Homemade enclosure, any opinion?
- Thread starter Fred02
- Start date
Oh first lets start with temps... Do you have a way to get corrugated plastic sheets or pvc sheets? If so I would put these on the back and two sides only leaving the front open. This will allow for the heat from the lights to warm up the cage ambient temps then you can remove them in summer.
Now lets move to the little man. He is getting chunky. You can tell by his casques and cheeks. How much food is he eating now and how often?
Now lets move to the little man. He is getting chunky. You can tell by his casques and cheeks. How much food is he eating now and how often?
To cover the sides, I should be able to do this....the back is already covered
Does this mean that we can attribute this inactivity to these too low temperatures?
He does not eat much, you have to let 3 or 4 days no eating between meal days, otherwise he is not interested in food.
At each meal (2 per week so...), he eats approximately 5 adult crickets or 2-3 small dubias (1 inch)
Does this mean that we can attribute this inactivity to these too low temperatures?
He does not eat much, you have to let 3 or 4 days no eating between meal days, otherwise he is not interested in food.
At each meal (2 per week so...), he eats approximately 5 adult crickets or 2-3 small dubias (1 inch)
Wow amazing with such low food intake that he is holding so much in his casque. So keep him there with the 2 feeding days and the amounts your doing.
I would say so for the temps... He may be having a hard time warming himself back up. If I have a particularly cold night and my temps get lower than normal mid 60's then Beman's enclosure which is a hybrid style is colder. He will take his time getting out of his sleep spot to move up to the lights. But for the most part his hybrid enclosure starts warming back up pretty quickly with normal night time temp lows. So he is up and at it faster.
I got it at the end of October and therefore I don't know how it behaves in summer or mid-season...but I remember very well, when I went to buy it, it was going from left to right in its terrarium. It was the only time I saw him move!!!
I correct: I see him move when the sparys light up and he is in front, there he shifts in 10 seconds....but the rest of the time, he is motionless.
He changes places of course, but it takes him hours and as soon as he arrives, he won't move an inch for hours...
When it goes under its spot, its colors tarnish and darken...that's normal....
I would so love to see him evolve in this beautiful and large terrarium that I made for him, there it is very frustrating to see nothing at all happen......
69° where he is now.....
I correct: I see him move when the sparys light up and he is in front, there he shifts in 10 seconds....but the rest of the time, he is motionless.
He changes places of course, but it takes him hours and as soon as he arrives, he won't move an inch for hours...
When it goes under its spot, its colors tarnish and darken...that's normal....
I would so love to see him evolve in this beautiful and large terrarium that I made for him, there it is very frustrating to see nothing at all happen......
69° where he is now.....
What are the supplements your using now?
Can you show me the front labels of all three of them so I can double check the types being used?
Can you get a hold of repashy supplements where you live? Specifically this one https://www.store.repashy.com/calcium-plus-4-lod-oz-bag.html
If you can I would drop the multivitamin your using along with the exo terra D3 for this repashy Calcium plus Lod. Then you only use this one 2 times a month say the 1st and the 15th. It is more balanced for chameleons. Also it is phosphorus free. You would keep using the repticalcium without D3 at all other feedings.
