HELP

[Jemmylou]

No, it is not normal at all after laying. Something is off. How many eggs did she lay? Can you see anymore lumps low in her abdomen? I seriously doubt if the eggs are fertile that is a long period of time between getting her and laying if she was mated. They will start molding over if they are infertile.

Can you fill out this form with detail and add pictures of your supplements and your cage including the lighting on top? Just copy and paste it into your form to fill it out. Then we can give you more spot on help.


Here is some recommended information to include when asking for help in the health clinic forum. By providing this information you will receive more accurate and beneficial responses. It might not be necessary to answer all these questions, but the more you provide the better. Please remember that even the most knowledgeable person can only guess at what your problem may be. Only an experienced reptile veterinarian who can directly examine your animal can give a true diagnosis of your chameleon's health.


Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

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Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

My chameleon is a Yemen, she is female, she is 9 and a half months old(we believe from what we have been told) we have had her 3 a d a half months.

I can't handle her she rushes off me, my boyfriend can, but however that is very rare. Everytime we try, she puffs up or she hisses or a bit of both. Her colour also changes really badly, so you know she is stressed.

We have been feeding her crickets and locusts.
We give her 2 locusts and 4/6 crickets
In the beginning it was twice, 3 times a day now its more like once and some days we still have crickets roaming around in her cage.
We use the standard bug gel, kale and crickets sometimes have had carrot.

Repti calcium, once a week
Multi vitamin exotic terra, once a month

I have a small pot on top of cage with a tiny hole in for a water dripper, I fill this pot everytime the pot is empty
We mist her twice a day for about a minute.
I have seen her drink in the last week, but not all the time I don't see her drink.

We have solid bits of poo, we also get white droppings, sometimes brown droppings.
She has never been tested, as far as I know.

It is a screen cage which is 3ftX2ft
Her lighting is zoo med, combi deep domb dual lamp(it is the one that came with the cage)
We have the light on for 12 hours and off for 12 hours

Her humidity we have an humidifier that we have poked through the back corner of her cage, it is on the same length of time as light.
Her humidity is always between 50-70%
We have a humidity reader

Her cage is placed under the stairs on a cabinet about 2 and a half ft of the floor. With just me and my boyfriend living here there isn't much traffic for her there.

My concern at the moment is. Saturday night we found a pile of eggs turned out to be 43 eggs in total. She came back up yesterday and seemed OK, today she has been sleeping she can barely keep her eyes open.

 

[Beman]

My chameleon is a Yemen, she is female, she is 9 and a half months old(we believe from what we have been told) we have had her 3 a d a half months.

I can't handle her she rushes off me, my boyfriend can, but however that is very rare. Everytime we try, she puffs up or she hisses or a bit of both. Her colour also changes really badly, so you know she is stressed.

We have been feeding her crickets and locusts.
We give her 2 locusts and 4/6 crickets
In the beginning it was twice, 3 times a day now its more like once and some days we still have crickets roaming around in her cage.
We use the standard bug gel, kale and crickets sometimes have had carrot.

Repti calcium, once a week
Multi vitamin exotic terra, once a month

I have a small pot on top of cage with a tiny hole in for a water dripper, I fill this pot everytime the pot is empty
We mist her twice a day for about a minute.
I have seen her drink in the last week, but not all the time I don't see her drink.

We have solid bits of poo, we also get white droppings, sometimes brown droppings.
She has never been tested, as far as I know.

It is a screen cage which is 3ftX2ft
Her lighting is zoo med, combi deep domb dual lamp(it is the one that came with the cage)
We have the light on for 12 hours and off for 12 hours

Her humidity we have an humidifier that we have poked through the back corner of her cage, it is on the same length of time as light.
Her humidity is always between 50-70%
We have a humidity reader

Her cage is placed under the stairs on a cabinet about 2 and a half ft of the floor. With just me and my boyfriend living here there isn't much traffic for her there.

My concern at the moment is. Saturday night we found a pile of eggs turned out to be 43 eggs in total. She came back up yesterday and seemed OK, today she has been sleeping she can barely keep her eyes open.

I will go through your husbandry form. Please post pics I really need to see what your working with and I need to see the exact supplements.

 

[Jemmylou]

 

[Jemmylou]

 

[Beman]

View attachment 305283

Can you post pictures of your girl please.

