help! energetic chameleon scratching everywehre

seifer

New Member
Cage info:
Type: glass/screen combo, I think its something like 24x24x48
lighting: some uva/uvb bulb that the pet store gave me. Its resting about 4-10 inches from where she basks.
not sure of the temp/humidity but the chameleon can get pretty close to the light if needed
theres some plant that my sister put in there for the chameleon to crawl on but she never eats it or drinks from it.
Placement: in the corner of my room
located in santa barbara, ca

Chameleon info:
type: Female veiled chameleon, about 1 year 4 months old
Handling: long story behind this one – my sister purchased the animal, never took care of it so it ended up being my mothers responsibility. The chameleon became very aggressive and no one ever held it. My mother put it in an outside cage maybe once a week but this required her to grab it (with gloves) hissing and biting. I got home from college and decided to make her friendly so I started hand-feeding her mealworms and letting her climb around my room. Now she's pretty friendly but always tries to escape. Currently she's being handled 2-3x a week.
feeding: crickets + calcium powder once every week or two, 4-7x giant mealworms daily from hand. We put some plants in from the garden (basil and other things) which she nibbles on once in a while.
Supplements: Rep Cal calcium – no phosphorous or viatmin D3 – only with the crickets
watering: We try to mist her cage but we never see her drinking. When we start to spray her she tends to hiss or try to run away from the water. I put an ice cube on the screen every other day but I never see her actually drink from it.
Fecal Description: They look solid and hard (I didn't actually touch it), one is completely white (on the log next to the light) and the other is completely black (on the bottom w/ bark)
History: I put a 12x6x4 tray of sand at the bottom of her cage about 5 days ago, as well as covering up the bottom of the cage with a blanket to see if that made her stop scratching (it hasn't stopped). She hasn't dug any holes in the sand, it just looks like she's trying to escape. She falls fairly often when roaming around my room, and falls once in a while when shes climbing up the screen wall in her cage.

Current Problem:
I am worried because she has been in our care for about a year and a half and she's never laid eggs. To my families knowledge, she is not spayed. After observing her strange behavior, I started to wonder if she needed to lay eggs or if she's just unhappy in her enclosure.
First off, she seems extremely energetic. I never see her drinking which is a problem, but she eats all the time. She always crawls on the screen and scratches at the four corners of the glass panel that faces my room. This came to the point where there is hardly any bark at the bottom corners of the cages. I also see her sometimes breathing with her mouth open.
She seems very unhappy and distressed, any suggestions?
 
I always recommend providing a suitable place for any sexually mature female egglaying chameleon to dig so that one doesn't miss the sometimes subtle signs of needing to lay eggs. Failure to provide a suitable place can lead to egg binding and death.

A veiled chameleon could lay eggs as early as 5 months of age but can also not lay any eggs depending her husbandry...it depends somewhat on her diet and the temperatures she is kept at.

An opaque container that is big enough for her to fit into with a couple of inches to spare on all sides including above and below her is the smallest size container that can be used. It should be filled at least 2/3rds full of moistened washed playsand.
 
In california, you should be using an all screen cage for better ventilation. No substrate should be used, you should remove the bark. Can you be more specific about the lighting you use? You should get a thermometer and hygrometer to measure the humidity and temperature, the cage could be too hot and she is trying to escape the heat. What type of plant is in the cage? Falling often could be the result of metabolic bone disorder, pictures will help to determine this. Breathing with her mouth open could be because it is too hot.

Please post some pictures of her and another of her setup this will help us help you.
 
Didn't have much time to reply before...so here's more information...
If you have airconditioning then the glass/screen combo cage may be fine...but otherwise she should be in a screen cage.

Can you find out the brand and type (spiral, compact, long linear tube, etc.) of the UVB bulb please?

Its important to know the temperatures in the basking area and the rest of the cage...so it would be good if you could get a thermometer.

Can you take a photo of the plant and post it please. Its important that the plants are non-toxic...even if she doesn't eat it the insects might.

The crickets can be gutloaded/fed a wide assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens) and veggies (carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, etc.) and the same greens and veggies can be offered to the chameleon served in an appropriate fashion.

Water can be provided not only by misting but by providing a dripper too. It can be a deli container with a very tiny hole in the bottom so that it drips at the rate of once or twice per second. Ice cubes are very cold and it might cool the chameleon too much. Its normal for them to dislike the misting at first each time you do it.

Urate sounds good so she must be drinking.

As I already mentioned, you need to change the size of your sand container.

You said..."She falls fairly often when roaming around my room, and falls once in a while when shes climbing up the screen wall in her cage."...this can be due to a calcium imbalance. Does she lift her body when she moves around the cage? Do her legs/arms look straight between the knees/elbows and the body, etc.?

Regarding eggs...does she show a dark background color?
Can you post a photo of her please?
 
First off, thank you for the help. I took some pictures of the cage this morning, and then moved out the sand tray (its still in the pics, but not in the cage anymore).

Today i put her outside in a box with a a screen on top. Filled with moist reptile sand plus some sticks so we'll see what happens.

I found out that I do not have the correct light bulb, we had one of the expensive ($40-50) heat lamp/basking lights but it broke so now we need to invest in a new bulb. Someone at the pet store today said i can use the spiral fluorescent tubes, but i wanted to double check here what the best light is before i bought another bulb.

i'll get a thermometer/hygrometer tomorrow with a light bulb.

The plant is a ficus, and i'm going to take out the substrate at the bottom later today.

As you can see, the cage is screened on two sides. I often have my door open and we live right next to the beach so theres alot of cool air movement.

