I am new here and eager to learn! Here are some pis of my new baby Veiled Chams!

Kansascity

Kansascity

New Member


Good evening to all, My name is Angelina! I recently purchased two veiled chams from Flchams. I have a 3 month old female and a 4 month old male. The female is doing awesome she is eating very well loves crickets and meal worms she could care less for the silk worms. The male has been climbing the screen more then the vine so he can bask, but overall he has a great appetite as well. I have to switch them out because the female should be in the medium cage and he in the small at least that was what was recommended. I hand mist 4-5 times per day 5min or more they are drinking well. I am concerned that the male is not getting enough basking time under the lamp (which should be with 12 inches when the cam is basking) what should I do? It was difficult tracking down appropriate plants but I found some. Asparagus plant, Jade, and the gardenia plant which I am burning most of the middle of the plant so I raised the lamp a tiny bit. I have bamboo sticks coming anytime from CA and two weeping figs which now I have enough plants in there at this time. I am new and have been researching the site on previous discussions so that I don’t mistakingly ask something that has been addressed previously. Please let me know what you think of there homes I hope I am headed in the right direction so far.:eek::eek: The 1st pic is the female cam but if you look closely you can see her face peeking at you. The 2nd pic is obviously my setups 3rd pic is male cham just hanging on the screen, and the last one is of him as well I received the female Thursday and the male Friday. whattype of veggies can I give them if any? and the temps stay between 70-80F
 
Welcome! Im new to the forums as well but Ive kept chams for about 4 years now. They look really good, my suggestion would be to get more sturdy branches and vines in both cages, almost like 'walkways" for them to climb on, that way maybe your male might stop crawling on the screen. Anyway good luck with everything
 
jannb said:
Welcome to the forums! I keep veileds and have three Luie, Camille and their daughter Elly and also six panthers at the moment. I'm attaching my blog for new keepers below and hope that it will help you to keep your new babies healthy and happy. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blo...-keepers-young-veiled-panther-chameleons.html
Click to expand...

I am confused I see that you and others mention to have the 5.0 tubular UVB hood and a basking light. I bought the lights that provide UVB and heat all in one is that ok?
 
shanksfaml said:
I see you are already getting some great advice but, could also use a visual divider between the 2 little cuties.
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I need to move my potted plant that is next to it or place the plant back in between the two cages. I had to clean the water off of the chest when I was missing plus wanted to take a photo.
 
So I am assuming I need to go out in the morning and buy the tubular UVB 5.0 but cant I buy a UVB in the clamp lamp style instead? I edited my last post on the 1st page to explain which lights I was using.
 
Kansascity said:
So I am assuming I need to go out in the morning and buy the tubular UVB 5.0 but cant I buy a UVB in the clamp lamp style instead? I edited my last post on the 1st page to explain which lights I was using.
Click to expand...

I just bought a 5.0 tubular uvb/uva bulb 24in for 20, and a duel hood for them for 25 at homedepot. Welcome to the forum!!
 
Kansascity said:
So I am assuming I need to go out in the morning and buy the tubular UVB 5.0 but cant I buy a UVB in the clamp lamp style instead? I edited my last post on the 1st page to explain which lights I was using.
Click to expand...


Many say that the compact uvb lights can cause eye problems for some chameleons. The Reptisun 5.0 tube has not had any complaints from any aspect, so I've heard.
It also looks like you have sand in the bottom, but it could just be the lighting and shadows messing me up... if it is, get it out of there so your cham doesn't accidentally eat it when shooting for a bug. Same applies to any plant pots... cover the soil with rocks bigger than the cham's head if you haven't already done so.
 
kaylie said:
Many say that the compact uvb lights can cause eye problems for some chameleons. The Reptisun 5.0 tube has not had any complaints from any aspect, so I've heard.
It also looks like you have sand in the bottom, but it could just be the lighting and shadows messing me up... if it is, get it out of there so your cham doesn't accidentally eat it when shooting for a bug. Same applies to any plant pots... cover the soil with rocks bigger than the cham's head if you haven't already done so.
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No there is no sand but tonight placed rocks over the plants soil (did use organic soil as well, I have paper towels on the bottom floor. Thanks.
 
what lighting is better??
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog...por-bulbs/-/zoo-med-15-repti-sun-50-uvb-bulb/

or

http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog...r-bulbs/-/exo-terra-18-repti-glo-50-uvb-bulb/

I had the coil one and my bigger baby kept her eyes closed alot when it was on. As soon as I turned it off she was walking around wide eyed! So i think it does make a difference what kind you have.

About the rocks on the dirt in plants that is great to know thank you I swear I learn something new everytime i log in!!
 
lilwish said:
what lighting is better??
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog...por-bulbs/-/zoo-med-15-repti-sun-50-uvb-bulb/

or

http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog...r-bulbs/-/exo-terra-18-repti-glo-50-uvb-bulb/

I had the coil one and my bigger baby kept her eyes closed alot when it was on. As soon as I turned it off she was walking around wide eyed! So i think it does make a difference what kind you have.

About the rocks on the dirt in plants that is great to know thank you I swear I learn something new everytime i log in!!
Click to expand...

I am using the bulb version not the coil. But I will go out again today and buy another lamp and uvb build they are not having any issues just don’t understand why I have to buy now a tubular 5.0 with the hood when the bulbs I am using already give them the same as the tubular hooded version which omits heat and Uva/uvb rays and the temps are perfect as well as humidity in the cages.
 
You don't mention gutloading/feeding the insects or supplementing...here's some information that might help...

Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. Temperatures needed can vary with the species.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).

If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).

Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite.)

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
 
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