 

[Jemmylou]

 

[Jemmylou]

 

[Jemmylou]

She seems very lethargic

 

[Jemmylou]

 

[Beman]

@Jemmylou See my feedback in bold. She needs a Vet now. Call around and find one that knows reptiles. More then likely she has retained eggs or simply the large clutch was too much for her to handle with the lack of proper supplementation and UVB lighting. Her eyes being sunk into the turrets is a sign of her declining.


My chameleon is a Yemen, she is female, she is 9 and a half months old(we believe from what we have been told) we have had her 3 a d a half months.



I can't handle her she rushes off me, my boyfriend can, but however that is very rare. Everytime we try, she puffs up or she hisses or a bit of both. Her colour also changes really badly, so you know she is stressed. Very common most Veileds do not like to be handled.



We have been feeding her crickets and locusts.

We give her 2 locusts and 4/6 crickets

In the beginning it was twice, 3 times a day now its more like once and some days we still have crickets roaming around in her cage.

We use the standard bug gel, kale and crickets sometimes have had carrot. Ok so her feeding needs to be reduced to 3 feeders 3 days a week only. Gutload needs improvement see image below.



Repti calcium, once a week This should be done at every feeding unless it is a multivitamin day. This balances out the phos to cal levels of the feeders. Without the proper supplementation they pull calcium from their bones making them quite weak.

Multi vitamin exotic terra, once a month This would be done 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th.



I have a small pot on top of cage with a tiny hole in for a water dripper, I fill this pot everytime the pot is empty

We mist her twice a day for about a minute.

I have seen her drink in the last week, but not all the time I don't see her drink.



We have solid bits of poo, we also get white droppings, sometimes brown droppings.

She has never been tested, as far as I know.



It is a screen cage which is 3ftX2ft This is much too small. It is the chameleon kit which is meant for babies. You need to upgrade to a 2x2x4ft cage to accommodate a lay bin.

Her lighting is zoo med, combi deep domb dual lamp(it is the one that came with the cage) So this is the incorrect UVB lighting. These compact UVB bulbs lead to Metabolic bone disease in chameleons. You want a linear T5HO fixture and a 5.0 or 6% bulb. Then you want 8-9 inches to the closest branch below the fixture for the correct UVI level she needs.

We have the light on for 12 hours and off for 12 hours



Her humidity we have an humidifier that we have poked through the back corner of her cage, it is on the same length of time as light. Turn this off now... These should never be run during the day. Only at night when and if temps are below 67 degrees. They develop respiratory infections when these are run during the day in the heat.

Her humidity is always between 50-70% Too high for a Veiled. Should be 30-50% max during the day.

We have a humidity reader

Temp for your female should be NO hotter then 78-80max at the branch below the heat fixture. A wired temp probe should be used at this site.
You will not ever want basking to be over 78-80 for her. Very important for females because as she ages she needs this temp no higher at basking to help control the amount of eggs she produces. This combined with the reduced feeding controls the clutch size.

ALL fake plants need to be attached to the outside of the cage. You need live plants for her. Veileds will eat plants and fake plants are a huge impaction risk. See image below. Put 1 inch or larger rocks on top of the soil so she does not eat the soil. Absolutely no soil or bark on the bottom of the cage. She need a permanent lay bin as well. See image below.


Her cage is placed under the stairs on a cabinet about 2 and a half ft of the floor. With just me and my boyfriend living here there isn't much traffic for her there.



My concern at the moment is. Saturday night we found a pile of eggs turned out to be 43 eggs in total. She came back up yesterday and seemed OK, today she has been sleeping she can barely keep her eyes open. She needs a Vet now. Call around and find one that knows reptiles. More then likely she has retained eggs or simply the large clutch was too much for her to handle with the lack of proper supplementation and UVB lighting.

Husbandry program that will teach you how to set up and care for her. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/

 

[Beman]

View attachment 305291

Vet right now... Call around find a reptile vet and take her in... Eyes sunk in to this extreme is a sign of death coming... without a vet I doubt she will last until tomorrow.

I went through your husbandry above there is a lot that should be corrected but you need to make sure she will even survive to worry about that.

 

[Mountain Dragon]

View attachment 305291

U really need a vet ASAP

 

[kinyonga]

@Beman said..."She needs a Vet now. Call around and find one that knows reptiles. More then likely she has retained eggs or simply the large clutch was too much for her to handle with the lack of proper supplementation and UVB lighting. Her eyes being sunk into the turrets is a sign of her declining"...I agree 100%. From the way she looks you need to get to the vets ASAP...like yesterday.

Now I understand why some of the eggs look the way they do, she hasn't been getting enough calcium and improper UVB, etc.