contact. I have found that fake moss is a great way to supply water. If it is placed right under your dripper the water will run down to the tips of each piece. This is between 30-70 ends. Waterfalls and bowls help to harbor the growth of bacteria some of these bacteria can cause an Upper Respiratory Infection (URI), so they should be avoided at all cost.
HUMIDITY- The ambient humidity in the cage should be in the 40-50% range. With a spike of 70-80% during and after misting. This isn’t as true for Veiled Chameleons; they can be kept at a lower humidity. If you aren’t lucky enough to live in Florida a cheap humidifier from Walgreens will be fine. Try to stay away from foggers, as these can be frightening to your chameleon. Not to mention more expensive than a humidifier. Higher humidity also helps aid in the shedding process for your chameleon. Generally you will see an “explosive” shed when humidity is high. Meaning all the skin will come off at once. In lower humidity it may take days for it to come off.
LIGHTING- This is a huge area of concern to a chameleon’s health. UVB light helps with absorption of calcium to create strong bones. UVB also aids in the absorption and production of D3. Without proper UVB light a chameleon can develop MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease). The most fool proof light on the market is the Reptisun 5.0. studies have found it superior to the Reptiglo 5.0 for chameleons. Do not purchase the compact bulb. These have been known to cause eye problems, such as photo-kerato-conjunctivitis. Lights should be kept on for 10-12 hours a day. Chameleons can only absorb the UV from these lights close up. The maximum effective range is about ten inches. I have personally used the latest lighting on the market with great success, the Mercury Vapor Bulbs. They are an all in one, both heat and UVB output. The maximum effective range of these bulbs is over 12 inches. As far as temperature goes, Veiled’s are a little warmer about 95 basking temperature or what I call the “hot spot”. The “hot spot” temperature can be acquired using standard house light bulbs ranging from 45-75 watts. A household bulb admits UVA light that stimulates appetite. This should be the temperature in one area on the top of the cage and the rest should be in the 80’s. The rest of the cage should vary, and into the mid 70’s at the bottom. Panther’s should have a basking temperature around 90 degrees. Same goes for the cage having varying temperatures. Babies should always be cooler around 85 degrees max basking for both species. Remember nothing can compare to natural sunlight. The best time to put your chameleon outside is between 10 and 2 o’clock.
SUPPLEMENTING- This is a key factor in the survival of your chameleon. In captivity we do not supply the chameleon with enough feeders to meet the vitamin/mineral demands of a chameleon. So this is taken care of through dusting and gutloading. Most of the feeders we buy today are high and Phosphorous and low in calcium. There is only one way to take care of this problem. I like to use Herpcares cricket duster because it saves supplement and you don’t need to touch the feeder. Not every cricket needs to be dusted either, nor do they need to look like ghost from being covered in so much calcium. Gutloading is a term used when feeder insects are given food to eat that is rich in nutrients. There are several cricket foods on the market today that can be used. Try to stay away from potatoes because they are very high in phosphorous. There are 3 main supplements used today. My schedule looks like: Mondays and Thursdays- Calcium, Tuesdays and Fridays-Rep Cal Herptivite, Wednesdays and Saturdays- T-Rex Chameleon Formula or Mineral-All(indoor). A lot of people have their own schedule and tricks. I also rotate every week between Calcium with D3 and without D3. A chameleon can overdose and die from too much D3.
FEEDERS- Chameleons need a wide range of feeders to stay healthy. We as owners will never be able to supply them with what they would get in the wild. That is why having several staple feeders with proper supplements and gutloading is critical to the survival of captive chameleons. Some of my favorite feeders are; Crickets, roaches, super worms, Silkworms, hornworms, phoenix worms, butter worms, wax worms, and mealworms. Crickets will most likely be you main feeder, that being said they are very poor in nutritional value. They need to be gut loaded with a good cricket food and 2/3 of them should be dusted per feeding. Silkworms and hornworms are fantastic feeders; these can be placed in the cage and don’t need dusting. They are also ferocious eaters, so keep plenty of food available. Phoenix worms are great for juvenile and baby chameleons; they are high in calcium and do not need to be supplemented. They only grow to about ¾” so aren’t much good for adults.
 
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