Dexter Love
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Dawniegirl... you are so helpful! Thank you!
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Dawniegirl... you are so helpful! Thank you!
Gutloading is the process of working through the food chain to feed the prey animals the nutrition that your insectivore pet needs to replicate what they would eat in nature. Crickets are basically just water and chitin (not very nutritious or digestible) and the pet stores only feed them cardboard, or potato at most, so feeding crickets directly after you get them from the pet store or vendor is not providing much in the way of nutrition to your pet. Supplementing with a calcium and/or multivitamin powder is important, but not sufficient alone for proper nutrition in any species. Gut loading can't be done in all feeders but is very easy in crickets and super worms - two common feeder bugs.
How do you chose what to use? Gutloading ingredients should be chosen that are higher in calcium than phosphorus. High phosphorus levels in the food impedes calcium absorption. Inadequate dietary calcium leads to metabolic bone disease. Commercially available gutloads (such as Fluker Farms Cricket Food) are not balanced or sufficient for good nutrition in any species. Ideally there should be a wet and dry component to your gut load:
Good Wet Gutloading Ingredients: dandelion leaves, collard greens, mustard greens, turnip greens, escarole lettuce, butternut squash, carrots, mango, alfalfa sprouts, oranges, blueberries, raspberries, sweet potato, strawberries, hibiscus leaves and flowers, papaya
Good Dry Gutload Ingredients: bee pollen, alfalfa powder, kelp powder, brewer’s yeast, wheat germ, raw uncooked sunflower seeds, raw uncooked pumpkin seeds, hemp seeds, small amounts of whole grain cereals, spirulina algae, tortoise pellets
Foods to AVOID: Broccoli, spinach, beets, and parsley, have large amounts of oxalic acids which bind calcium absorption. Lettuces and cabbage do not have any significant nutritional value. Also, avoid things like dog food, cat food, and fish flakes which are high in animal proteins which can cause kidney damage. Feeding such things like pinky-mice, fuzzies, and feeder anoles that are extremely high in fat and protein content is harmful to your chameleon's health, bones and organs that can lead to serious illnesses like gout, edema, organ failure and fatality.
This site has nutritional info on many commonly available fruits and veggies to help guide you in choosing good gut loading ingredients: http://www.greenigsociety.org/foodchart.htm
Sandrachameleon has many more blog entries on gut loading and nutrition.
I purchase them from Petco and place them directly into his cage. I have not dusted the crickets with any supplementaion if that is what you are asking. Please forgive me for my ignorance... I am more than willing to learn and am grateful for your help in this matter!... as I just wish to get this lil guy on the road to recovery!
Anyone know of a good herp vet in Ventura County California?
He is VERY sick, MBD/Dehydration/many many probs here. You may be better off with out this guy. Start fresh get a healthy cham and enjoy the Benefits of a good healthy cham. He looks deathly!!
That's rather harsh.
He is VERY sick, MBD/Dehydration/many many probs here. You may be better off with out this guy. Start fresh get a healthy cham and enjoy the Benefits of a good healthy cham. He looks deathly!!
Besides, he looks like there's a good chance of him turning around with care and patience.
It sounds like your chameleon has Metabolic Bone Disease and is probably the reason it fell. Holding onto their own legs is a symptom of the disease. MBD is when there is insufficient calcium given in the diet, usually in combination with lack of UVB rays. Without UVB rays your chameleon cannot absorb any calcium that you do give it. Reptiles are particularly sensitive to their calcium needs and without enough in the diet they pull it out of their bones to compensate. This leads to weak bones, weakness (probably why he fell) and other problems.
You need a UVB bulb ASAP and in the meantime get him out into natural unfiltered (not through a window) sunlight as much a possible. You need to also be gutloading your crickets before feeding them to your chameleon because otherwise you offering him nearly no nutrition.
Water should also be given daily to jacksons chameleons. As a jacksons they don't need supplementation quite as often as some other species. However, yours is currently in a calcium deficient state so you need a calcium powder that does not have vitD or phosphorus in it and you need to be very lightly coating all of his crickets with it for the next few months.
Chameleons get sick slowly (this has been building up for a long time already) and they heal slowly so it's very important to make these changes ASAP. If he is at the point where he is laying on the ground and doesn't want to eat then he needs to go to a competent reptile vet even more ASAP. He needs fluids and a big dose of calcium. I would not suggest giving carnivore care as it has a lot of proteins and your cham is chronically dehydrated so it could damage the kidneys quickly. And he's not starving so it's not necessary at this point. It's important to find a vet who is good with reptiles when you're looking for a vet because regular dog and cat vets will not know how to help him best. Many chameleons bounce back from MBD, but you need to get him help quickly to give him a chance. Good luck and please ask more questions if you have them!
He is VERY sick, MBD/Dehydration/many many probs here. You may be better off with out this guy. Start fresh get a healthy cham and enjoy the Benefits of a good healthy cham. He looks deathly!!
from the pictures i see many obvious signs this cham is in worst shape then some are putting him off to be. also jacksons arent as resilient as veileds by any means (imo not even close). yes of course the will to live is amazing in most creatures but imo jacksons arent as forgiving. this is being realistic not optimistic.
any update?