Her shedded skin pulled out muscle!!!!help

[kinyonga]

The two creams I mentioned are just to put on the place where the skin ripped off and left a sore.

For a basking light allnyou need is a regular household incandescent light bulb of a wattage that produces the appropriate temperature in the basking area.

Appropriate temperatures allow for proper digestion and thus indirectly play a role in nutrient absorption.

Since most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous its important to dust the insects at almost all feedings with a phosphorous-free calcium powder to help make up for it.

To ensure that a chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving the chameleon to produce the rest from its exposure to the UVB we recommend dusting the insects twice a month with a phosphorous-free calcium/D3 powder. D3 produced from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to the UVB light will not likely build up as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it at will.

Its also recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. prOformed sources of vitamin A will not build up in the system like prEformed sources will and this leaves it up to you to decide whether to give it any prEformed vitamin A or nlt.

Feeding and gutloading the insects prooerly is also important. For crickets, roaches, superworms you can use a wide assortments of greens and veggies.

Hope this helps.

 

[kinyonga]

BTW veileds will eat leaves from plants so I prefer to use real non-poisonous plants.
They can eat greens, veggies and some fruit too.
53 eggs is lot. it would be good if she ,aid less of them IMHO.

 

[Luke-john.spencer]

Thank you for all the info i got a spray to help her shed and the cream to put on the wound. She has also seen a vet at my local petstore the owner is a retired reptile vet. Other than the wound she is a very healthy young lady with beautiful pink colouration. The tail issue isnt going to be a big deal, i cleaned her cage out completely and cleaned everything as per doctors orders. The food and what not arent an issue i have all that locked in from the start but thank you for telling me. Ive tried to give her greens and things like that but she was uninterested. Ive been told my lighting is fine she has a uvb buld to give of light and a ceramic heater which i will turn off at night to not dry her out, i was told that as long as she seems to understand where her basking spot is then dont worry. Ive dont a lot of research into the animal before i got her and got the cage inadvance to set up and check temp and humidity. Thank you very much for all the info and help im confident she will be okay.

 

[Luke-john.spencer]

BTW veileds will eat leaves from plants so I prefer to use real non-poisonous plants.
They can eat greens, veggies and some fruit too.
53 eggs is lot. it would be good if she ,aid less of them IMHO.

I wish she didnt have that many as well but if i decide to breed a large clutch would be good.

 

[kinyonga]

But not good for her.

 

[Luke-john.spencer]

But not good for her.

Well i would assume there is no way for me to shrink her clutch. Nature does its thing she has access to a laying bin 99% of the time other wise im cleaning it out and putting it back. I know you are being helpful but this has turned from me wanting help with an injury to bashing the way i take care of her. lm sorry that it isnt completely by the book but if a trained reptile vet says you're doing great keep it up i cant really argue.

 

[kinyonga]

I did not bash you. I gave you information I thought you might not know that I thought would help you understand things about chameleon keeping that you might not know.

You said..."I would assume there is no way to shrink her clutch. Nature does its thing." ...nature does do its think know the wild. In captivity we mess things up, usually unintentionally...by not being able to provide the exact same insects, climate, lighting, etc that they would get in the wild....so they produce larger clutches and die earlier than they need to in captivity. By controlling/lowering slightly a veiled female's diet at the right times in her cycle (a few days after she has laid her eggs) and slightly lowering her basking temperature its possible to lower the size of the clutch or even stop the reproduction all together...thereby lengthening her life. I've been doing this for years with veiled females. I've been keeping chameleons for over 25 years and hatching and raising hatchlings since 1994 or 1995.

Unfortunately there are still vet's that don't know all that they should about chameleons. I'm not going to judge your vet nor am I telling you how you have to keep your chameleon. I'm just telling you things that I have done with mine and that my results have been good. It's up to you what you chose to do.