Kaizen
Chameleon Enthusiast
Nice catch on the “replace every six months.”
I finally got one!! ...HELP!
- Thread starter Mundanechamlady
- Start date
Kaizen
Chameleon Enthusiast
Here are the fixtures I use. They come with a plant bulb, but just swap that for your uvb.:
https://www.amazon.com/Sunblaster-9...993&s=specialty-aps&sprefix=sunblaster&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Sunblaster-9...993&s=specialty-aps&sprefix=sunblaster&sr=8-2
Kaizen
Chameleon Enthusiast
skoram
Established Member
There are actually no better bulbs than the Reptisun and Arcadia bulbs I linked (unfortunately it seems Amazon doesn't sell Arcadia bulbs but you can find them at Light Your Reptiles, Josh's Frogs, LLLReptiles and a number of other retailers). The Arcadia are known to last quite a bit longer so those would be recommended over the Reptisun.
10.0/12% are sometimes recommended over the 5.0/6% and could be more beneficial for your cham depending on a number of factors, but without a UVI meter like the Solarmeter 6.5, there is a risk of UV overexposure. The 5.0/6% are "safe."
There is, as far as I know, no reason to get a really expensive fixture. They are nothing more than housing with a ballast and a reflector. A $50 Zoomed fixture will be just as effective as a $500 fixture from another brand. The only difference is the multi-tube fixtures like the one Multivitamins recommended. While this will provide more light for your plants, it will greatly reduce the effective UVB reaching your cham due to the shape of the reflector. The difference is, by most accounts, significant. You will almost definitely have to use 10.0/12% bulbs if you have a multi-bulb fixture.
I prefer to use a single tube fixture for my UVB and separate LED lights for my plants. Some LEDs are extremely effective, use much electricity and last many years longer.
Kaizen
Chameleon Enthusiast
The point about a single uvb fixture for your Cham and LEDs for the plants makes a lot of sense to me. I personally don’t use the latter because all my stuff is in a greenhouse, but the new high PAR LEDs that give off bright white light are supposed to be phenomenal. Also, just as an aside, they make LED “tubes” that fit into a regular t5 fixture now.
snitz427
Chameleon Enthusiast
I second the Sansi bulbs - I have them all over the place, my plants love them! I would go with the 36w or 70w (or 2 36w). They go on sale on Amazon pretty regularly. My plants do very well with these and I like the color of the light it produces much mure than the 6500k lights.
Kaizen
Chameleon Enthusiast
What color temp are they?
snitz427
Chameleon Enthusiast
There’s a chart on amazon’s page for it. I dont know too much about the science of lighting.
Mundanechamlady
New Member
That's a very good call, I have a few lights on my plants just to limp them through the winter, I'll likely purchase a full spectrum led bar for the cage as well!
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Mundanechamlady
New Member
So here's a question, I was under the impression (without any research, just thought) that the uvb bar was sufficient enough for the chameleon and the plants, is it possible to replace the uvb 'reptile' light with a full spectrum grow light? Just trying to see if I'm reading this conversation correctly!
jamest0o0
Chameleon Enthusiast
Aren't sansi 6500k?
snitz427
Chameleon Enthusiast
Tihshho
Established Member
Sadly the answer is no. A UVB T5 is there to help with Calcium D3 production where the rest of the lighting is used for daylight 'heat' spots and for plant growth. There are not currently any full spectrum bulbs on the market that produce the correct UVB and in the amount necessary to be a UVB replacement.
skoram
Established Member
A UVB tube won't even be close to sufficient for plants. You will probably need at least 3 light sources - one for UVB, another for visible light and a third for heat (the basking lamp). There are bulbs that allow you to combine UVB and heat (mercury vapor, metal hallide), or strong visible light and heat (halogen), but they aren't recommended. If you keep the sources separate you can control each element individually to match the ideal parameters for your chameleon and plants.
A multi-tube T5HO fixture (there are options with 2, 3, 4 or more sockets) will allow you put a UVB bulb and a visible light bulb (full spectrum fluorescent or T5 LED) into the same fixture. If you choose to go this route note that the multi-tube fixtures are typically much more expensive than single tube fixtures and you will likely need to purchase 10.0/12% UVB bulbs to compensate for the lower efficiency of a wider reflector.
Here are some links to sites that I've found with really excellent information about chameleon lighting:
Lighting for Chameleons - Part 1
Lighting for Chameleons - Part 2
UV Guide UK
Kaizen
Chameleon Enthusiast
I think the idea here was that a single reflected t5 ho uvb lamp would be used for d3, and an LED array of some sort would be there for the plants.
