Help Vieled chameleon not eating

[Sam92.poland]

I understand why you run the AC unit and the nighttime temps you run are good. I was confused by this sentence you wrote:

"So the blue light is just a night light that I keep on during the day and night because of the air conditioner"

It made me think you keep the blue light on day and night because of the AC. But maybe you just meant it's a night light. Which isn't needed - they like it dark (like in the wild) to have deep sleep.

So this morning without the blue light on I checked his basking temperature and it’s only about 73° also I’m attaching a few pictures his rear legs do look a little swollen and there’s also a black spot on his chin I know when force-feeding him I do hold his cask and kind of pull down on his chin a little bit trust me I know it’s not ideal at all but that’s the only way I can get him to open his mouth I’ve tried every other tactic

Yes a 24 inch fixture so it stretches across the whole cage.

So I’m only seeing 18 inch fixtures is that fine for a 24” wide enclosure , also should I go with the T8 or just go with the t5 ? My enclosure is 4 feet tall

 

[bbyoda]

So this morning without the blue light on I checked his basking temperature and it’s only about 73° also I’m attaching a few pictures his rear legs do look a little swollen and there’s also a black spot on his chin I know when force-feeding him I do hold his cask and kind of pull down on his chin a little bit trust me I know it’s not ideal at all but that’s the only way I can get him to open his mouth I’ve tried every other tactic

So I’m only seeing 18 inch fixtures is that fine for a 24” wide enclosure , also should I go with the T8 or just go with the t5 ? My enclosure is 4 feet tall

I'm only seeing the one screenshot of the 18" Zilla light. Can you try again to share the pics of your cham?

Regarding UVB length, the bulbs don't put out as much UVB on the ends, so that's why we like to get bulbs that run the entire length of the cage. But if this is the best you can find for now, then it's better than what you have and you can place it in a spot where your cham likes to hang so he definitely gets those UVB rays. Go with T5 as they last longer and the UVB goes deeper in the cage, which you want with a tall 4' cage like you have.

Regarding basking - do you have a regular basking lamp, or am I understanding correctly that you had the blue light and two coil UVB lights? The way my lighting is set up is I have the one linear UVB and then a separate bulb for heat. If you don't have a regular bulb for heat then you can swap that blue bulb out. Here's the kind I use, but any incandescent light will do:

 

[bbyoda]

@Beman do you happen to know the right strength for a T5 Zilla light? I'm not sure what the equivalent is like how we do 6% for Arcadia and 5.0 for Reptisun.

 

[Beman]

@Beman do you happen to know the right strength for a T5 Zilla light? I'm not sure what the equivalent is like how we do 6% for Arcadia and 5.0 for Reptisun.

To my knowledge zilla only has the T8 fixtures. And they put a plastic cover over the bulb so this has to be removed and they would replace the bulb with a T8 10.0 bulb. This would require the branches to sit closer to the fixture at 5-6 inches for an approximate 3 uvi.

 

[bbyoda]

To my knowledge zilla only has the T8 fixtures. And they put a plastic cover over the bulb so this has to be removed and they would replace the bulb with a T8 10.0 bulb. This would require the branches to sit closer to the fixture at 5-6 inches for an approximate 3 uvi.

Thanks! Had a feeling I was out of my depth with that brand. @Sam92.poland check out Beman's post about Zilla light setup above.

 

[Beman]

@Sam92.poland Can you please fill out the help form with detail. I see quite a few things of concern. Then we can give you very detailed feedback. Just copy and paste the form into your reply and fill it out. Please attach all the pics of your enclosure there as well and the pics of your boy.

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

 

[Sam92.poland]

I'm only seeing the one screenshot of the 18" Zilla light. Can you try again to share the pics of your cham?

Regarding UVB length, the bulbs don't put out as much UVB on the ends, so that's why we like to get bulbs that run the entire length of the cage. But if this is the best you can find for now, then it's better than what you have and you can place it in a spot where your cham likes to hang so he definitely gets those UVB rays. Go with T5 as they last longer and the UVB goes deeper in the cage, which you want with a tall 4' cage like you have.

