Im worried about my cham

Andrew27

New Member
I am having trouble deciding what to do for my cham, so I need your guys help!

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - About 18 month old Jackson Chameleon. She is a female, and has been in my care for 6 months.

Handling - I almost never handle my chameleon.

Feeding - I feed her normally dubias and crickets. Well lately, I haven't been feeding her regular schedule ecause she hasn't been eating much. I try once every few days, and recently she hasn't been taking food. I normally feed her every other day as much as she can eat which is usually 3-5 insects. It used to be more when she was younger. I have gutloaded with King Kricket Feast by Chamalot Chameleons before (I still have some), but in the last month or so I haven't been gutloading so that is my fault. I want to get the gutloaded insects in her but she won't eat!

Supplements - I use regular, plain calcium by calstron once every other feeding about. I use Reptivite multivitamin with vitamin D3 about 1 time a month.

Watering - I see my chameleon drink every day. I have a "Big Dripper" by Zoo Med which I fill with tap water, and I use an Exo Terra Monsoon automatic misting system which I put distilled water in. She usually drinks from the dripper.

Fecal Description - I have never tested this chameleon for parasites. I am worried that my chameleon will get way too stressed by going to the vet and die, because she gets extremely stressed very easily. Her fecals are pretty hard and brown, the urates are white or a little yelowish which is healthy according to what other people said.

History - I know she was at a reliable pet store before I had her, The pet store is only local and I trust it as I have bought numerous reptilsfrom there before and had 0 problems with them. To be honest, I do not know where it was before that because I never asked.

Cage Info:
Cage Type - The cage is a Reptibreeze 18x18x36. It is completely screen.

Lighting - Lights are on from 7:30 A.M., until 9:30 P.M. My house is freezing, so I use two heat bulbs, a 100 watt and a 90 watt. I know this seems extreme, but my temps are normal. For UVB I use reptiglo by exo terra, a 5.0 and a 2.0 nce screen can filter out UVB.

Temperature - My basking spot is around 80-85 degrees. The middle is about 70-75, and the bottom stays in the high 60's. She usually stays near the top. At night, it says about 60-65 degrees. I use 2 Zoo Med digital thermometers and one regular analog thermometer.

Humidity - It stays about 70%. I use an analog hygrometer.

Plants - I use mostly fake plants from pet stores. I use one live pothos plant.

Placement - My chameleon is in my bedroom where it is very peaceful, just me walking in and out throughout day. It is away from windows and other reptiles and such. The top of the cage is 5 feet tall.

Location - Central Connecticut

Current Problem - My chameleon isn't eating much. I want to get some good gutload in her, but she won't get the gutload, or her calcium supplements unless she eats. This has been going on for a week or so. I tried cup feeding, hand feeding, tong feeding, free roam feeding, I just cant get her to eat. I do not count cricket for cricket, but the number of insects in the cage looks the same when I come back after feeding her. I need help!
 
Have you tried changing feeders? My Jacksons can get tired of the same feeder so I rotate feeders. You should try to give as wide a variety as possible. I try to keep at least 4-5 different bugs at all times. Try silk worms, horn worms, super worms, butter worms etc. I see you only list mainly crickets. I rotate crickets roaches and all worms listed above.
 
Try getting him out of his cage and handle him more. Than after 10 minutes try and feed him a small cricket. If he doesn't eat it just force feed him. Mine did this at first.
 
What I did today was I tried to get her to eat as much as possible. She only ate one cricket without my help. And she was just starting to look a tad underweight not by much though. So I took her out of the cage and assist fed her 5 crickets. All I had to do was get her to open her mouth. She did not spit any back out. I atleast got some vitamins in her. So now she is probably a little stressed, although she looked green last time I checked on her. Since she has some food in her I am not that worried about her for atleast another week. I ordered 40 hornworms and silkworms so they are in the mail. Is there any more advice people want to give? I am new to chams so any help is appreciated deeply. Note that I will probably never assist feed her again, because I kinda feel guilty after doing that. I think now she is just bored of the same old feeders and she will probably do better now that she has calcium and vitamins in her. It was my fault I didnt gutload. Does anyone know how nutritional silkies and hornworms are?
 
