(im new) chameleon assistance?

thejewgo

New Member
ive had schneider skinks, anoles, and snapping turtles before, i decided to get a juvenile veiled chameleon. bought terrariums for when he is an adult and for right now as a juvenile. i feed him crickets with calcium and d3, but not sure if hes eating em or not.. O_O i see poop so im guessin hes eating em, mist the terrarium 2-3 times a day, uvb light bulb, small branches.

his name is Reptar :D

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Hello welcome to the forum. what part of CA are you in? We have tons of members from there.

Here is a care sheet to get you started with Reptar. Also so if you look to the right of where you post there is a complete resource that may help a lot. This is the care sheet for veileds.


Veiled Chameleons - General Care

Temperature:
Baby/juvenile (<9 months): ambient 72-80F (22-26C), basking 85F (29C)
Adult males: ambient 75-80F (23-26C), basking 90-95F (32-35C)
Adult females: ambient 75-80F (23-26C), basking 85F (29C)

Ambient temperature refers to the temperature near the bottom of the cage and basking temperature refers to the hottest point accessible to your chameleon. Basking is where a chameleon absorbs heat from an external overhead source to help regulate their body temperature; it also promotes proper digestion and a healthy metabolism. Nighttime temperatures can safely drop down to 50F (10C) so a night heat source should not be used unless temperatures are lower than this. If night heat is needed a ceramic heat emitter or space heater should be used, not a light bulb, even red or black bulbs.

Humidity:
Humidity is an important aspect of chameleon husbandry. Veiled chameleons require levels around 40-70%, which can be achieved by several misting sessions a day over all areas of the cage. Live plants help increase and maintain humidity. Sometimes a cool mist humidifier or timer-controlled misting system is needed. See Water & Humidity for more information.

Cage Size:
In general when housing chameleons, bigger is better. Veiled chameleons are highly territorial and easily stressed by the presence of other chameleons, even of their own species. Two or more veiled chameleons should never be kept in the same cage. Cages should be furnished with many plants and climbing branches to provide opportunities for exercise and plenty of places for hiding. Substrate (mulch, soil, etc.) should not be used in chameleon cages. See Chameleon Enclosures for more information.


screen cage (length x width x height):

juveniles/sub-adults
: 16x16x30" (40x40x76cm)
adult female minimum: 18x18x36" (45x45x90cm)
adult male minimum: 24x24x48" (60x60x120cm)

Lighting:
All lighting and heat bulbs should be outside and on top of the cage. There should be 12 hours of UVB light, along with 12 hours of darkness for proper rest. A UVB bulb is necessary to synthesize vitamin D3 in the skin and to facilitate absorption of dietary calcium. UVB bulbs only emit UVB rays for 6-8 months, even if they’re still shining, so they must be replaced at least twice a year. A basking bulb creates the heat gradient so that your cold-blooded chameleon can regulate its body temperature by moving into warmer or cooler zones as needed. When choosing a basking bulb start with a 60watt bulb and monitor temperature closely. Higher wattage bulbs are hotter in temperature and vice versa so choose the appropriate wattage bulb based on the temperatures achieved. A bulb that makes it too hot can burn your chameleon badly even from several inches away and through the screen. See Chameleon Lighting for more information.




Veiled Chameleons - Food & Nutrition

Feeding:
Veiled chameleons are more omnivorous than most chameleon species and many enjoy munching on plant leaves and fruit in addition to using their long sticky tongue to catch live insects. Great feeder insects include crickets, silkworms, hornworms, butterworms, dubia roaches and superworms. Waxworms and mealworms are high in fat content and harder to digest so should only be used on occasion. The rule of thumb is to not feed insects that are longer than the width of your chameleon's head.

Neonates: as many small crickets as they can eat several times a day
Juveniles 3-6 months of age: 10-12 small crickets daily
Juveniles 6-12 months of age: 10-12 medium crickets every other day
Adults over 12 months of age: 7-10 medium-large crickets every other day

Chameleons should be fed in the first half of the day to give them time to bask and digest their food properly. Crickets need to be properly gutloaded with calcium rich vegetables several hours before being fed to your chameleon. Inadequate dietary calcium leads to metabolic bone disease, a very serious illness. Commercially available gutloads usually aren't properly balanced or sufficient for good nutrition. See Chameleon Food for more information.

Supplementation:
Calcium and other vitamins are very important to your chameleon's health. Feeder insects should be lightly dusted with powdered supplement before being fed to your chameleon. Many keepers successfully use calcium (without D3 or phosphorus) at nearly every feeding, multivitamin once every 2 weeks, and calcium with D3 once every 2 weeks.

Hydration & Misting
The cage should be misted at least twice a day, drying out completely between misting sessions. This raises relative humidity as well as stimulates your chameleon to want to drink. Water can be provided by means of a dripper (not a waterfall or water bowl). The dripper should be placed on top of the cage so that the water droplets drip down and accumulate on plant leaves. Other watering options include manual and automated misting sytems. Chameleons do not recognize standing water as a drinking source. See Water & Humidity for more information.
 
Welcome to the forum! We're happy to have you and Reptar.

