jadeloveschams26
Member
i updated her cage, she has calcium without D3 & the t5 line UVB, i need to get her more vines and live plants.I'll put my comments in blue.
- my chameleon, marley She is a lovely girl. You are right she could use some calories.
• handling - only when needed Good they are shy and it does stress them.
• feeding - wax worms, meal worms, crickets keep bowl full of 2-3 at all times so she can eat when she pleases. Meal worms are a poor feeder more keratin than digestible food you can substitute super worms but only use them for about 10% of her diet. I'm guessing the wax worms are to fatten her up phase them out when she bulks up. Crickets, silkworms, Phoenix worms & flies, hornworms and a feeder roach species are all good choices to rotate for variety.
• supplements - repticalcium with D3, throw a scoop in a bag and shake up the worms & crickets in it
There are two good schedules that people have had long term success using. "Feeder insects should be lightly dusted with powdered supplement before being fed to your chameleon. As a montane species (native to higher altitudes) Jackson's have decreased supplementation requirements compared to tropical species due to metabolism differences. Use calcium (without D3 or phosphorus) twice a week, a multivitamin once a month, and calcium with D3 once a month." Or you can get Repashy Calcium Plus LoD I use it lightly weekly in my growing or pregnant Jackson's (Monday) or every other week for the adult males. Then they get plain calcium two other times per week (Wednesday & Friday).
• watering - little dripper, shell drink straight from the dripper or the bark it’s dripping onto, i don’t have a mister yet so i’ve been hand misting to keep the humidity above 60 - 70 Day time humidity can hover between 35-50%. Night time should be 80-100% when it is cool. Combined heat and humidity leads to infections, respiratory and temporal gland primarily.
• fecal - whiteish, clear urine. followed by a solid brown poop, not exactly sure what to look for. poop has not been tested. A fecal would be a good idea after she settles in.
• history - petco cham, she’s been finicky about eating even when they had her, loves wax worms & crickets. doesn’t care too much for meal worms. Likely she's a little toxic from all the D3 they have been giving her and the stress of being on display and possible parasite issues.
• cage - it’s a glass, half circle. the center of the cage gives about just under a foot in width. about 2 & 1/2 feet deep and about 1 & 1/2 ft long. It is a beautiful cage but as mentioned above it will become to small for her quickly. I think it would be more appropriate for frogs or other amphibians. Controlled ventilation is important for chameleons. Glass cages are used by people in your area for the reasons you mentioned but they all have some vents down low so that a chimney of ventilation is produced by the heat from the lights. Without the lover vent it is going to be stagnant in her cage. If the cage was larger you might save it with a small computer fan but you are already having space problems at the top. A 18x18x36 is the minimum size for her as an adult with 24x24x48 being optimum. Height is key because it allows you to create more options of heat light and humidity for her to self regulate. Screen cage with plastic covered sides or glass Exo Terra of suitable height could work for you. DragonStrand has some excellent options as well.
• lighting - 75 watt night blue heat lamp (exo-terra) 75 watt day basking light, 75 watt uvb
Chameleons need darkness at night to sleep properly for metabolic function. Jackson's also need a temperature drop into the 55-65˚F range to power down at night. You will want all lights off at night and daylight for 12 hours daily like they would get near the equator. Sadly the coiled UVB bulbs don't make enough to keep a chameleon healthy. Linear T5 bulbs are the best thing available currently to imitate the sun. I recommend getting a 2 bulb fixture one T5 6% bulb and one plant light (6500K) plenty of UVB and will keep you plants alive. Basking bulb depends on heat needed 40, 50 or 60 Watt is usually enough to create a 78-80˚ basking spot and retain the 72˚F ambient for the rest of the cage. Varies by house hold and season adjust accordingly.
•temp - temp stays at about 80 degrees That is a little warm for a sub adult I try to start around 78˚basking until they are a year old. I hope the rest of the cage is cooler or she will dehydrate quickly.
• humidity - this is where i’m having trouble, i don’t have an automatic mister yet so i hans mist her everytime i see it drop below 60. sometimes at night i wake up and it’s as 40, which i know is too low, saving up for an automatic mister. You can be around 40-50 daytime I would start with a cool mist humidifier directed by hose into her cage for the night time boost.
• plants - no live plants yet, she loves her fake pot leafs lol Live plants create pockets of humidity that will help you out. Pothos is cheap and hardy and available at any Lowe's or Home Depot and most grocery stores. rinse the leaves well and cover the soil with large stones, too large to eat by accident. There are many other choices if you want. https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/plants/
• placement - cage is on my desk about 3-4 feet from my window, top of cage sits about just under 5 feet from the floor.
• location - mile high city, denver colorado VERY DRY ALL THE TIME HERE !!
I know this is a lot to take in but you have come to a very supportive community and there is a ton of help here. Feel free to ask as many questions as you need. Here is a link to a collection of Jackson's articles etc. it includes a very good care sheet. Jackson's Chameleon Articles and Studies
i hope i included enough information about marley and her habitat, please let me know if i should change anything
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