Help! I'm Getting a Chameleon!

[TheAmazingGerby]

Hello. I am new to the chameleon world. I've done a bunch of research on how to care for chameleons, what they need, etc. (Basically I know the basics.) Sometime next month, I will be getting a juvenile veiled chameleon from a pet store. I'm not too sure whether it'll be male or female. I understand what I'll need if it's a female and the extra care that goes along with having a female chameleon.

I was wondering if anyone could tell me their experiences with getting a chameleon, what I'll need to know that some websites don't tell you about, and recommendations on cage set-up, how much to feed a juvenile--I know it depends on the age and etc. (And anything else.)

I appreciate the help very much. I want to learn as much as possible before I get a chameleon so I can be a good mom to it!

-I live in Wisconsin, so it's usually cool, but humid in the summers
-I plan to keep the chameleon in a family room/bedroom that is not often used
-There is a large window in the room that I plan to keep it in
(I feel like I forgot a lot of stuff. Sorry!)

 

[XxSepiorxX]

Hello, and welcome to the Chameleon Forums! I will mainly tell you about climate and heath, since that is mostly what I know about. The temperature of the cage should be between 80-90 degrees in the cage during the day, and 70 during the night, so don't forget temperature. Climate is tied with health, so please watch like a hawk for any unusual things with your chameleon. Chameleons take some time to show symptoms, so by the time you notice symptoms, the chameleon may already be very sick. One of the worst, but easiest dieases for a chameleon to catch is MBD, a bone disease that is caught just from not getting enough calcium. What happens is the chameleon starts to take calcium from the bones, making it weak and immobile. Here is a picture:

It is not contagious, luckily. So watch out for that, and other diseases. One more thing, do not buy a FULLY glass cage. A mixed or mesh cage is better. Fully glass cages can lead to respiratory disease. The humidity should be a little tropical, that is what I did with mine. My chameleon died last year, the Tuesday on the week of Christmas. He passed away, living for 2 years. My chameleon was a little sick when I got him, but I got him back to being healthy.
This is just heath and climate, but good luck!

 

[TheAmazingGerby]

Hello, and welcome to the Chameleon Forums! I will mainly tell you about climate and heath, since that is mostly what I know about. The temperature of the cage should be between 80-90 degrees in the cage during the day, and 70 during the night, so don't forget temperature. Climate is tied with health, so please watch like a hawk for any unusual things with your chameleon. Chameleons take some time to show symptoms, so by the time you notice symptoms, the chameleon may already be very sick. One of the worst, but easiest dieases for a chameleon to catch is MBD, a bone disease that is caught just from not getting enough calcium. What happens is the chameleon starts to take calcium from the bones, making it weak and immobile. Here is a picture:View attachment 178225
It is not contagious, luckily. So watch out for that, and other diseases. One more thing, do not buy a FULLY glass cage. A mixed or mesh cage is better. Fully glass cages can lead to respiratory disease.
This is just heath and climate, but good luck!

Thank you so much. That's very helpful. I plan on buying a full mesh cage because I've read that it's better for ventilation.

 

[FancyRaptor]

Just know that they take patience. It takes time to do everything with them and self control. You need to keep yourself from constantly poking in for the first little while. Let them adjust to the new environment. Also know that they aren't pets that generally like to be handled. Usually they want to be left alone and will tolerate mild and occasional handling. Good luck with your purchase. Ask to hold it if you are going to a pet shop. Also shop around on the sponsors here and check out what they have. Know that they are there if you can't seem to find a nice, healthy chameleon. Also I would recommend avoiding pet stores (especially Petsmart or Petco) unless they are truly a good one.I got mine from a local pet store but that was after seeing a bunch of babies come in from a local breeder and getting one of them 6 months later. I was in there at least once every two months so I got to watch them grow up and see that they were healthy the whole time. Good luck with your new friend though and have fun having an empty wallet!

