HELP!!!

For the past few days he has been acting kinda weird, slow and now falling..
I would buy 20 crickets and it would take him around 2 to 3 days to eat all of them, then he won't eat for 2 days. (He does this everytime)
Today I got him crickets before I arrived home (like usual) but, I found him with his tongue sticking out, (see pictures, is not yellowish, it has its normal color) it is not completely out. I'm terrified he might die.
We don't have any reptile clinics around here, the closest one is 2 hours away, and by the time I get out from work they close.

The tempeture right now is 70..
humidity about 75.

He is having a hard time walking.
The crickets eat Cricket Quencher (calcium fortified)
I also have Repti Calcium D3, but I don't use very often.
 

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If you could fill out the help form, that would give better info to help you.

Here is some recommended information to include when asking for help in the health clinic forum. By providing this information you will receive more accurate and beneficial responses. It might not be necessary to answer all these questions, but the more you provide the better. Please remember that even the most knowledgeable person can only guess at what your problem may be. Only an experienced reptile veterinarian who can directly examine your animal can give a true diagnosis of your chameleon's health.


Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
He's a she and might be gravid to the point of egg binding. She may have MBD too.

Can you post more photos of her from the side so I can see all of both sides please?


So you only give the crickets cricket quench Era? Do you throw all the crickets in the cage at the same time?
 
For the past few days he has been acting kinda weird, slow and now falling..
I would buy 20 crickets and it would take him around 2 to 3 days to eat all of them, then he won't eat for 2 days. (He does this everytime)
Today I got him crickets before I arrived home (like usual) but, I found him with his tongue sticking out, (see pictures, is not yellowish, it has its normal color) it is not completely out. I'm terrified he might die.
We don't have any reptile clinics around here, the closest one is 2 hours away, and by the time I get out from work they close.

The tempeture right now is 70..
humidity about 75.

He is having a hard time walking.
The crickets eat Cricket Quencher (calcium fortified)
I also have Repti Calcium D3, but I don't use very often.
I just bought a female on Saturday and took her in today for a check up. Anytime something is wrong or i feel something is wrong i take off from work to avoid that issue of being closed. Unfortunately in your case leaving work early to take the 2 hour trip is worth it. I dont have nearly the knowledge that most of the peo People here have but i agree that she doesnt look good at all. I am very attached to my reptiles. I was in the marine corps for a while and i dont cry but if i lost any of my reptiles i would probably go crazy. I have ptsd and they keep me very occupied so again i would def take off early to get her looked at
 
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? I was never told if he was a she or a he (got her at petsmart)
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? It depends, once or teice a week, I'm not handling anymore due to how he looks.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? 20 crickets, they last about 2 days
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? Dusting with calcium D3. Every other week.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? I have a mister, I do it manually 2 times a day
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? Black, and a cream thing in one end, (I haven't seen poop since 2 days ago)
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. Petsmart didn't say much, I have been doing research on my own.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? Glass, with screen on top.
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? I'm not so sure but I bought a long UV lamp. Because the habitat is wide. With one 60 watts bulb. (Looks yellow)
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Temp is usually between the 70's and the 80's. The yellow bulb is only on one side of the habitat. (See pictures)
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? I have a water fountain, meant for chameleons and it said it was good for the humidity.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? No live plants, eveyother weekend I would add live plnats from my yard :( is that bad?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? Is not in a high level, there are no air vents close to it.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? I'm in Florida. Since hestarted looking sad, I would take him outside for an hour, (supervised like a child, yesss, he's my baby) he turns really green, I always thought it meant he liked it?

  • Sooorrry for no being well informed, how could he be pregnant, he has been by himself for the past 2 months?
 

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Now brownish, you can see where the air vent is located.
 

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He never liked being under the yellow bulb, and he doesnt like getting wet either. If I try misting the habitat he would try to move, but he is so weak. He would try to move from the bridge to the tree trunk, and now if he tries to do it, he falls on his face to the dirt.
His back legs are super weak compared to his front ones, and his tail is not functioning properly, if he tries to hold on to something with it he would fall.
 

