I think my chameleon is dying, unresponsive, not moving

[Kristin919]

I have a bunch of syringes from the vet that I can use, I already squirt water into his mouth when he opens it with a spray bottle, I could try to pick up the appetite boost didn't even know that was a thing so I'll try that maybe he'll get some strength back, should I try mixing his calcium/vitamin powder into his water that i squirt into his mouth? this way he's getting his nutrients? because he's not eating much otherwise, thank you for the help

also are horn worms high in protein and what about wax worms? because it sounds like I should try something other than crickets since you said they're high protein, what alternative foods are low in protein that he can eat?

 

[Kristin919]

Does he keep his mouth open for long durations?

You might want to get a plastic syringe without a needle and slowly put some water in his mouth when he opens it. Flukers appetite boost comes with a plastic syringe and it might not hurt to use the powder that you mix with water but follow the directions exactly to liquid feed it. I wouldn’t give it feeders with that are naturally high in protein with gout it makes the crystals (gout) in the joints more prevalent and swells up more. Natural sunlight might do it some good as long as it’s half shade/half sunlight and you would have to closely monitor your chameleon though. Something I hope you don’t have to do is put it to sleep but it would be better than it suffering. Putting it to sleep is the very last resort! I hope it recovers for you!

also his mouth isn't always open, it's open in the photos because he hates cell phones and hisses like crazy at them so he was grumpy, other than that it's mostly closed

 

[GreenChameleons]

also his mouth isn't always open, it's open in the photos because he hates cell phones and hisses like crazy at them so he was grumpy, other than that it's mostly closed

Okay I was just wandering

 

[Mawtyplant]

Chameleon Info:
• Your Chameleon – Male Veiled Chameleon. 2 years old
• Handling – rarely do I handle him, I have been handling him the past day or two to help him get back on his vines because he's draped over falling off of them. But little to no handling, an occasional trip outside to bask in the sunlight in his old medium reptibreeze cage.
• Feeding – He gets about five – eight crickets per day that are dusted with calcium without D3 and with D3 twice a month and vitamins twice a month. (however he doesn't always eat all 5-8, he doesn't seem interested in eating, I used to cup fed him and now he doesn't cae for eating I think he's eating just to survive).
• Supplements – I dust his crickets with Fluker’s calcium with vitamin D3 twice a month. I give him Rep-Cal Herptivite Multivitamins twice a month.
• Watering – I spray his cage about three or four times a day, I have a mister but it broke and didn't do a great job so I do it myself and he has a little dripper dripping all the time and I sprits water into his mouth because he has trouble drinking by himself I don't think he knows how to get water.
• Fecal Description - His droppings are not frequent, liquidy and the urites are offwhite-yellow.
• History – not sure what is meant by history? I got him from a local pet store which got him from a local breeder. He was doing well until about 1 1/2 years old, he developed the leg problem and we took him to the vet.

Cage Info:
• Cage Type – It’s an all screened cage. (24” x 24” x 48”) 2ftx2ftx4ft
• Lighting – zoomed white UVB bulb 50watt, 50 watt blue sun light bulb UVA. They go twelve hours on and twelve hours off.
• Temperature – I have gauges set up in his cage. His cool side is about 70 degrees and his basking spot is about 80-85 degrees.
• Humidity – I have a hygrometer in his cage. The humidity usually stays anywhere from 50% to 70%.
• Plants – I have a Pothos plant. He eats it from time to time, I put a scheflera arborricola in his cage and he ate that a little but it died pretty quickly so I removed it.
• Placement – In my room, setting on top of a rigged draining system. Near a window for natural sunlight, the cage sits in a washing machine drainage pan with a glued siphon on the bottom that drains into a bin.
• Location – I’m located in New Jersey in the United States.

Current Problem – He seems to be fading away, unresponsive, has the hind leg issue, doesn't seem to be eating the past few days. (My first post explains it more in detail)

What do you mean by zoomed white UVB bulb 50watt and how old is the lamp?
your basking spot is too low, you want to get 10 more degres (so 90-95)

 

[Mawtyplant]

What do you mean by zoomed white UVB bulb 50watt and how old is the lamp?
your basking spot is too low, you want to get 10 more degres (so 90-95)

Also, herptivite does not contain any source of preformed vitamin A, i suggest you to switch to repashy multivitamin or any other with a preformed vitamin A source. Herpirivite are good for calcium but not good with multi.. :/)


another option is too add silk work too the diet, silkwork are good because they contin natual source of serrapeptasis, an anti-inflamatory substance

Good luck! :/

 

[GreenChameleons]

also are horn worms high in protein and what about wax worms? because it sounds like I should try something other than crickets since you said they're high protein, what alternative foods are low in protein that he can eat?

Most insects have protein in them but you could try black soldier flies they tend to act as somewhat of antibiotic or probiotic in chameleon’s it would help his immune system greatly and they are high in calcium which would do your chameleon some good. Or you could try blue bottle flies. They both are larvae stage but you can feed them in that stage as well as when they become flies. Praying mantis’ might be a good choice too. You could let the hornworms change into hawk moths but that takes some time though. I have caught house flies and moths to feed but you have to be very careful about theYou can get them at joshsfrogs.com