She does lift her body when she moves around the cage, and her legs look pretty straight. She has a VERY (painfully) strong grip if thats any help.

She often has a dark background color but whenever i see her becoming active she tends to turn lighter (see pictures for contrast). Sorry for the bad quality of the pics, all i've got is my phone.

I attached some pictures of the cage, of her scratching the corner, and of her right before she went to sleep. Hope these are helpful, let me know if you would like any more pics.
 

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I don't see a UVB bulb unless it's the coil kind. Which will do damage to a chameleon. You need a tube style UVB bulb. Also whats the deal with the sand box? He is a MALE not female just FYI. I would write more but I'm leaving work hopefully someone else can help you out before I get home
 
She is a he :eek:

Also, you need alot more foliage in there, and to ditch the substrate. And get rid of the sand box, she is a he and won't need to lay eggs.

I recommend getting the reptisun 5.0 linear tube for uvb. No compacts.
 
sandbox is gone, will get a new light bulb tomorrow.

wtf??? is she really a he? can you tell just by the pics?
 
Please get us a picture of his back, it looks like there are some thermal burns.

I don't know if this was mentioned already but you need to move that light up.. those lights can get VERY hot.
 
Please get us a picture of his back, it looks like there are some thermal burns.

I don't know if this was mentioned already but you need to move that light up.. those lights can get VERY hot.

Syn is right, it does look like there are thermal burns on the back and casque.
 
well my sister was angry at the pet store when I told her that she was a he...looks like its time to change the name! i'm glad i posted pictures because i never would have known.

I noticed the burns when i started handling the chameleon, but my sister said it was because of him scraping his head...guess she was wrong.

Do i need to put anything on his back/crest to help it heal? I attached a pic, it seems pretty bad.

I know i should get a linear tube light fixture/bulb for him, but thats a bit expensive. Is it really that bad to use the coil kind? The previous light we used was the big basking light, and those are pretty expensive so i guess its worth spending the extra $$ on a tube fixture, rather than re-investing in the basking lamp.

i'm not sure exactly how i can raise the light up without making some fixture in the ceiling. Would I need to raise the light up if i was using fluorescent tubes?

After this experience i'm taking the chameleon back with me, I've learned more about this animal in a week than they have in a year. my sister/mother obviously can't take care of this animal.

As for the foliage, what would you recommend? As you can see we have the ficus in there now but i would assume a plant that has more leaves and vines would be nice....i'm just not sure what.

I still haven't seen him drink in the past 2-3 days

and finally - back to the first issue - why on earth is he freaking out at the bottom of his cage?
 

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If it looks healed (I can't really tell in that picture), and there are no open wounds, it might already be all healed up.. however a visit to the herp vet wouldn't hurt.
If the eyes aren't sunken in he is most likely drinking when you aren't looking.
Scheffleras or umbrella plants are great if you can find one big enough.
Get an EXACT temperature if possible on how hot that lamp is, please.
 
If he's become accustomed to having free-roam about your room, he may find being shut in his cage less enjoyable (if necessary). He may be wanting to roam and look for a mate. Or he may be too hot.
Definately get a quality digital (need not be expensive, just accurate) temp guage and humidity gauage (they come in combos).

And yes, the tube bulbs are better than the coiled ones (which believe it or not are not the same chemically, and have been known to cause eye damage). more about lighting: https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/68-lighting-links.html

Adding a dripper will help ensure he gets enough water. Probably he drinks when you're not watching, if the urate part of his droppings is white (not orange or yellow). A link within this blog entry describes how to make a simple dripper: https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/sandrachameleon/92-hydration-importance.html
 
You can't replace the basking bulb with the tube bulb . You need to keep the basking bulb and add the tube bulb as well. Guess what keeping chameleons properly is expensive not to attack you in anyway but if you would have done reseach you would already have known before you bought it. Good luck with your cham:)
 
I had a fake plant in my room next to my chameleon's cage one time, and she was digging at the bottom of her cage all day long. Once I moved it out of her sight, she stopped digging... Is there a window or any fake plants by your cage? Your cham could be thinking he can get it to, and therefore keeps trying.
 
The long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 UVB light is the one most often recommended.

For a basking light you can use a regular incandescent household bulb in a dome of a wattage that makes the temperature in the basking area within the right range (mid 80's).
 
male Chams tend to be more aggressive and it seems that your male wants to roam... he may be looking for a mate... this would explain his need to escape..
. find him an woman... ;)

However, I feel it may be a heat issue... bearded dragons and many other lizards open their mouths to cool down when too hot (he has burn marks so it seems this has been an issue in the past and you still have the same setup)... he may be trying to leave his cage...
In CA you need a screen cage... it just gets too hot in a glass space, especially next to a window... you said he is next to a window? is it a an eastern facing window? that will make any animal bake...

Also, he would be dead or very weak by now if he wasn't drinking so I would't worry about that...

If you cannot move up the heat lamp and the UVB lamp from the top of the cage then you can make sure the branches you have in the cage are lowered so that he can't bask against the top of the cage where he can burn...
or you can buy heating lamp stands.. they sell them at most pet stores...

Getting a tube lamp and UVB light at a pet store in CA will cost you a total of 30- 35 dollars... you need to get a repti-sun 5.0 light...the 15" one will run you 19.99 to 24.00 every 6 months....

Don't get a repti-glow light... get a repti-sun one... the repti-glow is cheaper but I have been reading up on them and they have such a minor amount of UVB in them that it would be better not to use them at all...

hope this helps...
 
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