Regarding basking - do you have a regular basking lamp, or am I understanding correctly that you had the blue light and two coil UVB lights? The way my lighting is set up is I have the one linear UVB and then a separate bulb for heat. If you don't have a regular bulb for heat then you can swap that blue bulb out. Here's the kind I use, but any incandescent light will do:

View attachment 311488

Yes right now I have that blue light which is a basking bulb that came with the chameleon kit and then I have two of the coil UVB bulbss
I did have a fourth bulb that would stay on all day also and throughout the night because it supposedly does not interrupt their sleep but now that I don’t have the air conditioning running I got rid of that bulb, what should my basking temp be and what watt should I have for my basking bulb in my 4 foot tall enclosure also here are the pics of his chin and feet

I'm only seeing the one screenshot of the 18" Zilla light. Can you try again to share the pics of your cham?

Regarding UVB length, the bulbs don't put out as much UVB on the ends, so that's why we like to get bulbs that run the entire length of the cage. But if this is the best you can find for now, then it's better than what you have and you can place it in a spot where your cham likes to hang so he definitely gets those UVB rays. Go with T5 as they last longer and the UVB goes deeper in the cage, which you want with a tall 4' cage like you have.

Regarding basking - do you have a regular basking lamp, or am I understanding correctly that you had the blue light and two coil UVB lights? The way my lighting is set up is I have the one linear UVB and then a separate bulb for heat. If you don't have a regular bulb for heat then you can swap that blue bulb out. Here's the kind I use, but any incandescent light will do:

View attachment 311488

 

[bbyoda]

Yes right now I have that blue light which is a basking bulb that came with the chameleon kit and then I have two of the coil UVB bulbss
I did have a fourth bulb that would stay on all day also and throughout the night because it supposedly does not interrupt their sleep but now that I don’t have the air conditioning running I got rid of that bulb, what should my basking temp be and what watt should I have for my basking bulb in my 4 foot tall enclosure also here are the pics of his chin and feet

Thanks for the photos. He seems like a super handsome dude! I'm not as experienced as other keepers here and @Beman shared those comprehensive questions so she can give you the next steps all around for improving husbandry. As you're seeing once you tweak one thing about your setup, other things need tweaking until you find the right balance.

I try to keep basking temps between 80-83. I use a 75w incandescent bulb that's raised off the screen and the branch in the cage is like 9" from the top of the screen. I have a temperature probe attached to the basking branch to get a very precise reading. My chameleon was showing early stages of burns on his casque and Beman helped me configure my setup to prevent burns. Other folks use lower wattage and have a different distance for their lights.

Regarding your cham, sometimes black spots like that mean your chameleon is healing from an injury. Bugs can bite them - like if you leave crickets in your cage. That's my guess for his chin. For his foot, does it look like his nail has been ripped out? Sometimes that happens if they screen climb or if you have a mesh ladder rope in your enclosure. Then the wound can get infected...I don't have experience with that kind of wound.

I'd suggest doing the full questions Beman posted and getting her advice on his foot injury.

Thanks for being open to making changes! This is all in the service of making sure your buddy has a great quality of life

 

[Sam92.poland]

@Sam92.poland Can you please fill out the help form with detail. I see quite a few things of concern. Then we can give you very detailed feedback. Just copy and paste the form into your reply and fill it out. Please attach all the pics of your enclosure there as well and the pics of your boy.

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Vieled , make 6 months
• Handling - Every day and I know it’s not good
• Feeding - before he stopped eating he was eating seven or eight crickets a day and sometimes I would give him super worms and mealworms and calcium worms

• Supplements - I’ve been feeding him water by syringe and also repti boost carnivore care , by syringe Calcium without d3 spray every feeedinf and a multivitamin once in a while and I am aware of using with d3 twice a month and alternating with the vitamin I have not started that though I was just advised of that yesterday
• Watering - I have a chamelon sripper in the enclosure that drips into a leaf looking bowl and I also have a mister that runs every two hours for 2 minutes always use spring water and distilled water for humidifier
• Fecal Description - Dark brown and pee is yellow , i know it should be white I do syringe feed water every day
• History -

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Repti breeze 48” tall by 24” by 24”
• Lighting - 75 w zoomed tropical basking bulb and two eco terra uvb 100 26w uvb bulbs all in some fixtures
• Temperature -82 basking 76 middle/lower and 72 on the bottom , at night it can get as low as 63F

• Humidity - I have a humidifier that runs constantly and the humidity is always between 50 and 69 , also have a mister then runs for two minutes every two hours
• Plants - Most live plants except for the hanging vines , not sure what they are but I checked with pet store to see if they were safe
• Placement - In the corner of my bedroom next to my bearded dragon tank , all 3 sides of the cage are blocked up except for the front and the top , no he cannot see the other animals top of cage is about 3 feet taller then me because it’s also on top of my tegu enclosure
• Location - Massachusetts

Current Problem - Not eating or attempting to eat for about 4 weeks

 

[Beman]

Chameleon Info:


@Sam92.poland Please answer the additional questions I have asked in your form.

