I'm very worried...

Calypratus

Established Member
When I purchased my Veiled Chameleon (around one year ago) she was healthy, but I have noticed a large patch of stuck shed on her back and in between her eyes. It has been like this for months and I've tried bringing up the humidity, a warm shower, gently dipping her in a tub of water, and using some stuck shed stuff they were selling at my local petco. I'm in need of suggestions, I don't know how to make it go away!
 
I also forgot to mention she has refused to drink the water I give her. I've used both water dishes and misting her tank, and the only time I saw her drink she was sipping out of the bowl.
 
Some pics as well as filling out the how to ask for help form (link below) will allow people to better help you and your cham.

I can, however, give you a piece of general related info, that chams are dry shedders. Adding moisture will only make the shed stick. Water dishes are not a natural or recommended way to offer you cham water; really think filing out the form below will allow people to assist you and your cham.

https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/how-to-ask-for-help.66/
 
chameleons do not drink still water, its just something they don't naturally find. as stated above chams are dry shedders so bring the humidity down a notch and that should help. please fill out the form so we can find out why she isn't drinking while you mist. also its a good idea to have a dripper. running water is much more appealing to a chams eyes.
 
  • She is a veiled chameleon, I’ve had her for about and is female
  • I handle her only when needed
  • I feed her mainly crickets with super worms and hornworms as treats. I feed her 20 crickets every two-three days. I gutload them with flukes cricket diet, apples, mango, and carrots
  • I use repticalcium with d3 every other day and use herpevite with beta carotene once a week
  • I mist her cage three times every day, and I’m currently trying to set up a nice watering system
  • Fecal matter is normal brown but her urine is yellowish orange
  • She is currently gravid
  • I’m using a reptibreeze xl and a 5.0 watt reptisun bulb with a 50 watt basking bulb ( I don’t remember the brand)
  • At her basking spot it is 80-89 degrees and from at the bottom it gets into the low seventies
  • I keep her humidity between 50-70%
  • I’m currently trying to transition in a bio active vivarium but for the time being I have several vines and some fake plants
  • I have her cage close to a window on my dresser
  • I’m in chapel hill, NC
 
  • She is a veiled chameleon, I’ve had her for about and is female
  • I handle her only when needed
  • I feed her mainly crickets with super worms and hornworms as treats. I feed her 20 crickets every two-three days. I gutload them with flukes cricket diet, apples, mango, and carrots
  • I use repticalcium with d3 every other day and use herpevite with beta carotene once a week
  • I mist her cage three times every day, and I’m currently trying to set up a nice watering system
  • Fecal matter is normal brown but her urine is yellowish orange
  • She is currently gravid
  • I’m using a reptibreeze xl and a 5.0 watt reptisun bulb with a 50 watt basking bulb ( I don’t remember the brand)
  • At her basking spot it is 80-89 degrees and from at the bottom it gets into the low seventies
  • I keep her humidity between 50-70%
  • I’m currently trying to transition in a bio active vivarium but for the time being I have several vines and some fake plants
  • I have her cage close to a window on my dresser
  • I’m in chapel hill, NC

That supplement schedule is a big problem and going to make her sick if it hasn't already. You are giving her way too much D3 (like at least 6x too much), which chameleons can overdose on. You are also missing the most common and essential supplement. Way too much multivitamin, too.

(1) Calcium WITHOUT vitamin D3 for daily use
(2) Calcium WITH vitamin D3 for use only twice a month
(3) Multivitamin for use only twice a month

Stop using the fluker's diet for the gutload immediately, the stuff is useless. Carrots and apple are not good gutload items, either - at least not as the bulk of the gutload. They should only be used as extra bonuses to more nutritious options such as collard greens, turnip greens, and mustard greens
 
I had no idea about the fillets gutload issue. A couple years ago I took my leopard gecko to the vet because she wasn’t eating and she suggested gutload my them with carrots and stuff like that. She’s totally healthy now though.
 
Also thanks for your help. I’ll probably switch reptile vets because she was the one who recommends all that. Thanks a lot
 
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