I'm a new Chameleon Mom :)

Ok guys, I got rid of the Eco-Earth, Pascal was not thrilled as it shook the vine she was standing on by accident. XD She now seems content and is basking under the heat bulb.

I reworked the vines to move better around the dripper. She usually drinks straight from it by standing on the vine near by and reaching over...then she enjoys climbing up the tube and hanging out on the roof.
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Here is the set up now...I will keep a close eye on her with the light bulb as I cannot afford a whole new fixture and UVB bulb right at this moment.

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One of you guys mentioned putting in branches and twigs from outside, after it rains? I really don't know if I trust things from outdoors wouldn't they be a problem as far as bacteria?
 
You can get fixtures from a hardware store a little cheaper (it's just a florescent light fixture) just leave off the plastic cover (as plastic, glass, etc. filter out uvb).

Do what you feel best but with so much talk of the risk with the coil bulbs I wouldn't risk it, even if you had to barrow some money imo it'd be cheaper than a vet
 
Welcome to the forum!
Senegals are not the usual chameleon to start off with but I've always liked the ones I've had and I haven't found them to be any harder to keep than a veiled!

Although I've never had a female Senegal lay eggs without being mated, its still a good idea to have an opaque container (at least 12" deep x 12" x 8") filled about 3/4 full of moistened washed playsand in her cage in case she needs to lay eggs.

Here's some information you might like to read.....
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it.

If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. (Some UVB lights have been known to cause health issues, so the most often recommended one is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.) D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.

Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while.

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs....so its important too. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200604210...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
 
You can put stones over the soil in the plant pot. Please lose the moss -- it's really not worth the risk. Also, what is that little container of green stuff?

You're doing well asking questions and adjusting things! Most of us here are still learning.
 
Green stuff.....I think you might be talking about the feeding dish in the right corner?
I keep that there for when I give her the worms, I hold it up to her level and let her eat out of it.
 
carol5208 said:
I hate to say this but maybe not a good choice either. I am attaching a thread from august about the zilla bulbs. Please read what Dave Wheldon has to say in the last post. https://www.chameleonforums.com/r-zilla-25-tropical-bulb-10146/ It is up to you but none of us have any problems with the Reptisun 5.0's. you can order them online from LLL Reptile.
Click to expand...

I'm really nervous now. It says this bulb will kill my chameleon in a few days? Why are these bulbs even allowed to be sold if they just kill animals? If I order something online it will take a few days to get here...how will I keep lil' Pascal alive during that time without a light? if this light is going to kill her before the new one gets here?
 
I just pm'd you back. The original Zilla's were killing animals but they have made improvements. Dave Wheldon stated that he was still skeptical about using them because Zilla had not responded to some important questions that were presented to them. I would take back the Zilla, use the compact until the Reptisun gets to your house and leave the compact in unless you see your chameleon displaying eye problems which it may never even do. As stated by some of the members, Compacts have worked for some with no issues at all.Everything will be ok! Try not to freak!! I know its hard!
 
Senegals are very under-rated...maybe partly because they are not very colorful? WC? Supposed to carry a lot of parasites?
 
kinyonga said:
Senegals are very under-rated...maybe partly because they are not very colorful? WC? Supposed to carry a lot of parasites?
Click to expand...

Probably all of the above, lol. We lucked out and found a great importer. He actually keeps them for a few months before selling them to make sure they're healthy. Ours was actually kept for about 7 months after he got him. We've had him for about 6
 
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