• Your Chameleon - Vieled , make 6 months Are you sure about his age? He is awfully big for a 6 month old. I am looking at his casque size and the girth to his limbs and this does not add up to the amount of food amounts he was eating. Do you have any pics of when you got him? And when exactly did you get him?
• Handling - Every day and I know it’s not good. So handling is not bad... BUT it is up to the cham if it wants to be handled. If they are actively wanting to come out to you then we look at two things. Is the enclosure set up correctly with proper foliage and lighting? Or are they just more actively wanting out. Younger Veileds tend to be more open to handling. Once they reach maturity this can change. Also what does handling mean to the person doing it? Are you watching tv with him or taking him outside for natural sun. These two things are very different.
• Feeding - before he stopped eating he was eating seven or eight crickets a day and sometimes I would give him super worms and mealworms and calcium worms... For a six month old male this would not be enough food to cause the obesity issues I am seeing in his casque. I think the age is off. Looking at him he is by no means under weight.
• Supplements - I’ve been feeding him water by syringe and also repti boost carnivore care , by syringe Calcium without d3 spray every feeedinf and a multivitamin once in a while and I am aware of using with d3 twice a month and alternating with the vitamin I have not started that though I was just advised of that yesterday.. How long have you been using carnivore care? are there tongue function issues? Something is really off here. Can you take a picture of the supplements you were using?
• Watering - I have a chamelon sripper in the enclosure that drips into a leaf looking bowl and I also have a mister that runs every two hours for 2 minutes always use spring water and distilled water for humidifier... When are you running the humidifier? These should only be run when temps are below 67 at night. The misting is a bit too often. You should be misting in the morning and the evening instead.
• Fecal Description - Dark brown and pee is yellow , i know it should be white I do syringe feed water every day.... No, it should not be all white. It can easily be 60% yellow orange and still be fully hydrated. Pale yellow is also ok. Why are you force watering with all the other water your providing. How long have you been doing this?
• History -

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Repti breeze 48” tall by 24” by 24” This is a good size.
• Lighting - 75 w zoomed tropical basking bulb and two eco terra uvb 100 26w uvb bulbs all in some fixtures. This is incorrect. Should be using a linear T5HO fixture and 5.0 UVB bulb for it. Both the exo terra UVB bulbs should be replaced with the T5. Then you want the distance to the branch below it to be 8-9 inches for the correct UVI level. Like this one https://www.amazon.com/Reptisun-T5-...1&keywords=zoomed+T5ho&qid=1633363929&sr=8-18
• Temperature -82 basking 76 middle/lower and 72 on the bottom , at night it can get as low as 63F. How are you measuring your temps?
• Humidity - I have a humidifier that runs constantly and the humidity is always between 50 and 69 , also have a mister then runs for two minutes every two hours... Are you running this into the cage or into the room? A humidifier should never be pumped into the cage during the day. This creates an environment where the cham can develop a respiratory infection. Veileds should only have a humidity level between 30-50% max daytime.
• Plants - Most live plants except for the hanging vines , not sure what they are but I checked with pet store to see if they were safe
• Placement - In the corner of my bedroom next to my bearded dragon tank , all 3 sides of the cage are blocked up except for the front and the top , no he cannot see the other animals top of cage is about 3 feet taller then me because it’s also on top of my tegu enclosure. Hopefully you are not cross contaminating from one cage to another. Beardies can carry coccidia.
• Location - Massachusetts

Current Problem - Not eating or attempting to eat for about 4 weeks. I would really like to know what supplements you were using prior if you could please post an image. There are multiple major husbandry issues here. Lack of proper UVB lighting and supplements along with fogging 24/7. All of these could lead to him going off food including the fact that he is overweight. Overweight chams can have issues with their organ function leading to other issues. Carnivore care should never be fed long term. This is a last ditch thing you do with a very ill chameleon. I do not know how long he has been on this but I would not be force feeding him. He shows no signs of being underweight or lethargic in the pics. Eye turrets are pronounced and not sunken in.

