There are so many different opinions out there including some that say Jackson's need no supplements except calcium, so with that in mind even though I am using the LoD, I still use it very lightly only about once a week or sometimes twice. I use some Repashy Calcium NoD lightly in between but also skip dusting altogether sometimes. I honestly don't have an EXACT schedule as I feel a little "randomness" is a good thing! I have always felt that less is better when it comes to supplements with these guys especially since I go to a lot of trouble to gutload really well. I have only had two Jackson's but my last boy lived 5 years and 10 months in my care (and he was a young adult when I got him) and my latest boy is thriving, so I can't be too far off! Although I didn't always have the LoD formula, I supplemented in a similar way with the last boy but even lighter on the vitamins. I also use a uv bulb.
Help needed - Jackson chameleon supplementation
- Thread starter mtooke
- Start date
There are so many different opinions out there including some that say Jackson's need no supplements except calcium, so with that in mind even though I am using the LoD, I still use it very lightly only about once a week or sometimes twice. I use some Repashy Calcium NoD lightly in between but also skip dusting altogether sometimes. I honestly don't have an EXACT schedule as I feel a little "randomness" is a good thing! I have always felt that less is better when it comes to supplements with these guys especially since I go to a lot of trouble to gutload really well. I have only had two Jackson's but my last boy lived 5 years and 10 months in my care (and he was a young adult when I got him) and my latest boy is thriving, so I can't be too far off! Although I didn't always have the LoD formula, I supplemented in a similar way with the last boy but even lighter on the vitamins. I also use a uv bulb.
mtooke
Member
Sorry if this sounds stupid, but the Reptivite has both vitamins and calcium in, so that should be given once a month, right?
mtooke
Member
Brilliant - thank you.
mtooke
Member
@JacksJill, @AZChamFan, I need your help if possible please.
So I've had Tatu (my Jacksons chameleon) for two weeks now and he has been fine, up until yesterday. He was fine yesterday morning, but this morning (around 7.30am) and by the time I got home yesterday evening, his eyes were shut. I get home at 5.15pm, and he doesn't normally get in his sleep position until around 6.15-6.30pm, with his lights going off shortly afterwards. He hasn't been scratching them, just sitting with them closed. There's no discharge or crusting on or around the eye itself. He's moving around in the viv, and has been eating and drinking. He didn't move much this morning, but we did have a cooler evening, so wonder if that had something to do with it, although his heat lamp was on very low all night.
He's still showing his lovely colours as well (he's only 7-8 months old).
I've got the following set-up:
Because of where I live (Cambridge, UK), and the fact that we live in an old Victorian house (which can get cold at times), we don't get a lot of sunshine here, so I can't have him outside much during the autumn/winter/spring seasons. Once summer comes, and guaranteeing we have good hot weather, I can have him outside in a mesh viv, similar to the ReptiBreeze. I'm wondering whether he may need more vitamin D3 supplement due to the conditions in the UK - what are your thoughts?
Also, the guys in the shop where giving him and the other Jacksons Nutrobal, which has a lot of vitamin D3 and phosphorus in. I believe they were giving this to them 2-3 times a week. With me changing the supplements over to the care sheet and your recommendations, would you say that this might of had something to do with it?
I've attached some photos of him - most with his eyes open and looking well; one with his eyes closed in the viv, and the other of his viv set-up.
Any help and advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Michelle
So I've had Tatu (my Jacksons chameleon) for two weeks now and he has been fine, up until yesterday. He was fine yesterday morning, but this morning (around 7.30am) and by the time I got home yesterday evening, his eyes were shut. I get home at 5.15pm, and he doesn't normally get in his sleep position until around 6.15-6.30pm, with his lights going off shortly afterwards. He hasn't been scratching them, just sitting with them closed. There's no discharge or crusting on or around the eye itself. He's moving around in the viv, and has been eating and drinking. He didn't move much this morning, but we did have a cooler evening, so wonder if that had something to do with it, although his heat lamp was on very low all night.
He's still showing his lovely colours as well (he's only 7-8 months old).
I've got the following set-up:
- Vivarium: Vivexotic Viv+ Arboreal Vivarium - Medium measuring 86x49x91.5cm
- Lighting: 2 x Exo Terra Repti Glo 10.0 tubes
- Heat source: Komodo Ceramic Heat Emitter 100w (I think it's this one - will double check when I'm home at lunchtime)
- Temperature: Have the main heat source set at 23 degrees celsius, with his basking spot getting up to 29 degrees celsius, and the his coolest being around 20 degrees celsius.
