HELP
- Thread starter Fibonacci
- Start date
stygian73
New Member
Get him to a vet without delay. I was "bounced" around by 2 other vets that supposedly dealt with reptiles and it wasn't until I found the competent one and by that time plus the wait in observation of why isn't he eating, that he already had an infection that went systemic and despite aggressive measures died. Veileds don't sleep during the day--its a red flag. Don't delay getting him seen.
Fibonacci
New Member
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What is the temperature from the top to the bottom,including ur basking spot,and do not feed him anymore mealworms ,they aint got no nutrition in them,it like I go to the McDonald's join n eating big Mac all day ,try some gutloaded dubia roaches n silkworms,then switch back to the crickets later.
Please answer the questions in the how to ask for help thread at the top of the health forum so we can help you better. Please be specific about the supplements and include what you feed/gutload the insects with.
Has anything changed in the setup, etc just around the time when he changed?
Please post some recent photos too.
Has anything changed in the setup, etc just around the time when he changed?
Please post some recent photos too.
Fibonacci
New Member
-Veiled Chameleon, male, hes about 2 yrs old ive had him about a yr now
-usually take him out every other day
-i was feeding him crickets but he wouldnt eat them anymore he seems to like hornworms and sometimes mealworms but i was told those arent too great. i was gutloading the crickets with carrots and spinach i wld sprinkle reptolife plus on the vegetables. i gutloaded some mealworms with orange for a while he seemed to like them.
-tetrafauna ReptoCal and tetrafauna ReptoLife plus. i was powdering the crickets often with the reptocal which contains d3 until i realized that was something he should only receive about once a week so i cut the dosage.
-i mist his cage about 5-7 times a day
-he hasnt been defecating much lately he had a sperm plug i had to remove about a week ago after i did he did defecate but not much since then. ive never tested for parasites.
-he has a 24x24x48 cage from flchams
-i recently got him an exo terra 100w intense basking spot bulb and a exo terra 13w reptile uvb 150 bulb
-he has 3 pothos plants in his cage
-hes in an attic room with a heater and one window its usually pretty warm where hes at
-New York
ive caught him with his eyes closed during the day time about 3 times this past weekend, today i caught him standing over his food with one eye closed. usually in the morning hell go to the bottom of his cage unless i mist him. he refuses to eat crickets anymore. he had a sperm plug which i removed about a week ago but he seemed fine after. he hasnt shown much vibrant colors hes mostly a greyish brownish with some green. he seems to sit in his favorite spots most of the day he isnt as lively as he usually is. anybody have any suggestions on what could be the problem?
-usually take him out every other day
-i was feeding him crickets but he wouldnt eat them anymore he seems to like hornworms and sometimes mealworms but i was told those arent too great. i was gutloading the crickets with carrots and spinach i wld sprinkle reptolife plus on the vegetables. i gutloaded some mealworms with orange for a while he seemed to like them.
-tetrafauna ReptoCal and tetrafauna ReptoLife plus. i was powdering the crickets often with the reptocal which contains d3 until i realized that was something he should only receive about once a week so i cut the dosage.
-i mist his cage about 5-7 times a day
-he hasnt been defecating much lately he had a sperm plug i had to remove about a week ago after i did he did defecate but not much since then. ive never tested for parasites.
-he has a 24x24x48 cage from flchams
-i recently got him an exo terra 100w intense basking spot bulb and a exo terra 13w reptile uvb 150 bulb
-he has 3 pothos plants in his cage
-hes in an attic room with a heater and one window its usually pretty warm where hes at
-New York
ive caught him with his eyes closed during the day time about 3 times this past weekend, today i caught him standing over his food with one eye closed. usually in the morning hell go to the bottom of his cage unless i mist him. he refuses to eat crickets anymore. he had a sperm plug which i removed about a week ago but he seemed fine after. he hasnt shown much vibrant colors hes mostly a greyish brownish with some green. he seems to sit in his favorite spots most of the day he isnt as lively as he usually is. anybody have any suggestions on what could be the problem?
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My panther was doing the same thing. Took a poop sample to the vet to be inspected and found he had parasites. Pin worms to be exact. Did a 3 day dose of panacur 2 weeks ago and he is much better. Tomorrow will be the last day of his second round. I suggest taking a poo sample to the vet to see exactly what he has. The first time this happened with my veiled I just dosed him with panacur and it worked but I was more careful with my panther. I don't suggest ever dosing with meds without knowing what you're dosing for. I was lucky the first time. It took about a week for my panther to start acting normal again. He is now more active than he ever has been and eating like crazy again. Good luck.
Fibonacci
New Member
so i was searching his cage for feces and i found 2 of these on the bottom of his cage. there about the size of an ant but i zoomed in with my camera and they look like baby crickets????
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Did he always have a UVB light?
Your gutloading needs improvement. Spinach should be used rarely because it binds the calcium.
You can gutload / feed the crickets, superworms, roaches, locusts, mealworms with a wide assortment of greens such as collards, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, kale, etc and veggies such as carrots, sweet red pepper, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, etc.
Since most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous its important to dust at most feedings just before feeding the insects to the chameleon with a phosphorous-free calcium powder to help make up for it.
It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a phosphorous-free calcium / D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving the chameleon to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light.
It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A cannot build up in the system and lead to overdoses like prEformed sources can and will leave it up to you to decide whether the chameleon needs prEformed or not.
What's the temperature in the basking area?
Your gutloading needs improvement. Spinach should be used rarely because it binds the calcium.
You can gutload / feed the crickets, superworms, roaches, locusts, mealworms with a wide assortment of greens such as collards, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, kale, etc and veggies such as carrots, sweet red pepper, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, etc.
Since most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous its important to dust at most feedings just before feeding the insects to the chameleon with a phosphorous-free calcium powder to help make up for it.
It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a phosphorous-free calcium / D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving the chameleon to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light.
It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A cannot build up in the system and lead to overdoses like prEformed sources can and will leave it up to you to decide whether the chameleon needs prEformed or not.
What's the temperature in the basking area?
Fibonacci
New Member
yes hes always had a uvb light and the basking area is at 80
would you recommend any specific supplements?
The Learned Lizard
New Member
Any cham sleeping during the day is usually a bad sign.