 

[Graves923]

https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/food/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/

Check these links out. Follow the caresheet 100% and you should be fine. If you are buying from a pet store, really inspect the chameleon before purchasing. Check for sunken or closed eyes while the lights are on, crooked or bent/twisted legs or casque.

As mentioned above, insufficient calcium supplementation is a common cause for MBD (metabolic bone disease) but also lack of proper UVB exposure and lack of D3 supplementation. D3, if I remember correctly, allows the chameleon to absorb calcium to repair and strengthen bone and other organs. UVB is necessary for the chameleon to produce its own D3. Since most keepers do not keep there chameleons outside in the natural sunlight, we need to add D3 to there diet since a UVB bulb will not be sufficient enough for the cham to produce enough D3 on its own.

You mentioned keeping your future cham near a window. Remember that UVB rays from the sun are blocked by glass so placing the cage in a window is not a substitute for using a UVB light.

The other big thing to set up properly and not shortcut is hydration. Have a proper misting system (such as Mist king or Climist) or be able to hand mist atleast 3 times per day for about 3-4 minutes each. This allows the cham time to be stimulated to drink and clean its eyes. Don't be worried too much if you dont see the cham drinking in front of you as they can be shy. I've only seen mine drink twice in the last 3 months. Also, if you have to hand mist, it's a good idea to have a dripper set up so the cham has access to water at all times.

Its a lot or information, but take your time to absorb the info and ask questions! The members on this forum are very helpful and there are alot of great articles in the resource section if you haven't already read through them.

 

[TheAmazingGerby]

https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/food/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/

Check these links out. Follow the caresheet 100% and you should be fine. If you are buying from a pet store, really inspect the chameleon before purchasing. Check for sunken or closed eyes while the lights are on, crooked or bent/twisted legs or casque.

As mentioned above, insufficient calcium supplementation is a common cause for MBD (metabolic bone disease) but also lack of proper UVB exposure and lack of D3 supplementation. D3, if I remember correctly, allows the chameleon to absorb calcium to repair and strengthen bone and other organs. UVB is necessary for the chameleon to produce its own D3. Since most keepers do not keep there chameleons outside in the natural sunlight, we need to add D3 to there diet since a UVB bulb will not be sufficient enough for the cham to produce enough D3 on its own.

You mentioned keeping your future cham near a window. Remember that UVB rays from the sun are blocked by glass so placing the cage in a window is not a substitute for using a UVB light.

The other big thing to set up properly and not shortcut is hydration. Have a proper misting system (such as Mist king or Climist) or be able to hand mist atleast 3 times per day for about 3-4 minutes each. This allows the cham time to be stimulated to drink and clean its eyes. Don't be worried too much if you dont see the cham drinking in front of you as they can be shy. I've only seen mine drink twice in the last 3 months. Also, if you have to hand mist, it's a good idea to have a dripper set up so the cham has access to water at all times.

Its a lot or information, but take your time to absorb the info and ask questions! The members on this forum are very helpful and there are alot of great articles in the resource section if you haven't already read through them.

This was a lot of help for me! Thank you so much. I love how helpful everyone is on this site, it's really refreshing.

 

[Nursemaia]

XxSepiorxX you shouldn't be giving out advice. You came to this forum because you had a sick cham and then argued with everyone when we told you it had MBD and what you needed to do to care for it properly. You even argued with the resident vet who told you it had MBD and now it died. Big surprise

 

[jajeanpierre]

Hello. I am new to the chameleon world. I've done a bunch of research on how to care for chameleons, what they need, etc. (Basically I know the basics.) Sometime next month, I will be getting a juvenile veiled chameleon from a pet store. I'm not too sure whether it'll be male or female. I understand what I'll need if it's a female and the extra care that goes along with having a female chameleon.

I was wondering if anyone could tell me their experiences with getting a chameleon, what I'll need to know that some websites don't tell you about, and recommendations on cage set-up, how much to feed a juvenile--I know it depends on the age and etc. (And anything else.)