Your saying he is not drinking too. My concern with the combo of not drinking and not eating is does he have function of his tongue. Tongue function can be impacted by improper supplementation and incorrect UVB lighting. It can also happen if you feed something that bites the tongue. Or if you put a hornworm on a branch and it holds on while the cham is trying to retract the worm. This can cause a strain in the tongue.

Start reading this husbandry program for correct info https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/

 

[Sam92.poland]

Chameleon Info:


@Sam92.poland Please answer the additional questions I have asked in your form.

• Your Chameleon - Vieled , make 6 months Are you sure about his age? He is awfully big for a 6 month old. I am looking at his casque size and the girth to his limbs and this does not add up to the amount of food amounts he was eating. Do you have any pics of when you got him? And when exactly did you get him? posted pic below from may 13th

• Handling - Every day and I know it’s not good. So handling is not bad... BUT it is up to the cham if it wants to be handled. If they are actively wanting to come out to you then we look at two things. Is the enclosure set up correctly with proper foliage and lighting? Or are they just more actively wanting out. Younger Veileds tend to be more open to handling. Once they reach maturity this can change. Also what does handling mean to the person doing it? Are you watching tv with him or taking him outside for natural sun. These two things are very different. he has deff be not wanting to come out so much like he use to , but when I do take him out even when he dosent want to it’s to bring him into the sun or let him crawl around inside of a vine plant that I have in my house , don’t remover the name but I do know it’s chanelon safe
• Feeding - before he stopped eating he was eating seven or eight crickets a day and sometimes I would give him super worms and mealworms and calcium worms... For a six month old male this would not be enough food to cause the obesity issues I am seeing in his casque. I think the age is off. Looking at him he is by no means under weight.
• Supplements - I’ve been feeding him water by syringe and also repti boost carnivore care , by syringe Calcium without d3 spray every feeedinf and a multivitamin once in a while and I am aware of using with d3 twice a month and alternating with the vitamin I have not started that though I was just advised of that yesterday.. How long have you been using carnivore care? are there tongue function issues? Something is really off here. Can you take a picture of the supplements you were using? I’ve been using the carnivore care a couple times a week for the last 4 weeks and I use the zoomed reptivite without d3 and then I use the Zilla calcium supplement spray
• Watering - I have a chamelon sniper in the enclosure that drips into a leaf looking bowl and I also have a mister that runs every two hours for 2 minutes always use spring water and distilled water for humidifier... When are you running the humidifier? These should only be run when temps are below 67 at night. The misting is a bit too often. You should be misting in the morning and the evening instead. so I run the humidifier all day and night and the humidifier is going directly into his repti breeze cage
• Fecal Description - Dark brown and pee is yellow , i know it should be white I do syringe feed water every day.... No, it should not be all white. It can easily be 60% yellow orange and still be fully hydrated. Pale yellow is also ok. Why are you force watering with all the other water your providing. How long have you been doing this? i’ve only been doing that once in a while since he stopped eating because I’ve been trying to figure out why he’s not eating and I can see his spine so I thought he might be dehydrated but then again his eyes aren’t sunken
• History -

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Repti breeze 48” tall by 24” by 24” This is a good size.
• Lighting - 75 w zoomed tropical basking bulb and two eco terra uvb 100 26w uvb bulbs all in some fixtures. This is incorrect. Should be using a linear T5HO fixture and 5.0 UVB bulb for it. Both the exo terra UVB bulbs should be replaced with the T5. Then you want the distance to the branch below it to be 8-9 inches for the correct UVI level. Like this one https://www.amazon.com/Reptisun-T5-Ho-Terrarium-Hood/dp/B00CX5HXI2/ref=sr_1_18?dchild=1&keywords=zoomed+T5ho&qid=1633363929&sr=8- yes I am aware of that hot , I have a 24 inch linear fixture arriving tomorrow with a repti sun t5 bulb
• Temperature -82 basking 76 middle/lower and 72 on the bottom , at night it can get as low as 63F. I have a temp probe on the basking branch and I also have an infrared temp gun
• Humidity - I have a humidifier that runs constantly and the humidity is always between 50 and 69 , also have a mister then runs for two minutes every two hours... Are you running this into the cage or into the room? A humidifier should never be pumped into the cage during the day. This creates an environment where the cham can develop a respiratory infection. Veileds should only have a humidity level between 30-50% max daytimewhat do you mean it should be pumped into the cage during the day ? So it can be at night ? Or ur just saying to only run it at night , and really only 30-50% ? I thought 50 was the least .
• Plants - Most live plants except for the hanging vines , not sure what they are but I checked with pet store to see if they were safe
• Placement - In the corner of my bedroom next to my bearded dragon tank , all 3 sides of the cage are blocked up except for the front and the top , no he cannot see the other animals top of cage is about 3 feet taller then me because it’s also on top of my tegu enclosure. Hopefully you are not cross contaminating from one cage to another. Beardies can carry coccidia.
• Location - Massachusetts