Mundanechamlady
New Member
Okay, so a few questions. Most important one first:
Mr.Chameleon, lovingly named Maxameleon by my kids, as he will now be referred to, has been going to just about the very bottom of his cage to chill in the umbrella plant's soil. He seems to have spent most of his time there today. I gently scooped him up and placed him back to the top, fed him some crickets, which he happily chomped down, sprayed down the plants and left him alone.
Are the lights I have on too much? Is he sick??
Not so important update:
I got the new cage, but I've yet to get the tray (comes tomorrow)
This is what I have so far for the "skeleton"
I plan on making a small hole in the back and siliconing a pipe fitting to it; this will connect to the other piping and *vwalla!* mister nozzles hidden, yet easily replaceable!
I am now thinking of making a "false- false bottom" to sit maybe 4-5 inches above the tray, that would consist of sturdy material that will easily allow water to pour through. Something like the light panel in the back, but sturdy enough to hold a few plants' weight. Cover it with mesh, a very light sprinkle of coconut fiber and organic potting mix, and do a moss panel bottom. Excess water drips through the moss, extra humidity added, easy clean up for me!
All pipes will be covered with silicon and coated in coconut fiber and moss mix.
Im not too sure if i'm happy with only 2 bars...I will be adding more vines, a few grape branches and indoor ficus tree cuttings, so for now, I'll leave it until I have a clearer picture.
I had some acrylic panel laying around, just need to get more cement, already cut it into 26x26 along with the appropriately measured sides; a water catcher for the outside of the cage, but now, I realize the bottom hatch likely won't open if I make it the way I want. Will have to do some maths+brain power to figure that one out. Install the front wall at an angle perhaps?
Panel in the back will be zip tied to piping, smothered in pond foam and decorated accordingly!
Thoughts?
At this point do I start a new thread??
Also, the 2 beauts in the 2nd pic were calling my name. Got the neon pothos for FIVE dollars!! (Insert happy dance here)
Mr.Chameleon, lovingly named Maxameleon by my kids, as he will now be referred to, has been going to just about the very bottom of his cage to chill in the umbrella plant's soil. He seems to have spent most of his time there today. I gently scooped him up and placed him back to the top, fed him some crickets, which he happily chomped down, sprayed down the plants and left him alone.
Are the lights I have on too much? Is he sick??
Not so important update:
I got the new cage, but I've yet to get the tray (comes tomorrow)
This is what I have so far for the "skeleton"
I plan on making a small hole in the back and siliconing a pipe fitting to it; this will connect to the other piping and *vwalla!* mister nozzles hidden, yet easily replaceable!
I am now thinking of making a "false- false bottom" to sit maybe 4-5 inches above the tray, that would consist of sturdy material that will easily allow water to pour through. Something like the light panel in the back, but sturdy enough to hold a few plants' weight. Cover it with mesh, a very light sprinkle of coconut fiber and organic potting mix, and do a moss panel bottom. Excess water drips through the moss, extra humidity added, easy clean up for me!
All pipes will be covered with silicon and coated in coconut fiber and moss mix.
Im not too sure if i'm happy with only 2 bars...I will be adding more vines, a few grape branches and indoor ficus tree cuttings, so for now, I'll leave it until I have a clearer picture.
I had some acrylic panel laying around, just need to get more cement, already cut it into 26x26 along with the appropriately measured sides; a water catcher for the outside of the cage, but now, I realize the bottom hatch likely won't open if I make it the way I want. Will have to do some maths+brain power to figure that one out. Install the front wall at an angle perhaps?
Panel in the back will be zip tied to piping, smothered in pond foam and decorated accordingly!
Thoughts?
At this point do I start a new thread??
Also, the 2 beauts in the 2nd pic were calling my name. Got the neon pothos for FIVE dollars!! (Insert happy dance here)
Attachments
Mundanechamlady
New Member
For the drainage, i'm going to make a false-false bottom, 5" or so above the plastic tray made out of [likely] a double layer of the paneling I have on the back for support, mesh liner and moss as a "floor" and whatever water spills through the moss would land into the tray which [hopefully] easily ne able to simply wipe away once a day.
I don't plan on using the acrylic on any of the panels, but, a 2-3" deep 'aquarium' so to speak; it would sit on the outside of the cage and catch whatever water lands on the exterior of the cage instead of interior. All 4 sides will continue being mesh, acrylic tray thing would be the border to catch any water that spills out through the mesh. Does that make any sense?
skoram
Established Member
Ok. I'm having a bit of a hard time following exactly what you mean but it sounds like you have made good arrangements for drainage. A quick sketch or diagram might be helpful. At any rate, as long as you are able to collect and remove standing water you are good. All you need now is good lighting/UVB.