- Humidity: Can be anything between 50-90% throughout the day.
- Plants: A real ficus and a plastic hanging ficus.
- Food and supplementation: Giving him 3-4 crickets 5 times a week, and giving him two fast days. Three times a week I give him crickets dusted with ZooMed's Repticalcium without D3, and once a month I am giving him ZooMed's Reptivite on crickets. He won't touch waxworms - I don't think the shop I brought him from gave them to him either.
- Water: Using ZooMed ReptiSafe in sprayer and in Exo Terra Large leaf dripper. Spraying for around 5-10 minutes in the morning, and again in the late afternoon/early evening. I am debating as to whether i should get a misting/fogger system as well.
- Handling: He doesn't mind being handled once he's out of the viv, just doesn't like it when I'm in there trying to get him to walk on my hand or moving something/spraying.
Because of where I live (Cambridge, UK), and the fact that we live in an old Victorian house (which can get cold at times), we don't get a lot of sunshine here, so I can't have him outside much during the autumn/winter/spring seasons. Once summer comes, and guaranteeing we have good hot weather, I can have him outside in a mesh viv, similar to the ReptiBreeze. I'm wondering whether he may need more vitamin D3 supplement due to the conditions in the UK - what are your thoughts?
Also, the guys in the shop where giving him and the other Jacksons Nutrobal, which has a lot of vitamin D3 and phosphorus in. I believe they were giving this to them 2-3 times a week. With me changing the supplements over to the care sheet and your recommendations, would you say that this might of had something to do with it?
I've attached some photos of him - most with his eyes open and looking well; one with his eyes closed in the viv, and the other of his viv set-up.
Any help and advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks, Michelle
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mtooke
Member
Lunchtime update:
He was walking around fine with eyes open - had him out for about 10 minutes and he ate a cricket from the tweezers no problem.
He sat for a minute with eyes shut, but soon started moving again.
Have given him a good misting so maybe he is just a bit dehydrated. Will keep up with this and see how it goes.
mtooke
Member
You give them plain calcium without vitamin D3, other vitamins and phosphorus every day? I understood it to be 2-3 times a week.
Have you got a Jacksons? If so, how long have you had him/her for?
Thanks.
I would be concerned about the two repti glow 10.0 bulbs. I can't imagine him needing more than one of those. I have a single repsti sun 10.0 on my Jackson's and he can only get within about 13" of it - if he could get closer I'd only have a single 5.0. In addition I have 2 regular full spectrum flourescents. I would replace one of yours with a good full spectrum bulb which should give him more visible light and not so much uvb. It is possible his eyes are being affected by the current light output.
I'm not familiar with the Nutrobal but it doesn't sound good to me!
Why a heater at night? How cold will he get without any additional heat at night? He would probably be better off with no heat at night unless he would get really cold such as below 50 F.
If you're using a ceramic emitter during the day for basking, I would switch to a white bulb - either a regular household bulb or a spot lamp type. This will give him more light and mimic a natural basking spot better.
You're daytime basking and ambient temperatures sound very good to me - almost identical to mine.
I'm not familiar with the Nutrobal but it doesn't sound good to me!
Why a heater at night? How cold will he get without any additional heat at night? He would probably be better off with no heat at night unless he would get really cold such as below 50 F.
If you're using a ceramic emitter during the day for basking, I would switch to a white bulb - either a regular household bulb or a spot lamp type. This will give him more light and mimic a natural basking spot better.
You're daytime basking and ambient temperatures sound very good to me - almost identical to mine.
mtooke
Member
Thank you @AZChamFan - I will look into updating the light and the heat bulb so he can be more comfortable.
When I had my panther, I had a spotlight bulb, which was perfect. Was surprised when the shop sold me this one for him.
What full spectrum fluorescent would you suggest please? Also, what spot bulb would you suggest?
The heat in the house can get down to 10 degrees Celsius at night, so I have the heat emitter on for that reason.
Sorry. Haven't been on the forum much lately. His basking temp is a bit hot for a juvenile. I agree he may be getting too much UVB. New lights can put off even more UVB initially especially the first 10 days.
I don't think this is a supplement change issue as they tend to become a problem over more time and you are on track with them.
As above you probably don't need the heat emitter all night just thru the coldest hours like 2-6 am depending on your house.