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I’ll be putting my feedback in red.
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care? I was never told if he was a she or a he (got her at petsmart) I’m not as good at telling gender from the pics you posted as others, but if Kinyonga and Beman say female, I’ll go with that. How old is she?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? It depends, once or teice a week, I'm not handling anymore due to how he looks.
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders? 20 crickets, they last about 2 days Are you gutloading the crickets? If you don’t feed them, you are not giving your chameleon adequate nutrition.
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule? Dusting with calcium D3. Every other week. She should be having a phosphorus free calcium without D3 with every feeding. One feeding every other week the calcium with D3 and once every other week one with a multivitamin. She has a calcium deficiency which is most likely causing mbd.
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking? I have a mister, I do it manually 2 times a day
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? Black, and a cream thing in one end, (I haven't seen poop since 2 days ago) The cream or white part is urate or urine. The color is good...means she is hydrated. If orange, is a sign of dehydration. Is always best to have a fecal done to test for parasites.
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. Petsmart didn't say much, I have been doing research on my own. Unfortunately, they are not known for selling healthy animals.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions? Glass, with screen on top. Glass is okay, but that tank is way too short for a chameleon. They live in trees and need height.
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? I'm not so sure but I bought a long UV lamp. Because the habitat is wide. With one 60 watts bulb. (Looks yellow) It’s important to know if you have a T8 or T5 uvb fixture and what % uvb your bulb is. Correct uvb also plays into mbd and health issues.
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps? Temp is usually between the 70's and the 80's. The yellow bulb is only on one side of the habitat. (See pictures) Basking temps for a female should be in the low 80’s, so this is ok. At night they can/should have a much cooler temp.
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity? I have a water fountain, meant for chameleons and it said it was good for the humidity. Water fountains are not good for chameleons. They do not drink from them and they end up being just a bacterial soup. Knowing your humidity level is very important. It should be around 40% during the day and get can as high as 80-100% at night when it is cool. High humidity + heat can lead to respiratory infections.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? No live plants, eveyother weekend I would add live plnats from my yard :( is that bad? Live plants are best, but you need to make sure that they are safe. Veileds nibble their plants and a toxic plant or one that has been treated with pesticide or fertilizer can poison her. Pothos is a favorite for chams.
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor? Is not in a high level, there are no air vents close to it. Chams like being high, think like up in a tree. When they can look down upon their world, it makes them feel safe.
  • Location - Where are you geographically located? I'm in Florida. Since hestarted looking sad, I would take him outside for an hour, (supervised like a child, yesss, he's my baby) he turns really green, I always thought it meant he liked it? Besides changing color based upon mood and stress level, they also turn colors to better absorb heat.

  • Sooorrry for no being well informed, how could he be pregnant, he has been by himself for the past 2 months? Like chickens, chameleons will lay eggs regardless of having mated. The only difference is they will be infertile. You need a lay bin ASAP. Usually a container at least 12-14” deep and at least as wide filled with play sand moist enough to hold a tunnel without collapsing. However, from her collapsed casque and other info you gave, it does appear she has mbd and if so, will not be able to lay her eggs normally. You really need to get her to a vet ASAP! Without medical intervention, she will only continue to decline, and most likely die. If you need help finding a vet, just ask. I’m in central Florida and know of a few really good vets.
 
Your additional pics do better show she’s a she.
I forgot to add, that the substrate is also not of any benefit and if kept moist, could also contribute to respiratory infection.
 
Almost certainly eggbound. I would get HER to the vets ASAP and expect her to be spayed. If you wait she will be too week for sure and may already be too weak to survive the surgery.

You've been overfeeding her...her supplements are not done right...not sure what you're using for UVB and if she can't climb she's not close enough for it to do her much good anyway. All of this can lead to large clutches, MBD, weak muscles (leading to no trunkal lifting/can use its legs right/rests on the ground/ branch) and lack of tongue control....and inability to lay the eggs. Also no egg laying bin in the cage also can lead to egg binding.
 
I am very attached to my reptiles. I was in the marine corps for a while and i dont cry but if i lost any of my reptiles i would probably go crazy. I have ptsd and they keep me very occupied so again i would def take off early to get her looked at

Just wanted to reply to this.. so much this! I too have PTSD and am "retired" as a result and keeping a Chameleon while being stressful at times has definitely given me a focus and wonderful hobby, it's also very peaceful just watching my boy.

To the OP I would trust Kinyonga He/She has never led me wrong with advice. Your little Cham looks very "bloated" to me.. and it's definitely not eating correctly.

As I do not have a female Chameleon I would defer to the advice you have been given.
 
He never liked being under the yellow bulb, and he doesnt like getting wet either. If I try misting the habitat he would try to move, but he is so weak. He would try to move from the bridge to the tree trunk, and now if he tries to do it, he falls on his face to the dirt.
His back legs are super weak compared to his front ones, and his tail is not functioning properly, if he tries to hold on to something with it he would fall.

I don't want to cause you additional stress but that is not a Chameleon enclosure.. they should be much taller than wider and mesh for climbing.
 
Your additional pics do better show she’s a she.
I forgot to add, that the substrate is also not of any benefit and if kept moist, could also contribute to respiratory infection.
I live in brandon florida.
How can I fix this?
What type of habitat would you recommend? Can you tell me the dimensions if possible?
This is what Petsmart recommended me
 

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I would remove the substrate from the cage you have right now. This aquarium could actually be ok for her while she's recovering if she does get to the vet soon enough. It's shallow enough that she won't fall.

She will need proper supplementing as @MissSkittles has given you above as well as additional liquid calcium the vet can give you. You need to gutload/feed the insects properly too. For crickets, superworms, locusts, roaches you can use dandelion greens, kale, collards, mustard greens, squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, sweet red potato, and a little bit of fruit like berries, apples, pears, melon, mango, etc.

The UVB light needs to be close enough to allow her to make some D3 she needs. Sunshine outside would be even better but you're going to have to be careful because she's in no condition to move out of it when she's has enough. Same with the basking light...she can't move away from it when she's so weak.

It takes time to recover from the MBD and as I said she will need surgery for the egg issue. They go down hill rapidly...so you need to act quickly.
 
I just bought my new one from them. I went to pick up a cork round for my crestie and saw the veiled just sitting in this tiny dirt enclosure so i bought her. F**k petsmart
Im surprised. I live in florida also and just about every vet around here has a herp or can refer you to one. Your in south florida correct?
 
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