Definitely take a look at what Laurie posted, it's great info.
 
oo. a person in cali and someone willing to name a cham reptar. I approve..

Welcome to the forums where in cali you at?
 
not sure if this will reply to all of you guys but cool thanks for the care sheet :D ive been looking at quite a few of em online. im in fresno, california. thanks for all the welcomes
 
heres some pics of the terrariums im using, the smaller one is the one he is in now its about 20in wide 12in long and 16in high maybe? not sure exactly, but the bigger terrarium that isnt finished being set up yet is 24x24x30 plant is pothos, anything im doing wrong, should not do, should start doing? etc:)

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Is that terrarium all glass? All glass terrariums are dangerous for chams, they need lots of air flow so need at least two sides screen preferably all sides screen. I learned that from here this place is amazing 8D I would also add more things to climb on and more plants so he/she has more space to move on, chams prefer to not be on the ground.
 
As well as getting a screened cage, get rid of the substrate. Cham tongues are sticky and when going for food they may get some of it too, swallow it, and become impacted. This leads to death, or a heafty vet bill. Either go barebottom, paper towels, or astroturf instead..
 
yeah all glass, i read about how theyre bad and such for chams. due to reflections, air flow and stuff. and i asked around in quite a few of the fresno areas and they recommended a glass terrarium for chameleons in fresno due to the fact that it gets pretty hot in the summer around 110+ give or take, and people are likely to run AC's or not run them so it'd be too cold or too hot in the house and that the glass terrarium would help regulate that. it made sense to me...but what do you guys think? i cant really return the terrarium now...lol
 
:D As mentioned already. screen is best. Very important to have good air flow. Veiled's even more so. Maybe you can drill a couple vents in the bottom glass side? That would help with your airflo. If you still have the box you should be able to return it. Also please read through the care sheet Laura provided. If you are doing something that is different then ask. And yes, everything listed is needed for them. Especially Check out the supplements(kind and schedule) and feeders(and how to feed your feeders, gutload).
Good luck:D
 
Keep your glass tanks there perfect I'm fed up telling people glass terraniums are good for keeping chams.I don't know where people get notions that there not from the reflection thing is a myth.you will however need one that has good airflow so a,screen top and vents in the front also get rid of the substrate its not the best idea for chams its just an impacting hazard.and the big tank you have would probably be more suited to him now and is not big enough for an adult veiled also search glass terraniums and you'll see plenty of fine set UPS with happy healthy chams


heres a few examples https://www.chameleonforums.com/calling-glass-terranium-owners-100793/?highlight=glass+terraniums
 
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That glass tank is fine, that's a huge screen panel on the side. It is true that glass keeps temps and humidity more stable, you just have to keep a closer eye on it so the tank doesn't get too hot or too humid. But otherwise, most of our Canadian and European friends use glass terrariums without problem. It's the all glass aquariums that are a bad idea.

You just have to keep the water in check, as in not letting it puddle up on the bottom and getting gross.
 
haha im scared to drill holes in the bottom. fear i might not do it correctly. it was custom built by one of the local shop owners in fresno. but yeah i learned about the gut loading the day after i first fed him, so i gut load and sprinkle that calcium + d3, turn the UVB bulb on during the day and off at night. as for the terrarium not being big enough for when hes an adult i think its a good size for an adult chameleon no? i searched around a few places and said it would be fine. ima invest in a humidity and temp gauge, whats your guys word and opinion on humidifiers or the misters that they sell?
 
yea i didnt drill mine either.you need a special drill bit for glass.as for cage size this is the reccomendation
Cage Size:
In general when housing chameleons, bigger is better. Veiled chameleons are highly territorial and easily stressed by the presence of other chameleons, even of their own species. Two or more veiled chameleons should never be kept in the same cage. Cages should be furnished with many plants and climbing branches to provide opportunities for exercise and plenty of places for hiding. Substrate (mulch, soil, etc.) should not be used in chameleon cages. See Chameleon Enclosures for more information.


screen cage (length x width x height):

juveniles/sub-adults
: 16x16x30" (40x40x76cm)
adult female minimum: 18x18x36" (45x45x90cm)
adult male minimum: 24x24x48" (60x60x120cm)

and you say about the calcium with d3 this is best left to twice a month just use plain calcium without d3 everyday.a d3 overdose can be bad news.

if your looking for a mister aquazamp or mistking get nothing but good reviews here and i know nothing about humidifiers i would chance saying you wont need one with the glass viv but youll need a gauge to be sure

best of luck with your cham
 
sweet thanks, yeah the guy told me 2-3 times a week for the calcium + d3, so i should buy a supplement for only calcium? if i gut load them with carrots wont that give them calcium as well?
 
I think the big terrarium will be fine then with three glass sides and a screen front and top, I am using one of those right now for my baby panther. I thought it was all glass like the smaller one XD' sorry...

For gutloading I would also do some dry gutload, dandelion greens are also amazingly nutritious and I totally recommend them as the crickets and roaches I have love them. I find organically grown dandelion greens at my local health supermarket.
 
no worries >.< but is there anything else i can feed him besides micro crickets and flies at the moment?
 
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