Current Problem - Not eating or attempting to eat for about 4 weeks. I would really like to know what supplements you were using prior if you could please post an image. There are multiple major husbandry issues here. Lack of proper UVB lighting and supplements along with fogging 24/7. All of these could lead to him going off food including the fact that he is overweight. Overweight chams can have issues with their organ function leading to other issues. Carnivore care should never be fed long term. This is a last ditch thing you do with a very ill chameleon. I do not know how long he has been on this but I would not be force feeding him. He shows no signs of being underweight or lethargic in the pics. Eye turrets are pronounced and not sunken in.

Your saying he is not drinking too. My concern with the combo of not drinking and not eating is does he have function of his tongue. Tongue function can be impacted by improper supplementation and incorrect UVB lighting. It can also happen if you feed something that bites the tongue. Or if you put a hornworm on a branch and it holds on while the cham is trying to retract the worm. This can cause a strain in the tongue.
I’m honestly not sure if he doesn’t drink water but I never have seen him drink water and like I said you could see his spine so I was a little worried that he wasn’t getting water or drinking it if you could please elaborate on the humidifier thing a little more so should I not be running the humidifier during the day at all? The temperatures in the day never get below 67
Start reading this husbandry program for correct info https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/

This is may 13 of this year

 

[Beman]

This is may 13 of this year

Ok so he is more like 8-9 months old. In the pic of the day you got him he looks more like a 3-4 month old.

Do you have any pics of him prior to being put on carnivore care?

 

[Beman]

I’ve been using the carnivore care a couple times a week for the last 4 weeks and I use the zoomed reptivite without d3 and then I use the Zilla calcium supplement spray

These are the supplements I would use below. If he were mine I would take him off the carnivore care and try a different feeder. Like silk worms. At this point with his size you would move him to an every other day feeding of 3-4 feeders and no more then that. They can go weeks without food.

Repashy Calcium plus LoD: This one is the multivitamin with D3 and A. You would use this two times a month say the 1st and the 15th. Buy the 3 oz bottle. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DLJRMV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Repashy Supercal NoDThis one is the phos free calcium without D3 and would be used at all other feedings. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N3BKCGA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i’ve only been doing that once in a while since he stopped eating because I’ve been trying to figure out why he’s not eating and I can see his spine so I thought he might be dehydrated but then again his eyes aren’t sunken

He is not showing signs of dehydration. I would stop force watering. Too easy to aspirate him. You have a dripper going which is how he should be drinking. Fogging at night when temps are below 67 is helpful for them as well.

yes I am aware of that hot , I have a 24 inch linear fixture arriving tomorrow with a repti sun t5 bulb
Good I think this will make a difference for him. It will provide the UVB and UV-A that he needs.

what do you mean it shouldnt be pumped into the cage during the day ? So it can be at night ? Or ur just saying to only run it at night , and really only 30-50% ? I thought 50 was the least .

So only run the fogger at night when temps are below 67. Running it during the day creates a hot moist environment. Them breathing in this is not healthy. Also creates an environment where bacteria easily grows. So they end up breathing this in and this in turn can cause a respiratory infection. Is he gaping at all? Holding his mouth open?

I’m honestly not sure if he doesn’t drink water but I never have seen him drink water and like I said you could see his spine so I was a little worried that he wasn’t getting water or drinking it if you could please elaborate on the humidifier thing a little more so should I not be running the humidifier during the day at all? The temperatures in the day never get below 67

They are shy drinkers. And they really do not drink a ton. Spine is not how you will judge dehydration. Even with weight we are really looking at their limbs, tail, and casques. Yours shows no sign of being too thin.
Yes, no running it at all during the day. Only at night when temps are below 67. 30-50% max day time levels for Veileds.

 

[Sam92.poland]

No

Ok so he is more like 8-9 months old. In the pic of the day you got him he looks more like a 3-4 month old.

Do you have any pics of him prior to being put on carnivore care?