Good Idea to increase the misting. Hydration is almost always a good idea.
I don't think this is a supplement change issue as they tend to become a problem over more time and you are on track with them.
As above you probably don't need the heat emitter all night just thru the coldest hours like 2-6 am depending on your house.
Good Idea to increase the misting. Hydration is almost always a good idea.
mtooke
Member
Thank you so much to both of you for the advice. Am going first thing tomorrow to sort the lighting issues out.
Will continue to mist more than twice a day for 5-10 minutes and let you know how he gets on. Thank you again.
I really don't have any strong recommendations for the full spectrum fluorescent - I've used various brands. You want something preferably with a high color rendering index and something towards the daylight end of the spectrum, although personally I prefer something with a slightly lower kelvin to offset the very bluish uv bulb. A bulb in the 4,000k to 5,000k range should compliment things nicely. This is mainly personal preference. I should also mention I do not use live plants so someone else may have a better recommendation for plant growth. Regarding the basking bulb - almost any white bulb will do. Just don't let them sell you a mercury vapor or red bulb! One thing that's extremely nice to have is a dimmer for this bulb so you can really fine tune your basking temperature. My guy was about the size of yours when I got him and he spent a lot of time basking right from the beginning so I kept his basking temp at about 84. However if your guy spends very little time basking it could mean that it's too warm and you'd want to lower it a few degrees. The best thing is to be very observant - if he spends a good amount of time basking then your temperature is most likely not too warm.
mtooke
Member
Thanks for the info. Sorry if I'm sounding stupid here, but when you say fluorescent tube light, do you mean one from a homeware store, or is there such a thing as a chameleon one? Never had to do this before, so a little unsure as to what sort to get.
Thanks, Michelle
There are these types of bulbs made especially for terrariums, etc. but I've always used those that I found at homeware stores. Even they usually have a selection of different qualities. I just wouldn't get an ordinary cool white for example. Not because it would hurt anything, but because you can get better quality which will produce a better spectrum. A higher color rendering index usually means a better bulb. They should also tell you kelvin ratings, etc. This bulb is not as critical as your uvb bulb. Sorry I can't help more - maybe someone has a brand name bulb for this purpose that they could recommend? Once again it might even be beneficial for you to get a bulb that's also great for plants but I am not familiar with those! Maybe someone else will chime in?!!!
mtooke
Member
That's great, thank you so much for your help. I'll have a good look this morning and see what's at my local homeware store, and I'll have a look in the pet store I got him from. Will also get a basking spot light and see how we go.
Thank you so much again for all your help. I'll keep you posted on how he's doing. In the next couple of days.
Thanks again.
leedragon
Chameleon Enthusiast
had have Jacksons in the pass, jacksonii jacksoniis. Adults should be fed about every other day or every 3 Days, not every day so the clacium would not be given everyday but every feeding.
Plain clacium as far as I know can not be over supplemented. due is water soluble and can be excreted if it is in overflow in the system.
mtooke
Member
Hi everyone, sorry for the long message, but wanted to update you on what was going on.
So, on Saturday I went to the place I purchased him and the whole set-up from and spoke to the manager. I explained what had been going on with him and that I need to update the lighting and heating set-up, to which he told me that they have a similar set-up in the shop (similar to a panther's set-up I might add!), and he said that he thinks I'm over-analysing and over-complicating it! I couldn't quite believe what he was saying. I mentioned about the Nutrobal and that I have moved to using the ZooMed ones previously stated, and he said because you are moving his UVB lighting from 10 to 5, you will need to give him D3 EVERYDAY! I said that he was wrong, and if you read care sheets from any reputable Jackson/reptile website then you will see that this is highly dangerous for them. He seemed to disagree, and also said that I had been misting him too much. Said that I had to mist in the morning then let it completely dry out, and give him a short misting in the late afternoon. He also said to take out the dripper because it wasn't helping with the humidity. He said the breeder he got them from didn't mist them as often because he found that their eyes would play up, same as what's happening to mine. So, I said I was willing to try anything to make him better, and got the bits below.
I have changed his heat emitter to a Exo Terra Daylight Basking Spot 100W which is on a thermostat and seems to be doing the job. As soon as he saw the basking light come on he was straight under it and stayed there for a lot of the day. I have added two ReptiGlo 5's in the viv (I can't unfortunately have different bulbs running on the same lighting system), and he seems to be moving around, eating, and pooping a lot more now, which is great to see. He's still has his eyes closed, but not as long as he was the other day, so I think he's nearly there, fingers crossed! If he still doesn't seem 100%, then I will get a two separate light units and run different fluorescents off each one.
