Help! fungal infection? papillomavirus??

Mar626 said:
I have that cage size for him and I did have him in there for a while but then saw no matter what i put in the cage or on the walls of the cage he still manages to slip at times and always climbed the cage walls. Because of his clumsiness i worried that since he is still growing he might hurt himself if he slipped or fell. i figured it might be safer to keep him in a large cage until he grows more to fit into the 2x2x4. Hes 1yr and 3months old now and as big as my hand, Would now be the best time to make the switch or should i let him shed a couple more times to grow and then move in?
Click to expand...
He is clumsy because he does not have the correct UVB lighting. This is a sign of MBD. I highly recommend getting the correct lighting.

If you want we can go over all of your husbandry info if you fill out this form with detail for us.

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Chameleon Info:



Your Chameleon - Nosey Be panther chameleon, male, 1yr 3mnths. Ive had him for 11months.

Handling – I handle him nearly everday to take him outside in the sun or to help him run up my arm when he wants to get out.

Feeding – I feed him dubia roaches daily 6-10 a day every morning, they eat roach chow (brown sugar, calcium powder, and oats)

Supplements – Dust dubias and crickets with Repticalcium (without D3), repashy and reptivite 1-2x a week during a feeding.

Watering – I use a dripper onto a fo-leaf where he takes time under the drip to drink and clean his eyes. I mist every morning and every night for about 1-3 min. He drinks water daily.

Fecal Description -His droppings are normal, white part comes out firm but jelly like. Nothing runny or discolored. Has not been tested.


Cage Info:



Cage Type – He is in a large screen cage that I covered with a shower screen to protect the wall from water and to keep humidity in. 16" L X 16" W X 30" H

Lighting – UVB buld brand: Exo-terra (100w), basking: 100w zoo-med & All Living Things (Petsmart brand). On at 6am and off at 6pm

Temperature – Cage floor temp is 75* and basking temp is 85*. Over night the cage reachest about 75* usually. I measured with a point laser thermometer

Humidity – I mist him daily and try to leave some mist on the walls of the cage to keep humidity up. Not sure the %.

Placement – He is located at the corner of my room away from the door, not near a fan but as the ceiling fan moves I think the air circulates there too. Top of cage is about 5ft from the floor .

Location – USA, California
 
Mar626 said:
Is there any other UVB bulbs that can ensure he gets the correct UVB that isnt in a hood?
Click to expand...
So you need something like this. https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/t5-uvb-light-fixture.html
and this bulb https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-6-uvb-t5-reptile-bulb.html
If your going to have live plants then you need two of the fixtures one you would keep the daylight bulb in that comes with it and the other you would swap for the 6% UVB bulb.

These are lightweight and do not take up much space at all. Get the 24 inch fixture if that is the cage you will upgrade to. Then the 22 inch bulbs fits the 24 inch fixture. A little overhang right now is fine.
 
@Mar626
Chameleon Info:



Your Chameleon - Nosey Be panther chameleon, male, 1yr 3mnths. Ive had him for 11months.

Handling – I handle him nearly everday to take him outside in the sun or to help him run up my arm when he wants to get out.

Feeding – I feed him dubia roaches daily 6-10 a day every morning, they eat roach chow (brown sugar, calcium powder, and oats)
He should only be eating 3-4 feeders every other day to ensure he does not get fat. The feeders should not be given sugar or oats. I will post an image for gutload and feeders.

Supplements – Dust dubias and crickets with Repticalcium (without D3), repashy and reptivite 1-2x a week during a feeding. Ok which Reptivite are you using and which repashy. Take pics for me.
Supplements should be calcium without D3 at every feeding. Then two times a month you give a multivitamin and two times a month you give a calcium with D3 these two get rotated at one feeding week to week. Depending on what repashy and reptivite I can give you a schedule for these. But right now giving both of those 1-2 times a week this can lead to over supplementation depending on what your using.

Watering – I use a dripper onto a fo-leaf where he takes time under the drip to drink and clean his eyes. I mist every morning and every night for about 1-3 min. He drinks water daily.

Fecal Description -His droppings are normal, white part comes out firm but jelly like. Nothing runny or discolored. Has not been tested.


