HELP what to do?

I have 2 baby veileds and bought 2 2x2x4 cages which I was told were "too big" for the babies. So I just put one cage together, laid it on it's side and divided it in 2 using the "bottom" and hot glued screen on the bottom which is now the left side. I have the other cage to put together when they get bigger. The plants are growing and I have added more sticks for climbing, but this was the first picture of it.
DSCN2388.jpg
 
I have 2 baby veileds and bought 2 2x2x4 cages which I was told were "too big" for the babies. So I just put one cage together, laid it on it's side and divided it in 2 using the "bottom" and hot glued screen on the bottom which is now the left side. I have the other cage to put together when they get bigger. The plants are growing and I have added more sticks for climbing, but this was the first picture of it.
DSCN2388.jpg

nice idea! is that pothos? do they do well with uvb lighting alone? :) what is the other plant called? schefflera? :)
 
The plants are Pothos and Schefflera. I have a UVB and a 6500k fluorescent bulb in a dual 48" T8. When they get their own cages the same light will be used over the top of both cages side by side and a partition (probably some jungle print shower curtain or similar) between the cages. Basking lights are 65w regular house bulbs in clamp lights (sans clamps) from Home Depot. They have settled in nicely and are wandering freely. It's like "Where's Waldo". I look all over for a few minutes and then see them right in front of me looking right at me. I know they have to be in there, but I still get a little panicked when I don't see them. When that happens I just mist. That usually will stir them up and make them show themselves.:D
 
that's a great setup! i have a uvb t8, do i also need 6500K t8? :) is the 6500k just for a better view of your chameleons or do they also give benefits for your cham? :) thanks!
 
For what it is worth.

If his appetite does not pick up soon, you might indeed try adding a basking light to the setup.

I use basking lights for babies from day one and they do great.

Personally, after 20 years of raising babies- I would not skip a basking light.

If your ambient is 82-85 a reasonable basking bulb will *not* cook a baby.

Locate it near one corner of your enclosure so it does not raise the temp in the entire tub- the baby should still be able to find temperatures down to low 80s when it wants.
 
For what it is worth.

If his appetite does not pick up soon, you might indeed try adding a basking light to the setup.

I use basking lights for babies from day one and they do great.

Personally, after 20 years of raising babies- I would not skip a basking light.

If your ambient is 82-85 a reasonable basking bulb will *not* cook a baby.

Locate it near one corner of your enclosure so it does not raise the temp in the entire tub- the baby should still be able to find temperatures down to low 80s when it wants.

i see, what do you do with baby chams that are not eating well? where do you put them? :) big cage or small cage? thanks!
 
baby veiled

Hi , I was told not to put mealworms in there for babies cuz there exoskeleton is hard for them to digest .u might ask one of the senior members that .good luck,David
 
Hi , I was told not to put mealworms in there for babies cuz there exoskeleton is hard for them to digest .u might ask one of the senior members that .good luck,David

They can have some.. like one a week as a change in diet. but its not a daily food. even for adults.
 
Your set up sucks, thats the main reason he is stressed to the max..........Get him a home b4 you get him!!!!!

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Whatever your opinion may be, I encourage you to share it, however, that was not very friendly. JMO
 
Looks like you have received some good information, so I will just say happy to have you as part of our group.

I removed the less that helpful comment. Sorry it was posted. That not how we treat people.:)
 
i see, what do you do with baby chams that are not eating well? where do you put them? big cage or small cage? thanks!

Generally I do not have this problem. When I do, I simply isolate the baby into it's own cage which is the same size as the other cages I use for babies.

I keep them in small groups and start them in 22 or 38 gallon reptariums nowadays which I orient long side horizontal, which keeps the floor walls and ceiling near the babies so they always have easy access to insects (which I offer loose in the terrariums until the babies are a little larger and able to eat a little larger insect and a little smarter about going to a food dish- just personal preference- I've started them feeding out in bowls as hatchlings as well, but this is my preference so less dominant individuals don't have to brave the march past more dominant individuals to the bowl). But in the past I've used lots of different containers successfully including plastic tubs similar to yours, 30 gallon aquarium tanks, etc.

I just consider size a balancing act of thermoregulation vs feeding requirements. Smaller = more difficult to set up proper thermal variation in the environment, while larger = more difficulty for a baby to catch food.

If a chameleon is alone and not feeding well, the first thing I check is the environment. Can it get as warm as it wants? Can it avoid the heat and is there enough temperature variance for true thermoregulatory behavior (not just a "hot spot" and cool every where else- there should be a true range so the chameleon can select the exact temperature it wants at any given moment). Is there enough light (won't feed in low light situations such as at the bottom of a tall enclosure away from the lights- sounds like you are doing fine with this)? Is the animal drinking? Is it getting enough calcium/d3 and multivitamin (More a consideration if the animal is sleeping or keeping eyes closed- sounds like you are doing fine with this as well). Is he getting enough water, and not too much ( for a baby veiled- a light misting to haze the sides of your tub and a spritz or two directly on the cham 2x per day along with a drip cup is plenty, or a light misting a few times a day is still OK at this size as well- but make sure the enclosure dries out completely between mistings. These are the kinds of things I look at.