I appreciate the help very much. I want to learn as much as possible before I get a chameleon so I can be a good mom to it!

-I live in Wisconsin, so it's usually cool, but humid in the summers
-I plan to keep the chameleon in a family room/bedroom that is not often used
-There is a large window in the room that I plan to keep it in
(I feel like I forgot a lot of stuff. Sorry!)

Do yourself a favor and buy a male. Females have a short, rough life and usually die prematurely from reproductive issues. It is almost inevitable for veiled females and possibly panthers. There are other interesting captive bred species besides veileds and panthers, too, so do explore other species.

Avoid wild caughts--and pet shop veileds could very well be wild caughts from Florida--since they are usually too difficult for novices because of all the neglect and abuse they suffer during the capture and import process. I would even avoid wild caught Jacksons and veileds from the US.

Another reason I would avoid veileds is that they wholesale for about $9 and there is no way a breeder can raise healthy babies at that price. My feed bill would be more than $9, let alone raising up a healthy female. Many commercially bred veileds hatch calcium deficient to the point they basically hatch with MBD. I've also been told that most commercial breeders cull the female after one clutch because she is in too poor health (poor nutrition, etc.) to produce more than one clutch of eggs.

There are many breeders of different species of chameleons. Many species are quite easy to care for. Rare species aren't necessarily more expensive. I believe keeping chameleons isn't rocket science--you learn what they need and give it to them. I'm sure you could find a good veiled breeder, but I wouldn't be looking for a well cared for veiled baby in a pet shop.

I wholeheartedly support @Graves923 suggestion of getting a proper automatic misting system. Nothing beats the fine mist of a mister and it can be turned on when you are not around so the chameleon will enjoy it without worrying about you eating him.

Humidity/hydration is a big problem with captive chameleons and an automatic mister solves that problem.

Chronic dehydration causes kidney failure which can also cause MBD. Lack of calcium and proper lighting (for the production of D3) are not the only cause of MBD.

I like that you will be exposing him to natural light. Although he won't receive the benefits of UVB since it is blocked by the glass, he will get a the full spectrum of light. I've found my chameleons are MUCH happier when exposed to natural light. I try to get the outside in natural light as much as I can and find a huge difference in their attitude. I don't think they really like being under artificial lights. I have arguably the best lights on the market (Arcadia) and I still think they hate them. (I have a large collection of mostly wild caught animals. My observations on natural lighting affecting their moods is not limited to a few animals.)

Stress is a huge killer of chameleons. Stress is an unseen physiological response to stressors. A stressor can be anything from poor nutrition, improper temperatures, parasites, or a fear-inducing episode. It can be acute--you grabbing the animal--or it can be chronic such as being housed without enough cover to feel safe or poor nutrition. It isn't an emotion, it is a cascade of hormones. One of those hormones, cortisol, suppresses the immune system which is why stressed animals are more likely to get sick.

Hope that helps and doesn't discourage you! They are very rewarding animals and a joy to watch.

 

[TheAmazingGerby]

Do yourself a favor and buy a male. Females have a short, rough life and usually die prematurely from reproductive issues. It is almost inevitable for veiled females and possibly panthers. There are other interesting captive bred species besides veileds and panthers, too, so do explore other species.

Avoid wild caughts--and pet shop veileds could very well be wild caughts from Florida--since they are usually too difficult for novices because of all the neglect and abuse they suffer during the capture and import process. I would even avoid wild caught Jacksons and veileds from the US.

Another reason I would avoid veileds is that they wholesale for about $9 and there is no way a breeder can raise healthy babies at that price. My feed bill would be more than $9, let alone raising up a healthy female. Many commercially bred veileds hatch calcium deficient to the point they basically hatch with MBD. I've also been told that most commercial breeders cull the female after one clutch because she is in too poor health (poor nutrition, etc.) to produce more than one clutch of eggs.