Cage Info:



Cage Type – He is in a large screen cage that I covered with a shower screen to protect the wall from water and to keep humidity in. 16" L X 16" W X 30" H needs a 2x2x4 minimum

Lighting – UVB buld brand: Exo-terra (100w), basking: 100w zoo-med & All Living Things (Petsmart brand). On at 6am and off at 6pm

Temperature – Cage floor temp is 75* and basking temp is 85*. Over night the cage reachest about 75* usually. I measured with a point laser thermometer temp guns are not accurate for getting real temps in a cage. You want a digital gauge with a wired probe at basking to ensure temps are not too hot.

Humidity – I mist him daily and try to leave some mist on the walls of the cage to keep humidity up. Not sure the %. You need a hydrometer to measure the real humidity levels. Panthers should have a 50-60% level during the day. Can be higher at night.

Placement – He is located at the corner of my room away from the door, not near a fan but as the ceiling fan moves I think the air circulates there too. Top of cage is about 5ft from the floor .

Location – USA, California


chameleon-food(1).jpg
chameleon-gutload.jpg
 
These are the powders I use. And I found a new build I had in store just in case. So these bulbs are useless? how com they're still sold everywhere if they aren't the best???
Ill stop feeding the roaches what i was feeding them. What are some things that can result from me feeding them sugar and oats then feeding them to my chams? I also throw in apple cores, kale, collard greens, and mandarines to get them hydrated. I mist the roaches everyday to maintain their humidity and to keep them drinking
 

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Beman said:
@Mar626
Chameleon Info:



Your Chameleon - Nosey Be panther chameleon, male, 1yr 3mnths. Ive had him for 11months.

Handling – I handle him nearly everday to take him outside in the sun or to help him run up my arm when he wants to get out.

Feeding – I feed him dubia roaches daily 6-10 a day every morning, they eat roach chow (brown sugar, calcium powder, and oats)
He should only be eating 3-4 feeders every other day to ensure he does not get fat. The feeders should not be given sugar or oats. I will post an image for gutload and feeders.

Supplements – Dust dubias and crickets with Repticalcium (without D3), repashy and reptivite 1-2x a week during a feeding. Ok which Reptivite are you using and which repashy. Take pics for me.
Supplements should be calcium without D3 at every feeding. Then two times a month you give a multivitamin and two times a month you give a calcium with D3 these two get rotated at one feeding week to week. Depending on what repashy and reptivite I can give you a schedule for these. But right now giving both of those 1-2 times a week this can lead to over supplementation depending on what your using.

Watering – I use a dripper onto a fo-leaf where he takes time under the drip to drink and clean his eyes. I mist every morning and every night for about 1-3 min. He drinks water daily.

Fecal Description -His droppings are normal, white part comes out firm but jelly like. Nothing runny or discolored. Has not been tested.


Cage Info:



Cage Type – He is in a large screen cage that I covered with a shower screen to protect the wall from water and to keep humidity in. 16" L X 16" W X 30" H needs a 2x2x4 minimum

Lighting – UVB buld brand: Exo-terra (100w), basking: 100w zoo-med & All Living Things (Petsmart brand). On at 6am and off at 6pm

Temperature – Cage floor temp is 75* and basking temp is 85*. Over night the cage reachest about 75* usually. I measured with a point laser thermometer temp guns are not accurate for getting real temps in a cage. You want a digital gauge with a wired probe at basking to ensure temps are not too hot.

Humidity – I mist him daily and try to leave some mist on the walls of the cage to keep humidity up. Not sure the %. You need a hydrometer to measure the real humidity levels. Panthers should have a 50-60% level during the day. Can be higher at night.

Placement – He is located at the corner of my room away from the door, not near a fan but as the ceiling fan moves I think the air circulates there too. Top of cage is about 5ft from the floor .

Location – USA, California


View attachment 273255View attachment 273256
Click to expand...

This is great.. really snails? I have never heard of using them as a feeder. Has anyone tried ? We have loads in our new garden, but i always presumed they would be too slimy for them
 
Rufi0 said:
This is great.. really snails? I have never heard of using them as a feeder. Has anyone tried ? We have loads in our new garden, but i always presumed they would be too slimy for them
Click to expand...

Snails are excellent feeders. The eggs should be separated from the wild snails though to avoid the risk of rat lungworm that snails/slugs have been known to carry.
 
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