Well it looks like when he took him out of his cage he was able to feed him. So my advice was correct.
 
I thought it would work if you took her out of the cage. Hold a cricket in front of her and make sure its wiggling around and stuff for about a half minute. If she doesnt eat it herself you will have to force feed her or give it another minute. I had to do the exact same thing.
You should give her at least 5 crickets a day in my opinion. You also need the nutrient powder stuff. One has no d3, the other does, and the other one is a multivitamin. Just google it and you will see it. Dont worry about getting silk worms or horn worms just stick with mealworms, superworms, wax worms and crickets and you will be fine.
 
I actually had to put the food in her mouth. I dont think i wanna do it anymore though it doesnt feel natural. I have a question: does your Jackson eat fine now or do you have to force feed? How long and how did the process work out?
 
Yes, we actually had to force his mouth open and put the cricket in so he would swallow it. As long as she is swallowing the food it is ok if you need to force feed her. If you don't force feed her she will die, but she will eventually start to eat by herself.

I highly recommend feeding her outside of her cage at all times. Just take her out and get the food and wait till she is full then put her back in the cage. She will then know when you take her out she is getting food which means she will be more docile and calm when handling.

Our jackson eats fine now. A couple days ago we had to kind of force feed him but all we did was pretty much put the cricket up to his mouth then he would just open up and swallow it. Kind of like feeding a baby type thing. Everything will be fine, she will be eating within a week i would say.
 
dis your chameleon start to do the thing where they launch their tounge? Because my cham only did that once today. The tounge thing is mainly why I got my cham in the first place because I think that is really cool. Although now I am attached to her:) Thank you so much for the advice I appreciate it. I already have that calcium powder, vitamins, and D3 so I am all set I have owned my chameleon for over 6 months now
 
Maybe you can try liquid Calcium. Just add a drop liquid calcium into 1ml water using a syringe, then feed her with the syringe. I do that to my veil when he doesnt eat. I dont know if that will work for yours...
 
She could be bored with the lack of variety in her diet or there could be a health issue.
Have a look at all the feeders on this site
http://www.mulberryfarms.com/
Adding several of them--with the exception of mealworms--may stimulate her appetite and balance her diet. Waxworms are rather fatty, so they should not be a large part of her diet, if used.
These are especially good
http://www.mulberryfarms.com/PHOENIX-WORMS/Cup-of-Medium-Phoenix-Worms-100-Count-p45.html

I am wondering how far away from the 18x18x36 inch cage your 190watts of incandescent lighting are and how cold your house is.
It seems very likely that she is too hot.
Does she go to her basking area or does she tend to stay in the middle of the cage?

Unfamiliar with the calcium you're using I looked it up.
It contains strontium in addition to calcium.
I can't help but wonder if chams being particularly sensitive creatures can't handle the added strontium.
Different types of reptiles can tolerate different things and in the absence of chameleon specific studies, I'd be more inclined to trust plain calcium like this
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog...um-and-vitamins/-/rep-cal-calcium-without-d3/

Hygrometers are often very inaccurate, so you might want to take it outdoors and check how close it reads to a locally measured humidity reading.
Of course, parasites in chameleons are much more common than most people realize. They are another cause of diminished appetite.
All chams get extremely stressed by going to the vet and I have agonized over taking vs not taking them plenty of times.
If the vet is good at treating reptiles, it is worth the extra stress to get an accurate diagnosis and treatment.

I have to disagree with much that KOBE24 has advised. Force feeding is stressful to the animal and a cham in good health can go longer than a week without food without ill effects.
As for the feeders suggested, mealworms have been said to be too chitinous leading to intestinal blockage/impaction, waxworms are much higher in fat than in nutrients. Hornworms, silkworms and phoenix worms are all much better choices. Superworms while fatty are easier to digest than mealworms.
Here is a brief comparison of nutritional value of a few feeders
http://www.phoenixworm.com/servlet/the-template/comparison/Page
An article with a chart comparing some feeder nutrients is here
http://www.chameleonnews.com/02SepDonoghue.html
I do agree with him that there should be 3 supplements plain calcium every other feeding, calcium with d3 once a month and a multivitamin once a month. You might get away with 2x a month on either of the latter but it probably is safer to go with once.
 
