shorlacher
New Member
Thank you.
I need help fast!
- Thread starter shorlacher
- Start date
Thank you.
For the male to have horns that long I would say he is over 6 months old and if the female is a comparable size then so is she. She could very well be gravid and that might be why she was fighting with the male.
You said you stopped feeding her...you should let her decide if she wants to eat of not IMHO. If she is not eating on her own and you are force feeding her be careful not to get any of it in the opening to the lungs....but I only would force feed her as a last resort.
If she is gravid the less you have to handle her the better IMHO.
You said..."i took her to the vets and he said that she has a infetion on her left rear foot and gave me an antibotic and a antinflamitory medication and he said that she was very dehydrated"...did he clean out the infected area or just put her on the meds?...the swelling isn't likely to go away and the bacteria won't likely be killed if the infected area was not cleaned out.
Your supplementing needs improvement...and do you gutload the insects?
Did you remove the substrate? I hope she didn't ingest any of it.
You said you stopped feeding her...you should let her decide if she wants to eat of not IMHO. If she is not eating on her own and you are force feeding her be careful not to get any of it in the opening to the lungs....but I only would force feed her as a last resort.
If she is gravid the less you have to handle her the better IMHO.
You said..."i took her to the vets and he said that she has a infetion on her left rear foot and gave me an antibotic and a antinflamitory medication and he said that she was very dehydrated"...did he clean out the infected area or just put her on the meds?...the swelling isn't likely to go away and the bacteria won't likely be killed if the infected area was not cleaned out.
Your supplementing needs improvement...and do you gutload the insects?
Did you remove the substrate? I hope she didn't ingest any of it.
Elizadolots
New Member
The mineral oil wouldn't hurt. I would quit applying pressure to her abdomen.
shorlacher
New Member
Everyone kept talking about babies I quite the presure on her belly right away.
This morning she is in the same spot and has not moved.....she also did not have a bowel movement.
Should I just wait it out or what should I do?
shorlacher
New Member
The vet lanced her foot and told me that I did not have to clean it or anything, he said the soaking her 30 mins daily would clean it out.
What do you suggest with the supplements?
Yes I did remove the substrate, what should I replace it with?
I am a new owner to the Chameleon world, I did alot of research when I got them and everyone has a diffrent opion. Everyone on here seems to be saying the samething over and over again.......she might be prego....
I just don't know what to do.....I don't want to loose her...she is now a part of the family....
Its quite possible that she is gravid...so I would try not to handle her any more than necessary.
Not sure if lancing the foot will be good enough...but I think not.
Its best not to use any substrate since its hard to tell which ones will cause impactions and which won't.
Here's some information I hope will help you with supplementing, etc.....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
Not sure if lancing the foot will be good enough...but I think not.
Its best not to use any substrate since its hard to tell which ones will cause impactions and which won't.
Here's some information I hope will help you with supplementing, etc.....
Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.
Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.
A wide variety of insects that have been well fed and gutloaded should be fed to it.
Since many of the feeder insects we use in captivity have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects just before you feed them to the chameleon at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it. (I use Rep-cal phosphorus-free calcium).
If you also dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it. (I use Rep-cal phos.-free calcium/D3).
Dusting twice a month as well with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while. (I use herptivite which has beta carotene.)
Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)
Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.
Please note that various supplements have various amounts of D3 and vitamin A and so some can be given more often than others. The idea still is not to overdo the fat soluble vitamins like D3 and prEformed vitamin A.
Here are some good sites for you to read too...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200406080...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
If you can't access the sites above that have the word "archive" in you can do it through the WayBackMachine.
shorlacher
New Member
shorlacher
New Member
Thank you.......
Solid Snake
Avid Member
The Vitamin A is Zoo Med Reptivite with D3 and the Calcium is Fluker's with D3. I feed crickets once a day in the evening I dust crickets one time with the vitamin a and then the next day I will dust them with the calcium.
Jacksons are very touchy when it comes to supplementation.
You can OD a chameleon on D3 supplement.
They D3 from the UVB is safe, and can never be overdone.
If you have been giving that many doses of D3 and vit a, for more than a week, you need to stop supplementing immediately IMO.
You need to get a calcium powder that is JUST calcium, no D3, no phosphorous.
Stop ALL feeding for one whole week.(this will help balance the animals vitamins back out.) I would then recommend that you start giving calcium on three feeders a week, evenly spaced.
The vitamin A can be given once every six weeks.
The Fountains are table top battery operated. The you can buy at walmart or any other retail place.
These need to be removed. The water will just harbor bacteria, and spread disease amongst your animals.
I dont see anything good about them
The substrate is Zoo Med Echo Earth Loose Coconut Fiber. And I change that every week.
Yes take that out, as stated.
Lighting is..... Zoo Med 100wat UVB & UVA and that is on 12 hours a day. The Zoo Med Nocturnal Infrared Light I put on because our house will get about 40 degrees at night. The 76 to 80 is ambiant temp.... I don't have a basking lamp for them.
It is 86F during the day, and 40F at nite?
At the risk of sounding rude, are you sure of these temps?
What do you use to measure them?
A light at nite is very undesirable. Jackson chameleons can take a temperature drop down into the low 50's, and probably the high 40's. I dont risk past 50F myself.
The humidifier is a heat one that you can buy at walmart for your children (that is what the vet said to get.)
If it is not close to the cages, and just in the room with them, this should be fine.
When I got the chameleons in December, they were together in the same cage and fought all the time. So I went and bought another cage and set it up and put the female in that one. In the mix of all the fighting her skin around the nail was pulled away and I read on the internet that I should soak her foot in betadine and water. And the skin formed back but her foot stayed swollen and the vet said that she has an infection and gave her Meloxicam .03ml once a day for 5 days and Enrofloxacin .03ml once a day for 14 days.
Your chameleons are 8-10 in the pictures that you posted of them together.