No I don’t have any pictures we’re I can deff say it was before

 

[Sam92.poland]

No

No I don’t have any pictures we’re I can deff say it was before

It’s so weird with reptiles everyone says something different , I just looked on google and literally everyone says 50-65% humidity at all times I guess it’s just hard to know who to believe

 

[Sam92.poland]

It’s so weird with reptiles everyone says something different , I just looked on google and literally everyone says 50-65% humidity at all times I guess it’s just hard to know who to believe

Also do you recommend I still give him liquid calcium supplement I am afraid that he has beginning MBd , due to improper lighting

 

[Beman]

It’s so weird with reptiles everyone says something different , I just looked on google and literally everyone says 50-65% humidity at all times I guess it’s just hard to know who to believe

Do not google. Please. If you want totally incorrect husbandry then google. I can understand why it is frustrating to you. I was there too 3 years ago when I started out in the hobby. But in this hobby there is too much incorrect and outdated info. Trying to weed through the BS is horrendous. The experienced keepers in this forum know what they are talking about. We give you links to correct info.

This site is correct. https://chameleonacademy.com/

and this one https://caskabove.com/

Take a look here... This is the care image done by chameleon academy. https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/
They give their range for daytime 40-50% for a veiled. Now realistically they can drop down to 30% if other husbandry factors are in place such as correct hydration methods and night time fogging.

It becomes a balancing game where you have to piece together all the correct husbandry. One will screw with another. This is by far the hardest animal I have kept. There is a lot to learn. And learning from the right places is important. Or it just messes you up that much more.

 

[Beman]

Also do you recommend I still give him liquid calcium supplement I am afraid that he has beginning MBd , due to improper lighting

Unless it is under the direction of a vet I would not comment on this. I do not know what his levels are or if the vet did an xray to see bone density. With correct regular supplementation and the correct lighting you can get the beginning stages of mbd to reverse. Once it extends to physical deformity you have to have a vet give you the specifics for how to implement liquid calcium.

No one supplements them in the wild. They have natural sun and eat when they want to. Right now your fighting multiple issues with this boy. The not eating being a main one. But with the correct UVB this will jumpstart his bodies ability to make calcium rather than pull it from the bones to compensate having the incorrect lighting. We supplement with calcium because our feeders have a high phosphorus level. So to balance that we add plain calcium which counteracts the high phosphorus. In the wild they are eating feeders that are feeding on items that are in the sun. That are picking up different vitamins from the soil around them. This is why we end up supplementing because we have to provide as close to what we can in captivity.


Have you tried any flying feeders with him? He may be more enticed by something flying.

 

[Sam92.poland]

Unless it is under the direction of a vet I would not comment on this. I do not know what his levels are or if the vet did an xray to see bone density. With correct regular supplementation and the correct lighting you can get the beginning stages of mbd to reverse. Once it extends to physical deformity you have to have a vet give you the specifics for how to implement liquid calcium.

No one supplements them in the wild. They have natural sun and eat when they want to. Right now your fighting multiple issues with this boy. The not eating being a main one. But with the correct UVB this will jumpstart his bodies ability to make calcium rather than pull it from the bones to compensate having the incorrect lighting. We supplement with calcium because our feeders have a high phosphorus level. So to balance that we add plain calcium which counteracts the high phosphorus. In the wild they are eating feeders that are feeding on items that are in the sun. That are picking up different vitamins from the soil around them. This is why we end up supplementing because we have to provide as close to what we can in captivity.


Have you tried any flying feeders with him? He may be more enticed by something flying.

No I have not tried flying feeders but he was the absolute best eater until like I said four weeks ago and he just stopped eating everything before he was my best eater and eat whatever you gave him

 

[Beman]

No I have not tried flying feeders but he was the absolute best eater until like I said four weeks ago and he just stopped eating everything before he was my best eater and eat whatever you gave him

If you have any pics on your phone of him at that point I would really love to see them. Like I said at his age roughly 9 months old he is showing quite a bit of bulk in his casque. We see this in two different situations. 1. They are just too fat or 2. They had a prior thermal burn to the casque and it is actually puss not fat. I do not see any of the normal signs of a thermal burn though.

It is also common for them to reduce eating on their own as they start maturing. You have to take him off the carnivore care though to let him want to eat. It could take another week or two. But as long as your feeding the carnivore care he has no need to eat. And if it is a stressful thing for him to go through then he may be backing off because of that.