There are many breeders of different species of chameleons. Many species are quite easy to care for. Rare species aren't necessarily more expensive. I believe keeping chameleons isn't rocket science--you learn what they need and give it to them. I'm sure you could find a good veiled breeder, but I wouldn't be looking for a well cared for veiled baby in a pet shop.

I wholeheartedly support @Graves923 suggestion of getting a proper automatic misting system. Nothing beats the fine mist of a mister and it can be turned on when you are not around so the chameleon will enjoy it without worrying about you eating him.

Humidity/hydration is a big problem with captive chameleons and an automatic mister solves that problem.

Chronic dehydration causes kidney failure which can also cause MBD. Lack of calcium and proper lighting (for the production of D3) are not the only cause of MBD.

I like that you will be exposing him to natural light. Although he won't receive the benefits of UVB since it is blocked by the glass, he will get a the full spectrum of light. I've found my chameleons are MUCH happier when exposed to natural light. I try to get the outside in natural light as much as I can and find a huge difference in their attitude. I don't think they really like being under artificial lights. I have arguably the best lights on the market (Arcadia) and I still think they hate them. (I have a large collection of mostly wild caught animals. My observations on natural lighting affecting their moods is not limited to a few animals.)

Stress is a huge killer of chameleons. Stress is an unseen physiological response to stressors. A stressor can be anything from poor nutrition, improper temperatures, parasites, or a fear-inducing episode. It can be acute--you grabbing the animal--or it can be chronic such as being housed without enough cover to feel safe or poor nutrition. It isn't an emotion, it is a cascade of hormones. One of those hormones, cortisol, suppresses the immune system which is why stressed animals are more likely to get sick.

Hope that helps and doesn't discourage you! They are very rewarding animals and a joy to watch.

Thanks for all of the help! I've been planning on getting a male, but I'm okay with getting a female. I'm just trying to be the best cham mom that I can be. I'm going to be getting the cage soon. I'm planning on acclimatizing it before I get my cham. Would you or anyone recommend that? I just what the humidity and temp to be just right when I get me cham.

 

[kinyonga]

You need a UVB light so your chameleon can produce D3so it can use the calcium in its diet. Appropriate temperatures allow for proper digestion so there should be a basking area to provide a temperature in the low 80's F in one area of the cage for a baby. It can be a regular incandescent household light bulb of a wattage that provides the right temperature.

Since most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous it's recommended to dust the insects just before feeding them to the chameleon with a phosphorous-free calcium powder at almost all feedings.

To ensure the chameleon gets some D3 it's recommended that you dust twice a month with a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder. This leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of its d3 from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues which is why we only use it twice a month.

We recommend that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. Vitamin A from prEformed sources can build up in the system and lead to problems but prOformed sources won't. This means that you can give preferably when you feel it's necessary without worrying about overdosing it the rest of the time.

It's also iimportant to feed/gutload your insects well. For crickets, superworms, roaches, locusts you can use a wide assortment of greens and veggies such as dandelion greens, kale, escarole, endive, collards, carrots, zucchini, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper and a bit of fruit such as pears, apple, berries, melon.

Water can be provided by misting and using a dripper a couple of times a day. Let the cage dry out before the lights go off.

In the area you live in I would not put the cage by the window. It can lead to respiratory problems.
Using an all screen cage will make it more difficult to keep the temperatures right in the winter and tonkeep the humidity up then too....but then glass cages can have other problems. I live in Ontario and I have used the exo Terra's with screen lids and vents in the front and they work well for me.

 

[XxSepiorxX]

XxSepiorxX you shouldn't be giving out advice. You came to this forum because you had a sick cham and then argued with everyone when we told you it had MBD and what you needed to do to care for it properly. You even argued with the resident vet who told you it had MBD and now it died. Big surprise

There goes some more people trying to get me banned lol.