Just order Phoenix worms for mine and I don't agree on the force feed but I don't want to give up on her not eating. I put my finger on the side with little pressure and she seen to know what's coming. She being with her eyes close lately.. this way she gets to eat. Hope she gets better.
 
Thank you very much. So what is it you recommend i do? She stays way up near the lights so she cant be hot. As for calcium I would switch it, but again, how can she get it in her? I had to assist feed her today so I got some D3, calcium and multivitamin in her. I have new insects on the way such as hornworms and silkies. I really dont know what else to do.
 
mine did not like hornworms but will eat the crickets when I force feed her. Giving phoenix worms a try should get the tomorrow. I'm in the same boat as you!!
 
Just order Phoenix worms for mine and I don't agree on the force feed but I don't want to give up on her not eating. I put my finger on the side with little pressure and she seen to know what's coming. She being with her eyes close lately.. this way she gets to eat. Hope she gets better.

Redline, there are different reasons for chams to not want to eat.
Sometimes it is boredom from lack of variety in the diet. Sometimes there is something not quite right in the care that needs to be changed.
If she is closing her eyes during the day, that is a serious symptom. It can be from improper lighting but very often its from an illness that requires medicine from a vet to cure.

You need to figure out the likely cause and either change whatever needs to be changed or get her to a vet while she is still strong enough to recover.
If you post a new thread and including cutting and pasting the questions form here https://www.chameleonforums.com/how-ask-help-66/
and adding your answers to all the questions, maybe someone will be able to point out something that needs to change or will recognize signs of illness and advise you to get to a good reptile experienced vet.
The more completely you answer them, the better the help people can give.

Thank you very much. So what is it you recommend i do? She stays way up near the lights so she cant be hot. As for calcium I would switch it, but again, how can she get it in her? I had to assist feed her today so I got some D3, calcium and multivitamin in her. I have new insects on the way such as hornworms and silkies. I really dont know what else to do.
If she's up at the top of her cage, then you're right, she probably is not too hot unless she is basking with her mouth open and is a paler color.
What to do?
You didn't mention any other things such as napping/sleeping during the day, breathing with her mouth open, gasping for air, lots of mucus in the mouth, falling, weak grip, lethargy, etc---some of the signs that very often indicate illness-- so she may just need variety in her diet.
Try the new feeders and see how she reacts.
If it is boredom with the food, she will be enthusiastic to see new kinds of feeders.

She does not need calcium at every feeding. Every other feeding is fine. The reason that calcium needs to be given at all is because the feeders that are available typically contain the wrong balance of calcium to phosphorus--so calcium dusting corrects that imbalance.
On a day each month that calcium with D3 or the day a multivitamin is used, it should be instead of the plain calcium.
Water is essential daily. Food is not.

I forgot to mention that the UVB bulb must be replaced every 6 months.
The bulbs still light up fine but they stop emitting enough UV somewhere around 6 months.
Without UV her body will literally take the calcium out of her bones and MBD is the serious result.
You dont want her to get MBD--here's what it is:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/wha...ase-mbd-looks-like-how-happens-how-fix-95071/

If the new feeders arrive and she isn't interested, then the best thing is to take her to a vet that has a good amount of experience with reptiles.
She could have an infection, another type of illness like MBD or parasites.
Check out the vets on ARAV and then the other links as shown here:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/area-area-country-vet-list-32880/
If you still need a vet recommendation maybe someone knows of a good one in your area.
Please keep us up to date on how she is doing.
 
Last edited:
Finally others chime in...,....please don't let one member influence someone's Cham care! I really don't agree with jumping in to force feeding without figuring out why she won't eat. It's a last resort technique.
 
Last edited:
:D You got some great advice from Lovereps. You may also want to include a type of fly, either house flies or blue bottle flies as one of you feeders. Usually a cham can not resist the flying and buzzing around.:)
 
Back
Top Bottom