I've only had him two weeks, and it's been the most stressful two weeks ever! I just want to make sure that everything is right for him so he's not suffering - I'm sure you all understand.
Again, will keep you posted on what happens over the next few days.
Thanks again for all your help.
So, on Saturday I went to the place I purchased him and the whole set-up from and spoke to the manager. I explained what had been going on with him and that I need to update the lighting and heating set-up, to which he told me that they have a similar set-up in the shop (similar to a panther's set-up I might add!), and he said that he thinks I'm over-analysing and over-complicating it! I couldn't quite believe what he was saying. I mentioned about the Nutrobal and that I have moved to using the ZooMed ones previously stated, and he said because you are moving his UVB lighting from 10 to 5, you will need to give him D3 EVERYDAY! I said that he was wrong, and if you read care sheets from any reputable Jackson/reptile website then you will see that this is highly dangerous for them. He seemed to disagree, and also said that I had been misting him too much. Said that I had to mist in the morning then let it completely dry out, and give him a short misting in the late afternoon. He also said to take out the dripper because it wasn't helping with the humidity. He said the breeder he got them from didn't mist them as often because he found that their eyes would play up, same as what's happening to mine. So, I said I was willing to try anything to make him better, and got the bits below.
I have changed his heat emitter to a Exo Terra Daylight Basking Spot 100W which is on a thermostat and seems to be doing the job. As soon as he saw the basking light come on he was straight under it and stayed there for a lot of the day. I have added two ReptiGlo 5's in the viv (I can't unfortunately have different bulbs running on the same lighting system), and he seems to be moving around, eating, and pooping a lot more now, which is great to see. He's still has his eyes closed, but not as long as he was the other day, so I think he's nearly there, fingers crossed! If he still doesn't seem 100%, then I will get a two separate light units and run different fluorescents off each one.
I've only had him two weeks, and it's been the most stressful two weeks ever! I just want to make sure that everything is right for him so he's not suffering - I'm sure you all understand.
Again, will keep you posted on what happens over the next few days.
Thanks again for all your help.
I would ignore anything that shop tells you about the supplements and go by what you've learned here in the forums and from reading the care sheets - but that seems to be the route you're taking already!! I don't understand why you cannot run two different fluorescent bulbs in the same light fixture - never heard of that! As long as they are the same size and wattage it shouldn't matter. That fixture should not know the difference between a uv bulb and a cool white, unless I'm missing something here! I honestly don't think you were too far off with you're original misting schedule. I do agree with letting the cage dry out between mistings and not misting too late in the evening. Ultimately it depends on your particular situation - humidity levels inside your house, air flow etc. It's better to have a couple long misting sessions than a bunch of short ones. You said you were misting for 5 to 10 minutes - that's much better than a few seconds many times a day like some do. How is he drinking? From the misting or the dripper, or both? If he is using the dripper a lot for drinking then I wouldn't eliminate it at this point - of course it's not helping a lot with humidity but that's not it's purpose!
Regarding those lights. How close is he able to get to the uv bulbs?
Regarding those lights. How close is he able to get to the uv bulbs?
mtooke
Member
I pretty much have ignored what they've said as they sound like they have no clue whatsoever!
In the manual for the lighting system (I'll have to have a look at what system I have as I can't remember off the top of my head), says that you can only have two x ReptiGlo 5 fluorescents or 2 x ReptiGlo 10 fluorescents, but I will check when I get home to see what it says and let you know. I did purchase a ReptiGlo 2 fluorescent, so maybe I should give that a go with the 5, if it'll accept them?
I do tend to spray for longer in the morning then the afternoon, and don't spray in the evening. There is some water at the bottom of the viv as I don't use substrate - prefer to have it nice and easy to clean, and so he doesn't get anything stuck in his mouth or mould and bacteria doesn't breed.
He uses both his dripper and the mistings I give him. The humidity thing is stupid, and didn't think that this would cause a problem as I used to have one with my panther as well with no issue.
To the left of the viv, the highest branch is just under the bulbs, but I haven't ever seen him go up that high. In the middle of the cage, the branch is quite a way from the bulbs, and to the right, he isn't near the UVB bulbs, but can get nearer to the hear lamp without injuring or burning himself (see image below - it's the same one I shared earlier in this thread).