But for you- I'd say a couple of things could help-

First- thermal variation with a heat lamp.

Second- Sometimes it takes them a few days to settle in. Just offer food, and water, and don't touch or mess with him any more than absolutely necessary. This might be your only real problem in this case. It could just be that he's only been with you less than a week and needs a little time to settle in. You haven't mentioned if you occasionally handle him or reach into his enclosure and move things around - but anything like that will result in a shy individual taking longer than usual to settle in and start to feel safe and feed well. Time and a hands off approach might be the only real obstacle here.

Also- mealworms- I would wait until he is feeding well on crickets before introducing mealworms again. I personally offer baby mealworms right off the bat to my hatchlings alongside baby crickets, baby roaches, fruit flies, etc- anything small enough is fine. But- because he is showing some reluctance to feed and because crickets are more well rounded nutritionally and a bit easier to digest- I'd wait on yours until he's eating crickets well on a regular basis.
 
Looks like you have received some good information, so I will just say happy to have you as part of our group.

I removed the less that helpful comment. Sorry it was posted. That not how we treat people.:)

thanks guys :) anyway i started building the 18x18x24 cage! it looks crap but it will do for temporary.:eek: i ordered a custom made aluminum 24x24x48 cage for him. i will move him when he gets bigger. meanwhile, i tried feeding him crickets, he would just observe and not eat them. i put some more foliage for him to hide. and mist him 4x a day. he still wouldn't touch the crickets. i removed the crickets after 30minutes and re introduced it again after 3hours. what to do? should i introduce the crickets tomorrow? should i wait for him to eat crickets before i move him to the new cage?
 
Generally I do not have this problem. When I do, I simply isolate the baby into it's own cage which is the same size as the other cages I use for babies.

I keep them in small groups and start them in 22 or 38 gallon reptariums nowadays which I orient long side horizontal, which keeps the floor walls and ceiling near the babies so they always have easy access to insects (which I offer loose in the terrariums until the babies are a little larger and able to eat a little larger insect and a little smarter about going to a food dish- just personal preference- I've started them feeding out in bowls as hatchlings as well, but this is my preference so less dominant individuals don't have to brave the march past more dominant individuals to the bowl). But in the past I've used lots of different containers successfully including plastic tubs similar to yours, 30 gallon aquarium tanks, etc.

I just consider size a balancing act of thermoregulation vs feeding requirements. Smaller = more difficult to set up proper thermal variation in the environment, while larger = more difficulty for a baby to catch food.

If a chameleon is alone and not feeding well, the first thing I check is the environment. Can it get as warm as it wants? Can it avoid the heat and is there enough temperature variance for true thermoregulatory behavior (not just a "hot spot" and cool every where else- there should be a true range so the chameleon can select the exact temperature it wants at any given moment). Is there enough light (won't feed in low light situations such as at the bottom of a tall enclosure away from the lights- sounds like you are doing fine with this)? Is the animal drinking? Is it getting enough calcium/d3 and multivitamin (More a consideration if the animal is sleeping or keeping eyes closed- sounds like you are doing fine with this as well). Is he getting enough water, and not too much ( for a baby veiled- a light misting to haze the sides of your tub and a spritz or two directly on the cham 2x per day along with a drip cup is plenty, or a light misting a few times a day is still OK at this size as well- but make sure the enclosure dries out completely between mistings. These are the kinds of things I look at.

But for you- I'd say a couple of things could help-

First- thermal variation with a heat lamp.

Second- Sometimes it takes them a few days to settle in. Just offer food, and water, and don't touch or mess with him any more than absolutely necessary. This might be your only real problem in this case. It could just be that he's only been with you less than a week and needs a little time to settle in. You haven't mentioned if you occasionally handle him or reach into his enclosure and move things around - but anything like that will result in a shy individual taking longer than usual to settle in and start to feel safe and feed well. Time and a hands off approach might be the only real obstacle here.

Also- mealworms- I would wait until he is feeding well on crickets before introducing mealworms again. I personally offer baby mealworms right off the bat to my hatchlings alongside baby crickets, baby roaches, fruit flies, etc- anything small enough is fine. But- because he is showing some reluctance to feed and because crickets are more well rounded nutritionally and a bit easier to digest- I'd wait on yours until he's eating crickets well on a regular basis.

thank you, as much as possible i don't handle him. the cage does not dry between misting. that's another problem. either i can drill holes for the excess water to drip out of the bin. or i'll move him to the new cage tomorrow. what do you think? im worried maybe he'd get stress if i move him again and not eat for another set of days? :( i tried crickets this morning, he observes the cricket but does not touch it :|
 
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